I finally took some photos of the mini-cylinder stove.

The stove dimensions are 4 3/4" diameter by 6 3/4" length.
Total weight including Titanium foil pipe, damper, rings and spark screen is 21 1/2 ounces



This is the front view. The brass rectangular tubing on the stove top are for pot stabilization. Pipe hole was cut with a 2 3/8" hole saw. Door is 20 ga stainless




Door open. You can see where the rivited stainless T-Nuts come thru for the legs.




Side view shows pot stabilizers and spring tensioer for keeping door closed.



Snow Peak Ti kettle on stove stabilizers. Kettle contacts stove top for maximum heat transfer.



Snow peak kettle nests inside stove for transport.





View of stove bottom with riveted stainless T-Nuts and 10x24 x 3.5 stainless flathead machine screws for legs.


I ran out of time to photograph the GoLite and stove jack but will try to get some pictures posted in the next few days of it.

Thanks Ed. That is masterful. I like the idea of a lightweight stove like this that you don't have to futz around with to assemble, AND that things can be stored inside it when it's packed up. Unfortunately, I can leave my Ti stove set up and haul it around but there is no way to easily store stuff inside it, so that wastes a lot of space.

Very nice, Ed. Something along those lines would be perfect for what I need. The ability to nest the kettle inside is a great idea. I'll be anxiously awaiting the photos of the Go-Lite and stove jack.

well I suppose that tease will keep an angry mob from storming your castle gates!

seriously, cool setup, is the stove pipe telescoping????

or is it kifaru style and flat pieces that have to wire the little buggers to form a pipe?


looking forward to the other pics, nice job Ed

Sweet! Can you tell us where you got the bits, especially the canister? Love the pot support. Much better than what I've tried as far as lightweight and compact.

Thanks guys,

It did turn out pretty darn good.

Randy,

The pipe is a roll up like the Kifaru's.

Looks good. I put the same kind of rails on the top of my homemade stove for cooking. Going to TJ max to buy a SS container and do one up.

I never seen the bottom things the legs screw into. What are they?

Woods,

Those are T-Nuts. Some of them have pointed flanges to set in wood. What you want are flat flanged.

This link shows them, but these are large sized. A good hardware store shold have them.
http://www.threeballclimbing.com/hardware/zproundbasetnuts.htm

NEED PICTURES OF FLAMES!!!!!

Ok now I know what they are. Thanks. I am going to use a damper and forgo the door flap. Maybe stick with 3-inch port as I have that size roll-up pipe.

Chris,

I got the canister at the Real Food Store where I am a manager. The are a Planetary Design Airscape canister.

Woods,

I am going to use the Ti Goat damper with it as well.

That's a sweet stove Ed.

Good article in Successful Hunter as well. I'd been thinking about trying one of the map programs. Nice to read your input.


Travis

Not sure I'll find that canister locally. An asparagus steamer is about the same dimensions, maybe a titch larger. The wife should consider herself lucky that hers is a spendy heavy copper-clad bottom model. I found a cheapo at Target though.

Very nice setup!

I found a pretty cool SS canister at Target for $9 today that I am going to give a try ...

I love camping/hunting stuff, especially stoves. I can't get enough. I find them at garage sales and buy them even though I must have a dozen or more.

I bought this little stove at a garage sale for $5.00. It has wings that open to support large pans etc. It also uses Coleman fuel or unleaded gas. It pumps up and gets hot quickly. It is Army surplus.





The pictures show it with a Ritz cracker for size comparison. The container is some stove-pipe I bought to make a nice carrying container. It is compact, works great, and I don't know how much it weighs, further more I don't care, as I have a new 3/4 ton Dodge diesel truck to carry it where I go hunting...

Woods or ed T, Have you guys compared boil times for the a setup Ed has compared to a flat top like kifaru or the rounded bottom pans like ti goat has? I dont need precise apples to apples with every second counted type info just interested to know if it is hard to get water to boil. Dean

I think it will be a bit tough to compare boil times due to the size of Ed's stove. Kifaru doesn't offer anything that small and I don't think (but could be wrong) that the Ti cylinder stove is still a fair amount bigger.

