I don't see much rock. It must get rockier east, and north of you? How far did they haul the gravel?
The farm field directly .... surrounding our 10 acre home place is quite rocky for farm land. rocks ranging from apple size to... watermelon size I suppose.
Our ground is a layer (8" to 12") of black dirt over clay. We stripped that black layer off and started filling with class 5 from the clay. Looking to build a lift of about 10" above grave for the shop slab, then pour the 5" slab (with thickened edge) on that lift.
This particular gravel came about 11 miles. We had to go with the closest pit that had some class 5 processed in a pile. We have closer pits but they don't have decent material put up yet. Our construction season is off to a late start due to the winter that wouldn't quit.
Yes, the room with the hoist is where a rotisserie will be mounted to a body, from there it can go straight outside or inside the building for whirly/twirly/flippy/spinny work.
A lot of under side work will be done right on the hoist, including some media blasting if it doesn't look like frame off or rotisserie is necessary.
99% of the "dirty work" will be done in that room with the hoist.
Who makes them dave? There is a company in Shakopee, MN that sells them. Benco. The have a 2-post and rotary lifts. I'm not sure if they have what you're looking for or not.
Concrete guys are a goofy lot. There is a TON of work to get caught up on from the spring. We have the same problem here, even when ordering a few hundred yards a day .
I do not plan on doing any significant resto mod alterations on projects that I personally purchase and build for resale. I feel it is too risky at least starting out for me to speculate as to what a prospective buyer might view as pure awesomeness that he or she cannot live without.
Too risky.
Now if a customer comes to me with a vision and the money to back it up, I'll do what ever they want.
You need to be weldin' a floor pan into a '34 Ford Coupe.
,...not catering to a buncha toothless, half wit fuggers who ain't got 12 cents between 'em,...'cause they need a damn tent stove.
Sell the dumb fugs two sticks to rub together for $27.50 each.
They'll finally get cold enough to go on back to the damn trailer park,..
,....tent fuggin' stoves,....
,..sheeeeeit,..
Laffin....Sage Advice..!
I'm surprised a tiddy didn't pop out somewhere in Bristoe's post. Seems like a tiddy is always poppin out once he starts talking about toothless half wits....
Very cool Dave!! This may have already been covered but will this be your full time gig? Did you quit your day job or are you just growing?
Congrats either way!
Well, it is to be a full time gig for me. I've already told my current employer and due to the slow start to my construction.... I'm still with said employer and I'm sure they are starting to wonder if I'm ever going to leave. Lol!
Some neat stuff on that website -- you really should tell Dave about it though!
Dave, one of the things that you could incorporate pretty easily (I think) at this stage is the flush-mounted floor lighting under your lift that the website shows:
I don't think I have ever seen that, but it sure looks like a good idea to me.
We have a family in our neighborhood from the same part of the world as the Shed of Doom builder. This group built their own porch and fence. I guess I can understand someone that doesn't know what a level is, but my God their porch has almost as much slope as their roof. And they have adjustable footers so it's not like they couldn't have eye-balled level. Needless to say the fence leans to and fro and meanders around the property line.
I'll be running a pair of 2 stage compressors with the pressure cut in switches slightly offset so that the come on in stages, primary and backup to double the capacity if needed.
I have a little bit of progress to report.
our foam and pex tubing is done.
these rectangular pockets are the thickened areas for my 2 post hoist.
Far end of this photo you can see where all of the loops come up into what will be my utility room.
Also my youngest boy helped me assemble these maple butcher block topped benches. Gladiator brand, 25" by 8'. These are actually made in the USA, I like that!
I really like these benches, very well made and very nice looking. My mechanical bench will likely end up getting a stainless cap. This bench will go along a wall next to rollaway toolbox, typical garage bench set up. the second one will hang out from the wall like a walk around bar, I will be able to walk around it, work from both sides for clean work.
There's a combination of blue board insulation sheeting plus a spray foam later totaling 2" or foam insulation which will separate the gold ground from my cozy warm concrete slab. Hot water is pumped through those tubes to heat the concrete. That is how this building will be heated.
I like the in-floor heating, Dave. My dad has that in his house. Makes for warm feet, something I value highly in cold weather!! If I ever build another house, that's what I'll be putting in it. Geothermal, if I can.
I predict lots of money coming your way,...made the old fashioned way,..skill and hard work.
Skill and hard work money is the best kind.
It really belongs to you when you make it that way.
Well said, Bristoe. There's something satisfying about KNOWING you've earned your paycheck.
That in-floor heat is the way to go, Dave.
I've been involved in lots of in-floor heat installations, but I've never seen a spray over ridgid foam system like that. Guess no one around here does that, but it looks like a much better system than laying down ridgid boards only.
Are you going to heat with a wood or gas boiler, on demand gas fired tankless, simple water heater or some other method?
We plan on handling the heat with about a 25KW elect boiler unit designed just for underfloor heat. Pumps and flow valves will control the heat distribution.
The spray foam thing is a new twist to existing methods around here.
I'm excited because it will be a moisture barrier as well, no sweating concrete for me on the hot summer days, that will make it easier to keep the humidity and mustiness under control.
How thick will the concrete be on top of the spray in foam?
