Morning all,

I'm planning to tow a 14x7 enclosed trailer with 3 dirt bikes, tools and gear. Estimated total weight will be appx 3000 pounds. Trip will be from Central Tx to the mountains of Colorado and Utah. I know gas mileage will suck, but just curious how much of a struggle it will be once I get into the mountains/elevation. Trip will be app 2800 miles round trip.

Anyone have experience(s) they could share towing this type of load with their 4.6 Tundra? Curious about gas mileage as well(I know it won't be good as it sucks even when not towing). Also, I do have the tow package for what it's worth.

Or....should I just rent and save the wear and tear?

Thanks All!

Does that include the weight of the trailer?
Sounds to me like you're underestimating the load.

Yes, that includes the weight of the trailer. 2200 pounds for the trailer 800 for dirt bikes and gear. What would your weight estimate of a 14x7 trailer be?

Does the trailer have brakes and does the pickup have a controller for them? You've got ~300+HP, down would concern me a LOT more than up. Get some tongue weight when you load and hook up. You DO NOT want that bugger wiggling behind you headed down-hill.

Arriving safe and sound without soiling your trousers trumps any number some needle points to upon your speedometer.

As long as you load the trailer properly, IE weight forward and use your transmission on the downhill runs to help control your speed; you'll be fine. As mentioned above, trailer brakes would be a good idea, but 3000# isn't too heavy so if it doesn't just drive appropriately.

Not sure what you mean by rent. Avis, Hertz, Enterprise, etc. won't allow you to use their vehicles to tow.

Our 4.6 has plenty power to pull our 3000 appx pound camper. It cuts fuel mileage from 16 or so to well under 10 depending on how you drive it. if you want to drive speed limit up and down the hills in TX you might make 5-6 mpg.

It was used to tow a camper from VA to FL for a few years before we bought it. Snowbirding.

I had to replace one faulty shift sensor in the transmission after we bought it.

I have no clue about real mountains. But I suspect if you run it tow/haul and just take it easy and in no hurry it won't hurt a thing other than the fuel bill.

This is the point. The post about decrease in mpg when towing 3000k also gives a clue about effectiveness up/down mountains and maybe engine stress.

I tow a 3500# fishing boat with a 4.6 tundra and it does well and gets respectable fuel economy as well (13-14 mpg in the mountains). Your trailer will have a lot more wind resistance than my boat so it will be a bit tougher, but I certainly don’t see a problem with it.

Keep it in S4 and let the engine run the higher RPM where it makes its power and you will be fine.

See if this helps
Trailer weights by trailer type

small horse trailer sounds similar and would be 3,000lbs or more itself.


When I bought a camper the rule of thumb was to keep your towing weight down to 1,000 pounds less than its rated capacity.

Not knowing which particular model Tundra you have I looked up tow ratings for 4.6 Tundra and the minum listed was 6500 pounds. That should keep you within a safe margin.

You never said if you have a towing package with brakes or not. It makes all the difference.

I towed a heavy trailer with a pallet of wet grass 200+ miles with a simple bumper hitch, no trailer package or trailer brakes and don't wish that on anyone especially going to Colorado.

Just flat NO.

Not sure what an after market towing package might set you back but worth it even on a one time trip. I had one added eventually and was glad I did.

I was also glad the truck I owned was built with a transmission cooler.

Yes, trailer has a brake and I have a controller for it.

One way to find out, just do it.. If you have problems on the road, trade it in, and come home in a new 3/4 ton!

3 dirt bikes, tools and gear only weigh 800?? Gas cans for bikes?

I'm on my third Tundra - a 2005 4.7L, 2013 4.6L, and a 2020 5.7L (all double cabs). Have towed with all of them to different extents - but not in the western mountain states. So for what it's worth:

Make sure you have working trailer brakes and a decent brake controller wired up. Your weight estimates sound a little low for the trailer and cargo mentioned. Is the trailer double axle? (Seems like a 14ft trailer should be). Anyway, with working trailer brakes and properly loaded your Tundra should be good at least double the weight you've estimated - but you'll notice the grades.

I did a fair amount of towing similar to the loads you're looking at with my 2013 4.6L. Helped my sister with a few loads of stuff when she moved about 6 yrs ago and moved myself 3 yrs ago from central VA to northern NY. Used a single axle 6x10 v-nose enclosed cargo trailer with a max rated weight of 3500 lbs - and had it loaded to that or a little more on some of the trips. I put electric brakes on the trailer and really appreciated them when trailer was loaded heavy, and especially on some of the trips made during winter. (remember to adjust electric brake gain setting to match actual final weight of loaded trailer!!)

