98 Travel trailer.... I have not looked at the battery wiring.

But the lights flicker just a bit. Enough to aggravate, and then when the AC comes on they get what I call 50% dimmer and flicker... and I have no clue where to look next.

They flicker if its only a few of them on, and nothing else.
30 amp trailer. RV plug on end of it. RV in use receptacle at the deer lease. Appx 25 foot run from panel to RV. stranded #10 wire used.

I"ve snugged all the connections I could access at the inner panel/and fuse box.

Looking for suggestions.

Thanks, Jeff

Sounds like a ground problem.

I assumed that and or neutral... but have not found such yet.... but may not be looking at all the places I should be.

Does it everywhere we use the trailer so have to assume its in the trailer.

Thanks, Jeff

I'm not an electrician, but I do have a question.

Is the flickering a regular, constant flicker or intermittent?

With the AC making such a big difference, my first place to look would be in the RV fuse panel, namely pull the panel and look at all of the connections behind it, particularly the main.

It sound like low voltage, which could easily be your extension cord. There might be a defective wire or connection in one of the plugs.

One other place, is the connector where your extension cord plugs into the RV. Barbara had one go bad on her horse trailer. The connector had screw-on connections for the trailer wiring to attach to and the ground had come loose inside the receptacle.

Just my W.A.G.

Ed

Most rv lights are 12 volt.
Sounds like a faulty ground,start with the battery then with a good meter check the sockets at the panel box.
Greenlee makes a good meter for this kind of thing.

You should see the swings here at the house.

First thing I'd suspect.

If the lights are 12 volt (more than likely) the second culprit is battery, third is inverter.

RVs', God's way of saying, "stay in a hotel".

I thought it was "RV's, God's way of saying; "you have too much money and not enough projects.""

Ed

Use a good VOM to find it. Start at the incoming feed then move in looking for voltage changes. A good old fashioned analog meter may work as well. This "flicker" could be induced by one of the loads (battery charger etc..) isolate them one at a time...

And the lights dimming when the AC load comes on is definitely a voltage drop...

I'm tellin' ya. From the day they come off the lot NEW - they're a pain in the kiester. My current model is Keystone something or other, and has had perhaps 50 nights worth of use. In those fifty nights thare have been floods, non-operating electronics, dead batteries, gas valves that won't function, refrigerator that functions as a toaster oven, a slide out - that won't......

Is it all the lights, or only the ones that run off the battery when you're not hooked up to power? Mine was doing the same thing, it was a bad converter.

Purchase a circuit tester that plugs in which have lights that indicate electrical problem. Most building supplies carry these. As posters stated its probably a faulty ground or perhaps inverter problem.

I had the same problem in my RV and it turned out to be the house batteries. When I first turned them on they were OK but after a few minutes they would get really dim and flicker.

I bought a brand new Allegro motor home in 2005 (it was a left over 2004 model) and I never got through working on it. Had a blow out with 6,000 miles on it. No warranty on the tires because of their age (2 year old Goodyears).

I don't even want to know my cost per mile in owning that one and Allegro is supposed to be first rate. I'd estimate my cost per mile to be around $20 or more and I'm serious. I sold it when I stopped shooting and wholesaled it to Camping World just to be rid of it.

The happiest two days in the life of an RV owner is the day they buy the RV exceeded only by the day they sell it.

Sounds like we have matching RVs. I make it a rule to carry my BIG toolbox when we go camping and I usually end up needing it. An RV is like a boat with axles-you simply throw your money in it.

Re the OP- I'd check to see if the flicker is still there when operating on 12V only. My bet is that it won't be. I'm betting it's a connection at the panel or an inverter that's not making clean power. Have you checked voltage at the receptacles? What is the inverter putting out? Does it fluctuate? Drop drastically under load?

Here I was, thinking of buying a RV.

If there that much trouble, I dont want one.

Thanks for the advice!

Ground or converter which are notorious for doing strange things and going tits up in RV's.

