20' long with links made from 3/8" diameter steel. Heavy hooks on both ends. Me and that 8N have an appointment with that big ugly ass bush growing in the back yard.
If you are pulling off the hitch arms, keep them low.
Lost a great uncle to a stump. The log he was pulling hit it, the tractor flipped.
Pulling things from the ground can get sporty.
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ If you're not already very knowledgeable about pulling heavy stuff with a tractor, please study up on it. I lost a very good friend who decided to skid logs with his tractor. He was a very smart guy, a fellow toolmaker, but he made one fatal mistake with his tractor in the woods.
That’s what pickup trucks are for. I’ve pulled out a veritable triple canopy jungle with my truck. Trees, rhododendrons and everything else has come out like buttah.
That chain by itself is a big load for that 8n. Save yourself and your tractor a lot of unnecessary anguish and don't try to pull a stump. Trust me on this.
That’s what pickup trucks are for. I’ve pulled out a veritable triple canopy jungle with my truck. Trees, rhododendrons and everything else has come out like buttah.
Yeah,..I'm using a drawbar,....and a 1/4" would probably be enough. But I don't like the idea of a link breaking and the chain popping me in the back of the head.
That’s what pickup trucks are for. I’ve pulled out a veritable triple canopy jungle with my truck. Trees, rhododendrons and everything else has come out like buttah.
Maybe so. But a decent 4WD pickup would cost about 5X what I paid for the 8N,...before you started making insurance payments on it and figuring in depreciation.
Maybe so. But a decent 4WD pickup would cost about 5X what I paid for the 8N,...before you started making insurance payments on it and figuring in depreciation.
Gotcha.
Figured you may already have a 4x4 P/U...
8N's are good tractors, but they tend to jump more than lug when hooked onto something like that root.
And, those saying to be careful so it doesn't tip over on you, that's another issue. Been more than one guy bought the farm doing such as that.
I never figured on trying to pull tree stumps with an 8N. It's going to pull honeysuckle bushes, some old clothesline poles,..and the big fun will be when I hook it up to that old chicken coup out back.
People make the mistake of pulling sideways instead of up on brush. An old landscaper trick is to get a car or truck tire rim, place it next to the base of the bush and put the chain over the rim to pull up. Otherwise you are pulling against the ground with no leverage.
People make the mistake of pulling sideways instead of up on brush. An old landscaper trick is to get a car or truck tire rim, place it next to the base of the bush and put the chain over the rim to pull up. Otherwise you are pulling against the ground with no leverage.
that sounds like a good trick. a round out of a tree might work too.
People make the mistake of pulling sideways instead of up on brush. An old landscaper trick is to get a car or truck tire rim, place it next to the base of the bush and put the chain over the rim to pull up. Otherwise you are pulling against the ground with no leverage.
Yep, if you need a 3/8" chain, you need a bigger tractor.
I have pulled a lot of things with a K5 4x4 Blazer or Dodge W250 that I could not budge with the 8N.
On the other hand, you will never damage a 3/8" chain with anything less than a semi tractor. Glad you are getting some good use out of the little tractor, and enjoying it. That is what they were built for.
Grandad took 80 acres out of sagebrush and converted it into an irrigated dairy farm in the late 40s he had one 8N with a loader and back blade permanently attached to clean cow pens. He had two more 8Ns which were used for plowing, discing, planting, corrugating, mowing, raking, baling, and hauling hay. The 8N does not have enough power to run a baler off the PTO, but a two cylinder Wisconsin on the baler covers the power issue, at least on the little balers we were using up through the early '80s..
those three little Fords served Grandad well as his only farm tractors up through the mid '80s when he gave up farming at age 80 plus.
A nylon recovery strap will move more stuff than a chain ever thought about. A chain doesn't have any "bounce" to it.
Mike
Great idea for yanking stuck trucks out of a mudhole. not so great for pulling stumps with a tractor. An elastic strap is a great way to catch a stump in the back of your head.
A nylon recovery strap will move more stuff than a chain ever thought about. A chain doesn't have any "bounce" to it.
Mike
I broke a 3" wide nylon tow strap pulling a bush smaller than this one. That's why I bought such a heavy chain,....makes me nervous when things start breaking during stuff like this.
My Dad was a heavy equipment operator. A 1" diameter steel cable let go and gave his lower leg a very nasty compound fracture back when I was about 14.
Yep, if you need a 3/8" chain, you need a bigger tractor.
I have pulled a lot of things with a K5 4x4 Blazer or Dodge W250 that I could not budge with the 8N.
