My son's 7-08 has a loose sling stud. I want to keep it rotated in the proper position for the sling, but I guess the screw hole is buggered up in the wood. Can I just remove the stud and put a drop of epoxy in the hole, thn replace the stud to the proper position?
Is it the front or rear stud?
Different fixes for each.
If it's the rear stud, you can fill up the oversize hole with some slivers of hard wood, then use Elmer's white glue (or similar wood working glue) to repostion the stud correctly. If you use epoxy, which will work, you won't be able to remove the stud easily in the fiture.
Don
It is the front stud. Prolly have no plans to remove the stud down the road. Rifle is a browning A Bolt- Micro Medallion.
Some front studs have cut out in the forearm iside the barrel channel that a recieving nut fits in.The wood gets worn or shrinks and lets the nut turn when the stud wants to swivel.In those cases,I take some glass bedding compund and secure the nut in that cutout/ making sure the nut nor beding contacts the barrel.
Some cases ,I very carefully drill out the hole that the stud screwed into and glue a piece of walnut dowel in.Let dry and then redril a pilot hole to screw the sling swivel stud back in.
Make sure the glue sets up at least 34 hours and the hole to put the dowel into is no bigger than the head of the sling swivel stud so the repair cannot beseen
Hell, I'd just wait until I had some epoxy mixed up for another job and put a dab on the threads, make sure it was lined up straight, and call it good.
I still cannot imagine why the MIchael's QD100 swivels are not the only thing going... The stud sticking out there does no good and I have seen more than one bench problem caused by them.
The flush mount style is slicker, quieter and as far as I have seen 100% reliable. I bought 100 tubes direct from Uncle Mike's for about $75 and they will last me a very long time!
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=8892&title=UNCLE%20MIKE'S%20QD%20100%20SLING%20SWIVEL
Hey, I have never seen those before. So the tube gets epoxied in the former stud hole? Slick!
I've got an A-bolt that had the same problem. Wasn't sure what was going on and in 2007 as my dad was taking my rifle back to the truck the stud pulled out while he had it slung on his shoulder. He caught it before it touched down. There is a metal "nut" pressed inside the stock that threads onto the stud. It had completely stripped out. Nut was tight in the wood. My gunsmith said it wasn't the first Browning he'd seen this happen on. I'd get down and get it fixed. Smith charged me all of $12 to replace mine with one he had on hand.
I'd just add some epoxy and call it good. I did put Pachmayer flush mounts on my model 70 Featherweight though.Hey SitkaDeer. I like the Uncle Mike's tubes also but how do you install them to match the contour of a stock such as the featherweight's? Do you sink them below the curve of the wood or can you put a radiius on them?
Yeah, that's what I am going to do. The stud is not stripped out because I can tighten it, it just does not line up anymore. It goes a 1/4 past center.
2 part epoxy it is.
Wax the stud before inserting it or it will be a real problem to fix the next time it strips out... Lots of force concentrated on those studs...
All of which is why I like the QD100 set-up.
Dealing with round surfaces and a flat tube mouth is a problem. I have built small flats on the belly of the buttstock to allow them to go in flush, but that defeats the purpose of the smooth stock when the sling is off...
On factory stocks I split the difference between top and bottom and cover the exposed wood endgrain with epoxy. I usually bed them in epoxy.
I have cut a crosswise trough to bed them down in so they came up flush, but that was drastic and I did not like it when done.
art
coat the screw with Johnsons paste wax if you think you might ever want to remove it and do the 2 part epoxy thing, otherwise skip the wax and it will be permanent