We just got a wood stove and I'm going to need to get a bunch of firewood this summer.

What brand of chainsaws do I need to be looking at and avoiding? How big of a saw do I need? I'd rather pay a little more than save some money and get one that is too small but I also don't want to waste money and get one that is overkill. Most of my firewood is going to be fir, spruce, and maybe some cottonwood.

Also, I'm a bit removed from any big cities, but I know there is a Stihl and husky dealer within 80 miles if that makes a difference.

Thanks.

All I know about is my Stihl 026. Bought it new years ago and has served me well. Spend the money necessary for a quality tool like a Stihl or Husky and you'll be pleased.

Husqvarna. Mine does good for me.

Stihl's are also excellent.

Stihl or Husky and err to side of more saw than you think you need. If you go too small you'll wind up buying a bigger saw when the little one won't cut it.

The two brands mentioned are the ones I would recommend

+1 on the 026 Stihl. Picked up a used one for a friend who's never run a saw before. He's doing good and it's the only saw he'll ever need.
To be honest,any name brand of the right size will do you good. Just MAINTAIN it.

Stihl

My wife happens to be in Riverton and just stopped at the husky stihl dealer I mentioned. She said their first recommendation was the husky 455 rancher. It was $400.

I have Husky's; they are excellent.

I'd not go bigger than a 24" bar if I were you. That's a lot of saw. I also cut for two stoves (it's all the heat we have) and did fine with a 20" bar for 15 years. But I do like my 24" saw.

I also have a Stihl 041, bought a long time ago.
Runs great, 12 chains 4 bars and new fuel lines once.
Charlie

The Stihl 026 or now I think it is called the Pro 260 with a 16" bar and chain will serve your needs.
Get a Professional duty saw if you can afford it, cost is more but will last a lifetime if maintained.
Buy from a local shop not Lowe's or Home Depot. If you need service, and you will, good luck with the "big Box" store.
Unless you can sharpen your chain I would opt for a 2nd cahin.
Use Stihl oil for mixing the gas and a good bar oil for the chain.

Coach

About 18 years ago I knew nothing about chain saws and needed one, so I asked a guy who worked in the timber. He told me I could buy any brand I wanted, as long as it was a Stihl. Saw runs and runs and runs, still going, will likely outlast me. I carry 4 chains, I get is serviced at the Stihl dealer in Riverton. There is something to be said for getting one size larger than you think you need, go pick 'em up and walk around with 'em for a little while. +1 for what Old Coach said.

You in Dubois?

Stihl or Husky will do you fine.

You have to match bar length with CC's. When someone says they have a 24" saw, it's meaningless, and an indication of a kook.

For general firewood cutting, a 20" bar will do well, and can tackle a lot of wood. Look for a 60 CC class saw like a Stihl 362 or Husky 357xp. These saws are pretty light, and will cut all day for years if treated right. Just what you want for cutting firewood. They aren't cheep, but are made to last.

Get a professional chain on them, and learn to sharpen them and keep them sharp. Use good two stroke mix, and bar oil, and learn to maintain it.

I love cutting firewood..

Best BumbleBee firewood saw going is the Stihl 036.

036 not sold new anymore, but a fine saw nonetheless. The 361 replaced it, I had one and loved it for limbing and bucking. The 362 is the new Stihl pro 60 cc class saw.

I've been using a Husq 455 Rancher for two seasons now, since we put in a woodstove. Seems about perfect for our needs. Paid $399 at Lowe's. Later saw the same saw at Costco for $349. We've burned about 5-6 cords per heating season.

I have a small Poulan with 16" blade. It has served me well but I'm not the expert constant user that some of the other guys responding are. So for brand names they are a better source of experience.

But I can tell you this with confidence. Try to avoid cutting trenches in the dirt 'cause that will dull the chain quicker than anything else, then make sure that you figure out how to sharpen the chain yourself.