On the other hand, you will never damage a 3/8" chain with anything less than a semi tractor. Glad you are getting some good use out of the little tractor, and enjoying it. That is what they were built for.
Grandad took 80 acres out of sagebrush and converted it into an irrigated dairy farm in the late 40s he had one 8N with a loader and back blade permanently attached to clean cow pens. He had two more 8Ns which were used for plowing, discing, planting, corrugating, mowing, raking, baling, and hauling hay. The 8N does not have enough power to run a baler off the PTO, but a two cylinder Wisconsin on the baler covers the power issue, at least on the little balers we were using up through the early '80s..
those three little Fords served Grandad well as his only farm tractors up through the mid '80s when he gave up farming at age 80 plus.
I've been waiting for the other shoe to drop ever since I bought it. But it's been running like a champ. It's got some little things to be done to it. The valve cover gaskets are dribbling oil. I suspect it's got those old cork gaskets. I'm going to replace them with some rubber gaskets. It wouldn't be much of a job but you have to take the manifold off to get to them.
Everything is real tight on it. The clutch will cause the tires to dig a hole in the ground and the brakes will lock the wheels up in gravel,....front end is tight and straight,..hardly any play in the steering.
That big ugly ass bush has been pulled and drug back to the brush pile. I'll take the chain saw back there later and cut it up into fire pit size pieces.
There's going to be a lot of clean up fires this fall.
The 8N does not have enough power to run a baler off the PTO,
What kind of baler?
Here's a guy running a little square baler off of an old Massie Harris 33 that he's powered with a 13 HP lawnmower motor with a centrifugal clutch. It starts at the 2:40 mark.
It depends on the load Jim. I broke a high strength 1/2 in two places once. Yup, two at once, it surprised me. I was pulling a mulberry tree by the roots with a Cat 944A loader.
Yep, if you need a 3/8" chain, you need a bigger tractor.
I have pulled a lot of things with a K5 4x4 Blazer or Dodge W250 that I could not budge with the 8N.
On the other hand, you will never damage a 3/8" chain with anything less than a semi tractor. Glad you are getting some good use out of the little tractor, and enjoying it. That is what they were built for.
Grandad took 80 acres out of sagebrush and converted it into an irrigated dairy farm in the late 40s he had one 8N with a loader and back blade permanently attached to clean cow pens. He had two more 8Ns which were used for plowing, discing, planting, corrugating, mowing, raking, baling, and hauling hay. The 8N does not have enough power to run a baler off the PTO, but a two cylinder Wisconsin on the baler covers the power issue, at least on the little balers we were using up through the early '80s..
those three little Fords served Grandad well as his only farm tractors up through the mid '80s when he gave up farming at age 80 plus.
I've been waiting for the other shoe to drop ever since I bought it. But it's been running like a champ. It's got some little things to be done to it. The valve cover gaskets are dribbling oil. I suspect it's got those old cork gaskets. I'm going to replace them with some rubber gaskets. It wouldn't be much of a job but you have to take the manifold off to get to them.
Everything is real tight on it. The clutch will cause the tires to dig a hole in the ground and the brakes will lock the wheels up in gravel,....front end is tight and straight,..hardly any play in the steering.
That big ugly ass bush has been pulled and drug back to the brush pile. I'll take the chain saw back there later and cut it up into fire pit size pieces.
There's going to be a lot of clean up fires this fall.
You reckon yer tractor will pull about a 10’ steel post. You might like running that over yer gravel drive fer smoothing it out.
Yep, if you need a 3/8" chain, you need a bigger tractor.
I have pulled a lot of things with a K5 4x4 Blazer or Dodge W250 that I could not budge with the 8N.
On the other hand, you will never damage a 3/8" chain with anything less than a semi tractor. Glad you are getting some good use out of the little tractor, and enjoying it. That is what they were built for.
Grandad took 80 acres out of sagebrush and converted it into an irrigated dairy farm in the late 40s he had one 8N with a loader and back blade permanently attached to clean cow pens. He had two more 8Ns which were used for plowing, discing, planting, corrugating, mowing, raking, baling, and hauling hay. The 8N does not have enough power to run a baler off the PTO, but a two cylinder Wisconsin on the baler covers the power issue, at least on the little balers we were using up through the early '80s..
those three little Fords served Grandad well as his only farm tractors up through the mid '80s when he gave up farming at age 80 plus.