5", except the edges which will be thicker, and also the areas under my 2 post asymmetric hoist, hoist pads will be 8 to 10" thick, the perimeter (edges) will be 14-16" thick.
There's a combination of blue board insulation sheeting plus a spray foam later totaling 2" or foam insulation which will separate the gold ground from my cozy warm concrete slab. Hot water is pumped through those tubes to heat the concrete. That is how this building will be heated.
Way cool Dave! I am happy for you and just a little bit jealous ; looks pretty stinking flat though. You must be over toward the western part of 'far northern' Minn, huh?
Looks awesome! I'm sure you've noodled that design around long enough that you've left no stone unturned. Wish you all the success in the world! I'm sure you know that many of us are envious of your intestinal fortitude and just plain big balls to jump and follow your dreams, not to mention the tangible rewards of seeing the transformations of Detroit's finest!
I'm not jealous, but I am envious. Your new shop will be the "best of the best" without a doubt! The floor heat will be your best friend...............I have worked in shops that had it and they were wonderful! Best of luck to you sir, you deserve it for the excellent work that you do...........I only wish that I was younger than I am and that I could afford to build such a fine shop. I am a car guy, and love to dabble in all the facets of the trade, but lack the facilities required. Best of luck to you and your future, but from what I've seen, you don't need luck. Mark, aka lngrng.
We've been here for 20 years now. The kids know it as their home town.
Here, I have a picture of a completed electric boiler system. This is what feeds all them tubes that are going to be embedded in our concrete. This is one of my brother's systems in a building he has.
dave are heated slabs designed in a way where they could be drained (blow it out with air pressure???) to prevent freeze damage...... Thinking about a long term power outage.... Owner needing to be away for a long period of time.....
We've been here for 20 years now. The kids know it as their home town.
Here, I have a picture of a completed electric boiler system. This is what feeds all them tubes that are going to be embedded in our concrete. This is one of my brother's systems in a building he has.
Your electric must be pretty cheap to be able to heat like that especially since it isn't exactly a tropical paradise up there.
I blame my early life in that country for my desire to live even further north - enjoy your kids while you have them; they could suffer similar maladies.
dave are heated slabs designed in a way where they could be drained (blow it out with air pressure???) to prevent freeze damage...... Thinking about a long term power outage.... Owner needing to be away for a long period of time.....
Glycol is commonly run in this type of system at least in cold country; it is a nice way to heat even way out where I live - if you can insulate well enough not to have permafrost issues anyway. (Oil is much more efficient as a fuel source however using the Toyotomi 180-type water heaters- out in these parts)
I don't believe our electric rates here will go up in the foreseeable future. LP can fluctuate a lot as we saw last winter with near $6/gallon prices for a while. NG while cheap is only available in towns.
I would look into an off-peak electric system with an LP forced air back-up system. The forced air is nice for quick recovery after the doors get opened during the cold months.
ND have you looked into a wood boiler to supply heat?
I don't believe our electric rates here will go up in the foreseeable future. LP can fluctuate a lot as we saw last winter with near $6/gallon prices for a while. NG while cheap is only available in towns.
I would look into an off-peak electric system with an LP forced air back-up system. The forced air is nice for quick recovery after the doors get opened during the cold months.
ND have you looked into a wood boiler to supply heat?
I live in the country and my Uncle was telling me that at the last township meeting he was at, he found out that they are running a Natural Gas pipeline right down the road that runs by my house. It sounds like I may have the option to tie in. That would be great considering I switched to propane 2 weeks before the prices went out of control last fall.
The crew started the pour with the edges where the slab is thicker.
they used a boom truck with a remote telescoping belt that fed the concrete out to a drop chute. The owner of the truck walked around the outside of the pour and controlled exactly where the mix was dropping in. He had a wireless remote on his belt that controlled the swing, extension, feed rate, height etc. He also has an alarm button to signal to the concrete truck when to stop and start feeding the boom truck with each load of concrete that came.
Partial pour complete here, screeding with a 12' vibratory screed.
A couple of power trowels are finishing the top here.
coming along nice Dave, you do a nice job, never seen a conc [pump ] truck like that, what's the maximum reach ? lots of guys up here are doing the floors after the building is up going thru the bay doors some as many as 10 drive thru bays up to 80 ft long. any slope on the floor for washout or is it going to be squeaky clean all the time? I enjoy the pice and the quality of the work
Looks real good. I'm glad they used the conveyor. It makes things easier for the crew and you get a nicer, even placement of mud. It's looking real good. When is the lumber for the walls showing up?
Hey, thanks for bringing up birdwatchers adventure. Roger posted something on facebook about it, he explained a little about what he was doing and provided a link. I've been meaning to find that post and check it out.
I really like these benches, very well made and very nice looking. My mechanical bench will likely end up getting a stainless cap. This bench will go along a wall next to rollaway toolbox, typical garage bench set up. the second one will hang out from the wall like a walk around bar, I will be able to walk around it, work from both sides for clean work.
Put a good set of wheels under those benches. You can thank me for that later.
Yes, they should have sealed it when they pulled the forms off. Actually, they could/should have done it last night when they finished with the surface finishing.
They should use an "Ag" type sprayer or bug-sprayer at about 150sf/gallon of curing compound...or what the manufacturer recommends.