Ok - performance. My truck accelerated and handled pretty good with the 3000-3500 lbs of trailer. You can pretty much forget about overdrive (unless going downhill!) My truck spent most of it's time in 4th or 5th gear in moderate rolling terrain. Keeping speed to 65 or below helped to keep it in at least 5th. The transmission was pretty good with gear selection - didn't search between gears much (my 2005 Tundra was a little annoying with that). Definitely remember to switch to the "Tow/haul" mode every time you start the truck - it resets transmission shift points for better pulling and improves engine braking. I'd guess that on a few of the grades you'll hit in NM and CO and up you'll be looking at climbing in 3rd or 4th in the 40-55 mph range. If you're used to driving TX at 70-75mph you should plan on moving a little slower

Gas mileage will suck even on flat roads - largely from the wind resistance of the enclosed trailer. My 18-20 mpg unloaded highway mileage dropped to 10-12 mpg with the trailer.

If you have the towing package on your Tundra does that include the dual temperature gauges - one for coolant, one for transmission? Nice feature - keep an eye on both when climbing the long uphills. Your towing package should also include a transmission cooler so another plus. If you don't have a brake controller already it's an easy hookup - the Tundra tow package is pre-wired. There should be a plug connection inside the kick panel down by driver's left foot and you can buy controllers pre-wired with the proper connector.


My newer 2020 with the 5.7L is a different animal - I've towed up to 9000lbs with that so far with no issues - but not in the Rocky Mtns!

ha ha - and a new rifle.....but I think should be evident.

Would rent a 3/4 ton through Enterprise Truck Rental. They allow towing.

Great info Mike. Exactly what I was looking for.

Just make sure you are down shifting coming down the hill. The mountains can toast a set of rotors in a few minutes if you don't know how to down shift properly and just ride the brakes. Google is your friend and very useful information on how to downshift. Every year going hunting there are always out of staters with their brakes burning up. It never fails. You always smell them before you see them!

half ton trucks are not made to pull anything period. That said its what the wife bought while I was at work and she didn't want to drive a 1 ton herself.

If it were up to me it would have been a 1 ton something. To pull anything.

So far for 5 years now she has pulled the 3500ish pound or maybe its 3000..appx 18 foot single wheel travel trailer with dirt bike on the back bumper and gear 2 weekends of every month from March through October.

Its lasting better than any half ton GM product I ever had.

I thought he was way under too. My bike, gear bag and tool box are easily over 300 lbs. Extras box, gas cans, camping gear, trailer spare and who knows what else. He probably won't have any real trouble, just needs to stay within the truck limits.

My 2010 tundra pulls the 26ft 4300lb travel trailer with no problems up and down the Ozarks @10mpg. You shouldn't have any issues with a 3000lb trailer.

Ensure the braking system is working. Put it in tow mode ase the manual shift if equipped.

Good luck and safe travels.

My 2006 Tundra with the 4.6 tows my 4400 lb trailer over Mt Hood without much trouble but not at the speed limit. I don't think your rout will be any steeper.

That's a heavy trailer! Hauling a D4?

One too many 0's methinks.

My 2000 Tundra 4.7l 4x4 tows 5,000 lb without a problem, but haven't tried that in the mountains.

Pulled three similar loads from Phoenix to St. George with my previous 4.7 Tundra. Steep mountain roads. Plenty of power. Just be reasonable downhill as with any heavy load. Good luck!

Isn’t it a 4.7L?

I tow my 20’ boat all the time with mine. I’m in the weight range your trailer is in I believe. It does fine. I’d recommend turning overdrive off when towing in the hills; the tranny will run cooler. On that note I do have the towing package on mine which includes a tranny cooler. Mine is an ’06 and I think they did upgrade the brakes towards the end of the first-Gen run. The brakes are not awesome for towing. I expect your trailer has surge brakes? You’ll want them to be working ok.

But,but, but, I keep hearing how Tundras aren't rated as 3/4 ton but they are
built like one!


3000# ain't crap. Trailer brakes are darn nice but not nessary.
Having them doesn't offset having a brain.
Watch temps if it is hot, an auxiliary tyranny cooler is never a bad idea on a tow
vehicle. Probably not necessary on a Toyota. They never break down.

As previously mentioned, and according to my transmission guy, keep it in tow/haul mode - if you like your transmission.

Once in a while might be ok. A trim carpenter around here wore out one in no time. His Ram diesel is still going years later but ate a transmission or two as well.

If your weight is accurate you'll be fine. I pulled a 5500 boat all over the damn place with one for a few years. Gas mileage and power were lacking but it's a 4.6l. The truck handled it fine.

You can pull 3000 pounds with a minivan without a problem.

Oops!

2010 was the year Toyota replaced the 4.7l, 271hp max towing of 6500 pounds with the 4.6-liter, 310hp, tow up to a healthy 9,000 pounds.

Classic campfire.

OP asks about a 4.6. Now we are on pre-2010 4.6’s (which never existed in a tundra), and 4.7’s (different engine than a 4.6) both 1st and second gen tundras (which are totally different sized vehicles). To further clarify the OPs question can we get some feedback on the T100 please, either size V6 would add more colorful info to the discussion……

Your transmission is going to hate you.
If the truck has the tow package it has the trans cooler—which is a great thing.

