What should I know about them that the new 1911 owner probably doesn't?
First thing you need to know is that every used 1911 must be thoroughly checked out by a competent, highly trained specialist before you can get your mitts on it.
I currently provide such a service free for members of this board. Just send it on out to me and I'll put it through its paces for a few years for you, will let you know as soon as I'm sure its OK to use.
Anyone care to add - where to lube, with how much, of what lubricant? Seems I read an article, years back, making it simple.
The rails, mainly. Also the groves in the interior of the slide where the barrel locks into. Also the forward area of the barrel. Any place where steel moves against steel. Just a little drop here and there. No need to over do it.
It's there. Trust me... That frame was once the lower half of a basic Colt 1911 that Aaron Hogue (yes the grip guy) bought for me in 1983 at cost via his FFL. We did pin shoots together then whilst I was in college in SLO.
Would just add, don't over-analyze it or think it needs modification.Just shoot it - you'll likely be hooked. And please update on how you like the grip, have been curious abou those double stack 1911's, never held one before.
Would just add, don't over-analyze it or think it needs modification.Just shoot it - you'll likely be hooked. And please update on how you like the grip, have been curious abou those double stack 1911's, never held one before.
Google "idiot scratch" and figure out how to avoid it ASAP- before stripping it. Outside of that, should be G2G.
OMG, they are tools.... gonna get scratches if you use em... geez...
YMMV. LOL
I'm not afraid to use any member of my 1911 clan, and wear will eventually show. BUT the "idiot scratch" is 100% avoidable, is located where it won't wear off from normal use inside 50yrs, and broadcasts to the world that an idiot tried to reassemble his pistol.
I have one, and it is pretty nice. I actually like the short fat grip. Pretty light compared to a standard 5 inch steel 1911A1. It was my dog walking pistol for years, but it have been replace by a SW360. The SW is even lighter to carry.
First I want to say thank you to everyone who was so kinds as to help me with my new addition. This is perhaps the best $390 I've ever spent on a firearm.
It's smooth to draw, has a great natural point of aim, and functioned flawlessly. I wasn't shooting anything fancy, just some Winchester white box 230gr hardball, but for such a large projectile the recoil was very managable, and in some instances double taps produces a single hole. I've never been able to do that with my Sig 228.
At this point I'm sure it shoots better than I do (I've always been better with a rifle than a pistol), but that just gives me an excuse for more range time.
SandCritter:
As for the doublestack, I like the way it feels in my hand. Keep in mind, I'm used to the double stack 9's, but the sleek slide is where the 1911 really shines over the modern boxy, unnecessarily bulky double stack 9's. It fills you hand, but not your belt, so I think I'm going to like it.
This particular gun has a fixed front sight and a low profile fixed rear sight. Today it produces nice groups low and to the left, so I'm thinking an adjustable rear night sight might be in order. This will probably take the place of at least one of my current carry guns, so an adjustable low snag rear might be in order.
I considered it could be something like that, but my little fixed sight pocket pistol was shooting dead center, and it's a lot harder to shoot. Now I'm not saying I couldn't be contributing to the issue, but I think current sight alignment is at least a contributing factor.
I considered it could be something like that, but my little fixed sight pocket pistol was shooting dead center, and it's a lot harder to shoot. Now I'm not saying I couldn't be contributing to the issue, but I think current sight alignment is at least a contributing factor.
I think what Gibby might be saying to shoot the a bit and get use to it before you change anything. Take it out a couple more times before you decide.
Dont' worry, I'm not panicked. Since I have some empty brass now, I hope to pick up some dies and bullet for it tomorrow, along with some of the recommended titegroup, load ghat and the W231, and see what happens. Shooters Proshop has seconds of the 230gr JHP's, an I've had very good luck with their pistol bullets in my revolvers. It would be nice if the 1911 likes them as well.
In general, I do have a preference for adjustable night sights, so it's probably something I will explore.
This is perhaps the best $390 I've ever spent on a firearm.
$390 you say.
( Note to self: Envy is a sin Garry, envy is a sin.)
Yea, When I saw the price tag behind the hazy glass I figured it must be an rusted piece of junk. When it was pulled out of the glass I realized it was in near mint condition, and the fram was just parkerized, not blued. Owner said it belong to another one of his good customers who was going through an unpleasant divorce, so I figured it was my duty to help out another solid member of the shooting community the best way I could.
I wouldn't carry one for SD unless it was the only gun I ever carried and then only after a lot of practice.You don't want to forget the safety at a bad time.
They are heavy.
Good ones are expensive.
The trigger is the best feature.
They are the best looking pistol made.
The cool factor is off the charts with a really good one.
1911s are fun and cool...like that chick in the White Snake video thirty years ago.
Be advised: I shot my first 1911 over 30 years ago and [bleep] my first chick over 30 years ago...and she looked better than the Whitesnake broad. Thus far, I can still do both.
I use the Wilson shock buffs in a lot of my 1911's for practice. Especially the Delta Elite, .460 Rowlands and Lightweight Commanders . Using them and the lightest recoil springs that work in that gun is being nice to your prized piece. You do not need to hotrod your loads. No reason at all to do that.
Do not use the shock buffs in your CC guns. They can cause problems if they tear and jam things up. They are cheap and last longer than you would think. But inspect them every time you clean your gun.
After cleaning. I like Mil-Comm (NRA) TW25B on wear points or Tetra Grease on the slide/frame rail groves. Use very little Tetra. Dry moly can be used in dusty conditions. Then I wipe the gun down with Break Free Lubricant/Preservative. NOT Break Free CLP. Wipe it down a day later again with same.