But we'll work through it. The company I'm working with is showing signs of responsibility, giving me every reason to believe they will "make it right".
I have evolved upon a path of logic and spiritual like reasoning that has furthered my "be cool" skills beyond the Dalai focking Lama level of cool headedness.
"Wow, he sure seems calm for a guy that should be really pissed right now."
Just remind yourself, it's worth the time to have the foundation done right.
I'm still waiting on a F@#!ing building permit from the city before our builder can start our foundation. Was hoping the house would be done right when the kids are off for Christmas break which will give us 3 weeks to move and unpack, now its looking like we might not be able to move until January of next year. On the upside they will be able to get it closed in before fall.
My grand plan was to have the house done before the school year started, but like any project, everything has taken longer than expected. A good business skill is getting used to delays w/o blowing a gasket.
Crack a cold one and sit back and breathe Dave, hope all comes out well and quickly as it should. hate to see you held up longer for buiding now.
We both know these guys buschy. I am not mad at them, and that's the truth. I honestly believe both they and I are equally frustrated with the situation.
Top skinned over too fast, areas where the cream layer got "burned" the surface was too tight, water was still trying too bleed out but couldn't breathe through those burned spots. So, it basically blistered the cream layer loose.
Something like that.
That's basically the best theory right now and my own impression from what I've gathered.
The concrete guys are looking towards the company that supplies them with mix powder, thinking something caught them off guard with the condition or age of the powder itself that lead to a "hot mix".
These guys batch a good volume on a daily basis, they aren't what you'd call a now and then small time operation. One of the crew guys is a friend of mine, he came out to look this morning. He said he's been doing this for 20 yrs and he's only seen this happen once before.
one of the front runners currently in the solution offerings would be to address the problem areas by chipping the loose material, scarify the shallow cavities or what ever the preferred surface prep is, then use a leveling material in those specific areas, then surface prep the entire slab with something like maybe steel shot blast and have a specialty contractor apply a professional industrial coating.
Something like that, we'll see. I don't really know yet, still analyzing the issue and developing that plan.
Another proposal is to scarify/grind the whole top and apply a 2" cap (another pour) over what is already there. There is a lot more detail involved in either option, but those are the 2 basic solution options I know of right now.
Dave, if they cant do anything with it or get it figured out, see what they'd do to epoxyify the whole slab for you. I know they are good guys, they may be able to help that way as well, not sure if that would do it but could make it look cool too if they do that correctly as well.
Experienced or not, don't let them give you the "hot mix" bullschitt. They didn't get a hot mix, they were too slow for the size of the pour. They needed more labor.
It happened to me last fall on a train station project. Not enough labor and they lost the mix.
That thick edge holds A LOT of heat and it will for quite awhile. That slab will cure for about 28 days. The heat is what makes it get hard. We can pour a bridge in November and cover it with insulated blankets, and at 20*F, the conc will still be 80*F.
A lot of times a big slab will be poured in sections, usually as long/wide as the screed. But doing it that way requires a lot of laborers and finishers.
Is it more of a cosmetic thing, or is it structural. Sounds more cosmetic. That being said, you sure as heck didn't pay that much money to have it look bad.
As a fellow business owner, this is just a speed bump along the road. There will be more. You've got that entrepreneurial spirit that made 'merica great! I'm sure it's that burning desire to get going that makes these kinds of delays so frustrating. As they say in that Wag the Dog movie, "This is nothing!" A ways down the road you're just gonna laugh at this one.
Think of it this way, if you get the surface coated with epoxy on the contractors dime, it is a win for you in the long run. It just makes the run take a little longer.
Experienced or not, don't let them give you the "hot mix" bullschitt. They didn't get a hot mix, they were too slow for the size of the pour. They needed more labor.
It happened to me last fall on a train station project. Not enough labor and they lost the mix.
I'm very glad they're working with you on it!!!
This ^^^^^
Originally Posted by tzone
Originally Posted by 458 Lott
I'd be more up for the industrial coating vs. a 2" cap. Seems like a thin cap like that would just be asking for trouble down the road.
Bingo!
And this ^^^^
I doubt you could an engineer to sign off on a 2" cap anyway, and I'd dam sure want one before I'd even consider it.
I contacted the concrete company today. Explained that I needed something in print from Lafarge indicating that they stand behind this process, also asked for an engineer to sign off on it.
I hate to be a dick, but this is kind of important, it's not a sidewalk.
I contacted the concrete company today. Explained that I needed something in print from Lafarge indicating that they stand behind this process, also asked for an engineer to sign off on it.
I hate to be a dick, but this is kind of important, it's not a sidewalk.
Not at all. You're a businessman looking out for the businesses interests. If you don't look out for your business, no one else will. That kind of fortitude is going to make your business a success.
Curious, will the 2" inch cap have any affect on heating the building? It would seem the system would have that much harder.
the heating is one thing that concerns me too dave, now having to go through another layer basically more concrete. i hope it will still sinc through the extra layer and not take as long to keep it constant. the heating cooling process of the system could be challenged. I hope they can get you going soon. Time to start framing!
I contacted the concrete company today. Explained that I needed something in print from Lafarge indicating that they stand behind this process, also asked for an engineer to sign off on it.