I've been waiting for the other shoe to drop ever since I bought it. But it's been running like a champ. It's got some little things to be done to it. The valve cover gaskets are dribbling oil. I suspect it's got those old cork gaskets. I'm going to replace them with some rubber gaskets. It wouldn't be much of a job but you have to take the manifold off to get to them.
Everything is real tight on it. The clutch will cause the tires to dig a hole in the ground and the brakes will lock the wheels up in gravel,....front end is tight and straight,..hardly any play in the steering.
That big ugly ass bush has been pulled and drug back to the brush pile. I'll take the chain saw back there later and cut it up into fire pit size pieces.
There's going to be a lot of clean up fires this fall.
You reckon yer tractor will pull about a 10’ steel post. You might like running that over yer gravel drive fer smoothing it out.
I bought a grader blade at an estate auction for $85 a few days ago. I've got the driveway in pretty good shape.
Looks like my thread about a chain failed to set off the typical Saturday night pissin' match,..and I feel a bit guilty about it. I was too tired from crawling on the ground hooking chains to bushes to give the thread the attention it should deserve,...especially on Saturday Night.
So allow me to make an attempt to remedy that,....
*ahem*,........* cough-cough*
"ANYBODY WHO WOULD USE A 1/4" CHAIN TO PULL A BUSH WOULD SUCK A DICK!!"
3/8" is pretty much the standard for pulling chit with a tractor, within reason of course.
I like 5/16" for pickup type use, a little lighter which is nice if you're wallowing around in a mudhole or snowbank. You're gonna spin out before it ever breaks. Dry ground and the rules change!
Looks like my thread about a chain failed to set off the typical Saturday night pissin' match,..and I feel a bit guilty about it. I was too tired from crawling on the ground hooking chains to bushes to give the thread the attention it should deserve,...especially on Saturday Night.
So allow me to make an attempt to remedy that,....
*ahem*,........* cough-cough*
"ANYBODY WHO WOULD USE A 1/4" CHAIN TO PULL A BUSH WOULD SUCK A DICK!!"
okay,........next.
I Reckon Jeff Obama has about 1200 feet of it........
I don't know what kind of bush it is,...some kind of ornamental thing that was planted about 40 years ago and allowed to go wild. It had about 100 separate stalks pokin' up out of the ground. I just experimented until I found out how many the little tractor would yank up out of the ground,..then went about it like that.
Besides,....I don't want to leave the roots in the ground. Once I get that area cleared out I'm gonna till it up and have a garden there next year.
The 8N does not have enough power to run a baler off the PTO,
What kind of baler?
Here's a guy running a little square baler off of an old Massie Harris 33 that he's powered with a 13 HP lawnmower motor with a centrifugal clutch. It starts at the 2:40 mark.
John Deere 236, New Holland 66, International 46, Massy Ferguson 12, You can pull em on flat ground with 35 HP, but it's tough to run the baler and pull it up a decent hill at the same time with less than 45 HP.
People make the mistake of pulling sideways instead of up on brush. An old landscaper trick is to get a car or truck tire rim, place it next to the base of the bush and put the chain over the rim to pull up. Otherwise you are pulling against the ground with no leverage.
That is a trick I've used before but a large log works better with less friction.
People make the mistake of pulling sideways instead of up on brush. An old landscaper trick is to get a car or truck tire rim, place it next to the base of the bush and put the chain over the rim to pull up. Otherwise you are pulling against the ground with no leverage.
That is a trick I've used before but a large dog works better with less friction.
People make the mistake of pulling sideways instead of up on brush. An old landscaper trick is to get a car or truck tire rim, place it next to the base of the bush and put the chain over the rim to pull up. Otherwise you are pulling against the ground with no leverage.
That is a trick I've used before but a large dog works better with less friction.
That’s what pickup trucks are for. I’ve pulled out a veritable triple canopy jungle with my truck. Trees, rhododendrons and everything else has come out like buttah.
A good 4WD pickup will pull more than that 8N.
DF
I have pulled a lot of hedges and trees out with a snatch rope and my old Toyota 4Runner
Bristoe, you probably know this, but an 8N doesn't have a true drawbar, below the axel centerline. The three point arms will float up as the front end comes up. Maybe you can find a way to chain the front axel, and straddle the chain? Lots of youtube of 8N pulling gone bad. Don't die!
I want an 8N. It doesn't make sense, but I do. I want a small tractor my wife and daughter can run the hay rake with. I think I need something more modern, with better brakes, in these hills.
Kellory, I do like your log idea better than the tire rim. When I was pulling Yew bushes the rim tipped over over unless I got the chain or cable exactly centered and it dug into the ground more than a log would.