Ed, was the door just fashioned out of sheet metal?

eyeguy,

CCH is correct as to this being quit a bit smaller than other stoves. The 1st version brought just under a liter of water to a rolling boil in 30 min. This 2nd version has better surface contact so I expect boil times of 20 to 25 minutes which is pretty comparable with a Kifaru Para stove.

Other cykinder stoves I have built have been close to flat topped for boil times. In my experience, a damper or damper plate is more important with cylinder stoves to direct more heat to the cooking surface.

Boil times may seem kind of slow when compared to a gas stove, but with a wood stove you are just sitting around stoking it and enjoying the shirt sleeve warmth.

Chris,

The door is cut from 20 ga stainless. I could have cut. probably another ounce by using lighter material for the door, but the 20 ga with the spring latch makes for a nearly air tight stove.

Is that a 65 or 66 GTO?

..that was my question..I am guessing a 65 as the 64 has horzontial headlights and the 66 and 67 are the same except for the tail lights...

Great looking stove Ed...when do you start marketing them?

Bob

Bob,

Thanks! No plans to market the stoves. I designed the current Kifaru stoves and built them for 7 years but am now devoting more time to writing. Building the stoves didn't allow much free time.

I am bettin' 66 goat. 64 & 65 were the short boxy ones.

NICE STOVE!!

This may help identify the car, but I was showing off my new Dodge. Geez where is every-one's appreciation.

I guess the same place mine is, with the '65 GTO, as I've owned it now for 38 years.

Well I lost that one. Nice goat!

Ed, I'm admittedly not much of a metalwork guy, more a woodwork guy. Can you tell me, was that a carbide grit hole saw rather than a bi-metal toothed saw?

I've partly put together two so far. One for a friend, one for my son. These things are REALLY turning out nice. I wanted to mention, not anything to write home about, but I discovered that even though the rivets are not as flush, the stove legs are much stiffer to downward weight when the flange nuts are riveted circumferentially rather than longitudinally, at least for the canisters I'm working with.

Dave,

I used a bi-metal toothed saw. A cordless drill is what I have found to work best with the hole saws. Just be carefull when the saw goes through!

You should have better stiffness with the t-nuts riveted circumfrentially. I went with longitudinally to obtain a more flus fit with the option of adding two rivets per t-nut, although that might add a half an ounce to the stove weight

I just started on my latest project: Light hiker boots with removable liners so they can be dried each night.

Thanks Ed. I was having a heck of a time with the drill press and the bi-metal saw. Ended up just going really slow.

Boots sound awesome!

Do you have any pictures of how the stove pipe fits into the hole. I'm trying to make my own stove and that is the one thing that is throwing me off about it.

Thanks,

Chris

These picture of the Ti-Goat damper/screen set up shoud show you. The damper rod keeps the pipe from going into the stove.

Hi Ed - very nice looking set-up. Thanks for posting up on this.
I am making a cylinder stove now and just wondering are your wire retaining rings a size the Kifaru or Tigoat uses.
I am putting mine in a paratipi.
Thanks again!

Bitt.where did you find a good cooking pot fof this pupose?I'm on the Kitsap penn. and the clossest I could ged was a similar size but it had an extre thick bottom and was pretty heavy. Tim

I went looking yesterday at Target - but those storage cylinders looked too small and going thru the isle I found a - get this - a toilet brush holder - in brushed stainless steel. 4" x 10" and has the perfect end on it (once the brush was unscrewed) to serve as the door. The only draw back is - while it says stainless and looks like stainless.... the magnet say otherwise. The cylinder is easy enough to play with - I can see having a couple different sizes anyway.
That Ti - foil from the Goat folks is where the expense lies.
Fun project to be around messing with.
I am looking for quick and easy set-up and this should do that over my K-stove.

Bitt,

My current pipe is a Ti-Goat, 2 3/8"

If you have a Kifaru stove/pipe, I'd just saw a 3" hole in you clyinder and use it.

Thanks Ed - my current stove is a medium with my 8 man. So this paratipi project is a new one. And I can see going with the Ti chimney in a 4' length for this one. 3#'s and change for my lite weight tipi option sounds pretty good.

Not all SS is non-magnetic.

I thought the higher the quality - the less magnetic it is??
I should still get my nickles worth out it regardless.

