I just bought a Ruger M77 MkII in 6.5X55, and the second thing I noticed (the trigger first, of course) is that the bolt isn't as smooth as my old tang safety Ruger M77, or even as smooth as a new M70. I haven't even shot it yet, so I don't know if it'll be worth working on, but if it is, can the bolt be made to operate more smoothly? If so, is it something a nine-thumbed person can do? It's not a bad feel, it's just that it isn't oil between two pieces of glass feel.

Jaywalker

does the bolt drag across the magazine follower? seems like that was a major area when i had my last 77. it ihas only been about 4 years.

I found that with my Ruger and my M70 winchester a good, long wearing grease in the right places and lots of cycling, the actions slicked up very nicely in time.
I like the Tetra Gun grease for this job, but other products work as well. Try to find where the bolt is dragging and apply it thinly. If you really want a glass slick action quickly, try a PM to JJHack. He has a way to make such actions really slick using fine lapping compounds of some kind. I don't recall the details of just how he has done this. E

Suicycle,

Strange, I don't know whether the bolt's dragging on the follower - I had assumed it was on the rails. Tonight, I'll drop the floorplate and check.



E,

Also odd, I really never considered removing the dragging with grease - I was focused on knocking down the high points before greasing it. You're right, though - it might not need it.



I've considered lapping compound, but the thought of trying to get it all out after I was done discourages me. (Image of me holding a garden hose on the action, barrel, and lugs...) Someone else suggested JB's, because it isn't as hard to remove.



Jaywalker

I just picked up my boys Ruger Mk II .243 SS/Lam. today. I too noticed the bolt does not operate too smoothly. It is smooth for the first third of travel, the middle third is hard, then the last third is smooth again. I have'nt had time to really look at it yet but I did look hard enough to see that it is'nt hitting the magazine follower. The lugs and raceway are smooth enough for a factory rifle. I then took notice of the blade ejector and slot in the bottom of the bolt that ramps the ejector blade down or up. As the bolt slides forward everything is fine until until the blade gets to the very back of the slot and is in the fully down position. Then there is some resistance. After an inch of travel the bolt frees up and slides freely again for the last third of travel. And the same thing in reverse. If you work the bolt robustly it is no big deal and will probally wear in but I'm going to take a harder look at what goes on under there tomorrow when I take the action out of the stock to work on the trigger.
I'm wondering if yours is doing the same thing.

I just took a harder look at mine and mine is definately caused by the ejector blade dragging on the bottom of the bolt.
Once it gets by where the ring from the extractor goes around the bolt it slides nice again. Looks to me like the slot should'nt curve down so abrubtly and maybe polishing the top of the ejector blade will help smooth things up as well.

It could be, but mine is now Down Awaiting Parts, due to a thumb-fingered would-be 'smith who clipped one too many coils off of the trigger-sear spring. When the new spring comes in the mail, I'll reassemble - ah, "ask the 'smith to reassemble" - it, and I'll try the blade for drag.

Jaywalker

hey walker
let me know how you like it i am looking at one at a local shop right now.

BB

I think they're an under-rated rifle - a good design and (probably) accurate, after some easy tweaks. (It's for learning how to do those tweaks that I bought it.) I wanted a 6.5X55, so I was basically going to buy it or a Win M70 FWT; for $489, it's a fine rifle. The trigger is modular, and was simple to remove. Whether I eventually like it or not depends upon how the lower level of finish wears on me - it isn't up to M70 standards. If I can get it to shoot into a half inch, I'll pay somebody to re-blue it.



I shot it this past weekend, and it performed about as I expected it to - with no tweaks, two inches at 100 yards. I think this is probably excellent, since I used Remington 140 g CoreLokts, which the magazines typically show as a two-inch performer, even in a rifle that shoots sub-MOA with better loadings. I think it has definte promise and I'm glad I bought it.



Jaywalker

FVA,

I think you're right. Mine's back together now, and the drag is from the ejector. It's never going to be Sako-smooth, but a little polishing the ejector should help. At least I won't have to clean lapping compound out od the lug slots - thanks.

Jaywalker

My SS Ruger was the same way when I got it. My solution was a Dremel with a small cotton wheel that Dremel sells, kinda like a tiny buffing pad. I loaded this wheel with fine lapping compound, and used it to polish all the action I could get to, then I polished the bolt. Still isn't a glassy smooth action, but when held next to my dad's unpolished gun the difference is very noticible.

I've since used this same method to clen up a couple of other guns that were less than great from the factory.-KT28

Believe it or not, but toothpaste works good in a pinch for smoothing an action.

Well, I was wrong. I should never say "definately".

Upon looking at mine closer what is causing the binding 1/3 open and going away after the second third of travel is the ring from the extractor that goes around the bolt is slightly bigger than the bolt. It rubs slightly on the top of the rear bridge. Probally a little honing or sanding in that area would fix it right up. But even though it is freezing out my boy and I have been shooting it and it is loosening up so it is not a priority right now.

Mine seems to be smoother, also. The trigger is now better - 3.5# - so maybe that's lending a glow to it so that I don't notice the bolt any longer. It isn't smooth, and probably never will be, but I don't notice it as much.

Jaywalker