I'm slowly building a custom bolt action rifle and will soon begin working on stocking the rifle. I've heard of starting with an old beater stock, shaping it with sanding and bondo, then sending it off to be duplicated. Of course, it will be duplicated using a walnut blank that I select. Has anyone used this approach, and if so how challenging is it? Also, can anyone recommend an outfit that does a good job duplicating stocks? I've seen several on the internet, but it's always helpful to recommendations. Any input is appreciated!

Boyd's use to do it,not sure now. It would be worth a phone call at least

I have a duplicator and I have done what you are talking about. Mine uses a stylus that matches the router bit being used and will rub on the entire stock so the finish doesn't matter if it's wood, bondo or ice.....it just follows the surface. The very forend and butt are the attachment points and should be structurally sound.

high country,

Would it work if you started by gluing on a urethane foam block, cut and sand it to shape but undersized, then finished up with Bondo or the like for a hard shell? Or would a duplicator exert enough force to make a mess of it?

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Not styrofoam, not sure but I think Bondo would eat it. Urethane shapes better anyway.

On my machine I'm 100% in control of the pressure applied to the pattern. My rig is very close to the the one Les Brooks built @ Trinidad State.

Bondo is the pattern makers friend. Forget Urethane, a waste of time.

After I have the pattern and bondo shaped I spray the whole works with a hard setting black epoxy for a smooth surface for the tracer. Works like a champ.

On the stock below I am extending the pistol grip. There is a piece of 3/4 inch thick oak under the bondo, screwed to the stock. Build up your thick areas with wood for a good structural support, then fair in with bondo. Thick gobs of bondo will fracture.





Regarding pressure, on my machine, the operator is completely in control of the pressure applied via the two handle bars shown in the below photo.

Cab, have you found any bits to work better than others?

Yep I will put up a photo later tonight.

The bit shown is a 3/4" diameter made for the furniture industry by Forest City Tools in North Carolina, it cuts much better than standard router bits. I use it mainly for roughing. Although I also use standard carbide router bits.

The Forrest City 3/4 bits are in the 2 front rows center both square and radius. Carbide bits, tracers and setup tools also in the block.

Thanks. It's always a pleasure to see you tooling pile.

These responses have been incredibly helpful! I appreciate everyone taking the time to chime in. This is definitely the route I'll go.

I don't think it has been mentioned and forgive me if I missed it, but when I was doing stock work, my template stocks were always fully 'glass' bedded to the rifle, including the barrel channel and bottom metal - usually I would have several layers of elastic tape on the barrel to provide a little space for floating. Pre-bedding would make things so much easier when doing final fitting.

After all said and done, I would save the template stock for the next build and just hog it out as necessary to bed the next project barreled action. I had one template stock that I know went back and forth to the duplicator at least ten times - each time fitted for a different rifle.

I always like classic stocks, primarily the Sundra-style and for inexpensive template stocks, would buy plain walnut, unfinished Boyd stocks and re-use as above - the only problem I have with Boyds is they only make the stocks with a cheek-piece which I personally do not like so I would have to grind and re-contour that side of the stock. I also modified a beat up Rem Classic stock moving the pistol grip rearward more like a Dakota style. Winchester Ranger stocks are birch wood or similar and easy to modify as a template stock. You can also use composite or 'plastic' stocks for templates, if you find one with the shape/style that you like. If the template stock was checkered, I would fill in the checkered areas and sand smooth.

If you have similar action and bottom metal dimensions but different guard screw spacing, you can convert a stock, for example a Rem 700 template to a M98 by hogging out and rebedding.

A final suggestion: there are several brands of inletting/bedding blocks for trigger and magazine spaces. I find these to be extremely helpful for both templating and final bedding of the project stock - well worth the investment even if you're doing only one gun - you can always sell the bedding block online here when done

Offshore, give a thought to bedding with bondo. It cures in no time, is cheap and quick to remove.

Offshore has good points.

Below pattern stock is being bedded to provide a smooth hard surface for the duplicator tracers.

Note the cut through the pistol grip that is filled with epoxy: This is where I "bent" the pattern stock to put in cast off.

After all bedding is complete I spray the pattern with hard black epoxy to provide a smooth surface for the tracers.

Great point Cabriolet - I always sand smooth the template stock after re-bedding, etc.

High Country, I will try bondo next time. Thanks

Which "hard black spray epoxy" do you use/seems the best?