Motorcycles - miles and oil (no Trump info inside)

All -

Wondering what you guys are running in your v-twins for oil in all 3 holes? I know a lot run the Syn3 from HD as it's 1 oil for all 3 needs but I generally believe that this isn't a good idea. Probably decent but not great in each application. I don't mind having 3 oils on hand if it means longer life of the bike.

Been hearing a lot of good things about Redline from HD riders - anyone here?

I have used Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin oil in mine since 5000 miles, in primary, trans and engine

Originally Posted by toad

I have used Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin oil in mine since 5000 miles, in primary, trans and engine

I assume no issues...

Anything that had you going Mobil 1 over something else?

I'm running syn3, over 40k on my 2009 Fatboy, runs a little cooler after switching, everything works great.

45K miles and no issues.

I read a series in American Iron magazine where they sent samples of the most popular V-Twin oils in to an independent laboratory, and Mobil 1 performed best in the tests they had done. I don't remember the specifics, but it was a pretty detailed series of articles.

this was ten years or longer ago, so things may have changed, but I've used nothing but Mobil 1 in my bike since.

MOBIL 1 is probably the best. For a non-syn Shell Rotella hands down.

I'm thinking of going and staying syn - mostly to lower temps and for the generally better wear properties.

I want this motor to stay together a long time. Stock basically - at most will be intake/exhaust and appropriate tune for them.

05 88 twinkie had 35000 and I ran syn from the getgo.
09 Roadie has 22000 same same .
no issues
none.

dave

I bought a Fat Bob - 2013 TC, 103 inch with 4300 miles on it.

So I have a chance to affect the majority of its life, mechanically.

Big investment for me so I wanted to get it right. Was it a new Peterbilt - I'd be ok, I know that. Or pick up etc.

Never had to keep an air cooled motor alive like this one.

Thanks for the help.

The HD v twin is pretty much automotive like these days.
At idle they jump around alot but at speed, there smooth as can be.
4300 miles is nothing.Nothing at all.Change out the oil at 5000 and ride it like you stole it.
The newer ones have alot of chi-com plastic chit on them that tends to crack. ie seat pans.
H-D seats are total crap.
Buy your self a comfortable seat Russel daylong,saddleman,mustang...
Enjoy..

dave

I never got to crank on a 103. Bikes been in the family since my great uncle bought his first HD in the 30's. Dad got his when he was 13 or something.

Been on em, around em etc but this is the first one with my name on my title.

Currently my mother is the only other with a bike, dad having sold his Bonneville a couple of years ago but she's the type to have the dealer do all the service so I come to the collective wisdom of the 'fire.

Appreciate it.

Went in looking to see what I'd be able to afford - walked out with this - Tax/Title/License and bike for the price of a new Sportster. Did okay I think.

[Linked Image]

Some people don't like the twin headlamps but I have a pic from the HD museum of a 29 with the same exact set up - same size, everything. It's been around a long time.

I wonder why the Soft tail engines are balanced and not for the other models?

HD is still quite a bit about image and history. People want some bikes that still shake a little bit but smooth out later at speed.

Heck - a new bike's mirrors are actually usable with the bike running.

Nice looking bike, teal. Put a capful of Amzoil 2-cycle oil in the gas tank every other tank. This coming from my Harley mechanic (now retired) that works on my bike.

Thanks - the color is growing on me. I'm more of a flat black and no chrome kind of guy but I couldn't pass up the deal. Originally was looking at a 2011 - same bike but brighter orange - sales manager mentioned this one, determined it was worth the extra 500 bucks to go from 2011 to 2013 and get the bigger motor and the extras like the pillion back rest, pipes and luggage rack.

Use Mobil 1 in both my 1998 DWG and 1996 Triumph 1200 Trophy. Both still running great with no problems.

My riding buddie is a fatboy type of guy.He has two, a 1992 and a 2013 with the 103 that he turned into a bagger.Flat black with lots of goodies.
He loves it.
The one thing about the bigger engines is that they crank out more heat.On a fatboy your sitting on the oil tank.On hot days he got a hot butt.
He added a cooler/radiator that fits between the frame rails on the under side of the bike.You cant even see it.
It should help and this summer will tell the tale.