Kellory, I do like your log idea better than the tire rim. When I was pulling Yew bushes the rim tipped over over unless I got the chain or cable exactly centered and it dug into the ground more than a log would.
I don't own a tractor, but use come-a-longs to pull, or my truck. I've had to learn a few tricks. Glad I could help.
Being over rigged for a load is way better than being rated rigged for a load. I have rigged up chyt from 100 pds to 35 metric tons. Some Rube Goldberg Norwegian and Danish fabricated chyt that never been flown or landed by a crane on a oil rig.
If your chain is GTG, and it got the job done Roll with that shyt......
Bristoe, you probably know this, but an 8N doesn't have a true drawbar, below the axel centerline. The three point arms will float up as the front end comes up. Maybe you can find a way to chain the front axel, and straddle the chain? Lots of youtube of 8N pulling gone bad. Don't die!
I want an 8N. It doesn't make sense, but I do. I want a small tractor my wife and daughter can run the hay rake with. I think I need something more modern, with better brakes, in these hills.
I know it can happen, but the front end never offered to come up while I was pulling yesterday. I dug some pretty good ruts in the yard that I'm going to have to fill in later, however. I kept my foot on the clutch in the event that the front end started to climb. I suspect that one reason the 8N has a reputation for floating the front end is because many people replace the original 11.2 rear tires with the wider, larger diameter 12.4's.
As for brakes on an 8N, mine are in good shape. They'll cause the tires to slide if you stomp them.
Bristoe, there has been lots of good ideas and suggestions made already, so I wont add to them. My Dad was pulling up a small oak tree, about as big around as your thumb, with a jubilee. He did several things wrong, such as pulling uphill and raised the drawbar. When the front end came up, he stabbed at the clutch, but his foot slid off the pedal. Before he could try again the tractor was coming over backward. Some how he managed to crawl between the seat and steering wheel enough that it didn't crush him. Broke several bones and spent a week in the hospital, but he's still kicking. Just be careful.
All these tractor tipping over stories, chains snapping and recoiling makes me think that I am on the right track with my 3 ton chain fall. Slow and steady giving roots time to pull out or break off. Years ago I bought a Simpson gas powered capstan winch and a 300' spool of heavy no stretch rope and if the winch, truck or the 4 wheeler is used to pull something, I'm pretty far away from the danger zone.
Bristoe, you probably know this, but an 8N doesn't have a true drawbar, below the axel centerline. The three point arms will float up as the front end comes up. Maybe you can find a way to chain the front axel, and straddle the chain? Lots of youtube of 8N pulling gone bad. Don't die!
I want an 8N. It doesn't make sense, but I do. I want a small tractor my wife and daughter can run the hay rake with. I think I need something more modern, with better brakes, in these hills.
Yes it does have a true draw bar, if you equip it so. There is a pin under the center of the rear axle to attach it.
The draw bar is available from "Yesterday's Tractors" at a reasonable price.
You also need A arms from the third link pin to the back of the lift arms. Around here, those are available at farm supply stores and the local farm Co-op. https://www.ebay.com/i/141901345063?chn=ps
This photo shows the stabilizer system even though it does not have the draw bar attached. Even without the swinging draw bar attached, the A arms prevent the the lift arms from raising and keeps the pull point below axle level. Remember to disengage the hydraulic lift with the little lever just above and in front of the rear axle while the A arms are fitted.
I prefer the tubing side stabilizers (available at Tractor Supply or Steiner) to the flat ones in the photo above. The flats will bend while turning with a 3 point implement grounded. The tubing is much more durable.
Lots of pics and ideas at this link, but most of the pics go to a redirect so I can not show them here.
Pulling a bush ain't the same as pulling a stump. OTOH, last year when I was up at hunting camp, cousin and his son were pulling some sorta bushes out from in front of the farmhouse, that his missus didn't want in there any more. They'd hacked at the "trunks" with an axe, kid hooked onto one with his Polaris ATV and couldn't budge it. Told him he was probably gonna break the welds on the receiver hitch, which he finally did, after putting the front of the 4x4 up in the air a time or two. It was the "running start" approach that sealed the deal. Chain didn't break, hitch did.
IH 666 diesel across the road in the barn, would've probably snatched the bushes. No idea why they didn't just go get it? Guess kid was sure his ATV was up to the task? Finally got out my 3/8 chain and snatched 'em out with my Chevy Silverado.
