I have a Remington SAUM model 7 that seems to eject the case in such a way that it sometimes drops the case in the magazine rather than throwing it out, away from the action. It seems to happen mostly when I slowly pull the bolt back. If I cycle it fast, it doesn’t seem to be as much a problem. Either way, I’d like to get it ejecting more surely. Any suggestions on what the problem is or how expensive to fix?

A dirty ejector plunger is the likely culprit. Brass shavings and bits get in there and reduce travel and force.

Easy to take down... just 3 parts: a plunger, a spring, and a cross pin to retain them. Just control the lunger and drive out the pin. Sometimes the plungers can really fly, be careful!

Clean the brass and gunk out, then use a bit of dry lube when you put it back together. The plunger sides are the usual culprit.

TY

I had a Model Seven Saum that did that. Sent the bolt to Greg Tannell and he diagnosed a problem with the extractor. He put a new one on and it slings brass into the next county now.

I’d try the suggestion of cleaning the plunger first but don’t be surprised if that doesnt fix it

If you have a windage turret, make sure the brass is not hitting it and bouncing back.

I would bet the frequency of sticky plungers outnumbers broken extractors by an huge number.

Check for junk under your extractor...

I wouldn't disagree. Just sharing my personal experience.

If I remove the firing pin, will the ejector button still be under pressure when I drive the pin out that holds it in place, and where do you suggest getting a new spring?

Yes.

Get a sandwich bag and put the bolt head in. Make a hole with your punch and then tap the pin out with the bolt head in the baggie. The ejector and spring will pop out into the bag.

Midway and Brownells will have them for less than 10 bucks. If you look around I think there are "extra power" springs too.

It is rare that the spring weakens or breaks. It is just friction from gunk, sticky oil, or brass shavings. The firing pin does not connect to the ejector in any way.

A stronger spring can cause other issues and makes your brass hard to find.

Everything I see at midway and brownells seem to be labeled “model 700”.....will “700” parts work as replacement for model 7 spring or plunger. Hope not to need to replace, but just wondering. Same question in regards to the extractor.

You will not need spring or plunger...

Do I have to break down the bolt and remove the firing pin to do this project or can I leave the rest of the bolt assembled?

Just push the pin out for the ejector, no need to disassemble the entire bolt. When you put it back in get the cross pin started in the hole and use an empty case hooked under the extractor to compress the ejector. Gently tap the pin on in with a small hammer then you can seat it below flush with a punch after its captured the ejector.

Thank you.

I've had a similar problem with my M7 caused by the ejector shaving brass from the cartridge case head. The shavings eventually lodge inside the ejector hole causing it to get stuck. I've polished the face of the ejector where it rubs against the case head as well as the ejector hole to reduce the brass shaving. Played with trimming the spring to reduce the ejection force but finally decided to reinstall a full power spring. I've come to the conclusion that my problem is most likely too little headspace which causes the case to jam or stick and not rotate when closing the bolt. With the polishing the brass shaving is reduced. May need to bump the shoulder back more on my reloads and try that first. It's always confusing when these things happen. Not a professional gunsmith but you know how that goes.

Remington couldn't fix it when I gave them the first try. They are a do it yourself proposition unfortunately.

More likely you run handloads on the very hot side...

The case is bigger after firing, therefore the bigger problem comes during ejection, not loading.

The idea of reducing spring force because the ejection is weak is backward.

Actually it happens without firing. New brass, resized brass, factory ammo, doesn't matter. Did so right from the factory on day one. Used to be after 3 rounds the brass shavings plugged the ejector. Now it's better but still shaves a little. Leaves a mark on the case head. Rifle started as a .260 then I rebarreled to a .338-08. Made no difference. Been working on curing this for 25 years. Its not as bad now but it's the only rifle I've ever had that has done this. When I first sent it back to a Remington Service Center they clipped a few coils off the ejector spring and sent it back to me with a bill for $100. I tested their work by chambering a few rounds and the same problem as before happened with the brass shaving plus now the ejection was much weaker. I called them and let them know my problem wasn't fixed and they said to bring it back but I didn't. Remington warranty is poor. Great hobby guns though!

I've had a couple guys drop off 700's years past with those symptoms. I went after the ejector, hammer and tongs and enthusiasm. Wrong, in both cases the, extractor was the culprit , releasing the rim before the ejector plunger could do it's job. One needed cleaning under the C spring and one required replacement.

With low rings the 788's were terrible about this , wouldn't surprise me if it was happening here. MB

the problem with cleaning under the Extractor that should hold it is the remy extractors can’t be removed without being replaced...

It should sounds like the extractor should be replaced.

Thanks for the advice. I remove the parts, cleaned things completely out and lightly oiled. Noticed a big difference!

And if no one said it earlier, do not use WD-40!