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Today removed the tank and replaced all internals as well as seals and bolts to the bowl. When snugging tank back to to bowl, heard a disturbing "crack" sound.

All elements are working well after the rebuild, but there is a very slow leak coming from area of tank/bowl junction. Checked all other fittings - no leaks there and it appears to not be at the seal between tank and bowl - but dripping from bottom end of both threaded connecting bolts.

I'm going to take it apart again this evening and expect to find small cracks at and adjoining the bolt holes at bottom of tank - where the rubber washers normally seal. If that is the problem, has anyone been able to dry/clean/abrade and then use a proper epoxy cement to fix such cracks and stop the leaking?

Or, am I going to go buy a new toilet? Thanks for any help.
The first time someone sits back against the tank with any weight I think you will be sorry. Call Ferguson or look online to see if you can order just the tank.

Osky
New toilet
You damn dumb azz
Use big stainless steel washers (fender washers) inside the tank, and fill the hole with RTV silicone rubber before putting the same kind of washer on the bottom. If that doesn't work, buy a new tank.
Originally Posted by Poconojack
New toilet
This ^
You may be able to buy a tank, more than likely you will have to buy a new toilet
Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Use big stainless steel washers (fender washers) inside the tank, and fill the hole with RTV silicone rubber before putting the same kind of washer on the bottom. If that doesn't work, buy a new tank.
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Thanks, Osky. I usually place a good shim back there between tank and wall - in case some big folks visit - but I don't want to leave this open to failure.

So, got back on it and just removed the tank. With a bright light and with it turned every which way I cannot find even a hairline crack in the bottom of the tank, including area surrounding bolts.

I am going to cinch up those bolts/washers against the bottom of the tank, put some water in it, and let it sit overnight - will observe in the AM.

Could be that the washers just were not sealing against the slightly rough tank surface, or maybe I simply did not cinch them tight enough. But, have been warned about cracking of the pottery due to too much torque on it.

Also, how "tight" do you all make that big nut that squashes the seal between tank and bowl. Need to get this right - much better things to do.

Thanks again for any helpful thoughts.
You have to tighten enough to crush the tank/bowel washer.

I tighten a little, rock the tank, tighten.
If there is any movement between the tank and bowl, It's not tight enough.

Once the movement stops?
You are pretty much done. It won't take much more to break something.
With the tank sitting on blocks and the inner washers snugged up tight by the outside nut, so far there is zero leakage.

Looks like this particular kit/arrangement will allow me to do that (and add an outside washer if I wish) and then have enough bolt thread remaining to use fender washers and big wing nuts to tighten the tank against the bowl. Will report outcome tomorrow.

Thanks for all the helpful replies (well, that one dude seems to have a problem) - much appreciated - lots of fine folks on the 'Fire.
I hate silicone.

If it needs a sealant, it gets 3M 5200.
I would have said Marine Tex. That will water proof it.

But really, it sounds like a good time to go down to the big box store and buy the tallest toilet they have on display. None of us are getting any younger.
Somehow this reminds me of a time years ago when many cities were experienced severe water shortages. People were coming up with all kinds of ways to save water. One was to put a brick in the toilet tank to reduce water usage but still allow the toilet to flush properly.

Paul Harvey talked about this on one of his shows. He said 'Remember, the toilet bowl is not the tank'.
Originally Posted by ironbender
I hate silicone.

If it needs a sealant, it gets 3M 5200.


If you can wait a week
There is a fast cure. Might be a differenter number.
I patched one once with JB weld when money was tight. It lasted a few years.
A cracked toilet flooded my house with a slow leak while we were out of town. $70,000 remodel!
Originally Posted by Stammster
A cracked toilet flooded my house with a slow leak while we were out of town. $70,000 remodel!

^^THIS^^


The best of fixes will fail when you least expect it.

If it's actually cracked, temperature fluctuation alone could cause it to advance, much like a cracked windshield on a car.

Just replace it, in the long run it may be the cheapest thing you could have ever done.
while you have the toilet out - I had to remove one a few weeks ago. Instead of a wax ring, I used one of there new rubber rings. It's a lot less messy and very easy to use. If someone has some negative experience, please say so.