I hate to be a dick, but this is kind of important, it's not a sidewalk.
Does this mean getting a registered PE to put his seal on it?
That's unfortunate,however,you should try to get an industrial grade epoxy finish for little, or no extra cost out of the deal,that could be to your advantage in the long run.if it is purely visual thing, no structural issues, you may be very pleased with the final result.very frustrating now though. I think all will be fine in the long run. Get an engineer to sign off and move on. good luck
I've observed the various theories and practices with underfloor heating/slabs over the years.
The most popular method (used to be) to burry your heating coils, be it elect or water tubing, in a bed of sand below the concrete slab.
the theory was to create more storage, more of a heat bank to help deal with the off peak rate effects.
back then a lot of the installs also had no insulation around the outside or underneath.
the perimeter insulation came first, then people started putting insulation under the sand as well. At the same time, others were choosing to put the heating coils inside of the concrete and they too evolved from no insulation to partial and then full.
There are still to this day 2 separate camps of thought on which way is best, in the sand or in the cement. and within those camps there are still various theories on the insulation part of the install.
So, the way I see it, I just have a little more heat storage with 2 more inches of slab. I am still confident in the system because of the foam insulation that my slab is poured into basically like a mold.
Should be no problem with heating, you just have a bigger thermal mass which should keep the temperature more constant, not a bad thing.
I'm not a civil engineer, but I'd hope the cap would have some sort of reinforcing mesh in it. There are some amazing adhesives out there, so bonding probably won't be an issue, I'd just be concerned with the thin (for concrete) 2" cap cracking down the road, hence the reinforcing mesh.
On the up side, you now have a thicker slab which for mounting your lift and other equipment which is never a bad thing. But I'd suggest looking at chemical anchors for the lift vs. the typical wedge anchors just to seal holes and help further bond the two layers together.
The rod is glued into the concrete, entirely a chemical bond. That said they are typically much stronger than a mechanical fastener as the load is spread along the entire length of the threaded rod vs. concentrated at the mechanical wedge. Also the rod is sealed by the glue so no issues of water getting in around the fastener and causing it to corrode. The two keys are properly cleaning the hole of the dust after drilling and making sure the adhesive use by date hasn't expired.
I've used them for anchors for rock climbing. A bit of a bugger to set on a cliff and wait for the adhesive to cure which is why I rarely use them, but with a ss rod they'll pretty much last until the rock has eroded around them.
The building starts tomorrow (as in walls and such)
I'm placing a large (by my standards) order today for things like my 2 post hoist, tons of shop tools ranging from lenco panel spotter with a couple handy attachments to old school drum brake tools. It's a good list, ball joint service set, coil spring compressor kit, torque wrench, big industrial shop vac, a bunch of new hutchins sanders, flammable storage cabinet, a big media blast cabinet, 25 ton press, shop vice, drill press, bench grinder, go-jack wheel dolly set, body panel work stands, drill bit sets, deep vice grip clamps, various pullers... blah, blah, blah, so on and so forth... my head is spinning... lol!
Now wtf am I going to do? I wont have any excuses for not being able to get anything done any more!
The building starts tomorrow (as in walls and such)
I'm placing a large (by my standards) order today for things like my 2 post hoist, tons of shop tools ranging from lenco panel spotter with a couple handy attachments to old school drum brake tools. It's a good list, ball joint service set, coil spring compressor kit, torque wrench, big industrial shop vac, a bunch of new hutchins sanders, flammable storage cabinet, a big media blast cabinet, 25 ton press, shop vice, drill press, bench grinder, go-jack wheel dolly set, body panel work stands, drill bit sets, deep vice grip clamps, various pullers... blah, blah, blah, so on and so forth... my head is spinning... lol!
Now wtf am I going to do? I wont have any excuses for not being able to get anything done any more!
LMAO!
Holeee! You should put all that on a Cabelas card and get points up the ying yang!
Instead of your typical wedge stud you either put in a chemical capsule that is mixed when you drive the threaded rod into the capsule.
Or you use a schoocum dual caulking gun to mix/shoot the epoxy/goop mix into the hole and then set the rod.
The bottom Hilti picture is what we use almost exclusivly on anything we need to anchor, and it's written into the specs as such.
Hilti hit is what is spected for bridge reconstruction when old conc is chipped off and new rebar is inserted to change configuration of pilings and such. good stuff.
Hoping I'm not stepping on any toes by posting this fastener. It's what we used exclusively when setting equipment when I worked as a millwright. Many sizes.
Looks good Northern Dave. Nice size. Though I ended up in a clinic, one of my avocations is construction and your project looks like it is being managed and done very well.
Hoping I'm not stepping on any toes by posting this fastener. It's what we used exclusively when setting equipment when I worked as a millwright. Many sizes.
lol, no. It's not a basket, it's just a back frame for a set of fork tines. It's a regular telehandler and they have the forks slid together with a home made boom mast slid over the forks kind of like fork tine extensions. They get a little more reach that way, there is just a short chain and hook off the end of the boom. They just use it for setting the rafters.
I could access photobucket on my mobile device and then emailed image codes to my desktop and posted that way.
I had a photobucket app that automatically uploaded all pics taken with my phone directly to my photobucket page.