Thats a great looking bike you got there.

Im a Road Glide kind of guy.
Once I got a real seat on it.
You can go all day.
I like my bags, cruz controll, tunes, and butt comfort.

dave

Originally Posted by whelennut

I wonder why the Soft tail engines are balanced and not for the other models?

Soft tail engines are rigid-mounted to frame for traditional appearance, so balanced to cut vibration. All other models use vibration-damping rubber(? or some elastomer) bushings between engine and frame.

Originally Posted by teal

All -

Wondering what you guys are running in your v-twins for oil in all 3 holes? I know a lot run the Syn3 from HD as it's 1 oil for all 3 needs but I generally believe that this isn't a good idea. Probably decent but not great in each application. I don't mind having 3 oils on hand if it means longer life of the bike.

Been hearing a lot of good things about Redline from HD riders - anyone here?

I've run the HD Synthetic in all the bikes since '05.. Why do you believe it's "not a good idea"??

I like the fact that it behaves the same whether the temps 33F or 103F. Never had a single engine issue using that product - ever..

I think syn is a good idea but I don't think the same exact oil in all 3 is a good idea.

One right tool for each specific task kind of thing.

I get some people/dealers don't want to stock 3 separate oils and having one oil that's okay across the board for each makes sense from that perspective.

Engine, primary and particularly the trans all require different things from an oil - I just don't think that it's likely HD has someone whipping up a blend that covers each as well as a purpose specific oil would in each area.

I'm sure it's "ok" for the most part - just that I'd rather go the extra step and do whats best for each.

Poking around the net more - seems like the Mobil 1 products for engine and primary with Redline for trans are highly touted.

Service manager at the dealer is an outstanding wrench - I'm going to ask him tomorrow. Heck his father in law has the world's fastest panhead and is a 5 time national champion. His wife races nitro bikes as well.

I asked Ray Price the same thing once, he chuckles and says if was a jap bike they would all be in the same case and you don't hear about reliability problems Gold Wings.

Originally Posted by SEdge

I asked Ray Price the same thing once, he chuckles and says if was a jap bike they would all be in the same case and you don't hear about reliability problems Gold Wings.

Yamaha's replacing a chit ton of trannies on their R1's right now....

In my juiced up SG & a bone stock RKC, I've used either Amsoil or Mobil One in the engines.....I can't see any difference. Change at 2.5 - 3K.

Redline syn primary lube & Redline syn transmission lube.

The Redline makes for noticably smoother shifting with less clunk, period, end of story.

Change the primary & transmission at 5K; safe intervals.

MM

Originally Posted by teal

Originally Posted by SEdge

I asked Ray Price the same thing once, he chuckles and says if was a jap bike they would all be in the same case and you don't hear about reliability problems Gold Wings.

Yamaha's replacing a chit ton of trannies on their R1's right now....

R-1s aren't a long range machine and everyone builds a problem now and then. I would trust what Ray Price says any day. Google his name.

http://www.newsobserver.com/news/local/counties/wake-county/article50204745.html

Not discounting his expertise - simply stating that Yamaha - a jap bike is having trans issues.

I use Mobile#1 10W40 car oil.Motorcycle branded oil is all hype.

Nice bike Teal! My current H-D is a '09 FLTR(along with a F800GS, and DR-Z400S for the gravel/dirt). Been riding one Harley or another, for going on 25+ years. I tried the Syn3 in all 3 for a time, and it works fine. Nowadays, oil is at such a high level of performance, that as long as you change it at regular intervals, I don't think it makes a rats ass difference what you run, as long as it meets the manufactures suggested rating. That said, I now run Syn3(or another high quality equivalent) in the crankcase, and Formula+ in the tranny and primary. Mainly because the shifting just feels better with Formula+ over Syn3. JMO. Keep the rubber side down, and enjoy that bike!

Jeff

Thanks - what I like about it is there just isn't a huge fat bob following in my area. EVERYONE rides either a Road King or a Street Glide. Occasional sportster thrown in.

I'm not of the opinion that an XL is a chick's bike - I rather like them but still - the FB isn't uber popular up here so at the least, mine will be easy to find in the parking lot.

