I want to build a .358 Winchester 'brush gun,' for lack of a better term. What is the shortest practical barrel that won't be spitting unburned powder? Nosler shows RL7 as their most accurate powder pushing a 225gr bullet out of a 23" barrel at only 2200fps +/-. So I'm guessing I'd stick with a fast powder. The 1 in 14" barrel twist would need how much length to stabilize, say, a 220gr Speer HotCor? I'd be interested to know what those more learned in the field have to say. Thanks.

Most of the guys here like 20 or 21 but I like 22in. Not much difference in any of the 3. I just like 22 because the 358 isn't a barn burner velocity wise to begin with. powdr

Most of the guys here like 20 or 21 but I like 22in. Not much difference in any of the 3. I just like 22 because the 358 isn't a barn burner velocity wise to begin with. powdr

I would think a 18" barrel would be ok. I have a Savage 99 that has a 17 1/4" barrel shortened due to damage. That is past history and it has always got one shot kills on whitetail. A 200 gr .358 bullet is "pre-expanded" compared to the .308!

I shoot a 30-06, 350 Rem mag, and 375 Ruger, all with 20" barrels. I don't see why it wouldn't work with a 358 winnie as well. A short barrel like 18" or 20" sure is nice for packing in the brush.

I have a 22" barrel on a Savage bolt action. Some of my whitetail hunting is done from a ground blind. I often wish I had a 20" barrel on the rifle. I shoot 200 grain Hornady Spitzers and have used 225 grain Partitions for black bear. You might want to try IMR 4064. It is a very accurate powder in my .358.

I don't believe i would want to go under 20 inch's if i was building a 358 Win

The .358 Winchester rifles of mine with 22" barrels have carried just fine in VT for the last half century.

I have a couple of euro bolt rifles with 20.5" barrels and that length seems a little short to me and no advantage.

The bottom two rifles are .358's.

On barrel length: All the powder will be burned within a few inches of the chamber. You'll get more velocity with a longer barrel because there's still enough pressure to accelerate the bullet, but the difference isn't worth fretting over IMHO. Choose the barrel length on how you want the rifle to handle. A longer barrel isn't going to have much influence on how long of a bullet you can stabilize. Always go faster twist when in doubt.

I learn so much on The 'Fire, and I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks!

I have come to view the perfect barrel length more as personal preference rather that any practical advantage one way or the other...

Some guys like short barrels and some guys like long barrels and some guys are forever trying to find the "perfect" compromise.

It's YOUR money, build what pleases YOU! If you build what pleases someone else, they will love it. Which does you absolutely NO good.

The .358 Win is likely my personal favorite as a hunting rifle. I have 3; w/20" barrels, 2; with 22" bbls, and 1 w/26" bbl. Guess I ought to build one with a 24" just to even things out...

Personally, I believe that the rate of twist is far more important than the barrel length OR the resultant muzzle velocity. As has been previously stated, if you must err, err on the fast side. A 1~12" twist will shoot light bullets better than a 1~16" twist will shoot heavy bullets.

GH

Mine goes 20" and it has delivered just fine using the 200 gr TTSX. The one on the middle below with the two others that all made a trip to Africa in 2012.

As you can see chongo it's all over the map w/the majority going for the shorter barrels. I can tell you anything shorter than 21 is going to have an unpleasant muzzle blast. Shoot for 21 or 22 and it won't be a hindrance in velocity or muzzle blast. powdr

Hmmm. Hadn't thought about the noise part....
Maybe I should have it bobbed and threaded for a recoil/noise suppressor.

That's a purdy rifle...
Is the front sight aftermarket? If so, what is it? I've got a Mauser .308 build with a Norwegian aftermarket barrel that needs something like it.

Aside from the legal hoops you'll need to jump through to get one, you'll need to know if it's legal to use while hunting wherever you go.

In addition to the legal implications (can't even own one let alone hunt with it in MN) I was under the impression that this was going to be a light fast handling rifle. Having a big ol can on the end of the barrel isn't exactly going to help with that. Don't get me wrong; I'd love to own a suppressor, but it would go on a heavy barreled varmint rifle that I use pretty much exclusively for prairie dogs. I suppose if I had one, I'd have more than one barrel threaded for it.

Mine is 21" and I'm very happy with it. Noise from it seems a bit less than the noise from a 22" .308.

Always thought a 7CDL with a 22" tube bored to 35 would make a dandy classy 358. If your flying 700 would do TI stock 22" .6 at the muzzle. Maybe a wyatts box to run the AB'a or TTsx's if so inclined.

Never saw a need for under 22".

W

Noise can indeed be a factor.
I'd personally worry more about how the shorter barrel made the rifle balance....

Mine is a full stock Sako L597 with a 20" barrel. It is what it is and a joy to use. If I were to build another, it would be a half stock rifle with a 22".
The longer tube hangs better and is just easier to shoot IMHO.

16-20 incher's are my favorites yes muzzle blasts go up with shorter barrels but for brush and woods hunting the shorter rifles handle better. I run a faster powder for the shorter barrels helps with the flash and velocity. Just use your hearing protection when targeting. Believe me, you won't notice the muzzle blast when killing that trophy deer or elk, I never did.