Decided I needed to build a camp stove. Didn't want a lightweight sheepherder stove, was looking for something more permanent. All 1/4" material except the legs. I'm about 4 hours into it.

10x10 tube x 16" deep main box. Removable legs.










Next I need to design the hinges, latch, draft, install the door seal. Kind of a fun project that should last a lifetime.

Neat little project!

Maybe run some angle iron inside to create a little air space?

it does look like a fun project.

any concern that the extra metal thickness might inhibit heat transfer a bit? might consider welding on some "fins" to help radiate heat.

sure looks like it'll last a while, though!

Interesting project, following!

Good stuff, furball.

Hell for stout.

But then....

Yeah, I could. It's going in a 5x10 x 6 1/2 foot high trailer. Pretty small space won't need much of a fire to heat it.

It'll take a while to heat up, and it will hold heat for a while too. Probably just going to run me out of the trailer all the time. LOL.

Rocket stoves work for me...

SS beer keg and 4" exhaust pipe

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Refrigerant tank and 3/4" black iron

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http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1310/13785214/24839560/414308488.jpg

Good luck with your project

Nice work. Man, that stove is heavy duty. Might want to reinforce the trailer floor.

I see a man size angle grinder in the picture.

That thing must be HEAVY!

How much does it weigh?

I'm going to have to go through with the 3.4 swap on the Toyota or drive the Dodge.

I'm guessing it weighs 100.

That will work well. I've used a couple cargo trailers, with wood stoves in them! Last trip was coyote hunting in Eastern Oregon desert, February this year! Stove would run you out, it would get so hot! We added outside combustion air, with a rectangular tube! The trailer belongs to a friend! He didn't want to run out of oxygen!

I hope to do the Campfire cougar hunt again in the Oregon desert this winter. Last year it was around zero and I slept in the truck. Not happening again if I can help it!

That will work well. I've used a couple cargo trailers, with wood stoves in them! Last trip was coyote hunting in Eastern Oregon desert, February this year! Stove would run you out, it would get so hot! We added outside combustion air, with a rectangular tube! The trailer belongs to a friend! He didn't want to run out of oxygen!

Weight??? Should work well, but my 20+ season old light weight folding sheepherder unit is kicking out heat within 5 minutes of tossing the match in. Will take a bit longer to heat that much metal in the early AM's. Regardless of design, I find chimney dampers are the cat's meow for controlling burn rate.

I've been looking for a 4" chimney damper locally but no luck yet.

My hope for this stove is two fold. First, I want it to throw heat as long as possible, so lightweight metal that warps and doesn't have a well sealed door is out. All night burn baby! Second, see #1.

As to your intake... Put your intake at the top of the door, with a channel to the bottom of the door on the inside ala Sotz. Never a spark when the wood pops. AND preheats combustion air and causes just enuff turbulence for an efficient burn. Pipe damper a must....

kinda like this, if you can see it...

Nice project.

I doubt that you'll be able to get an 'all night' burn outta that small of stove, unless you add a grate and load it with charcoal.....

Diamond Home Improvement, in Klamath has them! I'm sure they will send you one!

I went thru Diamond here with an armload of supplies on my way to the checkout counter and tripped over their tiny stoves. Pretty nice.

Don, I'll try to incorporate your idea about draft. I'm not the craftsman you are.

I'm hoping it's all in how well I can seal it. May just be a smoldering smudge, but I'm hoping that's perfect for the small space. Also, we have madrone for firewood here, not pine or fir, which burns a very long time and hot. You can mix and match the woods with different moisture levels too depending on what you need.

I'm hopeful I'll get all night smolder just to keep it about 40 degrees in winter. What do you think, will it work?

*I think I have the right piece of channel for the draft Don..

You’re supposed to leave the welding showing, so everyone can comment on the purty beads...unless you're dirt dobbing it together.

I built a camper out of a 16' box truck years ago for hunting trips up north and heated it with a 10,000 btu kerosene heater not only did it stink us out the heat drove us out! We slept with the door rolled up about a foot in 20 degree weather. Came home and tossed that kerosene heater on the junk pile! Next I built a woodstove similar to yours with a pipe welded on that went thru the box wall putting an inline draft damper for the combustion air at rear of stove near bottom. The flue pipe exhaust went out about 1/2 way up the wall. The stove itself had no draft holes other than what seeped in around door gasket. Picking the right size wood to get a smolder rather than a flame was the trick but we used that "camper" for years until I bought a piece of land and built a hunting shack.

I'm closer to a dobber than a beader. Especially when I couldn't get the helmet working for a spell!

These things usually demand quite a bit of research, to make sure they draft, RE pipe size and length, and vent well and burn well etc... not just a container with a few holes in it, though that did seem to work for barrel stoves often.

I'd sure put some research into things though.

Other than that I like the fact it will last. Slow to heat up generally but should hold heat some. Fire bricks inside some help wiht that too. Of course you burn tiny stuff first to get it all hot and then ad in the big, should heat up ok, and can leave the big door cracked as long as you sit there while it heats up. Do that at the deer lease often.

Is that one of those new ventless units?

Probably have to refill it a couple times then be out at 4:00 am

Nice looking stove, ugly welding.
JFC we call that slob and gob

That’s what they called it at the Oregon glory hole too.

Yo may want to lay something to replace the insulating qualities of an ash bed to protect the bottom of the stove.
Funny how much heat wood has in the "coals" state

Furball, main thing I see is I think you should make the leg stance much wider. Looks tippy. Maybe think about a tripod style that sits on uneven ground. And air gap between the legs and firebox. welds deteriorate quickly with constant red hot heat.
Jus say'n

W. Bill

"Are you going to take it to the fair'?

Have fun with it, who cares what we think.

