Hi All - I heard back from DJ at TiGoat and the image below is what he passed along illustrating the latest design. He stated that he hopes to have the website updated over the weekend with more information on the new version.

It's clear that it's done away with the spring & cable system and now using several fixed length rods to secure the ends of the stove to the cylinder. The added benefit aside from appearing more secure is that it now creates a level cooking surface at the top of the stove albeit it not a 100% flat/contact one. I give that a big thumbs up as I just didn't like the balancing act I've seen in many action shots of it to date.

I fired back a few more questions to him asking:

*12" only or can we order in 18"
*Is there a way to increase the height of the stove.
*Has he ever produced a t-style hood for the pipe to prevent rain,etc. (There is what appears to be a new spark arrestor basket in the image)

Huskyrunner, I think this means it's ok to post your shots as well now that we have something out from TiGoat. Look forward to seeing what you came up with and knowing if this version is the "hell-for-stout" one you had seen previously.

that is a nice stove...... looks like fun to put together though?

That's it. That's the design that can hold a lead brick.

Mine is ss shim and ss plates.

12" X 100" .004" (I think)ss shim from Fastenal ~$80
cut off a 27" length for the stove body and that leaves you a 6' pipe.

two MSR alpine plates from REI, $10 ea.

The 1/8" legs and tie rods were scrap I had laying around, but ultimately came from Home Depot, a few bucks.

The Alpine plates have a generous flange on them so I drilled holes for the tie rods, put a hook on one end, threaded the other. Not as clean or fast a setup as DJ's.

The assembled stove has legs that were brazed with a small propylene torch I borrowed from a neighbor. The other one I used a spot welder, which I found more difficult, but I'm a complete newbie at spot welding and brazing.

wyo, its no more futzy to put together as my box stove which surprised me. I thought it would be a real pain. All up, w/ the pipe, it weighs 2 lb. 10 oz. (eta: I forgot that my stove door is way too heavy gauge scrap I had laying around. Without the door, its 2 lb. 3 oz.)

Trips, I do know that 14" ss shim stock exists, so you could certainly get one that size. The design seems easily scaleable to whatever is available in shim length and plate diameter.

sweet! want to trade for a 3 man?

Are they going to be out of stock forever. I've check their website every month and it always says out of stock. I assume you just have to back order and wait 6 months?

I would guess they sold out of the old model to bring in the new version, but thats just my guess

Nice work Husky! Your clone looks great. Has it been out with you yet and how did it perform?

Heard back from DJ on some of my follow up questions. Here it is verbatim.


Can the stove still be ordered in an 18" length or just 12"?
>>> We only did 2-3 18" with the old model... working on a 15"-18" in the new model.

Is there a way to adjust the support system to raise it higher off the ground?
>>> Other than stacking something under it, no.

Can you confirm that the stove is now held together with three rods which does away with the spring and cable system.
>>> Yes, 3 Ti rods... 2 top (works as pot support), 1 bottom.

Is that little mesh basket a spark arrestor for the top of the pipe?
>>> Spark arrestor yes, but we like it in the bottom of the pipe. In the hot zone there is less chance of it soot building up.

Have you ever produced or is a T-style cap available to prevent rain from entering the pipe?
>>> Haven't ever done one.

What other changes have been made in this version of the stove?
>>> Larger diameter (gained ~160 cubic inches). All Ti end plates. Legs front and rear. And the Ti support rods. The 2010 model gained about 5oz in total weight and will cost about $35 more.


Can I order now? Looks like a winner. Thanks,,
>>> Not quite yet, more info will be up on the website this weekend.

Thanks for the kind words and offer wyo. I only have one complete stove that I gave to my son. I'd be happy to send along a pair of completed end-plates and tie rods for free if you want to get your own shim stock and finish it up yourself. This was just a fun experiment for me so I don't know if I'll ever finish up my spare.

Trips, draw in these stoves is phenomenal. I've only had about four burns in this stove since I made it last Summer. I don't have much time to get out these days and play. Trying recover from a job loss and move up in the new job.

Wow, can't beat that offer!

Husky- Probably going to abandon my box design and build one like yours [or buy DJ's] Did you look for the plates or that shim stock in Titanium? I guessing its mighty expensive. Does the type of SS matter?

I found some Titanium plate pretty reasonable at Titaniumjoes.com but no shim stock

I see ti goat offers ti foil in 22 inch width on their website. Does anyone know if it's heavy enough to work for the stove body?

would thin gauge galvanized flashing metal work? i have a roll of it that is 16 inches wide. would need to pre burn to eliminate the zinc...... wyo.

B- didn't look for Titanium. Rather than get the lightest thing, my goal was to source everything locally. I don't really know how the grade of ss matters. I suspect the good stuff is less corrosive and therefore lasts longer. I've heard the better it is the less magnetic it is. The shim I got from Fastenal was only very slightly magnetic but after a burn it became considerably more magnetic :shrug:

olypen, I know that early on they ended up with some Ti foil that they didn't like for some reason. I think they said it was not durable. They had a bunch of it and decided to sell it off as windscreen projects. My pipe that came with my box stove is from that batch and I haven't seen any pinholes or corrosion and crumbling. What I did notice in tests I did way back is that their titanium box stove body had much better heat transfer characteristics than one of my ss stoves. That also matched measurements of electrical conductivity, as expected. That early Ti foil was a wholly different story. You could have the box stove cranked and actually put your hand on the upper pipe without any discomfort. Crazy. It must have been some oddball alloy that had really lousy thermal conductivity. So while it is light and plenty thick for a stove body, it won't have very favorable thermal characteristics IF it is that first batch they ran into.

