I have a few projects going at the house. I just finished putting in tongue and groove bead board in the kitchen area and used latex caulk.

I am now remodeling the downstairs 1/2 bath with bead board. Pulled out the pedestal sink and next comes the toilet.

Do I need a special "plumbers caulk or bathroom caulk" when I install a new pedestal sink? On the toilet base too? It seems like the caulk that I cut to get the sink out and the base of the toilet was pretty tough stuff. Wondering if it was a different kind of caulk other than standard latex caulk that I used on the bead boards.

I would use 100% silicon caulk on the sink.....No need to use caulk on the toilet base.

I've never caulked a toilet base either, don't see it as a positive thing if when the wax seal starts to go.

Though I guess you could caulk around the front of it and leave the rear uncaulked if you feel you must caulk.

Plumbing code here requires all fixtures to be caulked to the adjoining surface including toilet bases to the floor. I never liked the idea of completely sealing the toilet to the floor either just in case a wax seal fails, so I compromise with the inspectors and caulk all but the back of the toilet so that a failed seal will show up before the crapper falls through the rotted floor.

Personally, I think the best reason to caulk a toilet to the floor is that it keeps the inevitable dribbles from seeping under the floor and creating a stink. Makes for cleaning up around the toilet a lot easier, too.

Caulking a toilet base can cause you grief later. If you get a leak around the wax ring, the water will be trapped underneath and will rot out the floor. If you leave it without caulk, water can escape so you can see it. You can't fix what you don't know about. I've rebuilt 2 rotted bathroom floors caused by caulked toilets.

our state plumbing code requires caulking the toilet base for sanitary reasons.

I disagree with that rule totally.

I understand the theory, but folks are WAY to worried about sanitary sewage for some reason... I could see it in public buildings. I cna't see it residential at all.

FWIW almost all the plumbers here just run the silicone as mentioned. Both sink and water closet if they desire.

I just sit down to Pee....Problem solved.

Sakoluvr,

You may want to take a look at the closed cell polyurethane foam toilet seals that are available now. They used to be hard to find, but I think Home Depot has them now. I used them on the last two toilets I installed, and liked them. That was about 2 years ago, so I don't have a long track record with them.

Chris

Caulk around the front of a toilet keeps it from shifting without tightening the bolts down tight enough to crack the porcelain. Mildew resistant caulk is good around a sink or other damp area.

Always remember the 3 most important things when caulking.

Silicone, silicone, and silicone.

Are they similar to the foam gaskets used with RV toilets?

And here I really thought it was NP1, NP1 and NP1

NP1 is great stuff. Not for interior though. mtmuley

For cosmetic caulking, I usually soak the silicone tube in hot water for several minutes. Then, the silicone comes out really smoothly and forms nicely when you form it.

Steve

The idea behind caulking the base is that water when cleaning/mopping don't get under there....but then again if the seal should go the leak from the inside will get ...do what I do on the homes I build...caulk all the way around ..leaving a inch or two dead center in the back! Code guy never looks there ! And u get piece of mine...double the 1st reinforced wax ring with a toper of a PLAIN wax ring

Thats the first place I look at a water closet when I inspect, IF its got any caulk to start with.

Not that I care. But its fun seeing who does it what way.

Some of these rules are just about silly.

Same way I do wax rings at home, I actually use the thin wax only to fill in voids first, then seat a ring, and then ad a thin one on top, wax only.