Replacing the trigger in my .300 WM, Ruger M77 MKII. In the past, I've generally just did some trigger work, by filing the sear, and using lighter springs. This time, I want a NICE Trigger.

Opinions on either one? Why one over the other, or should I flip a coin. Its $95 vs $125, so the cost diff. isn't enough to sway my decision.

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All my m77's have "nice" triggers in them already. They just need to be made that way... Hint. This is a gunsmithing forum, learn to make yours good...

There are limits to how "good" (a subjective term) a single lever trigger can be made without being made dangerous. There are good reasons for selecting an aftermarket trigger.

Personally smooth, consistent takeup without too much of it is a prime requirement. Let off weight isn't, so long as it's the same every time and it's not so heavy that it makes my finger hurt. That's within the capability of any decent trigger. Still my favorite deer rifle sports a Timney just because. Every year I have to get used to the light trigger that acts like a set trigger when my fingers get cold.

You'll have to remove some metal if you go with the timney for the safety to work. they have instructions on where to remove it, I had to break out the dremel. Never tried the rifle basix

I know how to work on the stock trigger. This one had already been "home-smithed" when I got it. It is filed down as far as I'd feel safe doing. I want it to feel like the X-Mark Pro on my Sendero.

My MKII trigger has zero creep, but it still feels heavy. I'll take some pictures of the parts.

Safety is a big reason for me wanting to go aftermarket. The trigger that's in it, has zero take up. It is against the "wall", it's just a heavy break.

I've heard of people using the rifle Basix sear, but I believe that is for the older Tang safety models.

I had one tuned and still didn't like it. Put a Timney in and it took some fitting of both the stock and the contact on the safety lever. Once I polished up the safety everything is good to go. I used the light spring and adjusted it for about 2 lbs. Not good with gloves on, so put the heavy spring in and backed it off to 2.5 lbs. and have not touched it since.

The original trigger may handle dirt better than the Timney but I would be concerned if it was an an amatuer job and no sear lee way. I know how screwed up it can get being an amatuer gun butcher.

I'll measure it when I get home, but I would say there isn't 0.010" left on the sear that holds it.

Edit: it's actually only 0.005"

Here it is. Man the file size restrictions here are crap.

I believe I'm going to go with the Rifle Basix, for ease of install.

"Zero" takeup is an excellent reason for replacing that type of trigger. Mechanically there has to be a reasonable amount of takeup or you're balancing a knife edge on a knife edge. A heavy break suggests a dull knife edge which isn't good for repeatability. The thing with Mausers and Timneys is there's a lot of manufacturers of Mausers each with the opportunity to set their own specs and tolerances. So to cover Mausers without a telephone book size inventory you design worst case and require a little adjusting for the others. Isn't hard.

I don't know anything about Rifle Basix other than people seem to like them. But as you may have surmised I'm not fussy about triggers so long as they are smooth and consistent. Can't stand taking up the slack and it feels like I'm dragging the trigger across a file. Beyond that a couple shots and I seem to adapt to the trigger.

Light triggers and cold fingers are a real consideration. First year I used that setup the rifle went off unexpectedly and the bullet kicked up dirt half way between me and the deer - couldn't feel the trigger tighten up. But the deer just stood there with a WTF look. Not too bright are they.

File size restrictions are iffy. Here I did "copy image location" off of right clicking on your image and did the insert image icon. Otherwise images seem to get resized to fit on the page - not sure about that but it displays as I want. Try stuff and punch preview reply and see what happens.

Most of the Ruger owners I asked, said they Prefer Rifle Basix (for the Rugers that is). It will be here Tuesday, I ordered it earlier. 14oz to 2.5 lbs. I believe I will keep the weight maxed out.

As far as the stocker, I had never thought about it as knife edge on knife edge. It's never went off accidentally/negligently/unintentionally, but it does indeed sit right against the wall. There is zero take up. I'm just "dolling" this rifle up for long range shooting. So I figured why use a nice stock, and nice glass, but keep the stock trigger.

Thanks for all your help. I'll take some pictures for you as I install, you can get more familiar with the Basix.

I read Dunlap's book on gunsmithing and he mentioned the enormous force on sears . Didn't sound right so got the calculator out and figured the PSI with zero takeup type contact. The PSI ran up to tool steel range. No wonder edges don't hold up if you overwork production triggers. Which is what's in Timeys and Basix. Would appreciate your comments on the Basix trigger.

I will take a lot of pictures, and try to borrow a trigger pull scale. I'll definitely take some side by side comparison pics. I look forward to trying it though.

Quick question; after the trigger is ready to go, should I Loctite the action screws? With that in mind, how tight do you normally get yours? I've never paid attention to things like this before, but this rifle needs to be as accurate as possible. I hope to prove a pencil barrel Ruger, can make accurate groups at 500 and beyond.

I would not Loctite action screws. Used to Loctite on other stuff but don't any more. A good hole properly prepared and torqued doesn't need it.

I'm different than most here, I tighten action screws as tight as my relatively weak wrists can with a screwdriver that has a normal size handle. Gives the screws some pre-load with no danger of snapping one. In my humble opinion exact torque doesn't matter in a properly bedded rifle so long as it's sufficient to hold the receiver from moving in the bed. But that's me.

Thank you sir, I will try it your way.

I've used Rifle Basix on tang safety Rugers and been very happy with the results. Have not done a MkII, but can't imagine they'd risk their rep.

Putting it in was very easy and straightforward. Although, the piece of metal that the trigger sits between is bent on my rifle. So I hand filed the sides of the trigger down to get a slick fit.

The weight is adjustable with the action in the stock. The improvement is night and day!

Here is the last picture. The instructions didn't mention Loc-Tite, but on the safety screw, I put Blue on the screw itself and the jam nut. Because if it ever jarred loose, the safety would fail.


Edit: The trigger pull can be adjusted very very light. But when I ordered the Rifle Basix, it didn't occur to me, that it does not replace the sear. The sear that has been backwoods butchered. Now I have a 1 lb trigger, that is still two knife edges balancing on each other. You guessed it, it still has zero take up, and breaks very crisp. I will try to get a video of it.

Hindsight speaking kids, go with the Timney if your factory parts have been hillbilly hacked.