How difficult is it to cut a synthetic stock? Specially like a Tikka T3? I want to trim about s half inch and replace the recoil pad.
Thank.
Have not done a Tikka but other stocks were pretty easy. Use a new sharp blade designed for PVC pipe, I think about 22tpi but check on that. I put a layer of making tape around the butt and draw a reference line. Not sure if the tape is doe's any good or is just a carry over from wood stocks, but it can prevent scratches on the stock. You may have a very rough edge but easy to scrape or sand off, just make sure not to round the edge.
If the pad butt stock line is very visible I will bed the pad in black epoxy with release agent on the pad.
Depends om how much you take off but you may need to make something for the pad to be screwed into if you don't want a glue on. I use wood epoxied in place or make a fiber glass pillar. There are several other methods too.
To add to Tejano's thread - get your attachments set first, then attach the pad.. Use a scribe to outline the grind area, then remove the pad and grind ONLY until the scribe line disappears - maintaining the toe angle so it looks right.. I usually initially grind the pad when it's on the stock to within .015-.025, then remove and finish off the stock.. If the stock's as hollow as most, you can use either epoxy as he does, or you can use acra glass to anchor the pad.. If it's going to be permanent, skip the release agent and rough up the mating areas before attaching to ensure a tight bond..
The T3 stock has a solid cylinder supported by a web that runs along the top and bottom of the stock. It is drilled for the buttpad screws.
The very first thing I did was use a snug but not tight drill bit to deepen those holes.
That allowed the existing hole to guide my bit so I maintained the exact angle.
Then it's simple to screw into those rods.
I shortened mine quite a bit for my daughter.
Couldn't find a pad to fit, and wanted one that had a hard backer to span the hollow
stock. So, I went to the truck/trailer fab shop and they gave me a scrap of
1/8 inch aluminum that was fitted to the cut stock.
Then, I bought a new pair of flip flops with black soles.
Custom aluminium backed flip flop pad? About $4.
With enough material to make several more if need be.
Sorry, the other posts got me distracted from the actual question.
I cut mine with a new hacksaw blade.
Left just about 1/8"extra.
Use an 80 grit belt sander to get closer.
Finished with a fine grit.
Tape it off and mark your desired length. Use the adjustable push bar on a table saw to cut the same angle and run it through there. Take a razor and carefully trim the flashing off that the table saw blade will leave. Install your pad by screwing or glueing or both and grind to fit on a disk or upright belt sander. Finish the pad by buffing with a green Scotchbrite followed by steel or bronze wool and some light oil.