Am giving some thought to upgrading the lights to Daymakers. My commute is 40 miles one way to work. Straight farm country so a lot of coons and skunks on the road.

http://motolight.com/
off

on

dave

Originally Posted by Huntz

I use Mobile#1 10W40 car oil.Motorcycle branded oil is all hype.

not really. the motorcycle oil is formulated to work with wet clutches. friction modifiers in automotive oils can ruin a clutch. SHORT VERSION

and a glory shot of mine

[Linked Image]

Originally Posted by teal

I never got to crank on a 103. Bikes been in the family since my great uncle bought his first HD in the 30's. Dad got his when he was 13 or something.

Been on em, around em etc but this is the first one with my name on my title.

Currently my mother is the only other with a bike, dad having sold his Bonneville a couple of years ago but she's the type to have the dealer do all the service so I come to the collective wisdom of the 'fire.

Appreciate it. I had one of those in vivid black, an '08 the first year they came out. If engine heat is a problem get rid of the factory exhaust. I put slip on's on mine and it cooled it off quite a bit. Rode it from Pa. to Mo. in the summer of '08. I sold it because of my job. Too many hours and not enough time for riding. I really like the color of yours.

Went in looking to see what I'd be able to afford - walked out with this - Tax/Title/License and bike for the price of a new Sportster. Did okay I think.

[Linked Image]

Some people don't like the twin headlamps but I have a pic from the HD museum of a 29 with the same exact set up - same size, everything. It's been around a long time.

Dave - I might have to look at something like those moto's.

The FB's headlight arrangement doesn't make it easy to find aftermarket light kits without going MoCo and the MoCo likes their $$.

The daymakers seem to be real impressive.

[video:youtube]Q71KiTB9Ax8[/video]

If your bike has a separate resivour for the transmission then I would run a oil like redline made for motorcycle transmissions. As for the engine run whatever makes you feel good as long as the weight isnt to thin. I run synthetic rotella in my bike but it's a single cylinder enduro and it's water cooled. For an air cooled motor I'd say thicker oil like a 20w50. The motorcycle oil is hype to a degree, if you don't have a wet clutch run whatever you want if you have a wet clutch run rotella, it's cheaper than bike oil, doesn't have friction modifiers and even has a bike certification on the jug. Even car oils don't have friction modifiers in heavier weights, but they don't have as much zinc and phosphorus which won't matter much either if the motor has already been broke in.

Mobile 1 makes a 15w50 that has a high zinc and phosphorus level with no friction modifiers that comes in a 5 quart jug that is great for bikes. I guarantee it's cheaper than harley oil and just as good and is way more widely available.

H-D stuff is always expensive.
The motolights are expensive too.
They come in two wattages,the lower wattage is better for lighting up the sides of the road at night.The brighter 55 watt is for being seen in daylight.Seem backwards.Mine are the 55 watters..But it gives you a triangle of light,high and low that texting 20 year old chicks seen to notice alittle more.
Can never have enough light on the front of your bike....

dave

Originally Posted by seal_billy

If your bike has a separate resivour for the transmission then I would run a oil like redline made for motorcycle transmissions. As for the engine run whatever makes you feel good as long as the weight isnt to thin. I run synthetic rotella in my bike but it's a single cylinder enduro and it's water cooled. For an air cooled motor I'd say thicker oil like a 20w50. The motorcycle oil is hype to a degree, if you don't have a wet clutch run whatever you want if you have a wet clutch run rotella, it's cheaper than bike oil, doesn't have friction modifiers and even has a bike certification on the jug. Even car oils don't have friction modifiers in heavier weights, but they don't have as much zinc and phosphorus which won't matter much either if the motor has already been broke in.

Mobile 1 makes a 15w50 that has a high zinc and phosphorus level with no friction modifiers that comes in a 5 quart jug that is great for bikes. I guarantee it's cheaper than harley oil and just as good and is way more widely available.

^^^^^
Sound advice as far as cycle oil goes imo.

Teal, that is a good lookin scooter. I really like that color.

Just a couple miles shy of 80,000 miles on my 86 Yamaha Venture running Rotella T, not a lick of problems. Still runs strong.

AmsOil or Redline, mostly Amsoil.