I've been messing around refinishing stocks over the past few years and still can't seem to get them just right. I think for the most part I have everything down except the last coat/step of the whole process. I usually have very small streaks that can be seen when you hold it at the right angle under a light. I think this is from the final coat that I put on, almost like it smears or streaks a little.

So what do you do as your last step to buff out or get that even finish.

Thanks

What are you using as a finish?

I've tried a couple different products but they have all been some type of oil. Boiled linseed oil, tru oil, and laurel mountain forge's permalyn.

I am sort of thinking about using some type of spray finish as my lost coat or two. Any thoughts on this?

I normally use Pro Custom Oil and when I'm ready for the final finish, I get just a drop of oil on the tip of a finger and try to spread it as far as I can on a small area. Then I use the heel of my hand to rub it further. Repeat until the entire stock is done. You'll probably want to do this 3-4 times, maybe 1 or 2 more times depending on the amount of gloss you want.
Phil

At least the last few final coats, apply and then wipe dry.
Keep doing this until you are satisfied with the finish.
Most get impatient and give up before this occurs.

Let the finish set a few weeks to completely harden and then buff out with pumice/mineral oil or rubbing compound to get the luster you desire.

The final steps are what sets the true stock finisher apart from the the bubbas.

Wax

I don't like to rub out a stock using pumice powder and rottenstone because it seems to me it tends to mute some of the natural colors in the wood. By using the method I described above, the sharpness of the colors and figure is not compromised. However, to each his own and I'm sure my method is not the only way.


One thing I do know for certain is that all stock builders are always looking for a better way to finish stocks.
Phil

Check out Timberluxe, I've just completed a 52B Sporter stock using their stain anc finish. Didn't have to strip the original finish, just one application of stain and two of finish. It is the easiest to use finish I've ever tried and I am completely satisfied with result. No sanding, rubbing out or any other steps, just apply their product per instructions and the finish looks like Winchester's factory finish. Their website has both a video and written instructions, try it you will be pleased.

A final wet sanding using 600 grit paper and paraffin oil on a red eraser to save your edges and level out your finish. Then I use pumice and rottenstone on a felt block with paraffin oil with excellent results. Finally, a coat of paste wax. It's real important to give your final finish a week or two to harden before taking these final steps, though.

As TenX said.

Indeed ,leaving a high gloss will show up the wood grain better.

I have had better luck not using any semi gloss or matte finish compounds and buffing it the desired luster as I described. It's all in how you want it to end up. No wrong way, just personal preferences.

It sounds to me like you're putting the final coat on and not doing anything afterward. After the final coat, you should cut it back with VERY FINE sandpaper (I stay away from steel wool because it will leave little pieces on the stock), at least 800 grit, and 1200 grit is probably better. You sand until everything is very smooth. Then you use a rubbing compound to bring out the final finish. Brownells has 3-4 different grades of stock rubbing compound that work very well. The rubbing compound works best for me with an old cotton t-shirt. When done, everything ought to be smooth as glass and the amount of "gloss" to the stock ought to be determined by how much you have polished the oil finish.

But to ever get there, you have to have properly sealed the grain first, then layer your oil good and thick until there are no dimples in the grain (which indicate you grain is not fully sealed). Often when you properly seal the grain, you will still find a few little spots that didn't seal right, and that can be sealed by just adding enough stock oil until it does seal.

I like to use an epoxy finish to seal the grain. I apply it with a foam applicator evenly on the stock and give it a couple of days to dry. Then I cut it all back to the grain with fine sandpaper. After the sealing, that's when the coats of oil start. I apply it very liberally with my hand (no cloth), and slather it good and thick, but not so thick that it's running in any area. Don't worry too much about streaks (but don't be reckless) until it's time to cut it all back and put the final polish on.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll have to give them a try.

With the wax, do you just use something like johnsons paste wax and some steel wool?

If your final rub out with pumice and rottenstone are clouding your finish and muting colors, your finish is too thick and is not a true hand rubbed finish. Might as well use spray poly if you are going for the Browning or Remington factory look. GunGeek makes some good points, but I don't feel that slathering is one of them. JMHO

I can't agree. I think the reason for the muting of the colors and grain are caused by the light catching in the very minute scratches created by the pumice and rottenstone. My method is not even close to your suggestion about spray poly. I've rubbed a bunch of 'em, and in my humble opinion, not rubbing is better.
FWIW
Phil

One might also tell the readers what his application process is.

1Minute
My application is in my post back on the first page of this thread. But what I do is when I'm ready for the final finishing coats and the filling coats of finish are sanded with 600, I just get a small dot of finish on my finger tip and apply it to a small area of the stock. I try to spread it as far as I can, then I rub it with the heel of my hand. I continue the same process until the entire stock is covered. You can control the degree of gloss you want by the number of coats you apply in this manner. I'm usually done after 3-4 coats.
Phil

Sorry. I thought I was quizzing TheBigCheese about his process, and I'm still not sure about his applications. Hand rubbed for me, but I rub until the stock feels dry. I start with 2 thinned sealing coats. For any depth at all I typically need about 15 to 20 coats. The first 10 to 12 simply fill the pores.

In the latter stages 2 or 3 drops are all that's needed for full coverage. With that minimal amount, runs or streaks are near impossible to generate.

I let each coat dry for about a week and lightly use 600 grit paper between. Sanding generates a white powder. If ones paper gums at all, then the finish has not cured.

A final sanding with 1000 grit and some wax, and I quit.

Most of all I find patience is the answer.

Speaking of wax (you guys all probably know this but I just found it, I'm usually behind everyone else), I have found Renaissance wax to be the best thing since sliced bread. I use it on the entire gun, wood and metal. It is pricey but goes a long ways.
Phil

My process has changed a little from stock to stock but basically I apply a couple thinned coats to help seal the stock. Then I wet sand about 3 coats to fill the grain. After that I just start to apply more coats of whatever finish I am using until I feel that it looks like enough. After that is where I am running into trouble.

With the stock I'm doing now I have just been putting thinner and thinner coats on, but like I said, I am getting just real fine lines that you can only see if you hold at the right angle under the light. That's why I'm thinking I need to do some type of polishing step or something to give it that final smooth finish.

big cheese
I would sand it with 600 grit paper, then follow the suggestions I posted earlier. However, if you want, several other have offered suggestions about rubbing with pumice and rottenstone powder which will also work. Just depends on what you want the finish to look like in the end.
Phil

It's just a handle, after all...

My guns are pretty much safe from theft for pretty. A couple even have nicely grained wood. When I can't hunt 'em anymore, I'll spiff them up. Maybe.

Spray on takes some fine technique and a dust free environment- BTDT. Nowadays I settle for hand-applied, reasonably good looking, but PDG water-proofing.

They all (well most of them) kill quite nicely to 500 yards, looks be damned, thank you very much.

You might go back into Archives and review Sitka Deer's techniques.

Multiple hand-rubbed finishes always worked out best for me, back in my gunsmithing days.

It's just a handle, after all...

My guns are pretty much safe from theft for pretty. A couple even have nicely grained wood. When I can't hunt 'em anymore, I'll spiff them up. Maybe.

Spray on takes some fine technique and a dust free environment- BTDT. Nowadays I settle for hand-applied, reasonably good looking, PDG water-proofing.

They all (well most of them) kill quite nicely to 500 yards, looks be damned, thank you very much.

You might go back into Archives and review Sitka Deer's techniques.

Multiple hand-rubbed finishes always worked out best for me, back in my gunsmithing days.