I'm stumped. I just picked up a later model 760 Gamemaster (mid '70s?) that has the black-tip forend held in place by a screw at the front.

Everything I've read indicates that the removal of this screw should allow me to slide the forend off. However it simply won't budge. I've put a little penetrating oil on the internal wood/metal contact surfaces, but still no go. Any suggestions guys? I don't want to bugger up the wood.

I'm buffering the bolt with a bunched up sock so that I'm not slamming metal on metal as I try to break the forend free. I need to get the forend off in order to unscrew the action tube and get the rest of the internals out of the receiver so that I can clean it thoroughly.

They usally will come off if you undo front screw, then hold forearm tight and cycle action several times. They can be tight,
but I have always been able to remove them by cyling action briskly. You could use a fired brass to buffer bolt
that may be enough to break forearm free.

Sheeeeesh... Took a flat bastard (literally), but I got it off. I was able to sneak the flat end of a medium file in between the ring on the action tube and the body of the forend. A little judicious tapping and it finally pushed off. It was welded to that ring pretty tightly. I think I'll buff the inside of the tube channel on the forend and wax it before I put it back together. I've got the tube soaking up some CLP right now and I'll smooth the surface up with some steel wool a little later. Might have to apply a little OXPHO cold blue after that.

Now for the tough part. The action tube won't budge either. I already busted a punch trying to spin it off. I'm thinking it might be loc-tited so I'm going to hit it with some heat from my heat gun. I've got some penetrating oil working on it now as well.

It's a peach of a rifle, but I don't think it has ever been taken down for maintenance.

if it is the first time it has ever been dis assembled you may need heat on the tube to turn it off the stud from the action as i believe remington has some type of thread locking compound on it.
i found getting a piece of steel that filled the holes in the tube applies more force to the tube without deformation better than a tapered or undersized punch.

I just did this to a 1953 model that Im sure had never been apart. Soak it in some kroll over night too, stuff is magic. Might also consider a strap to turn the forend tube off too, that worked magic on mine.

Good ideas guys. I cut the tip off of a hard-chromed screwdriver and the shaft fills the holes perfectly. Got some Kroil soaking in right now. If that doesn't do the trick then I'll hit it with the heat gun tomorrow.

Can't wait to get it to the Range. I found some 10-round metal clips for it at Cheaper-Than-Dirt. I'm going to polish the sear/trigger contact points before I take it out and see if I can get a little crisper break.