KC

A Stihl 032 with 16" bar put me through college. I cut pulpwood to pay the bills. Engine displacement was 3.11 cu in.

Currently I have a 041 Farm Boss with 3.72 cu in displacement and a MS 391 (sweet) with 3.91 cu in displacement. Both have 16 and 20" bars. I run 4 chains per sprocket and do not skimp on bar oil...give it all you got.

I cut oak, hickory, black locust and green ash for a wood stove, cook stove and fireplace.

Been running Stihl's since 1979 and never had to test their warranty.

The end result you are looking for...

I cut a lot of wood too. I have two saws, an 044 stihl with a 20 inch bar and a 2159 jonsered with an 18 inch bar. The stihl is pretty powerful and I use it on bigger stuff. Since I bought the jonsered I find myself using it more. It's not as powerful as the stihl but it will sufice for about 75% of my cutting. I paid $494 for it last summer at a jonsered dealer. I bought my stihl in '96. I've made money with it. Whatever brand you buy maintain it well and it will last for years.

Stihl. The small Husky's are just cheapo chicom crap in orange plastic. Found that out the hard way! Spend a little more and get the largest you can physically handle, drain the fuel out and run the lines dry after every use and use a quality fuel stabilizer and you should have years of trouble free use.

Chisel tooth chains!!

Stihl

God yer a prick.

The factory does ok matching CC's to bar length. A guy can say get a 24" Husky and not be a kook.

I'll add a second vote for the 044 Stihl or the equivalent in size Husky. When I was chasing landing that's about the smallest I used. After I went to cutting timber I pretty much got spoiled with the longer bars and big saws and I don't like to spend all that time bent over cutting so I'd recommend a 28" bar, we ran 3/8 pitch full skip chain on everything. Make whatever saw you get has good dogs on it(not sure of the actual name, but that's what we called them) They help a bunch when it comes to bucking, they'll bite into the bark and give you some leverage. Personally I prefer the balance of a Husky,but either of the 2 make a good saw.

That's a little overkill for cutting firewood.

Really? I do know they're making them down in Brazil. I used the hell out of a Brazil made 61 down in Mexico, and I sure wish I could bring it back. That saw rocked!

Stihl. Swede made Huskies. Shindaiwa. Yup the japanes make a mean chainsaw. I have one of the pro models.

That 455 Husky with a 20" bar is an excellent saw for firewood cutting. As mentioned by Rancho, two or three extra chains and knowing how to sharpen them is a big plus. Keeping a sharp chain on will lead to your saw lasting a lot longer. My Husky starts on the third or fourth pull every time, even at 20 below.

I know, but when the smallest saw I've ever personally owned was a Husky 288 with a 32" bar and I chased for a couple of years with one of those a 044 seems like a lightweight. My falling saws were 394 Huskies with 34 or 36" so I think you know where I'm coming from. Besides who wants to wait around for the saw to get through the wood? I like something I can lean on without it bogging.

Rancho,
My post is directed to the original poster although I replied to you. I am sure that my chain saw observations are things you have ran into before from the sound of your replies.
The 026 is a pretty easy saw to handle. It balances nice and is not to heavy and not too light. Has good power for a guy that is cutting his own firewood.
There is an 044 in the building that used to get a lot of use. As time took it's toll the 026 took over cause that 044 will stomp a mud hole in a guy (at least me) pretty quick and unless a guy is cutting good sized butt logs (which I try and stay away from) the 026 will do.
Some of the guys that ranch and farm have a need for a bigger more powerful saw but for cutting wood IMO that 026 is a good one.
I would buy from a locally owned store with a good reputation and service department. Any issues and it is way easier to deal with a local store/shop than a big store. Pay a little extra if need be and your saw will like it better too.

Dave

My dad bought a Husky Rancher(455?) about 10 years ago. I used it alot when I sold firewood, think it has a 20" bar and it will easily cut down tree's bigger than you can reach both arms around.
Great saw we've had to replace a couple things that wore out but zero engine problems. As a matter of fact I fired it up this morning and whacked down a few dead branches around the house.