My Ford Jubilee has the mounting bracket for a swinging drawbar, just never needed one yet, but that is the preferred method for pulling something heavy or stout - you want the lowest possible pulling point..
When I was a kid spending summers on the farm in the 50s, an uncle baled hay with a Ford 8N and a baler that had a Wisconsin motor on it to run the baler. Years later, the Amish down the road from camp, did the same thing with their "pony motor" powered baler. Only it was on steel wheels and pulled by a team of nags.
I went out and looked under my 8N a little while ago. It's got the mounting bracket for a swinging drawbar,...doesn't look like it's ever had anything attached to it.
Yes, that will take the side sway out of your multipouint draw bar and will keep the blade from moving side to side while in use. Be sure to purchase only category one parts. I once broke a lift arm because the elevated blade swung to the side too hard..
But those will do nothing for vertical stability. For that you will need the four piece set of flats shown above.
Look on the bottom of your fender mounts, under the axle for pins to attach the ffront of the sway bars. You might have to buy brackets and pins for the front of the sway bar. The brackets are retained under the axle by the fender bolts. The pin is a little short thing about two inches long. Yesterday's Tractor and Steiner are dependable sources for any parts which can not be sourced locally.
I went out and looked under my 8N a little while ago. It's got the mounting bracket for a swinging drawbar,...doesn't look like it's ever had anything attached to it.
Most folks do not even realize the belly pin is there. They just pull from the flat multi point draw bar.
But the swinging draw bar is the originally designed pull point. It takes the wear and tear off of the lift arms.
The pin under the rear axle to retain the front of the swinging drawbar is a bit of a proprietary item. If it is missing, you will have to find one to use that style hitch. We always welded a piece of chain to the bottom of the pin and and tied it to the axle assembly.
okay,...but for pulling, it seems to me that it would be a simple matter to attach a chain to the drawbar mount under the differential with a heavy duty clevis.
When I was a kid spending summers on the farm in the 50s, an uncle baled hay with a Ford 8N and a baler that had a Wisconsin motor on it to run the baler. Years later, the Amish down the road from camp, did the same thing with their "pony motor" powered baler. Only it was on steel wheels and pulled by a team of nags.
Pulling a giant hay bailer powered by a Wisconsin engine with an 8N in one of my childhood memories.
I was very young, could only straddle the 8N transmission, stand on the clutch to stop the tractor. I was too small to reach the seat. I thought it was a hoot, pulling that huge IH bailer as it gobbled up windrows, spitting out bails. The big press rocked the 8N as it cycled. You could really feel it when the tractor was stopped, not as much while underway. I must have been 7 or 8 yrs. old.
okay,...but for pulling, it seems to me that it would be a simple matter to attach a chain to the drawbar mount under the differential with a heavy duty clevis.
Possible for a short pull like you were doing pulling a bush out. But if you try to make a turn with a chain secured under the tractor, it will get pulled into the tires where the traction bars will grab it and wrapp ytou all up in it. Bad ju ju!
Much safer to just pull from the flat multi point draw bar. That set of vertical stabilizers to hold the lift down is only $35. Very cheap safety item.
okay,...but for pulling, it seems to me that it would be a simple matter to attach a chain to the drawbar mount under the differential with a heavy duty clevis.
Possible for a short pull like you were doing pulling a bush out. But if you try to make a turn with a chain secured under the tractor, it will get pulled into the tires where the traction bars will grab it and wrapp ytou all up in it. Bad ju ju!
That makes sense,.....but I drug the chain back and forth from the brush pile with the tractor while I was working yesterday. I just made sure to make long, looping turns while it was dragging along back there.
When I was a kid spending summers on the farm in the 50s, an uncle baled hay with a Ford 8N and a baler that had a Wisconsin motor on it to run the baler. Years later, the Amish down the road from camp, did the same thing with their "pony motor" powered baler. Only it was on steel wheels and pulled by a team of nags.
Pulling a giant hay bailer powered by a Wisconsin engine with an 8N in one of my childhood memories.
I was very young, could only straddle the 8N transmission, stand on the clutch to stop the tractor. I was too small to reach the seat. I thought it was a hoot, pulling that huge IH bailer as it gobbled up windrows, spitting out bails. The big press rocked the 8N as it cycled. You could really feel it when the tractor was stopped, not as much while underway. I must have been 7 or 8 yrs. old.
