The #8 countour will not fit, need to gouge it out.
What works best? I have a hand router but can't quite honestly see how I could do it with that.
What works best? I have a hand router but can't quite honestly see how I could do it with that.
I bought one of the Gunline barrel bedding tools Brownells sells them and I'm sure other places do too. It works great for knocking down high spots quickly. Pretty reasonably priced also.
I have used wooden dowels wrapped with sandpaper to relieve the barrel channels on my stocks. You can vary the coarseness of the sandpaper depending on how much and how quick you want to open up the channel.
Originally Posted by DixieFreedomz
The #8 countour will not fit, need to gouge it out.
What works best? I have a hand router but can't quite honestly see how I could do it with that.
What works best? I have a hand router but can't quite honestly see how I could do it with that.
Question? Wood or plastic stock? Do you own a mill? A channel rasp works vary well for wood. Plastic? That comes harder, as I use a ball end mill, on a knee mill.
Originally Posted by dodgefan
I bought one of the Gunline barrel bedding tools Brownells sells them and I'm sure other places do too. It works great for knocking down high spots quickly. Pretty reasonably priced also.
I use the Gunline Jr Kit . I have opened a couple laminated stocks inletted for a mountain rifle barrel to a magnum contour in a very short period of time. Although, if I did it as a profession I'd get the individual sized cutters.
RH
Some inletting black and the channel scrappers available from Midway are the way to go if one wants a fine fit. Just sanding and eyeballing will work, but one may end up with a post-64 Winchester fit.
You mean free-floated? 
Sitka Deer: "Free floated????" No. More like completely suspended in n-dimensional hyperspace.
Originally Posted by tgrif
I have used wooden dowels wrapped with sandpaper to relieve the barrel channels on my stocks. You can vary the coarseness of the sandpaper depending on how much and how quick you want to open up the channel.
+1
That's what I use to do the job, and the results are fine.
I start with good 80 grit paper, then end the job at about 150 to 220 grit. This isn't a complex job requiring machine tools if you don't happen to have them.
Don
Some bright red lipstcik works as well if not better than blackening.
Usually the sandpaper and dowel only works if you have .010-.030 or so to take off.. I'd suggest in investing in some tools for the job or paying someone to do it if it is only a one time thing.
When cutting the laminate, be very careful and take small cuts. The laminates tend to strip off just before the glue line and then you have a problem. Each side of the barrel channel will usually have the grain running in the oposite direction.So you may need to cut towards the chamber end on one side and towards the muzzle end on the other side.
The glue is hell on tool sharpness,so stop often and resharpen.
Usually the sandpaper and dowel only works if you have .010-.030 or so to take off.. I'd suggest in investing in some tools for the job or paying someone to do it if it is only a one time thing.
When cutting the laminate, be very careful and take small cuts. The laminates tend to strip off just before the glue line and then you have a problem. Each side of the barrel channel will usually have the grain running in the oposite direction.So you may need to cut towards the chamber end on one side and towards the muzzle end on the other side.
The glue is hell on tool sharpness,so stop often and resharpen.
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Some bright red lipstcik works as well if not better than blackening.
Usually the sandpaper and dowel only works if you have .010-.030 or so to take off.. I'd suggest in investing in some tools for the job or paying someone to do it if it is only a one time thing.
When cutting the laminate, be very careful and take small cuts. The laminates tend to strip off just before the glue line and then you have a problem. Each side of the barrel channel will usually have the grain running in the oposite direction.So you may need to cut towards the chamber end on one side and towards the muzzle end on the other side.
The glue is hell on tool sharpness,so stop often and resharpen.
Usually the sandpaper and dowel only works if you have .010-.030 or so to take off.. I'd suggest in investing in some tools for the job or paying someone to do it if it is only a one time thing.
When cutting the laminate, be very careful and take small cuts. The laminates tend to strip off just before the glue line and then you have a problem. Each side of the barrel channel will usually have the grain running in the oposite direction.So you may need to cut towards the chamber end on one side and towards the muzzle end on the other side.
The glue is hell on tool sharpness,so stop often and resharpen.
Good advice!!!