First, I know: it is really a 'striker'. However, the Savage parts manual lists the part as a hammer.

I have 2 Savage 99s from the mid/late 1950s: one a 1954 EG .300 and one what looks like a 1957 F in .308. Guts are the same and bolt length seems the same. Any bolt length differences I see are within the bounds of my inability to measure accurately with my calipers.

I have an appropriate model hammer, firing pin [pin on type], hammer spring and hammer bushing. I want to put them together so that I have a completely good spare on hand for down the road [or if I pass it on to relatives].

The problem?

The hammer is not drilled for the firing pin mounting pin, and I don't trust myself to drill it without the tip of the drill wandering, causing a mis-alignment.

So, 2 questions:

The hammer DOES go all the way until it bottoms out within the firing pin piece, correct?

Any recommendations of who to send this work to that can do it the correct way? I don't know if there is an alignment issue involved also, with the ramped part of the firing pin on the bottom, top or sides.

Any tips would be appreciated!

If it's not drilled for the pin then it's not the right part. Get the right part.

Sorry, I respectfully disagree, unless you can demonstrate the flaw in my logic of the following.

As far as I can tell there are three hammer designs.

Two of them are from the pre-million gun versions [pre-tang safety design].

One of these has a screw-on firing pin. The other has a pin-on firing pin.

The post million guns [with tang safety] have a VERY different shape to the 'claw' part of the hammer that catches on the sear. It is narrower, and is at a different angle when the hammer is installed in the bolt. My sear would never engage with one of those designs.

I had received two of these 'wrong hammers' before from Numrich, so I have held those in my hands: both as a raw hammer and as a hammer assembly. This is NOT one of those hammers.

I have had both rifles apart, except for removal of hammer from firing pin.

I have a complete hammer assembly already that is appropriate to my rifles.

THIS hammer has the same shape 'claw' part as all three of the 'known good' ones.

I have all of the parts to make a second one, including this hammer, which you claim is NOT the correct one.

There are NO thread marks on the forward end of this 'hammer', yet is has the correct 'claw' part of said hammer at the end.

Numrich had it listed as NI, for New Inventory, as opposed to a 'take-off'. A 'take-off' would have the pin hole drilled in it. This does not, but is also listed as New Inventory.

At one time these hammers were made without a pin drilled for the firing pin. Unless you are saying the hammer was a cast part, with the firing pin mounting pin hole cast as a symmetrical void in the casting. And I've never heard of a cast firing pin, even ignoring the issue of how a hole would appear in a 'casting' without drilling.

Logically, THESE HAMMERS HAD TO BE DRILLED AT ONE POINT.

Again, it IS for a Savage 99. It IS for a pre-tang safety Savage 99. Both of mine are pre-tang safety versions.

It does not have ANY threads cut for the thread-on earliest type of firing pin. However it also does not have any pin hole drilled through it.

SO, what IS it, if not an undrilled new hammer? What is it if not the correct part, that is to be 'factory installed', or gunsmith installed now?

If the 'spare' striker assembly is to be a replacement for one of your Sav 99s, why not disassemble one of the bolts all the way down to bits to see exactly how the striker assembly is put together?

A few years ago, I replaced a drilled and pinned 'hammer' for a pre-mil EG by first examining the original assembly. I also obtained a NOS hammer from Numrich and it required that a pin hole be drilled. It was not difficult to do and using an accurate drill press, drill press vice, proper drill bit, and center punch prevented drilling the hole off center.

Aligning the hole in the hammer required careful measuring and marking. It helped to have the original hammer in hand.

The NOS hammer may also require adjustment of the FP protrusion from the bolt face.

Disagree all you want. The simple fact that the part won't work as is tells all. Go your own way. I've been working on these rifles for 40 years. Since you seem to know more than I do have at it.

AGREE