Plan on 35mph with your foot down and in 2nd or 3rd gear on the steeper part of the passes.

Good trailer brakes and controller are a necessity. Don’t let the occasional towing flat lander tell you any different. Pull the wheels off the trailer and check the brakes. Keep it in the lower gears on the downhill side.

10k ft altitude means ~10-15% less hp compared to sea level for a normally aspirated engine. Thinner air means lower density and reduces cooling effect significantly. Vehicles that operate just fine in 110 degree Texas weather overheat at 80 degrees at 8k ft in altitude while climbing the pass. Often.

Lol……

How's this for classic Campfire?

Never owned a Toyota.

You'll be fine. Run it.

Agree about the brakes. Mine were FUBAR from salt on my trailer when I bought the boat, and I used it that way for a while, then completely rebuilt the hubs/brakes with stainless Kodiak parts, so I’ve experienced it both ways. Brakes= better.

My first-Gen with the 4.7 has no issue holding 60 mph, granted at lower altitudes, with steep sections of the Coast Range; did it just the other day because we finally got a calm patch in the ocean and it was time to slay some lings. If the OP is talking about a first Gen truck, which I had ass-u-med because most of the later ones have the 5.7L around here at least, brakes are the main weak point for towing. And yes, use the “OD off” button. In overdrive the tranny will be using the torque converter up the wazoo which equals heat. Heat bad. The 4.7L loves to rev anyway. Just drinks gas when it does.

Tundras are beloved in the PNW. A lot of guys tow way heavier than 3k with them routinely. Especially the later models. The 4.7 and 5.7 drivetrains are proven excellent.

Now how the new hot-rod small displacement V6 holds up is still TBD.

OK, one more time:

I've had both the 4.7L and the 4.6L. THEY ARE TWO DIFFERENT ENGINES AND HAVE DIFFERENT TRANSMISSIONS. The 4.6/6 speed replaced the 4.7/5speed in 2009 (2010 model year) and was available until I believe the 2019 model year.

Towed with both, both will handle well over 3000lbs, but that much weight will wear out your truck brakes fast if you don't have trailer brakes.

IMO - the newer 4.6L with 6speed transmission is the better tow vehicle. The older 4.7/5 speed did have an overdrive lockout that helped, but it tended to "search" between gears more than I liked. The 6 speed has a Tow/Haul setting that actually changes shift points, holds it in lower gears longer before shifting to improve performance, and improves engine braking.

Does nobody just slow down, run in 4th or 5th and keep the tach at about 2000-2250 for pulling with a gas motor?

Minimal if any shifting then.

Do the manual shift thing and keep the transmission in a gear that gets you to that 2k mark at highway speeds.

Of course I am speaking about a 5 or 6 speed here. No experience myself with the newer 8+ speed transmissions.

Gotcha. 👍

I’ll just say this to the OP and let it go. My 4.7L/ 5 speed does fine with my boat, which is very comparable to your 3k lb trailer. From all I hear (including the official tow rating) the more recent Tundras are better tow rigs than the first-gen. So I think it’ll be fine. I do also think it’d be worth investing in a tranny cooler.

Small correction. The latest 4.6 models don’t have the tow/haul ass button. They just have the “S mode” where you can select the highest gear the transmission will use. So you can effectively lock out the 5th and 6th overdrive gears. It also turns off the “artificial intelligence-shift” control and the transmission operates like a traditional auto trans - which works fine for towing. Just keep it in S4 unless it downshifts to 3rd, in which case I bump down the gear selector to hold it in 3rd (so the transmission doesn’t try and shift back and forth between 3 and 4) until I crest the hill then pop it back into 4th.

use to tow low boy with a track hoe or said loader with my 2004 tundra, never long haul but live in the mountains, never had a problem

Reminds me of an old thread.


""Can I tow a big 5th wheel RV with a 6 point

something pickup?"


And the responses claiming a diesel as absolutely necessary.

Bull
And
Schidt

That 6. something produces more snot than the original Super Duty.
If you think Super Duty means a "big" pickup, Google it.

Those engines were dragging 73,280# up and down our highways everyday for
years. And we're among the Big Dawgs of their time.

Yeah, I'm certain a 6. something can drag a measly 14ķ# trailer.

What 6 something gas was used in what truck pulling over 70k?

Not trying to start a pizzing match, just curious?

No 6. Something. It was someone's modern 6 liter the question was about.



Google.
And I was slightly wrong, but will stand by my comparison.

The Ford Super Duty 534. Was the engine I referred to.
266hp/490ftlbs.




Fords 6.2
385hp/430ft lb



Giving up 60ft lbs of torque is no big deal considering the pickup/trailer combo
weighs less than 1/3 of the old semi.