REI has TI plates for $15 each. Having trouble finding the ti foil. I might prototpe it with thin stainless and see how that goes. When its all said and done it will probably be easier to just order one from tigoat.

If you are looking for cylindrical SS contaniners a good place to start is usually bathroom toilet brush holders! or biscuit barrels or bread bins.Because of the very limited use of tent stoves over here it is often easier and (much) cheaper to make your own and this is usually the place to start.

what are the dimentions on the stove? Thanks, Casey

wyolostandfound,

I don't think you'd want to use galvanized. I have played aound with cylinder stoves and used .004 stainless shimstock. McMaster-Carr has it in a variety of widths & lengths.

The ti foil/shim stock is available from Ti Goat. Runs about $15-$17 a foot.

Nice DIY.

Thanks Woods. If I can cut the price in half with not too much weight penalty, I'm happy. Right now I'm wondering about a set of holes for the tie rods that would spread them out and allow a larger pot to compress the cylinder body and allow greater contact. At some point its going to perhaps collapse though.

I think that design is pretty clever the way the seal is created by the compression around the radius of the plates. I would have thought it burns pretty good with the cylindrical design but have never played with it.

I made a rectangular stove from a Coleman fuel can [that got squashed by my buddies mule] and found it burned really well especially when I put in a baffle.I can't take credit for the baffle design. The baffle was a small rectangular piece that hung from the top about 2/3 of the way back. It somehow created a swirling air flow that helped burn the contents better and increase temps. I would think the cylindrical design would do that naturally.

Any idea on a release date?

I'd like to copy this or make a similar design. Just wondering about the material thickness. I see the shim stock in .004(1.9#), .005(2.2#), and .007 (2.9#). Is the .004 plenty durable? My buddie has had a few of these TiGoat and Kifaru stoves and the paper thin pipes seem to hold up decent. Guess I'm just wondering what thickness stainless they use.

Husky, what does the joint that holds the ends of shim stock stove body together look like? It seems that would need to be quite precise to get a good snug fit on the end plates.

280:
No joint, just a decent amount of overlap and a couple of wire rings to hold the cylinder at the right diameter, just the same way the pipe is assembled. It's all in getting the wire rings uniform and the right size. The end plates are tapered a bit so it doesn't have to be too precise. The plates will wedge into the ends of the cylinder and lock the cylinder against the wire rings.

Chesapeake:
I remember hauling out the micrometer and measuring some Kifaru ss pipe I have at .004" so that is what I ordered for these stoves. I'll measure again when I get a chance since my memory is not perfect. TiGoat lists their Ti foil thickness at .005", but I'm not sure if that is what they use for the stove pipe.

I've used the Kifaru pipe for many years and it is very durable.

I emailed Ti Goat awhile back with a stovepipe question and the answer basically said that the Ti foil for sale on their site is their stovepipe.

Thanks Husky. I would suspect the Ti would be a touch thicker than the stainless. I can ask my friend to measure his also.

Pretty sure his TiGoat pipe was titanium, and the Kifaru is stainless. We've had his poor stoves cherry red and they seem to hold up, thought they end up pretty warped up.

Very nice job Husky Runner. Nice stove by Tigoat as well

Thanks huskyrunnr..you inspired me and here is my home made stove

Titanium snow peak plates, stove body and stove pipe is .004 ss shimstock from mcmaster carr, ss aircraft cable. No parts to lose, can be assembled easily with gloves on in the cold, and requires no tools. This is so easy to assemble and only takes a few minutes. The stove drafts excellent and the pipe seals real well where it goes into the stove body. I'm quite happy. Here are some pics of tonights maiden burn. 1/16" ss aircraft cable and ss/al turnbuckles.













[img]http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/797/1stburn4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/264/1stburn3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9195/1stburn2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/8247/1stburn1.jpg[/img]

I used a heavy duty strainer that I bought at wally world for a spark arrestor for the time being. It was way too big and took some cutting and shaping to make it fit. I am going to use 2 of these in the stove pipe, but I am looking for some different material or product. Maybe just some mesh from lowes.
The pipe rolls up easily for packing and when unrolled it goes back to it's stove pipe form due to being heat treated.



Keys in this pic are for reference. Look how insanely tiny this set up goes down to. This was so easy a caveman could do it!!

[img]http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/2481/2ndburn1.jpg[/img]

Well done! I like a number of things you did, especially using the stove door cutout for the door itself, and apparently not having to buy any special hole saws.

I don't swage cable but I do a hasty eye-splice instead. Swaging has to be much faster.

Thanks, yea hole saws were $25 and the ss shim I used a pair of scissors to cut, so no special tools to buy here. Yea, from my old trapping days we used to make our own snares by just feeding a cable end through a nut and smashing with a small sledge or hammer.

Those little turnbuckle assemblies, what is the little hook on each end that grabs the plate formed of? Is that SS cable or all-thread?

280, I drilled a 1/16" holes through the plate end, then fed a 1/16" ss aircraft cable through it, smashed a ferrule over the end, and there you go. These snow peak ti plates have a VERY small lip to them, and you can't use anything larger then 1/16" to go through the plate. So, you can either use 1/16" titanium rod, or use a cable like I did. I felt the rod would be too fragile, be harder to line up straight, and be subject to bending, and the cable is cheaper and very easy to use. I just lightly hand tighten these turn buckles to draw the plates together. You don't need much to get them nice and snug.

Nice looking stove HardCore. I might have to give something like that a try.

Hardcore, I'm a moron man, but a pic just might enlighten me.