DF
Been there done that. Ours was a New Holland 66. Dad had an 8N. Uncle just down the road had two, Grandad had three. Dad bucked bales for every farmer in the neighborhood. Usually with our 8N and two wheeled trailer. I was the designated tractor driver putting in 8 hour plus days, starting at five years old. Heck it was several years before I figured out that one coudl sit in the seat.
okay,...but for pulling, it seems to me that it would be a simple matter to attach a chain to the drawbar mount under the differential with a heavy duty clevis.
Possible for a short pull like you were doing pulling a bush out. But if you try to make a turn with a chain secured under the tractor, it will get pulled into the tires where the traction bars will grab it and wrapp ytou all up in it. Bad ju ju!
That makes sense,.....but I drug the chain back and forth from the brush pile with the tractor while I was working yesterday. I just made sure to make long, looping turns while it was dragging along back there.
Did you have the chain anchored to the back axle or to a draw bar out at the end of the lift arms? That makes a YUGE difference!
That is the much safer way. For less than $100 you can add the vertical and side stabilizers which will give you a nice solid hitch point See fourth photo in my earlier post..And a point which is held well below the centerline of the rear axle. Actually, as I mentioned above, most folk do not even know about the capability to use the swinging draw bar.
For what you are doing, you will be just fine pulling from the drawbar you already own.
We used the swinging draw bar on the dairy because the 8N pulled a hay trailer all summer and a silage wagon all winter. The pivot point to the trailers was moved a few inches behind the end of the lift arm, which allowed for much tighter turns in the field or feed lot. But at the expense of making the front end of the tractor lighter. One had to be careful to keep the trailer loaded evenly so as to avoid excessive tongue weight.
When puling something may want to consider hooking the chain to the front blade or whatever is available and pull backing up so you don't have to worrying about flipping. (with a piece of burlap, drop cloth or whatever over the chain as mentioned.)
I pulled a 460 w/ C-6 transmission out of Lincoln mark iv one time. Did it with our little kubota L2850
yeehaw!! That thing was bucking like a bronco. Had to go roust my drunkard cousin off his couch and make him stand on the front bar of the tractor so it wouldn't flip. It set down on the radiator support crossmember a couple of times before birthin it free
Yeah,...I know it's something you need to watch out for. But from my experience yesterday, I don't think there's much danger of flipping the tractor as long as I'm on soil. The soil around here is loose and loamy topsoil. At one point I hooked onto more than the little 8N could pull and it just dug trenches in the soil. I kept my foot firmly on the clutch in case it started acting up. The front end might have bounced the front wheels off the ground a couple of inches a time or two, but that's about it. Mostly it just spins the wheels and throws dirt.
When I was a kid spending summers on the farm in the 50s, an uncle baled hay with a Ford 8N and a baler that had a Wisconsin motor on it to run the baler. Years later, the Amish down the road from camp, did the same thing with their "pony motor" powered baler. Only it was on steel wheels and pulled by a team of nags.
Pulling a giant hay bailer powered by a Wisconsin engine with an 8N in one of my childhood memories.
I was very young, could only straddle the 8N transmission, stand on the clutch to stop the tractor. I was too small to reach the seat. I thought it was a hoot, pulling that huge IH bailer as it gobbled up windrows, spitting out bails. The big press rocked the 8N as it cycled. You could really feel it when the tractor was stopped, not as much while underway. I must have been 7 or 8 yrs. old.
DF
Been there done that. Ours was a New Holland 66. Dad had an 8N. Uncle just down the road had two, Grandad had three. Dad bucked bales for every farmer in the neighborhood. Usually with our 8N and two wheeled trailer. I was the designated tractor driver putting in 8 hour plus days, starting at five years old. Heck it was several years before I figured out that one coudl sit in the seat.
Even before I was doing that, I’d steer the truck while Dad was in the back, throwing hay to the cows. He’d put it in low gear, step out, let me steer across the pasture, truck just creaping along. I was in the seat, on my knees. Probably 5 or so. I thought it was cool.
[/quote] Even before I was doing that, I’d steer the truck while Dad was in the back, throwing hay to the cows. He’s put it in low gear, step out, let me steer across the pasture, truck just creaping along. I was in the seat, on my knees . Probably 5 or so. I thought it was cool.
DF [/quote]
That's exactly how I learned to 'drive'.
Big deal when you can reach the clutch and shift on your own!
[/quote] Even before I was doing that, I’d steer the truck while Dad was in the back, throwing hay to the cows. He’s put it in low gear, step out, let me steer across the pasture, truck just creaping along. I was in the seat, on my knees . Probably 5 or so. I thought it was cool.
DF
That's exactly how I learned to 'drive'.
