On a Rem 700 BDL NO Pillars should the bedding only be behind the recoil lug or extend a 1” or 2” in front of the recoil lug?

I bed the whole action and let the barrel free float

So nothing in front (forwards towards muzzle)of the recoil lug correct? I purchased a wood stock and it’s bedded in front of the lug. So I need to remove it to completely free float the whole length of the barrel correct?

some like pad under the barrel for support, but I free float from lug to muzzel

That’s what I’ve been taught also. That’s the way Speedy Gonzales has done all my target rifles but didn’t know if it was different on spotter barrels.
Thanks for the input

Rear and sides of lug bedded, front of lug loose...

Bed 1 inch or so of the barrel ahead of the lug so you have consistent pressure / contact from that area.

Bed the rear tang area as well...

I LIKE to support the barrel by bedding into the channel about 1 " in front of the recoil lug - jmo RJ

This stock has about 2” so I’m going to remove about an inch.

I bed the whole lug, float the bottom of lug, unless it's a Wby MK 5 then bed the whole lug

I have always bedded the whole action and 2 inches in front of the lug. Everything tight. Prolly done 30 rifles and they all shot better after and none have ever moved.

Look at the action, any action.

You want support where it bolts down.
You want support behind the lug(s).

DO NOT BUILD A FULCRUM FOR THE LUGS to torque the action.


How to bed any action.

But then,

There may be one that will respond to a bedded barrel.
Or a pressure point.

Or...

I have a number of custom built varmint rifles. They were made by Jim Kobe, who haunts this forum at times.
They all shoot exceptionally well, accuracy wise.
They are all bedded about 1-1.5” forward of the recoil lug.

Will a stock bedded for one action, recoil lug and barrel work for another action, lug and barrel of the same type and make?

Not likely. The idea of bedding, at least partially, is to make up for manufacturing tolerances.

I'd shoot it first my not need to do anything!

Would tolerances be that much different on the same type actions?
I thought bedding was more for the stock variations.

No hard and fast rule as to what is "best". Shoot the rifle first and see how it does.

Bedding is to make up for differences in the metal AND the stock. A stock bedded for one barreled action may be near perfect or at least "perfect enough" for another. The best way to tell is by trying it. If there is no stress on the action and the back of the recoil lug has good contact, it is good to go. If no stress on the action but not good contact on the back of the recoil lug, re-bed the lug only.

Too many people get lost on a "pretty" bedding job and forget the reason for doing it. Namely; a stress free fit for the action. I have bedded rifles several different ways. As far as the action and recoil lug, I can't see that one is better than the other, at least on a sporter barrel rifle. For the barrel, the rifle needs to tell you what it likes, free floated, full length neutral bedded or a pressure point.

My .02 and worth at least half of what you paid for it.

Sounds most logical to me. Thanks