You guys drinking this early in the morning?

I am not running that stove red hot. Period. It will not get red hot. I am not heating a stadium.

Thanks for the critique on the welds, yes, I know, I suck. So does my Hobart welder and my Chi-com helmet.

AOD, thanks for not missing an opportunity to troll a thread and make an anti-Oregon comment, I appreciate your consistency. You remind me of this mornings dump.


Forget I posted. Go back to your drinking.

Didn't know you would take our comments so hard.

This stove disassembles for transport. It will not tip over. I have a narrow space between the side door on the trailer and the front of the trailer and I don't want legs sticking out to trip on. If it proves to be tippy I'll secure it to the wall with removable supports. Repeat, it does not travel assembled in the trailer, hence the removable legs.

Looks good, be nice when it’s cold!

I like it. Looks strong enough that you could put a combo lock on the front and have a pretty good safe for valuables.

Roy, nice looking project.
If I may, definitely follow Don’s advice about the draft channel on the door. It will help keep the door flat. Otherwise it’s going to warp on you. BTDT.
Maybe even a small angle run around the perimeter of the door to give it more resistance to warping.
Please post pics of the stove in action when you’re done.

Nice project - I's also like to see pictures of stove in action.

Best of luck.

I did take use Don's advice and have welded a channel to the back of the door for draft. The hole is cut in the door, flap installed over it with a keeper, and a channel around the inside perimeter for the door seal. Was working on hinges when I quit last night. Going hunting this morning but I'll get some photos when I can.

Anyone know where I can get those springy deally boppers for the handles so I don't burn myself opening the door and draft? Haven't found them locally.

A stiff-wire loop drilled thru the handle beats the hell outta springy deallies, for staying cool.....

you can kinda see it.

fb2.....why did you go with wood over propane?.....am going to do an 8x18 cargo......what was your thinking?...…….bob

A cheap slag/chipping hammer handle will work. As someone else mentioned, heat transfer would seem to be the only issue to me, but if it works alright that's all that matters.

Have got to tell you that is one of only a few things in these here fora that I covet.

OK, we're getting closer. Fired it up tonight. Puts out heat in just a few minutes. Did not take near as long to get warm as I thought it would. Thank you all for your suggestions. I did use Don's draft idea, and found the 4" chimney damper. Burning off some grease and curing the door seal glue tonight. Want to add a shelf underneath tomorrow that will put otward pressure on the legs and stiffen everything up. The draft flap handle is removable (bolt threaded into a nut).

👍

That'll work 👍 Not thinking it'll break any time soon!

Most of my tools have been in storage for a couple years so it feels good to build the stove. Always learn a lot when you work with your hands.

A good stove isn't as easy to build as it would seem.

Should have put the c pipe on the sides or back and a bit down...let it heat up the top and hang around abit before it runs up the chimmy....my 1.98 cents....every one is worried how fast it will throw heat ...me i like'em to hold heat ...will i pass out

I can get fuel anywhere I hunt at no cost. And the heat is dry for drying out wet clothes after hunting the Oregon late seasons we have here. Nothing like wood stove heat.

Good idea sounds like. I guess I could have run the pipe down inside a couple inches and accomplished about the same thing. Seems like that would change the draft characteristics and could potentially lead to it smoking when you open the door. I have a chimney damper should accomplish about the same thing.

U still can.... run it down inside a bit, add a piece of flat plate just inside the door a 1.5 below the c pipe stub looks like u did great on the incomming draft..grab it 2/3rds up then let her fly on the bottom. Get u a grate to keep a decent fire once the ash is pileling ....

I'm runnin outa time! Gotta get this trailer together this week for elk hunting opener this weekend. If I make it at all. My have to hunt November instead if work and things conspire to keep me home.....

That turned out awesome... Nice work

Great job,That that bad boy is going to keep you toasty,throw out some heat.with the right wood give you some nice long burns.

https://tejassmokers.com/Pit-Accessories/34

Nice stove it should hold the heat very well.
You can find the sporing handles around but have to order them I bet.

Great job on that!

Question though... Why is the smoke pipe as long as it is?

I'm sure there's a reason, I just need it explained...

Get through the top of the trailer with clearance I assume.

Nice looking stove BTW

Awesome project!

I took the tank from an old hot water heater. Cut maybe 60% of it off to use as a stove and welded a front wall/door/vent on to it. Made 4 legs that screw into nuts welded to the belly. A 6 inch pipe with damper that mates up with the flue pipe. Don't have any pictures of the stove itself but here is one of it inside my tent. Jam it full when we go to bed and there is still orange coals in the AM.

The steel shop had a scrap 12" long piece and I said, "Oh, I only need about half that, you might as well cut it".

Need to put up a heat shield otherwise done. Oh and bricks inside if I have time. I put feet on it in case I ever want to screw it down. Figured the shelf would be good to throw gloves, tools, and maybe shoes on.

You are a Craftsman

A piece of tin on 2 inch spacers against the wall and you will be set.

I got a 3'x3' piece of tin and some small tubing for spacing it out from the wall, I was thinking 3" from the wall. Great minds think alike my friend!

Nice job.

Might want to crack a window so you don't asphyxiate yourselves. Just to be on the safe side.

Good luck with your hunting!

No windows yet, but I'm rigging up a small chain on the side door (which closes with resistance, as if spring loaded) that will allow me to leave it cracked for air. I also have an air vent up top and a couple strategic "leaks" at the back doors for cross ventilation. Look forward to getting windows though and yes, thank you for the advice! If I don't report back you'll know it didn't work.

Congrats, looks like a winner.

I’d make it shorter and wider. It’ll probably work Uber though.

I’d go 6” from the wall. Measure twice. Cut once.