I dont remember if linking to ebay is bad, so delete with my apologies.
Not mine, nor do I know the guy.
But I do routinely surf the web for gunsmith tools.

MMC checkering setup- foredom, foot pedal, shaft tool head/cutter.
Looks very clean- and very old.
I love mine, dont need another one inspite of how cool another checkering tool setup would look at the other end of the bench.
Stay warm, stay safe CWG

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gunsmith-Foredo...tZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e59ecf51e

CWG, I saw that setup yesterday, and figured I will watch it and see what happens. Do you find your electronic setup easier to use than hand tools, how much quicker is it? I'm still dabeling and learning. Do you use a magnifying headset?

How much quicker? 4-6 times I'd say.
Not sure if its easier, its different. I use both my MMC and hand tools, from 1 to 3 line cutters. And a few custom made ones, or modified more accurately.
The see thru handles get the nod regardless.

I have used the MMC tools for 40 years and it is the only way to go. I can cut straighter lines and it is faster to use. You still need to use the hand tools at times. Get the Carbide hand cutters as well. If the prices doesn't go too high I would recommend this if you are doing lots of stocks. I have checkered point patterns in about 8 hrs from the start to the finish. The MMC is used spacing the lines to about 3/4 finished. Finish up with the carbide hand tools. The longer carbide hand cutter is better to help straighten you lines.

If you were farming and had a lot of rows to plow would you use a mule? I would use the power tractor and the same thing applies to checkering.

One of the problems I seem to be having is keeping the lines really straight. I noticed that half the battle is good layout, without that your doomed from the begining. Then I seem to struggle with consistent line spacing.

cs, its practice.
Like mowing grass or anything else, straight lines come from practice.

LG, I bought mine from the ol' man and had his son rebuild it.
Mines like new for el' cheapo. Its a GREAT investment if you checker more than one stock a year.

I've been playing around with one. I sem to get straighter patterns with it. I do all the line spacing with it then finish with hand tools. Do some of you do more than one pass with the MMC?

Here is a picture of me checkering a forearm. Note that the lines going around a center section must be kept inline to meet on the other side. I use guide lines on the stock for referance which are drawn over the pattern before I start to cut. I use a clear ruler with lines so I can see through the plastic and try to kept straight. I usually ran the first pass to make all the cuts in one direction and then reverse the stock and make another lighter pass in the oposite direction before I go to the hand tools. Note the red air pipe on the bottom to clear the dust away. I don't have to stop to clear the lines of the dust and can keep a dust mask on my face.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/10276P1010337.JPG

Gotta get this one shipped tomorrow.
make two passes with MMC, then make another four passes or so with various hand cutters

I need a better camera
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ODLmTNmDK8

I used an MMC setup for years, I now use the D-3 but the checkering head and guide setup is very similar. Because the electric tool is guided by the previous line you cut, if this line wavers the next one will waver even worse, and so on...I use the carbide hand tools[push version] to straighten out any wavy lines before making the next one. After it is fully spaced it is usually smooth sailing after that. I make 2 passes each way, and then finish up the outlines and go over the entire pattern with the hand tools, Using a short"pull" tool in the corners.

Here is my setup. Notice the rotating head and adjustable position on the cradle so I can move it to any place inorder to be in a more relaxed position. You can change ends in seconds and cut the reverse direction. This tool is made up with 2 X 2 square tube steel and a couple of bearings inside. It has a brake inside on the rotating shaft. I use the Ngraver tool to clean up the ends and under power there isn't a stress on the hand pushing the V cuter.

I see one thing I need to invest in, a good headset magnifier. Anyone have any suggestions on one?

The Opti-visor brand is commonly available and of good quality. [available from Brownells, also modelmakers and jeweler's supply]I used to use a couple different power Optivisors, now I use mostly drugstore reading glasses in2x, 2.5x and 2.75x depending on the job. Quality varies widely on these cheap imported items though...