Pops just said he'd sell you an old David Bradley saw. Might be a little heavy though......(grin)

I used the exact same set up for cutting heavy brush, it was also nice to limb - kept me from bending over.

My favorite firewood saw was a 281 with a 20" bar. That thing screamed through cords of wood.

well not reading all the post if you have a dolmar dealer nearby the 5100 would be the saw.of the 2 you mentioned i lean more toward husky any more then stihl unless you buy an older saw like the 041 farm boss.Which has served me many years.


As far as bar length i suggest 18 inch or 20 as a cutting saw and a 16" for a bucking saw

The bending over waiting on a slow saw is one thing I hated. I don't like the way a short bar will kick back on a guy either. I'm 6'2" so that might help explain why I'm partial to the longer bars although I gotta admit after I got out of the woods and a few years later went back and cut some wood for my Mom and Dad that a 394 feels a little heavier then it used to.

44 or 440 stihl, does its job damn easy, and you dont have to work your butt off to cut a couple ricks of wood,

All the reason I'd need to steer WAY clear of a Husky, as if I needed another reason.

IMHO the 290 Stihl is minimum for making firewood, and is what I've been running for years now.





All my buddies here run 044's. An 044 or 440 is no way overkill. Why piss around spending more time with a smaller saw if you don't have to. Real firewood generally isn't made out of saplings around here, the 440 makes a lot of wood fast. I'm not far from getting my own 440 and passing this 390 down to my son.





Yup, and skip tooth........

I have a Stihl Farm Boss that has 6 or 7 years of 8 cords a year large dried hardwood (oak) firewood, a few clean-up actions after storms, and some project tree drops. Runs great, weight is fine, and cuts just fine. My buddy has the new model, works just as well.

Find a shop that some has recommendations from others. Only problem I had with the Stihl was having it maintained in a Stihl shop that did so/so work.

With a 28" bar, I'm calling overkill for just firewood. Put a 20" bar on that 044 and it'll rip some [bleep] up fast. That would be an awesome firewood rig. It will still be a little heavy compared to a 362 or 357xp...

True that. I have a Husky I've had pretty good luck with, but when a fry-brained fop like JO says that, it makes me question myself.

I'm running a 390 as I said, and with a 20" bar.

I'm 6'4" X 44 years old and my lower back would be be very appreciative of a 28" bar, despite the over kill.......

Per saw weight:

I personally like a little heavier saw, combined with enough cc's, and a sharp chisel chain....all I hafta do is hold on for the ride.

Rollin', here........

Stihl, Husky, or Jonsered. The last 2 are easier to work on as
they lay flatter on all sides. It makes it easier to work on any side of the saw. Off-season, drain the gas tank, crank it, and let it run dry. This will extend the life of all seals, jets, and diaphragms. I always use fresh gas or gas that has been treated.

Tip: A sharpened saw with properly filed drags will cut twice the wood with half the work. Otherwise, you'll cut half the wood with three times the work and twice the risk of injury.

If you are considering a 455 Rancher, do yourself a favor and compare it to its better sibling, a Husqvarna 359.

Song about a "Logging Dad",

"one day workin' in the old growth, on nearly verticle ground,

we'd fire them up in the timber,

they'd come sliding right back down,

I was busy changing my chain, He picked up his old Stihl,

Says "She's not layin' right, this looks like a fight,

I'll have to cripple her up just so,

Well Dad was a cuttin' and chips were a flyin, than he got into a wreck,

His bar was jammed and the cripple shifted, the whole thing started to roll,

He was OK, everything was alright, 'til a stump got in the way,

.....That piece of precision West German engineering turned into an Orange spray,

I held my breath, almost laughed to death, than I just had to say,

"It doesn't really matter if now and than they splatter, there's a LOT more where they come from"

All due apologies for Mutilating / misquoting a fine logging song by "Craig and Terry".