I have my phone set to do that, Fluffy. It's botb handy and cumbersome at the same time. My PB acct is full of pics of water heaters, water softeners and other plumbing that I've bid for replacement.
Jealous is a much used term, and not nice.......call me envious! I'd love to have built my own shop when I was in my 30's, but alas, I'm 62 now, and retired. Oh, by the way, just so you will know......retirement is extremely under-rated!
Jealous is a much used term, and not nice.......call me envious! I'd love to have built my own shop when I was in my 30's, but alas, I'm 62 now, and retired. Oh, by the way, just so you will know......retirement is extremely under-rated!
Well, I'm not in my 30's anymore either, I wasn't ready back then.
Heck, if you had to, you could use it like it is for the winter, couldn't ya? I mean, there is a windbreak and all with that tyvek and you could start a little fire to keep you warm.
I'm standing in it, making impact driver noises, grinder noises, sander, spray gun....
Hey Dave, you still keeping that Trunk Monkey around? I'm sure he would make a great night watchman (er, monkey...) but if you can teach him to run a spray gun you might really be onto something....
True story, someone has an elephant that uses oil paints to make impressionistic paintings... they sell well at respectable prices....
Are you going to spray foam the walls too Dave, Looks Great. Go deep on the insulation up top there, run all your wiring in conduit on the outside so you can change easily if needed. put plenty of outlets as well all over. My neighbors just ran what looked like a pex for their air lines as well around there new 60x80 shop. Keep Going man!! Doing great!!
hey buschter, I don't think we can spring for the foam in the walls. I may call and price out a 1" option and go with the fiberglass over that, but I doubt it will happen.
Yes we are surface mounting all the power, and my air will be routed in one of those new pex type airline kits... several actually.
hey buschter, I don't think we can spring for the foam in the walls. I may call and price out a 1" option and go with the fiberglass over that, but I doubt it will happen.
Yes we are surface mounting all the power, and my air will be routed in one of those new pex type airline kits... several actually.
Dave, awesome progress there! Can you post a link to the Pex airline kits? My Google-fu is murky this morning. Thanks, my brain cells appreciate it.
Oh, not this year and maybe not till 2016, but I want my first car again. 1968 Mercury Cougar. 302, automatic, red. Please have it ready no later than the end of 2016, thanks, Mark
Dave about twenty years ago my ex-boss and hunting partner plumbed in an air compressor and manifold riser system to distribute air to the different work stations around his shop. The Distribution system from the Air Compressor to the work stations was run through the overhead using two inch black pipe with a line down from the overhead to each work station. We went to the local NAPA Store and them make hydrolic lines to a specified length and used them down from the overhead to each work station.
That was twenty years ago and the hydrolic lines are still in use today with less than a half pound of air loss in a month for the whole system. Think of this for a minute or two. The hydrolic lines are designed to handle a minimum of 2,500 PSI of hydrolic oil and you are not going have more than 250 or 300 Pounds of air pressure in reserve in your compressor system at any time.
I just thought I'd throw this little bit of info in your direction feel free to use it if you think it will work for you.
Dave, did you promise them boys some gold coins or something as a bonus for finishing quick like? They, and you are moving right along.
Clyde
Forum member "white bear" can attest to the following.
These men are from a specific community in Northern MN that happens to hold high consistency in work ethics and old world noble values. I do mean the best I have ever observed from one specific area, ever.
I've been a lot of places in the world and it has not gone unnoticed by me, the phenomenon that I associate with a town called "Greenbush, MN".
It's not in the water, it's in the people. They are very strong people in all the right ways one could measure strength.
It is clear to me, that this strong community does as we used to say in the Marines. They "police their own". Not many here stray from a specific blueprint of ethics, values and good old fashioned manners.
I haven't had to bait them along or prod them along with anything, this is just the way they are.
That's awesome Dave. I am guessing Amish? No matter, what they are accomplishing in such little time should be instilled in the next generation as a whole. WOW! what a work ethic. (you too)
Lol, no Clyde. Believe it or not they are not amish. They may work like amish, but they drink beer and wear Massy and John Deere baseball caps, blue jeans, pickup trucks, they swear when it's ok to do so, hunt, fish etc. Just really hard working country folks.
It would be cool to see the work crews in action...but considering how fast that structure is moving forward, I might have have been inspired to do that on my last property and might not have sold it and moved...
Dave, did you promise them boys some gold coins or something as a bonus for finishing quick like? They, and you are moving right along.
Clyde
Forum member "white bear" can attest to the following.
These men are from a specific community in Northern MN that happens to hold high consistency in work ethics and old world noble values. I do mean the best I have ever observed from one specific area, ever.
I've been a lot of places in the world and it has not gone unnoticed by me, the phenomenon that I associate with a town called "Greenbush, MN".
It's not in the water, it's in the people. They are very strong people in all the right ways one could measure strength.
It is clear to me, that this strong community does as we used to say in the Marines. They "police their own". Not many here stray from a specific blueprint of ethics, values and good old fashioned manners.
I haven't had to bait them along or prod them along with anything, this is just the way they are.
