Awright Sitka:

Now ya done it. You've piqued my interest AGAIN.

If'n ya were to attempt to do it, what do you think would be the best approach, to apply the superglue? I have used all of the forms of the cyanoacrylates over the last 30 years, in my other hobbies. I am keenly aware of how thin and how fast the 'thin' S/G's run. I can not picture wiping or using a paint brush to apply. I don't know whether I'd use the accelerator on the first coat, only because when it hits that S/G, it will set up RIGHT NOW. I think I'd wait until it had thoroughly penetrated as deeply as possible. Yes, I too have used the baking soda/water mix, but I think That the regular accelerator works better. And I know that I would certainly have a bottle of Debonder close at hand(pun intended). I did manage to glue two of my fingers together, putting an assembly together a few years ago. I have never had any kind of finish that did not adhere well to it, so it should work well in this application.

Mike
I have tried it on a number of test pieces and would suggest you do the same on pieces of the exact wood you will be using. On end grain I found a pre-treat with accelerator and a short wait before applying the SG worked very well.

On fine grained stuff I found that it was best to just coat it and let it set up on its own. In between the extremes I would tend toward a pre-treat on more porous stuff to prevent using a gallon of the stuff on a stock. On the whole I would tend not to pre-treat unless forced to.

On a one-inch cube I have measured shrinkage up to .015, AFTER a surface film, so shrinkage is real and sizeable.

I liked the luster I got on small sample pieces with no other finish on top. Dead-smooth eggshell with 1200 wet-or-dry, wet, followed by rottenstone and linseed oil and then rub the oil off as completely as possible... it really blew my dress up!

Hope this helps... Would love to learn what you find as I have not yet developed the courage to go that route <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />
art