Big deal when you can reach the clutch and shift on your own!
[/quote] Yep, little boys want to do big boy stuff.
Get yourself a good swinging drawbar on there like that one from yesterday's tractor. Put a clevis on it and you'll be all set. It mounts under the centerline like intended and is the right way to pull something. I don't like those 3 pt hitch drawbars, they're kind of the afro engineered way of doing things and they're not very stable. I've got a couple of bent ones in the scrap metal pile behind my shop right now. The lift on an 8n is kind of fragile to begin with and it'd be easy to do damage with one of those.
The thing about flipping the tractor is real, don't take it lightly. When the front end decides to come up it'll happen fast and if your reflexes aren't quick it'll get over on you. That's why you always need to be pulling from below centerline and the differential mount swinging drawbar takes of that for you, the harder you pull the more it forces the front down. That's the way a tractor is designed to pull and is the best way to do it.
I got my butt whipped by a stump today. Only a 36" or so cottonwood but electric, phone and water lines had it surrounded. I only had a ditching bucket on the excavator so I'll be back tomorrow with the proper tool. A tooth bucket to pop some roots will help a lot. I was pushing 20'+ up on the tree with a 45,000# machine with no success.
A note about all of this chain talk. The proper grade of chain is probably more important than the link size. I won't have anything less than grade 70 around my place. I've busted 1/2" grade 70 chains on a dead pull without jerking. The low grade china junk will kill ya quick. I can't remember the last time I spent less than $80 on a chain.
The best tool for pulling trees or brush with smaller machinery is a logging choker. Wrap it around the bush and slide the ball in the clevis end of a 3/8" chain. Quick and easy. I used to buy them for about $15 back in the day.
Even before I was doing that, I’d steer the truck while Dad was in the back, throwing hay to the cows. He’s put it in low gear, step out, let me steer across the pasture, truck just creaping along. I was in the seat, on my knees . Probably 5 or so. I thought it was cool.
DF
That's exactly how I learned to 'drive'. Big deal when you can reach the clutch and shift on your own! [/quote] Yep, little boys want to do big boy stuff.
DF[/quote]
One of my earliest childhood memories:I was driving the farmer's brand new Ford 6000 for Dad while he was stacking bales onto a hay slip behind. He hollered to me to turn right at the bottom of the field. Me, it being the summer before I started first grade, did not know right from left yet. As I rounded the last bale in the row I began a sharp turn around.
Dad yelled at me, "That is not RIGHT!"
So I, being an obedient child, immediately started to reverse my turn.
There was a large drainage ditch at the bottom of the field, and Dad became concerned that I did not have room to make the turn without running into the ditch. Dad ran up the cable connecting the hay slip to the tractor , dropping his hay hooks along the way. He came up over the back of the tractor and slid in behind me. He stomped the clutch and jammed the tractor into reverse, whereupon he abruptly ran the rear tire of the tractor over his hay hook. A large traction tire filled with graphite powder. A very expensive repair.
The next day I was in the same field on the seat of a 58 GMC 1 1/2 ton with an eighteen foot flatbed equipped with a clear field elevator. I would slide down under the steering wheel and step on the clutch. Dad would slip the tranny into granny, and the two speed into low, and pull the hand throttle out a smidge. I would hold the clutch until he climbed out and onto the bed of the truck. Then I would make a valiant effort to put every bale into the mouth of the elevator.
I would let the clutch out then climb up and sit on my knees on the seat to drive. When ever Dad wanted me to stop, he would whistle, and I would climb back down under the steering wheel and stand on the clutch. A second whistle meant go again.
This pin right here. I've got that mount on my 8N also. Couldn't you just hook a chain to the pin with a clevis?
Yes, and for what you are doing you could just give a wrap around the damn axle and giv'r a tug.
worse part about pulling bushes is there is nothing to hang on to with the chain. 5/16 chain probably would have been perfect for what you are doing, you can rig it a little tighter than a 3/8".
A note about all of this chain talk. The proper grade of chain is probably more important than the link size. I won't have anything less than grade 70 around my place. I've busted 1/2" grade 70 chains on a dead pull without jerking. The low grade china junk will kill ya quick. I can't remember the last time I spent less than $80 on a chain
I’m a little surprised that this was not mentioned earlier. Chains have ratings much like bolts do. Personally I don’t trust Chinese hardware, especially lifting or pulling equipment. Those log chockers are really good for this type of work too. Less popular are the chockers that line crews use for setting poles. They have a factory eye on one end and the dog knot and buckle on the other.
