Make a hell of a mess...

Better than the alternative.

Buy halon then.

BTDT!

It'll be a long time before you get everything but hey the kitchen is still there........

I do have one that I hope to never use. The alternative is really not that good.

Far less mess than a kitchen fire and the demo/construction to put it all back right!

It's amazing how fast stuff burns! Not just the food.... Better luck next time?

There wasn't any real danger of burning down the kitchen. Just would have smoked the house up pretty bad. I was cooking the fat from some venison ribs. The stock pot was pretty full and some of the fat must have run over. There was quite a bit of it under the burner and it caught fire the next time I used the burner. As long as I left the pan on the burner the flames stayed down but it was smoking pretty bad and it would have taken a while to burn out.

Just make sure to keep a fresh fire alarm alarm installed.

Baking soda.

We have one in our kitchen, hope we never use it.

Yes, one of those better to have, and not need, than to need, and not have.

We have one just outside the kitchen door. During a hot fire, it'll be easier and safer to get at.

Weren't they banned / discontinued ?

Nope, still sold and one of their uses can be kitchen fires. There is also a class "K" type of extinguisher specifically for kitchen fires.

After Dad (was about 80) left a burner on (Old firefighter simply put a lid on the pan when the smoke detector woke him up) I got a chemical type for the kitchen. CO² and I imagine Halon types can make things worse if not used correctly.

How so ?

Can splatter flaming grease all over. Instinctively people spray up close at the base of the fire.

... That's what I was wondering.... We have a good size Kidde extinguisher near the kitchen. It's rated for type "A", "B", & "C" fires so I figure I'm pretty well covered. What's the deal on the Halons ? I think most extinguishers can make things worse if not used correctly...... Like not aiming at the base of the fire and not sweeping side to side. Would I be better off with a halon for household use?

Spray around the fire when using Halon as it displaces the oxygen ?

I have smoke detectors on every floor, and each bedroom. Kitchen and livingroom have thier own. Fire extinguishers in each stairwell, and the kitchen has one made for kitchen use, right by the rear door. However, a wet towel laid over the flames is usually enough.

Never had occasion to set a Halon off but a quick Google said they're charged to about 100 PSI.

Wiki had this: Halon gases are banned from new production under the Montreal Protocol, as of January 1, 1994 as its properties contribute to ozone depletion and long atmospheric lifetime, usually 400 years. Halon may be recycled and used to fill newly manufactured cylinders, however, only Amerex continues to do this. The rest of the industry has moved to halon alternatives, Wiki

Half the fire deaths I went to were the result of people attempting to put the fire out themselves. Two of those fires were still confined to the wastebasket the fire started in so the fire does not have to be large. I am not a fan of people trying to put fires out themselves if simply covering the fire with a thick towel or water does not do the trick as the person places themselves at increasingly greater risk.

The gases produced by modern synthetic materials have become more and more deadly over time. Various forms of mustard and nerve gases are regularly produced and it takes only a couple of breaths to put a person down. And it is not just the gases, the heat can sear parts or all of the airway causing one to suffocate. Temperatures can rise very rapidly as the fire grows and even using an extinguisher can displace the heat which may be in the direction of the person using the extinguisher. Then there are the other byproducts of combustion- the various carcinogens that may not show up for years afterward.

If one uses an extinguisher, then a whole new set of issues pops up. The substance in dry chemical extinguishers is a corrosive which is hydroscopic and begins corroding anything it comes in contact with whether that is food, appliances, or lungs.

Any foods not in unopened cans should be tossed as the powder works its way into every crevice no matter how small. This goes for that in cupboards if in the same room as that chemical spreads easily.

The same for appliances, I've seen where dry chem got inside an appliance and corroded everything inside within a year and it is hard to convince the insurance company this was related to the fire they already paid off. Even electrical outlets can be affected which may lead to another fire at a later date. This also applies to the furnace or air conditioner as it will not only be exposed to the dry chem when run but can also spread remnants of the chemical through out the house.