Song's called "One More Mick"

GTC

I run a NOBLE, POWERFUL and VERY old Jonsered.

....but than, I know WTF I'm doing.

Traded my way into it, and acoutrements, long ago, North of the Medicine line.

I'm still amazed at what a well run S&W Model 57 would trade for, in the Canadian Bush......back than.

GTC

I use a smaller Stihl with the top handle and a 14" bar as well as an Echo with same. They both give good service. When training a teenager, do yourself a favor and buy a couple of Poulans for him to ruin. The smaller Stihl and Echo are the saws that I take up the tree with me. They hang from my tree saddle (only one at a time), and I use them for topping and limbing as I rappel. When you are hanging from a good piece of rope, it's easy to walk out on a limb to trim, because if you have a mis-step, you'll only fall back to the main trunk. Both lmbng saws are adjusted so that if my finger goes off of the trigger, they automatically shut down. This minimizes the chance that a spinning chain might cut my rappeling rope or my pigs tail or tie off in half (Not to mention my jewels. ) I wear all safety gear;helmet with face shield, chaps, etc. I use ascenders and descenders when clients don't want spike cuts in their trees, but usually, I use time-tested knots to tie off. I use a rope ratchet for my tie off strap, as it allows quick adjustments as the tree gets bigger when I am coming down. I have been know to trim unreachable limbs with a 22 rifle (Anshutz with a leupold scope) and this has even gotten me nice cash tips from some city folks.

My equipment also gets me a lot of roof repair work on steeper roofs as I can get a job done in half a day when the competition would spend a day setting up scaffolding and toe boards, etc.

I don't work much. I don't want too. All I have is paid for, and I have mucho savings in tangibles. I like hunting, fishing, scouting, and camping a lot more than work anyway. I build rifles for fun, and shoot plenty. I built my own range in the mountains, but can only shoot out to 500 yds. I only work for people that I have come to like and trust, and I do what I please the rest of the time. Life is good. My kids are healthy, my wife adores me, and God has promised me a future.

I am starting a new house for my wife near the Blue Ridge Parkway, as she has always loved that neighborhood, and where we are now is growing too much with furriners. We don't buy into the multi-cultural crap.

I have a wood furnace that also heats the water, so I have cut a lot of wood. Been selling firewood and doing tree work for 35 years. I am training my youngest son as a climber now, because , at 55, I'm only going to last another 20 years or so at climbing.

So you are saying that you shoot a .22 rifle up into trees to cut a branch you can't reach, in the city....

That's really....cool.

I had two Stihls for 20 years, felled timber enough to build a home, cut firewood enough to heat it. One recently crapped out. I bought a Husky to replace it. Haven't used it much but it seems like a fine machine.

mmm, chainsaws....

Jonsered 2165







Cut heap big wood, make heap big fire!

With only an occasional use for a chain saw nowadays, I gave my trusty old Stihl to my Son, to use on his farm.
I bought a small 18" ECHO, and for three year now, it has performed well. I am no longer doing heavy duty chain saw work, just a bit around the house.

There are 6 Stihl saws in my work shed.
019-046 and the 026 gets the most use.
It has a 16" bar and that is all you need for firewood.
It is easy to put a 20" bar in the dirt or on a rock.
The 26 is light enought to not tire you out and pleanty of power for firewood.
Check the weight and balance before you buy.

Coach

Bar length depends on what kind of wood you have available. Around here, much of the wood is lodgepole pine which never get as big as 12". A 16" bar is plenty and a lot of guys only have 14's. Bigger trees require bigger saws.

Stihl's are very reliable.

I still use an Echo 550EVL I bought new in '85. It cuts my firewood for the year plus does any odd jobs that pop up for extra money. NO problems with it at all. I did drop down to an 18" bar yrs back.

Just bought a 20" Poulan Pro and the thing cuts very well and it's a very solid saw.

