Just thinking that now the Teslong bore scope is available to every Tom, Dick, and Harry in the shooting world at a negligible price. Comparing that to when chronographs broke the $200 price barrier and every serious reloader or shooter of factory ammo suddenly had access to accurate velocity information.

All of a sudden, the consumer could see exactly how accurate the velocity claimed on the end of the box was.

Does a cheap bore scope mean that the barrel makers are going to have step up their game. Or will the consumer recognize that group size matters more than pretty pics from inside the barrel.

Here are some samples:
$350 rifle from Walmart. Weatherby Vanguard CM in 243 with 20 rds.





$1000 rifle from Gunbroker. Remington 5R SS in 260 unfired




And for comparison, a custom Kreiger SS with 20 rds down the tube




I think the factory Howa is actually the prettiest of the bunch. But I do not know yet which will shoot the best. I am just playing with the camera

Might just make one chase the rabbit down another hole.

If they won't shoot then maybe look.

Someone else had a thread just like this about a week ago.

Those bore scopes must be getting around.

I think the best thing I have found the borescope for is checking for throat erosion and how clean the barrel is.I checked one of my best shooting rifles and I was surprised to find quite a few really ugly tool marks,so you never know.Another thing I checked was how much room I have in my chamber for my brass to grow..Here is a pic of the neck of the brass in the chamber

I'm not so sure I want to see some of my bores... some of them likely shoot better than they should. Would be good for spotting the occasional carbon ring that develops.

Bb

I just got one last week and checked out a couple of barrels. I think it will come in handy for a number of situations. I got the $69 model with the rigid tube rather than the flexible cable.

Holy smokes - it is a rifle - with a bore looking slightly more or less like thousands of others. How does it SHOOT?

I remember a review of a cheap Remington rifle (770? 783? one of those) by Dave Petzal. He said the bore looked like a coal mine, but the rifle shot lights out. Makes me afraid to look in the bores of my rifles.

On the other hand, I have a Tikka Model 558 in 243 which has always shot wonderfully well. All of a sudden, it stopped doing so. I borrowed a friend's Hawkeye bore scope, and took a look at the throat. It looks fine. I was sure the throat of a 25 year old 243 was worn out. It's not. The mystery deepens.

Slugging a bore will tell you more information about how the bore will perform than a bore scope.

But there is no substitute for a bore scope for parts of a bore inspection such as copper, rust, is the crown damaged, what is the concentricity of the bore to the chamber at the neck and throat junctions, ..... what does the chamber surface look like.

I found my magnum rifles are a lot harder on the throat than my non magnums.So I learned I should shoot the magnums a whole lot less.Here is one of my 300 Win Mag throats

I got one of those for Christmas too.

I have a nice custom tube that hasn't been shooting. Took a peak inside and guess what? Little spots of rust within an inch of the muzzle!
Yes, this is worthwhile.

A couple of rules

More pressure = more wear period.

Hot barrels eat bores even worse - My rule that I pick up from old guys who knew more years ago - is if the barrel metal is already past 180 degrees I stop shooting.. But some guys will keep firing, and firing, and firing... and eat the bore.

When you pass 180 degree’s - if you touch the barrel, your reaction will be to yank your hand away before it gets burned... so if you can’t grab the barrel - stop shooting the thing.

I never let my barrels get that hot.I usually shoot three and switch to another rifle while that one is cooling.Heat is a bad thing for barrels.So it like this,say you have a 308 Win and your burning say 45grs of powder and your have say a 300 Win Mag and your burning 75grs,that 300 Win Mag is going to get a lot hotter.

Thus, what should/will be done about those little spots of rust? And, the result?

Given the basic purpose of the rifle, why would a person shoot those magnums a whole lot less?

I too got a Teslong scope and spent several days scoping my barrels. It was enlightening, some of my most accurate barrels looked awful, with Savage barrels being the worst, no surprise there.
I was surprised how much erosion some magnums had, also some pre-64 M70's in standard calibers had erosion, yet they shoot great.
I don't believe you can predict the accuracy by appearances alone. I did find flaws in several barrels. The best part of the borescope for me was to analyze cleaning methods and the effectiveness or lack of , with different products and procedures. It also made me appreciate stainless barrels more.

carbon fouling.

Just like I was thinking. Its well known since I was old enough to read, that mags are rough on bores, hence shorter bore life.

But whats a gun for? To look at or to shoot? They make more barrels and gunsmiths every day. Easy enough to re barrel one.

and what did you learn by how close or far MV was from touted? Drops are learned by actual shooting.

Pressure though, thats the realm of a chrono in a way, but SO many variables there too IMHO and then each book can give a different max speed IE pressure. Truly MV/pressure wise we will always be somewhat blind.

AND, the ads show what a cop had in his rifle... now most cops, WTF are they going to learn or do with a scope even if they see copper fouling. And exactly who says copper fouling is bad? I mean if you can shoot 5000 rounds in a 223 in a year and still win matches at the end of the day having never cleaned it the whole year...

With a flame temperature of 3200 deg F...I don't think anyone should be surprised what they see on the inside of the chimney. That said, I would like to see, on 3 new bbls, the difference between a well made hammer forged, a cut, and a button. From the standpoint of a machinist, I would suspect the button would look horrible...since after all is said and done, you are smearing steel. But look how well button bbls shoot. There's a lot we don't know.

Well, I can tell you what I'm NOT going to do - chase my tail trying to develop an accurate load for it. If it won't shoot a 77 SMK, it's on to more drastic measures like boring out the muzzle or just selling the thing with disclosure.

