I used modeling clay, per the directions with Acra-Glass, to prevent the bedding from getting into the area around the trigger. Any tricks for getting it out of the nooks and crannys?

Toothbrush and acetone.

MtnHtr

I've got both of those. Thanks

Acetone may consume ones toothbrush. I'd go the mineral oil route.

Not saying it can't happen but it's not happened yet with about 20 toothbrushes (guessestimate).

MtnHtr

You mean mineral spirits, the paint thinner? That's what I have used with oil based clays which is most of them. Acetone attacks a lot of plastics including epoxy, albeit slowly. Mineral spirits doesn't attack much, except Krylon and maybe other common spray paints.

Have had acetone attack dollar store toothbrushes which are great for guns but hell on gums.

Small tip: Next time, use Silly Putty from the toy store. Strips out and leaves no residue, and can be used "forever" (well, mine seems to just keep going and going).

John

Or use PlayDough next time. But, I use WD40 to get behind and loosen clay.

This topic has been discussed before.

I have found that some kids' modeling clay is greasy and hard to remove. I have had better luck with the kind sold at art supply stores. It is stiffer and less greasy. I also use beeswax to plug certain areas.

I am very leery of using anything exotic that might contain silicone. Silicone will prevent finishes and bedding compounds from adhering, and is heck to remove, even from steel. It can even mess up a blue job or stock finishing job down the road.

Paul

I know this isn't fair, cause it's too easy. If you or your neighbor has got a chest freezer? Just put the stock in the freezer and wait a couple of hours. The clay freezes and pops out easily.

compressed air and safety glasses..works for me

sixbits,

If you freeze the whole shebang in order to harden up the clay, aren't you going to end up with condensation in every nook and cranny, including the bore?

Maybe I'm missing something, but it would seem that you're making extra work for yourself in order to deal with the minor problem of getting the clay out.

Paul

Toothpicks, patience, and maybe a little lacquer thinner.

The next time, use the clay in open areas, and pack paste wax into the nooks, crannies, and threaded holes.

.

Swipe some of the kids play dough, it cleans easily and if left to dry will just fall out. Cleaning out modeling clay is why I used to dread glass bedding.

Take a can of compressed air and turn it upside down. The liquid spraying out will freeze the clay on contact and then it pops right out with very little effort.

I've never had that kind of problem. My shop is heated. Maybe if you were doing this outback, it would be a problem? We even have indoor plumbing here. Saves those cold walks outback. Probably and unfair advantage to some and just a level of comfort to others, but I like it.


By the by, you might want to consider removing the barreled action before (let me stress) before you put it in the freezer or for that matter try to remove the clay. Makes for much easier removal of the clay.

Watch out for Play-Doh (or however you spell it). I used some that my kids made at home, which it turns out is like 60% salt. It will start discoloring your rifle finish if you let it sit for too long.

sixbits,

Not trying to be argumentative, but that's fine if you know and can control your environment. I know one very knowledgable shooter who carried a rifle from an air conditioned outbuilding shop into his house, and found later that the bore had rusted from the moisture picked up in the trip across the yard. This was in MS, very humid.

Bluedreaux's caution about the Play-Doh illustrates what I said about being careful about the contents of these various products, silicone being my main concern. That's why I use art store modeling clay. It seems fairly neutral and non-greasy.

As an aside, as an amateur stock finisher I have become leery of using common erasers to back sandpaper. You can't count on their being rubber anymore, and I wonder particularly about silicone. I've had them melt and become slimy from normal finishing solvents like mineral spirits.

None of these modern manufacturing materials seem good for finishes and bedding materials. That's why I prefer old fashioned low tech stuff like beeswax, floor wax, and the like.

Paul