These are a very very good bunch of guys. A lot of good contractors come from this area. Some others from surrounding areas as well. I can take a little credit for the very locals & I thank you for your comments. Minnesota nice rings very true in this area just don't toss out "wanna wrassle" unless you have a lunch packed & your shoes tied very tight. You probably won't need the lunch. Hard working buggers they are.
Shop is looking very good & I'll have to make a trip over there very soon for a celebratory brew or water or whatever.
My little buddy Joey and I spent the day putting tools and equipment together yesterday. All this stuff that's taking up room in the house garage has to move out to the new shop.
Here's a neat attachment for my spot welder, a set of pinch weld tongs.
Safety cabinet for flamible liquids, this is where my paints, primers and solvents will go.
We're going to pick up a new rollaway (tool cabinet and chest) for hand tools today, also some cabinets and shelving.
The last gig worked so well, he's a new business plan...
Dave should do some research, find all the "1st vehicles" for a given group of Millionaires who are also car enthusiasts...
Track down those vehicles, purchase them, restore em and then offer them back, in factory new condition,....for a generous restoration fee, of course...
The building starts tomorrow (as in walls and such)
I'm placing a large (by my standards) order today for things like my 2 post hoist, tons of shop tools ranging from lenco panel spotter with a couple handy attachments to old school drum brake tools. It's a good list, ball joint service set, coil spring compressor kit, torque wrench, big industrial shop vac, a bunch of new hutchins sanders, flammable storage cabinet, a big media blast cabinet, 25 ton press, shop vice, drill press, bench grinder, go-jack wheel dolly set, body panel work stands, drill bit sets, deep vice grip clamps, various pullers... blah, blah, blah, so on and so forth... my head is spinning... lol!
Now wtf am I going to do? I wont have any excuses for not being able to get anything done any more!
We're going to pick up a new rollaway (tool cabinet and chest) for hand tools today, also some cabinets and shelving.
What are you going to get? KRL? Epiq?
KRL?
Originally Posted by KDK
Originally Posted by northern_dave
Alright Tom, that's the way I'll do it then.
The building starts tomorrow (as in walls and such)
I'm placing a large (by my standards) order today for things like my 2 post hoist, tons of shop tools ranging from lenco panel spotter with a couple handy attachments to old school drum brake tools. It's a good list, ball joint service set, coil spring compressor kit, torque wrench, big industrial shop vac, a bunch of new hutchins sanders, flammable storage cabinet, a big media blast cabinet, 25 ton press, shop vice, drill press, bench grinder, go-jack wheel dolly set, body panel work stands, drill bit sets, deep vice grip clamps, various pullers... blah, blah, blah, so on and so forth... my head is spinning... lol!
Now wtf am I going to do? I wont have any excuses for not being able to get anything done any more!
LMAO!
Which one did you get? OTC? Snap On?
I wanted OTC but I went with the heaviest ATD offering I could find.
It's so much all at once, all this stuff. I had to cut some corners here & there.
We're going to pick up a new rollaway (tool cabinet and chest) for hand tools today, also some cabinets and shelving.
What are you going to get? KRL? Epiq?
Oh I got ya now, "KLR" = Snap-On.
That's a negative ghost rider.
We're on a budget here, lol.
We were loaded down yesterday, but there was no fancy stuff in the truck. We did the best we could with the budget we set for this stuff.
There's a 36" tool cabinet and upper chest, a pair of 3 drawer base cabinets on casters for under a work bench, 16' of 30" deep racking/shelving, a couple of wall cabinets and a wall locker/cabinet.
There's some other junk mixed in there, couple air hoses, welding gloves, wire brush cups for grinders.... blah, blah, blah...
I'm happy with the stuff we got. The tool box isn't high end but they use this brand at my family's old service station back home. Those drawers open many times a day every day and the box is doing great.
Get whatever tools that will do the job. Not everything has to be snap-on if that quality & price isn't needed. There are some good brands close to you with lifetime guarantee so theye are easy to replace if needed.
That being said.... I'm tearing down a final drive on a D65 Komatsu dozer (45,000# dozer). I had to block it up 6-8", remove the blade, tracks & both track frames. Some of those big bolts were stubborn. After many cycles of heat & beat then pulling with a 4' cheater pipe, I decided that something was going to give & it wasn't going to be me. I grabbed an old Wright brand 3/4" breaker bar & a 7' sch 40 pipe. I sat down on my butt & pulled with all 6'2", 240# of me. The bolts finally came. I still am amazed that the wrenches held up. It's still straight but had to be very close to failure.
Good tools are priceless when needed but are just waste of capital when regular will do.
We all know how well you think out every step ND & there is no doubt that you made the correct choices.
Are you in there fulltime yet? When should I come visit?
My brother is up with a crew doing some paved roads and parking lots in the area, he's stripping off gravel from a parking lot in town and needs someplace to dump it. We figger it would be ok to dump it around this here building....
Other than that, nothing new really, I put together a few of my shop cabinets. I have a couple more to go.
I do like these cabinets, this is the Menards store house brand.
The 2 base cabinets will go under a work bench and the 3 door unit is a wall cabinet, I have another just like it to assemble yet, plus a 48" wide wall locker style that matches these. Now that I have them home and have been able to check them out, I'll likely get more of these. I couldn't really tell if they were of decent quality and construction in the store.