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I use the rubber rings anytime I have to replace a toilet.
Have good luck with them.
Patching a toilet? What could possibly go wrong?
Super Glue worked fine on my coffee cup, why not a toilet tank? laugh
After that full exam with magnifying glass and bright light revealed no cracks in the bottom of the tank, installed bolts/washers/nuts, sat it on blocks, filled it with water and let stand all night. Not a drip came out. Will now install on the bowl with new seal/cushion and secondary washers/nuts, then carefully check for leaks before finishing it up.

Thanks for the many responses. We don't do things on the cheap here, and that noted "cracking" sound was taken as a warning - thus this thread/inquiry. With no apparent cracking and no leaks occurring, will probably give it a longer run - with vigilance.

Thanks again.
I just replaced both toilets for $109.00 a piece from Lowe’s.
Not the OP's problem , but I once dropped a tank and broke it - not cracked it, broke it in two. It wasn't the only thing broke, so I put it back together with shoe goo, and my wife put a cloth decorative cover over it.

About 15 years later when we were "richer" and doing some remodeling, I put in a new toilet. Never had a problem with the repaired tank.

I've used shoegoo or E6000 on snow machine wind screens and body work with good results also. Good... maybe not so pretty.... smile

A product called Lexan is pretty good also - I like it better than 100% silicon for many things.
For all the damage that a water can do to a floor replace the stupid toilet
Good policy, ATV....peace of mind, and all...just don't let the wife in on it. I once sent mine into town for a 49 cent washer kit to fix a dripping kitchen faucet. She came home with $150 new faucet set- found on sale while she was looking for the $300 one. Sitka Deer's wife wanted to know what my problem was, having, "broken even". smile

About 20 years later, now that one is dripping.

I'll do it......
Originally Posted by atvalaska
For all the damage that a water can do to a floor replace the stupid toilet
+++ to that
NO.
But ...I do love me some e6000 and shoegoo
I hate freaking plumbing, but I do it as it saves bucks. I would not try to repair porcelain tanks, just as many said , do a new toilet if it is in fact cracked. I did do a hasty repair in the barn this winter as the boiler was down ( I did not know about it ) so the in floor heat was not on and two water pipes cracked at an elbow. I did an aggressive sand and wrapped e-glass and resin and then wrapped it in peel ply. Worked like a champ!
Originally Posted by ironbender
There is a fast cure. Might be a differenter number.


I'm not aware of fast cure 5200 but there is fat cure 4000.
Originally Posted by dennisinaz
Originally Posted by ironbender
There is a fast cure. Might be a differenter number.


I'm not aware of fast cure 5200 but there is fat cure 4000.
There is a fast set 5200. I use it quite a bit.
Buy a new toilet and sit the old one in your front yard until your neighbors complain about it being an eye sore
Originally Posted by ironbender
I hate silicone.

If it needs a sealant, it gets 3M 5200.
Just don’t use 5200 anywhere where you want to be able to take it apart. That said one of my toilets tank is repaired with superglue and 5200. It has held for three years so far. I dried and cleaned the crack with compressed air and then a hairdryer. Followed that with a little acetone to be sure everything was clean. Used superglue pushed by compressed air to glue the crack. Then I covered the crack area inside the tank with 5200. The 5200 was spread over the crack area over an inch in all directions. About 1/8th inch thick.
Originally Posted by Jericho
Buy a new toilet and sit the old one in your front yard until your neighbors complain about it being an eye sore

Fill it with dirt. A cascading spray of geraniums look nice.
Fix it then raise your insurance coverage
Appreciating those trying to help among the varied responses.

Some funny, some educative (learned stuff about adhesives and toilets), and some Campfire assorted, including gloomy outlook. All good.

Forgot to say that the toilet is located in an outhouse.
Originally Posted by CCCC
Forgot to say that the toilet is located in an outhouse.


Well, [bleep]!
When I repaired mine I had just gone through a divorce and was trying to survive it without losing my house. I didn't have 70 extra dollars for a new one. I barely had enough to buy taters and white bread to eat with my deer meat and fish that I lived on for a year. I could write a check for some new houses now. Because I attacked my debt and lived frugally after the divorce.
Originally Posted by alwaysoutdoors
You damn dumb azz


How's that constructive?
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