For many years I've used a Stihl 038 Super with a 20 inch bar and Stihl chisel tooth chain. For most tasks I've found the 20 inch to balance well, and most trees I go after are less than 36 inches across at the base.

I usually leave the chain on until it's worn out, and I sharpen with a 12 volt grinder with the small cylindrical shaped stones...works very well. You can hook to the truck battery or if in the shop use a battery charger to run it. I carry a hi-lift jack along with some log chain and a splitting maul, and I've had to use them at times. I am looking at getting a smaller, lighter Stihl for easier limbing work, though.

I have a Husqvara 51 that I like a lot. If it ever wears out I am thinking about trying out a Stihl.

For years I ran a 610 McCulloch with 20 in bar. Made a lot of firewood and it always served me well. Starts right up even when iti's cold out and will sit and idle until out of gas if I leave it.

Decided a while back I wanted something a little lighter, give the shoulders and lower back a break, and save the 610 for big cuts only. I used a friend's 350 Husk and liked how light weight it was, great for knocking brush off a tree and for cutting most of it to firewood length... but not really very powerful at 52 cc. Thought I better check out Stihl before buying. Glad I did. Having a larger saw already in the shed, I bought the 270 with 16 inch bar. The power difference surprised me, even at 2 cc smaller engine than the Husk, it's definitely got more umph. Anyway, the thing that has surprised me the most is that the 610 has become a dust collector. Me and that little 270 woodboss get along famously and I really like the tooless chain tightening. I honestly believe I'm getting just as much wood racked per hour as I used to with the 610 and only 2 or 3 times have I needed the extra bar length. And my lower back and shoulders thank me.

YMMV...

As stated above, keep it sharp. 4 or 5 strokes with the file after every second tankfull of gas only takes a few minutes and keeps ya cutting smooth. Takes a lot of the work out of it, preserves your equipment and makes the job much safer. I'm in hardwood country and have no experience with SPF woods to speak of. You might be able to go 3 or 4 tankfulls ??? At any rate, keep it sharp. I have only 2 chains and that's only in case one breaks. I take the chains in once a year for professional sharpening just to get the angles right. Keeping an edge on them with a file, I tend to get them a little cock eyed after a few dozen sharpenings and the saw doesn't track strait going through a log. Hardly notice if I get the professional job once a year.

One thing not stated above, unless I missed it, is snow and ice will dull a chain just as fast as dirt and sand. Hit very much of anything other than wood, grab the file, it only takes a couple minutes.

If I was going to own just one saw, just for personal firewood and clean ups, expect good performance/reliability, and be the right size without being too big, I'd get a Stihl Farmboss. But I must repeat, my surprise was that that little woodboss has become my "go to" saw for pretty much everything.

Stihl's and Husky's are both good a long as you stick to the pro models with metal crankcases.
The new ranchers and the stihl 290-390's are crap compared to the pro saws.
As for size of saw. Here in Upper MI I cut mostly Rock Maple which really requires a 70cc or better saw. I run a pair of Husky 372's that have ported cylinders. I typically run a 16" bar as this will handle would up to 30", but have 20 and 24's also. I also have a ported Husky 346 for small stuff.
In the past I have owned Stihl 036,361,440 and 460's. All were good quality saws I just prefer the local Husky dealer and the fact that in general Husky's cut faster, vibrate less and have better air filter setups.

On the subject of chainsaws, do any of you guys feel that premium gas is a good idea in order to avoid the ethanol mixtures in regular? It's not always prudent to drain saws as they are often used sporadically and would be a pain to fuel up for small quick jobs now and then. Does the gas/oil mix counteract the ethanol?
I have a tendency to use premium in all my small engines since I found out they start easier with it.
Just a thunk about the subject ...

I almost brought up the gas thing, highwayman. But it usually starts a fight on here

I refuse ethanol in everything, especially small engines. If ever a day comes that ethanol can be brought to market without adding to the national deficit I may consider burning it. But probably not as it destroys seals and gaskets and other important stuff.

