i have an 870 supermag that has had a remington ventilator choke stuck for probably 15 years. pretty much gave up on it because i didn't want to damage the barrel. its a no-wrench style. i have not found anything substantial enough to put through the port holes to twist for leverage and did not want to take the channel locks to it so i kind of gave up. any thoughts on removal at this point? the gun has the camo paint so not sure how it will hold up to heating.

I’d start by soaking it with Kroil overnigt, some guys put it in a can and stand the barrel up in it.

After that there are varied methods, almost all of them include getting a really solid grip on the choke tube and tapping it out, some ever modify tube wrenches so they fit on air wrenches. - either way you have to have a really good fit to the tube so it doesn’t slip. Google it and look at the shotgun forums where more guys that do that work hang out.

One of the guys from Briley told me that their last resort tool is a big ease out for 3/4” bolts.

I'd bet KRoil will loosen it right up, the good stuff

Kroil is your friend, and maybe a little heat on the barrel (NOT HOT)

Had a Beretta 303 with a stuck choke

Tried it all, heat gun, soaked in Kroil, soaked in Diesel, soaked in Ed's Red

After messing with it in the evenings for about 2 weeks, I took a carbide bit and my Dremel tool and slowly cut a groove in the choke. Kept trying to break it free.
It finally came out.

The choke showed no signs of corrosion or rust. Threads in the barrel and on the choke were perfect.
I figured someone maybe shot steel thru it and swelled the choke slightly

These Beretta choke tool are made of good material. I took the T-handle out of mine , put a piece of nail in the hole for a pipe wrench to catch on.
Worked great

I bought two police trade in Benelli's that their armorer used some nasty black tar like substance to make sure the removable chokes would never come out on their own. I had to use a LOT of heat to get them out, sure wasn't no heat gun job.

Soak it standing in Kroil or another penetrating oil for a few days. Then find a solid steel cylinder slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the choke (so that it will slide down into it). It does not matter if the cylinder is 1/2" long or a few inches long, because all it is going to do is block the flame from your propane torch from shooting up your barrel and/or directly heating the barrel behind the choke. Use a cleaning rod or dowel as a backer for the cylinder (introduced from the breech end) to keep the cylinder in the right spot, i.e., from falling up the barrel. Position the cylinder so that the flame from your torch will hit the flat face of the cylinder, be turned 90 degrees (in all directions) and heat up the middle of the choke but NOT the barrel (except that the barrel will be heated indirectly, of course). The idea is to apply a LOT of heat to the choke without applying much to the barrel.

A minute or two of heating the choke this way is generally enough to free ANY choke without melting the solder that is holding the rib on. Obviously you have to keep the barrel slightly tilted up during the process to keep the cylinder from falling out.

My brother, the machinist, made a choke tool for the impact wrench.

Rem141r you get it out or what? Mb

I just read some of the replies and they are not reading what the OP wrote.

This is an EXTENDED ported choke tube that DOES NOT have notches for a choke tube wrench. It is screwed in by hand, not with a wrench.

OP, do you want to salvage the tube? Fuggh that, throw some vice grips on it.

You said you cannot use something substantial to put into the ports to turn it? Take that son of a bitch and put the tube in a drill press and drill STRAIGHT through the sides of the tube. Make the holes large enough (drill bit) to stick something "substantial" through both holes and then crank it out. Put something long enough in there to use both hands. Heat the end of the tube first after soaking it overnight.

You have an advantage it being an EXTENDED tube. It's up to you how bad you want it out.

Stick it muzzle down in a jar of Kroil for a week.

I soaked a choke tube for 3 days and all it did was remove the bluing from the end of the barrel from a choke tube rusted in place in a Remington 11/87 barrel....I did eventually had my auto mechanic remove the choke tube.

A Product called FREE ALL is a penetrating oil much better than Kroil. I have removed several by spraying it down in the barrel, then putting it in the threads as the barrel is standing up. ON the extended chokes, I will put 6 layers of tape on a long pair of channel Locks, and they come out.