Did you seal the concrete inside or are you going to do a nice epoxy for the shop? Paint? hows the insulation coming? beer fridge plugged in? should maybe do a custom painted beer fridge for the shop as well. Find one of them old style good fridges and paint it all up.
Actually the coffee pot will have priority over beer fridge.
I'm sure we'll put a fridge out there but I'm not gonna fill it with beer just yet. We have a ton of work to do, I'm behind on projects I haven't been able to start yet because of the building delays.
One thing to consider is look at the slides and rollers on the new tool cabinets and grease them if needed. Some tool cabinets aren't properly lubed and will wear over time.
It looks like your shop is coming along nicely. Good job.
Actually the coffee pot will have priority over beer fridge.
I'm sure we'll put a fridge out there but I'm not gonna fill it with beer just yet. We have a ton of work to do, I'm behind on projects I haven't been able to start yet because of the building delays.
When the time comes, remember we have a mutual friend that restores old fridges to look like the antique gas pumps
Would be a perfect addition to all that fancy shtuff youse got
Gotta ship your work crew North, I'm in need of someone that works faster than my GC's crews. Got building permit June 26th, they finally finished the foundation last Friday and the framing crew hasn't showed up yet. Was hoping to move in by Christmas, didn't think I'd have to specify what year
Nice. Looking forward to hearing about the ease, or not, of the install. Also, what you did from a foundation perspective where the lift will go?
Ed, in the ground prep stages I had determined hoist foot locations and I dug a pair of shallow footings to give the hoist a little heavier/stronger place to be anchored.
This way I know I wont hit any pex tubing and I can have better confidence in the install of the hoist.
Looks good, as expected. The foundation drawings for my house specifically call out deeper sections in the slab for a lift in one of the bays. I just don't know if it was built to the drawing. My skepticism from my projects in oil and gas where we do not get what we designed and bought... Been trying to chase down the original owner to confirm.
dave, i think off to the right side of the building make sure you leave enough room to put up a holding/hiding fence for future projects too. be Nice not to have to see if you can. a nice vinyl fence would be really nice. Keep up the great work, maybe see it when i get back.
That is exactly what we are doing, along the right side as you drive up to the building I will have a gravel lot behind the trees. That's where we'll hide the projects waiting in line.
Now I just need some electricity and a couple gallons of juice.
It went together really nice, I ended up with a symmetric configuration, the asymmetric column location would have been an issue with my overhead garage door rails.
I think if the oil and gas industry hired hands that read the text in the drawings, we'd be much closer to delivering what the engineers designed
In my experience the hired hands are directed by their project management to do the minimum and see what they can get away with. Our QA teams have grown by leaps and bounds because of this.
looking great dave? are you putting in an attic door in the ceiling? keep it up. cant wait to get back and see it. have to go for a drive that way one day.
Dave, looks like you have an awesome build going on, and seeing your prior work, yer going to be as busy as two hookers fighting over 10 dollars on nickel night.
This is looking towards the tear down room or hoist room. I am enclosing this room because bad chit is going to happen in there. Smoke and dirt, fire and sparks... Everything that happens in that area is going to make a hell of a mess. So I'm making it a separate sealed stall, to keep the mess out of the rest of the shop.
This is looking towards the office/bathroom/utilities area.
this is looking towards one of the front overheads, I have already assembled the 16' of racking/shelving along that far wall.
These interior walls are being sheeted today. We actually started moving stuff into the shop last night.
Kamerad Les Ypu are alive after all. Good to see your smiling face. They let you have your keyboard for a little while??? Cheers Don about as frequently as Hounsgirl!!PS lately you been around
This is looking towards the tear down room or hoist room. I am enclosing this room because bad chit is going to happen in there. Smoke and dirt, fire and sparks... Everything that happens in that area is going to make a hell of a mess. So I'm making it a separate sealed stall, to keep the mess out of the rest of the shop.
This is looking towards the office/bathroom/utilities area. I am enclosing this room because bad chit is going to happen in there. Smoke and dirt, fire and sparks... Everything that happens in that area is going to make a hell of a mess. So I'm making it a separate sealed stall, to keep the mess out of the rest of the shop.
this is looking towards one of the front overheads, I have already assembled the 16' of racking/shelving along that far wall.
These interior walls are being sheeted today. We actually started moving stuff into the shop last night.
well, yes, some bad things may happen in the bathroom as well... so we're putting a good door on that little room, possibly an exhaust fan too.
lol
The exhaust fan is not an option! What with all the ORBIT BEER and the Hard Boiled Eggs after hours it's a must, it had better be an Industrial Grade Fan, not one of those cheap household grade ones.
[quote=northern_dave]well, yes, some bad things may happen in the bathroom as well... so we're putting a good door on that little room, possibly an exhaust fan too.
lol
POSSIBLY? That should have been up before the lift.
The exhaust fan is not an option! What with all the ORBIT BEER and the Hard Boiled Eggs after hours it's a must, it had better be an Industrial Grade Fan, not one of those cheap household grade ones.
I remember the first time I saw the big ass fan guys set up at a trade show. Pretty funny.
Actually, a couple of years ago I went to a show and they had William Perry (the fridge) signing autographs and taking pictures with people at their boot.