Screw ethanol.

A great idea, since ethanol will destroy/stretch the diaphram in the fuel pumps of two-stroke engines in short order.
Premium fuel (or avgas if you have access to it) are the best thing you can do for any two stroker you have these days. With MTBE being outlawed, regular or mid-grad gasoline can be expected to have a shelf-life of 30-45 days without a quality storage additive. I use PRI-G in all of the gas I buy, whether it be in the vehicles or in a can.

I run premium, non ethanol doped fuel in all my two stroke equipment.

I use seafoam to treat my gas.

Cleanest 'working' saw I've ever seen. Must be the 'before' pics.

Yep!

Too clean.

That handful of shavings is prolly from an old beat up 50cc Stihl.

False advertising?

ps

We should have known...
Pics from one of the members who caught....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zey8567bcg

This is what works for me: I cut a few cords of firewood each year and find that a 28" bar saves my back because I don't have to bend over as far using it. With my back, that is a big deal.

I just traded in an 8 year old Stihl MS460 and got a new Stihl 362R. There were never any problems with the MS460, I just wanted a lighter saw that would still run a 28" bar. The 362 is a couple pounds lighter than the 460 was, and I can really tell the difference. It's also the lightest Stihl that can use a 28" bar. It costs $720 with the wrap handle.

I also invested in an Oregon lightweight bar a few years ago (I bought it for the 460 and it fits the 362, so I'm using the same bar as before)that has an aluminum center in it that balances better than the all steel bar and of course, is lighter. They're expensive, but well worth it to me. They run about $150 now, I think.

For chain I run 3/8", Full Comp, Round Chisel, in .063 gauge. I find the 3/8 will cut anything I put it into without going to the larger 404, and the .063 gauge bar doesn't fill up with wood like an .050 gauge can if I cut soft/wet wood. The Full Comp chain has more cutters than Skip (that's why they call them full and skip)and I think it stays sharp longer and cuts faster. Full Skip is best for soft wood and wood that swells (like cedar), where you need the extra space between cutters to haul chips.

I would run round teeth because it can stay sharp longer if you get into dirt, but Stihl doesn't make it in 3/8",.063 gauge.

I have a little Stihl 210 that I use if I stick my bigger saw, for some limbing, and to throw in the truck when I go somewhere. It's got a 16" bar and it's really cute, but if I had to use it to cut all my wood, I'd buy a heatpump. Like some guys have said though, a smaller than 28" bar works fine, if your back is in better shape than mine.

Don't know much about chainsaws, but my 25 year old Partner died, and a new ignition coil is $50-70, so I'm looking for a replacement. What I've read here has been very helpful indeed. So, thanks everyone.

What I found by reading owner reviews is that Homelite, "home grade" Poulan and Craftsman are strongly disliked by people who own them. based on that, my guess is that they are brands to avoid.

Pioneer/Partners were good saws- I'm still running Pioneers that my grandfather bought back in the early 1970's. Can't kill them. You should be able to find a coil for your Partner for a lot less than $50, google it and you'll find a lot of places that still have surplus parts for them. If it has been that good of a saw (and most were), fix it when you get around to it and keep it for a backup.
You're right on the box store saws. The advice in this thread is sound- you can't go wrong with a pro-grade Stihl or Husky. They are worth what you pay.

i have husky 372 wih 24 inch bar cut around 15 cords per year. works great the biggest thing youll want to learn is how to sharpen your chains correctly. you can have a great day in the woods with a sharp chain. or a misarable one with a dull chain. good luck. joe

Dad has been dead now since 1997, and I have no idea how log h had this saw prior to that, but I'm guessing close to 20 years. It is a Husqvarna 61. Great saw! Starts good, runs good, and cuts like a hot knife through butter.

And for you guys that feel the need to lean on a saw to get it to cut better, keep the rakers filed right, and let the saw do the work - otherwise, buy an axe.