I used to use RIG on the stainless guns, but the Tetra is better.
DO NOT let different lubricants get mixed up in the same spots.
After a periotic "Full Clean" that degreases the whole gun with Grip Panels off, I will use Spray Rem Oil inside the grip frame where all those little necessary parts reside. Shake out real well. Rem Oil has been proven to be a good protector for condensation type moisture.(bringing a cold gun into a warm place or body sweat).
But, there are a lot of good lubricant/protectants available as mentioned here in this thread already..
Any time I use grease on a firearm, like I do with my AR-15's, it's Mobil One synthetic bearing grease.
Any time you take these same grease's and put them in tiny packages for the gun people they charge a fortune. I bought 1 tub which will last beyond my lifetime for the same amount you would buy 1oz in a gun store. I load it in one of my syringes I took the needle off. The syringe is 3cc's and is still going after it's first loading two years now.
Tetra is so slick that in some mismatch's of recoil spring,loads, firing pin stop styles, slide mass and magazines springs that the slide velocity can be too fast to strip a round. A representative for Tetra told me that at a gun show. The gun has to be balanced mechanically .
But it works from -80F to over 400F. That is why I like it. So in all seasons, it has no effect on slide velocity.
Just do not use much. Just a little dab. A tube lasts a long time.
But in dusty conditions, like any other grease it accumulates filth. That is where you use Dry Moly. Great also for high pressure metallic contact areas. Tough stuff.
What should I know about them that the new 1911 owner probably doesn't?
First thing you need to know is that every used 1911 must be thoroughly checked out by a competent, highly trained specialist before you can get your mitts on it.
I currently provide such a service free for members of this board. Just send it on out to me and I'll put it through its paces for a few years for you, will let you know as soon as I'm sure its OK to use.
The 1911 is one of the all-time classic handguns! It is reliable and dependable, and it is brilliantly designed. Just compare it to the complexity of contemporary handguns of the early 20th century! But this is also one of its' shortcomings; any idiot can disassemble and modify it to the point of being unsafe. YES, have any used 1911 (especially if it shows unprofessional work) checked out by someone competent.
Competent is the key word there. I have used and studied and been around a lot of 1911's in my lifetime. There is a problem out there. A lot of gunsmiths think and say they can fix/modify your 1911. Do the research if you want the work done. In my area, there is not a single gunsmith I would use.
Another rule of thumb when buying a used 1911. If the feed ramp is all nice and polished, give it back to the salesman. That goes for a lot of other brands also. That maybe is why they are for sale as used. Somebody sold it for some reason. Life is too short.
Here's a good book on the 1911 by Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat. You can get it from them or other sources like Brownell's. It covers assembly/disassembly, lube, etc.
A have a new pound of W231 and Tightgroup, bullets, dies, and sized brass sitting on the loading table. Gun's all lubed and ready to got without a idiot scratch. With a little luck I may get a little more range time after work this week.
I will school you on the 1911. My buddy and were driving across Mexico in 1978, and we ran a roadblock. We got pulled over by a Mexican cop about a mile down the road. We were in a VW van and the cop had a Mustang so it wasn't much of a chase.
That cop did a bat-turn in front of us and aimed his headlights right at us, then he pointed his 1911 right at me, distance about 10 feet, and racked the slide. That pistol is allegedly .45 caliber but I swear, that hole in the barrel looks about 4 inches wide when it is aimed at your head.
Anyone care to add - where to lube, with how much, of what lubricant? Seems I read an article, years back, making it simple.
Lube the shiny spots!
1911's are great fun. They are kinda like a 30-06 in that you can always find a way to out-spec them with another gun, but in the end, if you needed a handgun and what you had was a good 1911 you'd be in good shape.
Just wanted to take a moment to say thank you to everyone for all the great advice, and provide you all with an update.
I'm also sending a special thanks to all who recommended Titegroup.
After a recent shootoff, the winner was 4.6gr of Titegroup behind a 230gr copperplated, round nose and S&B primers. It grouped well, and regulated much better then the Winchester factory shooting an inches high, and almost dead center at 25 yards.
I hoping the Nosler 230gr JHP's will show up on the Proshop soon. I suspect there's a good chance they will like Titegroup as well.
Sounds like you got a great pistol. try to keep the Dremel Tool away from the ramp and the barrel throat. Yes there are boatloads of goodies in the Brownells catalog you can add to your 1911 but try to resist modifying your pistol if it is functioning correctly.
Keep the pistol reasonably lubed as previously stated, on the rails, the barrel hood, the end of the barrel where it goes into the barrel bushing. I like Breakfree.
Your pretty much limited to just a few brands of magazines, I have never owned a double stack but with conventional single stack mags I like chip McCormick power mags and some of the Wilson mags. I also like the Trip research cobra mags. I'm sure some of the checkmate and metalform mags are ok. Magazines have a lot to do with any semi-auto especially a 1911. The heart of you 1911 beside the magazine is the extractor. it controls feeding and of course extraction. learning to tune one isn't rocket science but can be a little tricky.
Go to the 1911forum.com and sift through the B.S. there is a lot of good info there.
I use 231 and bullseye and mostly shoot 200 grain lead SWC bullets. I use carbide dies to avoid using lube and am a firm believer in the Lee factory crimp die to taper crimp the end of the case to about .469 and the overall loaded length between 1.25 and 1.26". take down your pistol and use your barrel as a gage the loaded rounds should drop right in and be flush with the barrel hood.
Good luck! I hope you can avoid the 1911 disease and don't end up with half dozen or so pistols!