I'm JBing it now. We'll see if it will shoot the 77 after that.

I think I'll get my no throat 300WSM throated .050 longer and it may clean it up too.I noticed I had a drop in accuracy and I can see a little buildup on the leads

The one thing I've learned is what I thought is clean is not; This is especially true in the throat area where carbon is still evident. My cleaning regiment has been wipeout/outers foam, Butches Bore Shine followed by Eezox for rust prevention. I seem to be getting "most" of the copper out. However, the carbon is another story. How are some of you getting your barrels clean short of using Flitz or other compound?

Flintlocke
Im old machinist too. I figure the button would compare the same as a cut tap and a thread former with the roll thread being smoother
Now can someone buy two identicsl rifles and compare barrel breakin procedure with just shooting it?

I believe it was Kingston who started this borescope thing . I plan on buying one in the next week or so.

I can use wipeout foam and accelerator until the patch is clean and then followup with KG-1 and the patch comes out black or at least has black streaks. FWIW

It's been said that you really don't want to see how sausage is made.

Paul

Yes sir I could, already have 2 identical except twist model 21 Cooper 223’s. But why?

How are some of you getting your barrels clean short of using Flitz or other compound?

Gave up on the foam a few years back due to it not working well at all. To get rid of carbon I soak it in Kroil for an hour or so, nylon brush then repeat with Kroil and Butchs Bore shine 50/50 mix. Works great for me.

I see they sell both flexible and rigid, and it looks like they might make more than one model of the flexible ( amazon), gathered by reading replies.

Any suggestions on flexible vs rigid and what model # you like

Allen

No, I have the flexible and my understanding was that if you coiled it too tight it would break. My cure was to pick up some 1/2” pvc glued a padded cap on one end and a removable padded cap on the other. I then just Store it flat in the tube on a shelf.

Carbon. Soak with Kroil to get under it so to speak or ability to loosen.

JB and even diamond lap paste are a main stay if I have issues. Not at all afraid to use them. Cannot ever say they have harmed a gun in relation to barrel life or accuracy. They usually bring it back, but if its at the end of its life then its kinda 50/50.

End of life I do find that, and I think chrono's are overrated generally, if I shoot over a chrono I've lost speed and hence may not be in the sweet spot so need to ad powder and possibly bullet seating depth if thats possible.

I have never tried the fire lap bullets. FWIW.

You make a valid point. I don't know anything about formed threading but I imagine it is a somewhat gradual process. I put in a few days with old Chick Donnelly barrelmaker, in his shop and the buttons he used were very short, not much longer than the bearing surface of a comparable bullet. Anyway, it's all speculation on my part except for one time I was bored and cut a small section of new , cut rifled bbl lengthwise and I was impressed with the finish. Unfortunately only at 10X and I didn't compare it with anything else.

By the way fellas, I had a customer who was an avid class 3 machine gun guy, hire me to help him remove carbon and metal fouling in a number of machine gun bbls. We just used the over the counter Bore Tech Inc., "Eliminator". He had been fighting those barrels (9 or 10) for weeks with Sweets and others. You should have seen the stuff break loose in 20 or 30 minutes at room temps. He is a believer now and takes it to the shoots and attacks the barrels when they are warm. Some of his air cooled 1919's were converted to 8x57 to take advantage of the cheap ammo from the Balkans, and it was plenty hot, but it was the dirtiest ammo you could imagine. You might give it a try.

Steve, I see that the rigid scope is only 22" long vs. the flexible scope being 40". Have you found any downfalls of having a rigid scope that's a bit shorter? I am leaning towards getting a rigid scope but wanted to see how you, who have a first hand experience with it, are liking it.

Regards,

I saw it was 21". In any event I just ordered the flexible cable one that is long enough for about any barrel. Imagine trying to look at the throat of a Savage 99 with a 21" rod.

I stand corrected...indeed it’s 21” rather than 22”. Regardless you make a valid point.

Regards,

WOW!!!

I got my $50 unit in two days, and it's impressive. It was easy to install the software on my 8.1 laptop. I had to tell it a few times to go ahead and open the site and the software. It's a snap to use. I got the flexible 40" shaft version and recommend it.

I'm not sure I am happy I got it, however. Every bore I checked had me shaking. How could anything so rough and messed up shoot so straight!

that borescope is really fun to show how unclean the barrels really are. you will find yourself using JB bore paste a lot more often. Its the only thing other than maybe 40x to really get the barrels clean. you need an abrasive cleaner.

Any of you guys have any trouble getting your Teslong bore scope to work? I hooked mine up to my older laptop with Windows 7, and it worked great.....for the first few minutes. I got it working, put it away until today, and now it doesn't recognize it. I took it up to my desk model PC with Windows 10...no luck. Could it be defective?

I once worked for a refrigeration company and had to price work for the Slim Jim plant. Huge carts of mystery meat going into the stuffers.

I guess it would be neat to see how my barrels looked but ignore concerned with how they shoot. Glad to see others posting pics though.

If you read the manual or go to the web site you would find that there is a software package to run on Win7, vista and XP. As far as Win10 mine has fired up every time. Try rebooting and use a different USB port.

I tried everything I know how, but no luck. I E mailed the company, but they are out until Feb for Chinese Spring Festival....I kid you not. I guess Commie countries have to make up some kind of holidays...they don't have Christmas. I'm just using my common sense that Sum Ting Wong..and I'm sending it back for a replacement.