I have a model 70 Featherweight 22-250 circa mid-80's and it shoots erratic patterns even when cooled between shots. I suspected uneven forend pressure and found that it is virtually free floated on the right side and is binding on the left side of the barrel channel nearly the full length. Should I relive wood on left side or 2] glass bed the whole thing?

Is the receiver glass bedded?

Try relieving barrel channel first.You will have to do that either way anyhow

Of course you want to glass bed it. During that period, Winchesters often had some sort of hot glue glopped into the recoil lug mortise but it hardly qualified as bedding. If it is properly bedded and, preferably, free floated, it will perform as it should. GD

Both... But I should add - first thing is to remove that hot glue crap that Win used for 'bedding' (assuming this is an untouched stock from the factory).. Then see how the action sits in the stock re: barrel channel.. If it's now centered, make sure there's no pressure point - especially near the fore-end tip.. Remove that. If it's still not centered then you'll have to remove a bit of barrel channel to keep the barrel from any contact. Then do a proper glass bed; I also ensure the bedding is included for the first 1-1.25" of the barrel shank..

As well as relieving the barrel channel and doing a proper pillar bedding job (the Model 70's have some quirks), make sure and pay attention to the center screw tightness as it will distort the action when tightened. If the center screw is too tight, it will show up on target as big groups with vertical.

I inlet a small pillar into the stock and eliminate the center screw altogether to avoid this issue. -Al

[/quote] Both... But I should add - first thing is to remove that hot glue crap that Win used for 'bedding' (assuming this is an untouched stock from the factory).. Then see how the action sits in the stock re: barrel channel.. If it's now centered, make sure there's no pressure point - especially near the fore-end tip.. Remove that. If it's still not centered then you'll have to remove a bit of barrel channel to keep the barrel from any contact. Then do a proper glass bed; I also ensure the bedding is included for the first 1-1.25" of the barrel shank..
[/quote]

Well, it reminded me of hot glue but I couldn't imagine anyone putting that mess in there!

Al,
Which center screw are you referring to? The screw at the forend of the trigger guard?

Yes.. That screw should be just 'snug', never tight...

Yes...the one at the front of the trigger guard.

As Mule Deer has advised several times.Place a plastic clip, like found on bread bags, between the front action screw and the recoil lug. Then shoot the rifle to check if problem still exist. This lifts the action up and gives you some indication of what is causing your problem. Older times, a piece of credit card was advised, but with John's method, the hole in the clip is the rightsize and stays put .

I bet there are lot of old guns in the filed that still have the plastic piece in them. It fixed the problem and guys never went back to glass bed it properly.

I must agree with what Redneck advised, but, if it had been bedded correctly in the first place it should not need any more that snugged up.

[/quote]


How "erratic" are we talking here? I would start by free-floating the barrel because you are going to want to do that no matter what. Also examine the crown with a strong magnifying glass and be sure there are no dings or anomalies on it. Then pillar and bed the recoil lug and action, with pillars. There is a person on eBay selling great pillars for Model 70's, if you are going to do it yourself.

And yes, it is a mistake to tighten that middle screw much at all. Just snug it enough that it doesn't rattle loose.

I have found bore sighters to be quite valuable for evaluating bedding. Install and note cross hair coordinates. Without removing or touching such, loosen all screws and check for movement. If anything shifts at all, one has some bedding issues affecting his receiver. One can do the same exercise in reverse starting with his uninstalled barreled action. Assemble and tighten screws and again check for any shifts.

When I bed a rifle, I prop everything up, put in my compounds, and sit the barreled action in the stock with no screws installed what so ever and let things cure. When I subsequently cinch everything down, there are no shifts at all.

Years back, I did an article for Precision Shooting that showed the pillared center screw modification on a Model 70 Heavy Varmint in 220 Swift.

Unfortunately, the pics were lost in the multiple Photobucket fiascos. -Al

One can either utilize the middle screw as a part of the bedding system or use it to simply hold the front of the trigger guard up. I like to bed at the center screw location but, no matter what you do, there won't be much in the way of bedding surface there. This is one situation where I like to use a metal pillar rather than just casting a glass pillar. I have a couple of Model 70's for which I made aluminum bedding blocks and, on those, I used the center screw as part of the bedding system and could torque it about the same as the rear screw. While this didn't hurt anything, I can't honestly say it helped either. In fact, one of the rifles has three different stocks. One is bedded on the aluminum block. One is bedded in Acraglas at three points. The last is bedded at front and rear only and the middle portion of the receiver was taped for clearance. It shoots about the same in all three stocks and shoots well in all of them. The use of a little insert to screw the front of the guard to is a good system.
The use of a boresighter is a good idea and I'm about half pissed off that I never thought of using it that way. I've used a dial indicator for forty-five years just because that's what we all did back in the day. GD

I’ve got a 257 Rob M70 of the same era with the yellow goo bedding compound. Mine was a 3” gun at best when I first shot it. I knew it couldn’t be that cruddy and something was afoot.

While I was at the range I slid my paper membership card along each side of the barrel noting with pencil where the binds were. After removing the stock I used my pocket knife drawing rearward carefully scraping what was mostly varnish away in a delicate smooth manner. When I reinstalled the stock I had very even space exactly a membership card thickness on each side. Shot 12 more shots and groups were around 1 1/2”. Further barrel channel inspection found the pressure point at the front underside of the barrel was actually pressing diagonally. I cut a plastic shim out of a carton and placed it under the recoil lug. This lifted the barrel enough to float the barrel without pressure. Next group was 3/4 moa. 20 more shots went under or at 1” - all at the range while folks were looking at me like I was nuts.

When I got back home I re-bedded without the shim & sealed up the channel.

My middle screw is just snug - I’ll have to try the collimating trick! Never heard of that but makes sense.

I bet yours benefits from the same kind of treatments - the barrels if that era are generally great.

Do you remember which year/month? I may have a copy and could probably replicate the photos.