All of the cautions And recommendations about pulling with a low center of gravity are well founded.
This pin right here. I've got that mount on my 8N also. Couldn't you just hook a chain to the pin with a clevis?
Yes, and for what you are doing you could just give a wrap around the damn axle and giv'r a tug.
worse part about pulling bushes is there is nothing to hang on to with the chain. 5/16 chain probably would have been perfect for what you are doing, you can rig it a little tighter than a 3/8".
This was a pretty big bush,...about 8' tall and 8' in diameter. There must have been about 40 individual trunks,... each measuring 1.5" to 3" in diameter. I was pulling about 5 trunks at a time. A smaller chain would have done as well, but the 3/8" chain had no problem cinching up tightly enough. The root ball left a hole that required 3 healthy wheelbarrows of dirt to fill. The ruts my tractor dug in the back yard took a couple, also.
Fortunately, I'm digging a fire pit out back to burn off all of this brush that has accumulated. So when I require some dirt to fill a hole, it just means that I dig the fire put bigger.
Going first class may cost more, but is usually worth it.
DF
I didn't put any study into it, actually. I wanted a chain,...Tractor Supply had them all rigged up with hooks in 20' lengths, so I grabbed it up. I didn't know it was grade 70 until it was mentioned here, so I went and looked. I just bought it because it looked like it would do whatever I'd ever need a chain to do.
Everybody needs a heavy length of chain with hooks. I should have bought one a long time ago.
Going first class may cost more, but is usually worth it.
DF
I didn't put any study into it, actually. I wanted a chain,...Tractor Supply had them all rigged up with hooks in 20' lengths, so I grabbed it up. I didn't know it was grade 70 until it was mentioned here, so I went and looked. I just bought it because it looked like it would do whatever I'd ever need a chain to do.
Everybody needs a heavy length of chain with hooks. I should have bought one a long time ago.
That's what I use too.
DOT regulations require at least a Grade 70 for booming equipment.
I pulled with the drawbar yesterday. But since I discovered that mount up under the differential, I'll be hooking to that from now on. Seems to me like it would be pretty difficult to get the front end in the air if you're hooked up that low and that far forward.
Never doubt how fast that tractor can kill you, if a spinning tire catches a root , one half a tire rotation kills you, the time it takes to get your foot on the clutch is surprisingly short as the front end raises, short wheel base tractors have their shortages. It sounds like you are on the right track with your hitch.
Never doubt how fast that tractor can kill you, if a spinning tire catches a root , one half a tire rotation kills you, the time it takes to get your foot on the clutch is surprisingly short as the front end raises, short wheel base tractors have their shortages. It sounds like you are on the right track with your hitch.
Modern tractors can kill ya too. But it's amazing how far things have come with 4x4 differential lock tractors, and ROPS.
Just got done fixing a tank dam that had washed out for a client, and then filling and back dragging a bad low spot on my place.
You mean like plow steel and improved plow steel? Seems like there is another one or two. We used to have some on the dozers that had a purple strand in it.
This was a pretty big bush,...about 8' tall and 8' in diameter. There must have been about 40 individual trunks,... each measuring 1.5" to 3" in diameter. I was pulling about 5 trunks at a time. A smaller chain would have done as well, but the 3/8" chain had no problem cinching up tightly enough. The root ball left a hole that required 3 healthy wheelbarrows of dirt to fill. The ruts my tractor dug in the back yard took a couple, also.
I was just thinking back over my 50+ yrs as a cattleman.
I would love to have been at your tree with my JD 450C dozer. Maybe 5 min and it would have been over...
Small freakin world...…. I probably made the flair die cart that put the dies in the machine. Or...……. the stamping dies that punched tens of thousands of holes for the heat treat racks.
And...….. when we quit or retire, or get laid off, they no longer know us. Right?
Small freakin world...…. I probably made the flair die cart that put the dies in the machine. Or...……. the stamping dies that punched tens of thousands of holes for the heat treat racks.
And...….. when we quit or retire, or get laid off, they no longer know us. Right?
They didn't know me before I retired. If they had,...they would have vacated the building.
I started my party about 3pm today, & now they are calling me & texting my wife etc. that we need to be in Bourbon for the evening party, at a CMWA ex employees house. Small world for damn sure. Thinking I would like to socialize her tonight, but personal interaction trumps air time. Besides, the wife is driving.
I started my party about 3pm today, & now they are calling me & texting my wife etc. that we need to be in Bourbon for the evening party, at a CMWA ex employees house.