Then there are one's own body and the affects breathing in a corrosive powder can bring. When I was a volunteer, we serviced and filled our own dry chem extinguishers and there was a rather rigorous safety protocol to do so. Not only was there risk when actually filling the cans but also the clean up necessary if any product was spilled as it can readily migrate to other places on air currents.

As a department, both the volunteer and the career departments I was a member of did extinguisher training. As the risks mounted we stopped doing so after a couple of fatalities occured in our response areas or in neighboring ones. Our suggestions for use became get out and call 9-1-1 if simple smothering didn't work. If one insisted to use an extinguisher, then do so only from the doorway of an open outside exit.

I have an extinguisher and have had the same $6 Kidde for 30 years. It is kept under the sink in the kitchen. I have it only because my insurance company provides a small break on the fire side of my policy. I don't have one any place else as there is little point of it. My only regret is not putting in a home sprinkler system when I built my current home. It is the one thing I could have done to make a real difference in fire protection. Unfortunately, that was early in the residential sprinkler era when few builders were familiar with the process and many insurance companies charged extra due to potential water damage if there were leaks. I would do it in a heartbeat today.

I pay a lot of hard earned money for home insurance for a reason. On a boat, that’s a whole different story.

Thanks for the reminder.

I put of couple of the halo aerosol extinguishers in the Amazon cart.

BTW the old universal chemical fire extinguisher for kitchens was a box of baking soda. Get the stuff hot enough an it releases carbon dioxide. Can see it for a fire inside a stove top. This is for small fires - takes a lot of the stuff to make a decent amount of CO². Non-corrosive.

An fire needs 4 things to burn though : Heat, fuel, oxygen, and a chemical chain reaction (or a chief depending on the source). Remove one of them and the fire goes out.

Halon is designed to work in an enclosed space as it works to displace oxygen from the room to extinguish a fire. One needs to determine the cubic area of the room along with determining the amount of leakage as an adequate amount of Halon needs to remain in the area until either the fuel is removed, the heat drops to less than ignition temperature, or some means of hindering the chemical chain reaction is put in place. If one of these secondary means of fire suppression is not employed, then the fire will restart as soon as oxygen levels return. Often with a vengeance. This is why water works so well to suppress fires- it cools temperatures and smothers fuel to break the chemical chain reaction

Depending on the source, it may be suggested that a remote means of applying Halon is used as it does displace oxygen and may not be conducive to one working in the area without a supplemental air supply. I had a very limited exposure to Halon systems, it was once used for fire suppression in "computer rooms" back when the mainframes were housed in their own climate controlled areas. With technology having changed no longer needing special rooms and computers becoming obsolete so quickly, it is easier and cheaper to use the standard water sprinkler system for fire control.

A CO2 extinguisher will do anything a Halon extinguisher will do except deplete the Ozone layer. It has the added advantages, if you will, of cooling the material as well as smothering so the fire flaring back up is lessened to some degree. I've used them far more often than dry chem due to the lesser after affects. It may not be the best for some applications but it can work if enough is used or it may prevent the fire from growing until a different suppression method is set up.

You really don't need to use Halon in your house. It is typically used in fixed systems in our marine environment for enclosed engine rooms and Turbine engine enclosures that have ventilation that closes automatically or manually on release. Breathing Halon can extinguish you too.We used to have a platform with A fixed Halon system in the MCC ( Motor Control Center) There was a siren and flashing red strobe to tell you to get out of the building in the event of a Halon release. We were trained that it attaches to red blood cells more readily than oxygen and blocks oxygen. In a word don't breathe Halon it can kill you.
Our Systems on the place I work now are FM-200 a more environmentally friendly version. The Living quarters has a fixed CO2 system. and the Galley stove has a CO2 system. They have siren fans in line that would wake the dead to tell you to evacuate the building also. Most people in house fires die from asphyxiation.