I repaired a friend's cracked 11-87 stock. Evidently it had been hit from the side resulting in multiple hair line cracks as noted.

I drilled 1/8" holes thru the cracks, loaded them with marine grade, slow cure epoxy. I used a nail to "pump" the epoxy into the cracks. A tight fitting nail forms a piston type pump, pushing epoxy into the cracks. If the cracks can be stressed and slightly opened, that helps. After fully infiltrating the cracks with the product, the stock was put in a padded vice until the epoxy cured. The slow cure stuff is stronger than the 5 min version. This marine grade epoxy is white, unlike the clear stuff, is designed to be sanded and painted.

I then started filling the surface cracks with stained Tru-Oil. After curing, excess material was cut even with the factory epoxy finish with 4-0 steel wool. I repeated this process several times until the cracks were hardly visible. Because Tru-Oil isn't as hard as the epoxy finish, it can be carefully cut flush with steel wool. That dulls the epoxy finish, which can then be polished back to original luster with rubbing compound. I also filled some dings with Tru-Oil, using the same technique. I cut the raised Tru-Oil flush with the surface, carefully using 1500 sand paper and a block. I then used steel wool followed by polishing. The biggest surface crack, seen at 12 o'clock in the photo is now hardly visible; you have to look really hard.

I glass bedded the stock to receiver using Acraglas Gel. Turned out nice.

DF

Nice job on the repair. Ever try heating the epoxy and the wood so it will wick into the cracks easier?

The white epoxy, is that standard that way, or do you add a white filler to it like the West Systems microlight filler balloons or adhesive filler? What brand of epoxy do you prefer?

Bob

Sounds good! Job well done.

Note: no need to use marine grade epoxy. Regular epoxy is a-ok (and won't leave white lines that then need to be camouflaged). But what the heck, as long as you got epoxy forced into the cracks that is all that matters.

It's standard that way, IIRC made my J.B. Weld.

Marine grade may not be necessary, but sounds tough...

Has a macho ring to it...

The ability to take stain, paint, etc., seemed like a good idea and it seemed to work.

First time with this product, first time with this kinda repair.

DF

You can mix a colorant like artist's paint to match the wood ( like a mix of raw umber and burnt umber). A little goes a long way so you won't need so much that you affect the strength of the epoxy.

Sounds like a great idea. Never tried that, but will keep it in mind.

I wonder if it would be best to mix colors with the type product that accepts paint vs. the typical clear epoxy that may not be so easy to touch up.

Or if the cracks are filled and the color was close, would it make a difference, . I guess one could polish the epoxy filled crack if it was applied fairly even.

DF

Dunno, you'll have to do a test. I've used paint to color various clear epoxies. Epoxy is a finish (just ask Sitka) and I've never had to finish over. Also you could use artist's colors on what you have and finish over with a varnish containing product, have done it with Tru-Oil. Comes out a little darker if you do that. Can't tell you about durability, I'm gentle with wood that gets that much effort.