At the range last Saturday, my groups started going to hell on my Weatherby Vanguard '06. Come to find out, my forward action screw had worked itself quite loose. What is the correct torque level I should use to tighten them back up? Thanks for your time.

https://weatherby.com/support/owners-manuals/

Thank you. As the Scarecrow said, "I shudda thought it with my brain!"

Only torque settings I ever read about for action screws was for my Joe Biden AR'a.....a 5.56 Ruger American Ranch Rifle I believe the manual called for 50 inch pounds.

It never occurred to me in the early years of rifle shooting. I think most of us just tightened action screws "farmer tight". In more recent years many of us have adopted torque specs.

After reading an article on Accurate Shooter website, I began to tune my rifles. As a general rule I will begin with 35 rear and 40 front and go up from there. My pillar bedded 300 RUM likes 50 in/lb front and rear but all the others like a bit less. 40 rear/45 front is most common.

https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/

I’ve never torqued anything on a gun.

I don't either. A properly glass bedded rifle doesn't need to be torqued down to an exacting figure. Scope bases and rings are fine just being tightened by feel, if you don't torque them down too hard. Maybe some guys need to use a torque wrench to keep from breaking stuff?? To MR. Chongo, if your action screws are backing out, I'd be properly glass bedding your rifle, as a rifle rocking back and forth in the stock, as we shoot it, can cause the action screws to back out. This is an indication the receiver is not sitting perfectly in the stock or the receiver is actually stressed/torqued, as the action screws are tightened. Another reason we glass bed our rifles..

I suspect a lot of the specs on manufacturer’s action screw torque are a reaction to the demand for them. My guns get “tight” on the front, a little less in the back. No doubt accuracy goes to hell when they are loose, but I’m dubious of the necessity to meet a particular torque.

I don’t use a torque wrench either. I tighten the front and back the middle, if there is one, I tighten then back off.
One thing I do is put my hand around the fore end and if the barrel moves as I tighten the back or middle I may be looking at re-bedding.

Not torquing? You’ll never get your best accuracy.

Not torqueing is like timing an engine by ear. It might work but not optimal.

These days a torque screwdriver is an easy purchase, is no harder to use than a standard screwdriver.
I think it is a essential tool for a nuts and bolts firearm guy.
Why would a guy who expects top results when accurizing his rifle, not spend the 100.00? ( or less)
Maybe those who go by on the cheap also have little need for a powder measure- why not fill the case approximately the same amount by eye ...and then seat the bullet by feel.
I am going by memory but generally bedding screws at around 30# rings and bases at 15 # . Rotationally, tighten . Machine screws have their limits.

If you want consistency, accurate tightening the guard screws will be a start. Many years ago I had issues with two rifles, a Remington M7 and a Winchester Featherweight. I called both companies for guidance on torque values. I don't know that the information I was given was a considered opinion of the support tech with whom I spoke, or an official suggestion of each company. Winchester suggested 45 in/lbs for the front screw and 8 in/lbs for the rear. Remington suggested 35 in/lbs for the front, and "tight enough to keep it in" for the rear. I wanted to be sure so as a general rule for me on either wood or composite stocks, I have used 55 in/lbs front and 12 in/lbs rear. They stay at that.

I’ve torqued my rifles with the torque wrench to values “recommended” by manufacturers, and torqued “tight” as described above, and seen no difference in accuracy. I also know of at least two major top drawer custom rifle makers, both now deceased, who didn’t do it and chuckled at those who thought it mattered. If it makes you happy and you are convinced it works, I’m all for you. My experience has shown me it does not.

And the analogy to tuning a car’s engine just doesn’t hold up. Way different things; an analogy is the worst form of an argument.

As pointed out many times, if you can 'tune' your rifle and/or change the p.o.i. by varying the torque on the action screws....you've just demonstrated that the bedding needs attention.

Good shootin'. -Al

Yes.......

I wound up buying a torque wrench after I went down the rabbit hole on reaming and lapping scope rings. Might as well torque the screws too since they're so small. I was having all kinds of problems with scope screws coming loose even after being tightened to the point where they started leaving marks on the scope. Not wanting to strip them was the motivator there, and believe me, I could strip them out in my sleep! I used to torque the flywheel bolts on a Top Fuel car to 270ft/lbs with one hand

I torque them all now since there's no reason no too.

Absolutely

And for those who torque do you run your figures dry or lubricated?

Mini Torque tools are great...just not ready to put one on a slotted gun screw.

They come with hollow ground bits…….and fitted to the appropriate screw…