I heat with wood and burn 4-6 cord a year. I have no problem with my Stihl MS270 Wood Boss for cutting 6 or so cord every year.

I'd say Stihl or Husqvarna. Don't pick yer saw with I think this will do the job I need but by I know this will do the job. A bit more saw is better than a bit less saw.

Another Husky 61.. Great saw, too bad we can't get them here.

Pretty chips; it looks like plastic . I've never cut wood that color...I've never seen wood that color. What is it?

I'm not sure of the model #, but that 61 looks exactly like a model of Jansered that is sold in Canada. I have a friend that runs a small-engine and outboard shop up there in n.e. Ontario that sells Jansered (among many other things) and he said there are several model of Jansereds and Huskys available there that aren't in the US. Could this be one of them?

Some crazy jungle tree, maybe Peruba Rosa, maybe something else. Those chips oxidized to beige in just a few hours.

I don't know about the Jonsereds, but these 61's are made in Brazil Husqvarnas that are not available in the US, as it's a long discontinued model. Still a good saw. If they started remaking 288's, I'd smuggle one in for sure..

I run Huskys and my dad runs Stihls. If I was going to choose between the two I would base the choice more on the quality and proximity of a local dealer, whether it's Stihl or Husky.

The saw in the picture is a Husqvarna 268. It's an older model that I doubt is in production any longer. It's a lot like the Husky 272/372 saw that has something of a cult following. The x72's hit a sweat spot on power, weight, and price that appeals to a lot of folks.

I heard a rumour that Stihl no longer makes their saws but is having them made in China. I have no idea if this is true as the source is not always reliable. I would find out before making the choice to buy one.

I'm averaging between 5-9 cord cut a year. For the past 12 years I've run a Jonsered 2050 Turbo. It still runs very well because I take care of it and don't abuse it. I have 3 or 4 chains and swap them out when they loose their edge.

When I was looking for a saw originally, I was encouraged to handle as many different quality brands as i could. I'm glad I did, as the ergonomics of the saws are very different. I'm at the point where I may upgrade to a 60/65cc saw and I'm still leaning towards the Jonsered or Domlars - why, ergonomics and dealer service. Don't count out quality dealer service.

Handle a bunch (if you can), buy a little more saw than you think you'll need and pick up an extra couple chains. Then buy some safety chaps and a helmet and you're all set.

Best of luck.

Mike.

Oh jeez.. If the same unreliable source was reporting that you have sex with farm animals, would you post it?

That would make the source out to be a untrue so no. I do not know the source well enough to be able to trust him as well as I would someone like T Lee. That is why I put rumour in the above and the disclaimer. Some of us here do not to buy China made products. Also why I stated I would find out before I bought. I use a Dalmer, Stihl and a Husky here on the farm.

OK here is the info:

LINK

So, the source is at least somewhat correct. They make saws in China. I have no clue if any of those saws are imported to the USA.

Stihl is a global company.

Products that are for sale in the US are manufactured in Virgina Beach.......

Bought a new Husky 365 last Xmas - great saw.

You won't go wrong with a professional grade Stihl or Husky. I cut about 15 cord a year using a Husky 353 (18") and Stihl 360 Pro (20"). That early recommendation of a Stihl 260 Pro (or Husky 353 or 346XP) would be a good choice for firewood, but a size larger (Stihl 360/Husky 357XP372XP) will cut you more, faster with a couple of pounds more weight to handle. Both dealers are in my area but the Husky guy is closest and has provided good service.

Well it's been awhile and probably no one is following this but just today I bought a Stihl MS 310. I didn't know it but our hardware store is a Stihl dealer and there is a repair shop here too. Town is 30 miles away but that is as close as it gets for anything. I was looking at the 290, 270 then decided on the 310. They were all 399-429. So cost wasn't really an issue and I decide to go with the 310 for just a little more power. Dealer gave me a case with it too.

Going on it's first work day tomorrow.