If a person were to calculate the cost pr night you actually pay with an RV, you'd stay in the finest of hotels at a fraction of the cost.

That truth only multiples when applied to motor homes.

I understand the purpose of an RV, it allows you to camp, or take part in social events, some even have legitimate business use. That doesn't change the math, they're expensive to use - let alone buy.

Only exception that may apply is folks who live in 'em (either seasonally, or for work). Even then, it's expensive to use 'em. You have to rent a spot, pay for sewer, electric, gas, and normally television. They're just no bargain.

It's similar to saying "I'll reload to save money". HA!

Will print and check all stuff out the week before deer season.

Motel would be easy, then it would only be a 25 or so mile drive out to the lease every morning and evenign.... yeah right.. grins.

The RV ain't nearly as bad as the 4 boats we own though....

I have not replaced the battery in a LONG time. IE I can't recall when. So that may be a starting point. But its never run off the battery alone ever. Just always plugged in and we keep it plugged in year round in the barn here to keep it charged.

Some ask about flickering... lights flicker to an extent ANY time they are on. I THINK I have one light thats not 12volt, IE takes a normal bulb, and it doesn't flicker that I can recall, that may well have answered the question where to look.

Got all the greenlee stuff.

And won't rule out the cord or end... Have checked the panel in and out.. I've wired houses before and installed panels so thats where I started with trouble... Just dont' have a clue on the 12v or inverter stuff.

Anyone got a clue on how you test an inverter.

While I'm at it, the power jack in the front was intermitent, and the slide has become horribly slow going in and out..... I thought those were 2 age related issues, IE replace both motors... but is that now screaming battery you dumbass?

YES.

As are the lights, they are actually operating off the battery, via the inverter. Could be the battery ground, or battery, or bad positive, or.....

....bad house battery. Change the battery then see if you have the problem. I'd bet that you won't.

with all those boats, you surely have another battery around you can try. I've had batteries that were good enough to start a supercharged big block but had similar lighting (and other) problems in the cuddy cabin on our last boat.

Good on 'ya for the Greenlee equipment. You're keeping the wife employed. They make terrific tools.

haha on spare batteries... 2 don't use em, 1 is down( duh... fuggin ethanol have to replace a complete under deck fuel tank next) and the airboat ones aint' great.

I'll size it next time up, run over to wally world, swap and see what gives.

My dumbazz self... I just think plugged in to socket, none of the rest should matter... but I"m wrong... Grins.

Jeff

Wow.. You 've had some really bad luck.. Considering the 3 we've had from new, only one small issue came up and that was quickly addressed by the dealer..

Now, after reading your last post, I would place money on the inverter (along with the battery - replace that for sure).. They're not that long-lived an item.. I had to replace one on my '06 Cherokee that had gone bad.. And the reason it went bad is I had the mistaken idea that if I plugged in the camper all the time (and over winter) that the inverter would keep the battery charged..

WRONG.. all it did was burn out the inverter.. Never again. But that unit did NOT have a battery isolater switch like the new Raptor has.. All I'm going to do now this fall is put a Battery Tender on it and all should be jake..

Good info that... will replace battery in 2 weeks, and then research the inverters and where the hell it is, and how to test it possibly...

Had not thought of the issue of keeping it plugged in being bad... may have to find a trickle charger at wally world and put that in, in the spring when we bring it back from deer camp.

THanks, Jeff

Battery and inverter.

Replace the battery.

For testing the inverter, use a true RMS DMM and watch it while drawing an actual load. You ~SHOULD~ be able to see the voltage fluctuating. If your fluctuation is greater than 10%, it is out of UL specs and should be replaced.

If you are familiar with a Wiggy, you could also use that to test, as it is an actual draw down meter. But I am reluctant to recommend it, as bad things can happen if you aren't familiar with how one does and doesn't work (intermittent cycle rating).

Good luck. Trouble shooting can be a b!tch.

*Also, while it probably, goes w/o saying, check the Neutral and Ground connections on the inverter.