If I remember right, he wasn't doing very well. I think he may have been in a wheel chair or on a scooter of some sort.
where did you find a booth like that dave, shops filling up for sure now. you should maybe paint a roadrunner mural on that booth, get some color in the shop!
Thanks man, we're trenching power today, I could have juice in my hoist room by the end of the day. Which means I could start on this old whiskey runner as soon as tomorrow.
Beautiful.. Something I never thought to ask before, and haven't really seen in the various threads - ND are you going to mainly work/specialize in restoring those beauties from the '60s/'70s? Or work on anything/everything?
why you holding back just for power dave, you didnt have a hoist for your previous great builds....you young feller. cant wait to see the progress on this one. Take Care. Whens hunting?
Beautiful.. Something I never thought to ask before, and haven't really seen in the various threads - ND are you going to mainly work/specialize in restoring those beauties from the '60s/'70s? Or work on anything/everything?
Classics only.
I consider the cut off around 1970. But I could be talked into some post 70 stuff like pickup trucks. But I've gotta draw the line at 79.
No Liquor cabinet. No beer kegeraror. Not even a refrigerator... Dave... Come on now... Remember Animal House? What happened when Bluto found out they took the bar?
Thanks man, we're trenching power today, I could have juice in my hoist room by the end of the day. Which means I could start on this old whiskey runner as soon as tomorrow.
I found this old horse shoe on the building site when we were moving dirt, looks to be an old hand made blacksmith shoe. I hung it over my office door for luck.
How do you cut those big repair panels so they fit so perfectly, that's amazing to me. I have to replace the rusted out bottoms of both front fenders on my "68 El Camino and I'm worried about screwing them up.
A little experience and decent tools make it pretty easy.
The cutting on this one was a combination of plasma torch, Milwaukee 3 tooth nibbler and cut off wheel on grinder.
I step flanged the top seam and hid the cut right on the top bend. You cant tell it's had a new panel from inside the trunk, and you'll never know from the outside once it's done.
A little experience and decent tools make it pretty easy.
The cutting on this one was a combination of plasma torch, Milwaukee 3 tooth nibbler and cut off wheel on grinder.
I step flanged the top seam and hid the cut right on the top bend. You cant tell it's had a new panel from inside the trunk, and you'll never know from the outside once it's done.
Next time I get up to Manitoba, I'm bringing an armful of stainless rifles along with a couple of boxes of beer and we're gonna put that blasting cabinet to good use.
Its a z code 390, as far as I know its all stock. I haven't done a compression test yet, but it runs nice. Unless the compression test shows crappy results, I don't plan on even cracking the engine open.
Its a z code 390, as far as I know its all stock. I haven't done a compression test yet, but it runs nice. Unless the compression test shows crappy results, I don't plan on even cracking the engine open.
Really? It seems like after this much time has elapsed it would be a good idea to thoroughly go through and clean everything up even if no parts wind up being changed.
Besides, with a few modern parts it could idle as smooth as stock yet make more power and use less gas all at the same time.
Its a z code 390, as far as I know its all stock. I haven't done a compression test yet, but it runs nice. Unless the compression test shows crappy results, I don't plan on even cracking the engine open.
Really? It seems like after this much time has elapsed it would be a good idea to thoroughly go through and clean everything up even if no parts wind up being changed.
Besides, with a few modern parts it could idle as smooth as stock yet make more power and use less gas all at the same time.
Those old Ford big blocks can be made to run hard! Why, back in the day (1960) some factory 352's were sporting 360 hp. Later, 390's, 406's and 427's weren't slouches either.
Those old Ford big blocks can be made to run hard! Why, back in the day (1960) some factory 352's were sporting 360 hp. Later, 390's, 406's and 427's weren't slouches either.
Here's a 598, yes 598, that would make that car scoot:
Those old Ford big blocks can be made to run hard! Why, back in the day (1960) some factory 352's were sporting 360 hp. Later, 390's, 406's and 427's weren't slouches either.
Damn nice. Wish we were closer... have an old 51 Dodge Truck of Gramps that deserves to be worked on, and driven... instead of being in the shed all these years...
The road runner looks great. Its down in Iowa with it new/old owner and they have been attending lots of shows and bringing home trophies. They are very proud of the car, they send m photos from different shows from time to time.
How is the whisky runner coming along? Pics? Update?
I've been working on the paint booth all week, previous to that I had a week off for an elk hunt.
The exhaust ducting and fans is what I have been working on this week. Honestly its 2 or 3 man work (which I don't have), heavy stuff, awkward, suspend from ceiling, fitting 24" ducting. I've been up and down the ladder a thousand times since Monday morning, done some really sick spiderman like moves, hanging by a leg or arm while running sheet metal screws with cordless drill. Not a fun week so far. But I have it all installed now. Thank god, now I just need to put a couple ceiling panels back on the booth, run some more anchor bolts etc and I can get back to work on the 64 galaxie.
Well when we win the lotto down here,i told the wife that i was going to hire one of my buds to truck the 71 landcrusier,68 mustang and i might drive the 63 chevy truck up there. Just so you could stay busy.
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or Dreamworks Automotive. Or PShaw Autoworks![[Linked Image]](http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_9613_zpsa8de0a9f.jpg)
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