Ed,unless I missed something you never posted pictures of yor stove in the GiLite shelter.Also on a side note,have you ever tried using a hammock instead of a ground shelter?I'm thinking mostly of a Clark N. American because it's rated as a 4 season shelter?Thanks Tim

Tim,

I haven't posted photos of the SH 2 yet, but will.

As fas as a hammock goes, I have a Hennesey and like it for summer trips, but come fall, I'd rather be on the ground.

Thanks Ed.

I owe you a bottle of wine or something.

Dave

Huskyrunner,where did you get or how did you make the stove pipe coller/damper?How big is the big stove and what do'es it weigh?

Nice looking stoves Dave. How dow they work??

Dave,

Ecellent! Very well done.

What is the size of the larger stove?

Ed's general design is really a winner. The large stove is 8" diam. by 10" deep, so ~ 10*3*16 = 480 cu. in. It was a wastebasket from Bed, Bath, Beyond $26? All up, it weighs 3.5 lb. but there's no way you need to use bolts as big as I used, they're 0.5 lb. I haven't burned this one yet. It has a 3" pipe and uses my TiGoat collar.

The small stove is exactly to Ed's specs, a storage can from Bed, Bath, Beyond. $12. The little SnowPeak kettle with 20 oz. water came to a rolling boil in about 15'.

The smaller collar was made from some galvanized sheet I had laying around. You can see how white and crusty it looks. It is definitely sacrificial and will need to be replaced. I just rolled a rectangular piece into a cylinder and gauged it by putting it into the stove hole, then clamped it and marked holes for a couple rivets and where the damper lever goes through. I bet if you had a punch, that would be cleaner than drilling the holes.

Then, you rivet the cylinder and use it as a template to trace the circular damper plate. Rather than explain all that, I'll get a picture up in a bit. My damper lever is like on a big house woodstove. It has that wavy part in the middle of the lever to lock it into the plate. TiGoat uses a straight lever with a washer welded onto it. I'd do that but I cannot weld.

well done David, and somehow I just get a chuckle thinking of you cruising the Bed, Bath and Beyond store for stove makings!


very well done on both counts the manufacture and the scrounging. (grin)

Hah, you got that right Randy! You shoulda seen the look the cashier lady gave me when I asked her where the kitchen magnets were so I could check the stainless canisters I was dragging around the store.

I know that look.
That look is probably the same one I received at the beauty supply store when I had to explain that the hydrogen peroxide paste I was looking for was for bleaching my elk skull.
They all stayed away from me in there after that.

Huskyrunnr.

Nice job. Over the summer I am going to work on some new stoves but in a month trout season starts so yea know how that goes.

Bitt, beat of a different drum, enit?

Woods, priorities! I'll be keeping an eye out for any creations you come up with, so please post 'em. I too gotta get the outrigger canoe in shape for bass season here. Almost done making a 600 lb. displacement float (ama) for it so we can sleep on the trampoline on the water.

I don't much care for working metal, but working fiberglass and epoxy resin has got to be the worst.

Silly questions:
-what kind of hinge on the door and how did you mount it? Can't tell from the pics.
-how do you feed the sticks in? open the door or through the holes?

I'm about done except for hinge and faulty rivet tool, I'm assuming you use steel rivets not aluminum?
thx

Tom,

It is a lightweight stainless hinge. They come in 6' sections and then are cut to length. I left a flange of sorts on the bottom of the door to achieve the correct clearance.

The rivet are stainless, but steel would work OK.

Sticks go in thru the door.

This is the stove I have been looking for, and you started this thread on my Birthday even. Very cool design. I want to put one of these in my SL 5.

Hardcore,

The Mini-Cylinder is a cool little stove, but I don't think it would heat an SL 5. Somthing along the lines of a Kifaru Small or Medium would be my choice for that tent.

Ed, how do you think the little cylinder stove would do in a Golite SL3 compared to a Parastove?

The mini-cylinder is close to a Para stove in heat output and I used a Para quite a bit when I had a Hex 3 which is basicly the same as the SL 3. I would say you would be OK to 0-5 degrees F.

Thanks Ed, I think I'll try an SL3. I scaled the dimensions out with chalk in my driveway and got a couple of sleeping bags and the stove out there (the neighboors already know I'm strange). Not a lot of extra room for two but it looks adequate. Certainly a palace for one.

I got to make myself one of these.
Thanks, Ed T