Thanks to all on this forum I have learned how to fix the cracks in my win mod 70 , Many of the guys said I should bed the recoil lug and rear tang. My question is how much should I remove as far as wood from behind the rear tang prior to bedding it........ Thanks, If I don't remove any wood I am afraid it will crack again........

Boy, that's difficult to judge- but as little as possible to get the results. Better too little first attempt than too much and affect the looks more. You need to get to fresh wood, at least, so if any of it is oil soaked, stained, etc, get rid of all of that. If it is good wood, just a 1/32 or so will do it, I think, using a quality epoxy. You want enough so it doesn't chip out, but as little as possible for looks. Release agent the tang, and epoxy right up to that- no need for clearance there. But make sure the receiver screws have clearance all around, or they will act as recoil lugs and split the wood on firing.. Sounds like what may have cracked your stock to start with, if it is a vertical crack in the wrist, or bridge behind the recoil lug.

Good luck.

Any rear surface, apart from the recoil lug, should have no contact. Tape the rear of the tang for clearance. GD

Which makes it worthless...

Incorrect.
He's referring to the backside of the action, the vertical portion of the tang which can split a stock during recoil or repeated recoil if it isn't relieved. the bottom needs to be bedded of course.
Just a hair's worth. Anyone who doesn't believe this is going to have a cracked Husqvarna or Mauser stock in their future.

That's what I think greydog meant too.. Why would you want to bed the vertical part of the tang anyway? Force along the major axis should couple to the stock at the recoil lug (only, IMHO).

I'm generous with the clearance. Have repaired old stocks with splits because the wood shrunk over the long term and the rear of the tang became tight with the stock.