I realize this has probably been beat to death here, but after looking through the recent topics, I did not see where it was discussed in the recent past. I will be using these boots for mainly hunting/hiking anywhere from the September archery season (90 degrees plus)to rifle elk season (-20 and snow). What is the best all around boot made if money was no object? How about if one was on a budget of, say, $250.00?

From what clients tell me, Meindl is a good way to go and especially within your price range.

Crispis and Kenetrek - for the upper end of the boot market, if you are on a budget, watch camofire.com, they have both brands for sale pretty regularly and at a price cheaper (>$250) than any other site. They also take calls to the warehouse for orders if you need them now, and they have your size on hand.

As far as the temperature range you are looking at, it's going to be hard to find a non-insolated boot that is light enough to get you through the 80-90 degree temps, and still have enough room for the layers you will need for the sub-zero layers. With a 100 degree span, you are really looking at two pair of boots to do either end of the range well. JMO...

I'd pick and choose the type of boot you need based on your requirements. Once you narrow it down to a type of boot, I'd look at samples from all the major makers, do not get locked into any specific maker if you've never worn their boots. At this point, it is a matter of fit, the different makes do not always fit quite the same. You may be so generic that a broad range may fit you well. On the other hand, you may have a fit that only a very few of the makes will work well. I know for a fact, through trial and error, that certain boots that are praised by some on this board are a quick and certain death upon my feet making them my absolute worst of the worst list. Some will just not accommodate the shape of your foot, be it too narrow, too wide, too short, or too long. You'd think the sizing between them all would be the same, but this will not be the case.

Personally, my favorite boot for upland use is a Redwing 914. I get them fit and adjusted through a Redwing cobbler so this boot ends up having a custom fit. I can get about ten years extreme service out of these boots and they'll go through several resoles. I use them for any uninsulated outdoor work down to a bit below freezing, to include bow hunting.

My favorite packs are Schnees and my favorite mucks are Muck boots. When it comes to a stiffer pack boot for the hills and mountains, I happily used Lowa Sheep Hunters for a number of years and I have more recently switched to Kenetrek Mountain Extremes. As I've aged and have suffered injuries, my requirements for boots have become more specific. Certain boots that served me well when I was younger and stronger, no longer work as well for me. There was a time I could run the hills barefoot without issue, but those days are long gone.

Best

Yes, you definitely need to try them on with the socks you'll be wearing while hunting, and not just ordering "blindly" from a catalog. A client ordered a pair of Kenetrek boots and they murdered his feet. For the following year, he ended up buying a pair of Danners at a store and only after trying them on.

troutslayer,

I don't know where you are in Montana, but if you're anywhere within a reasonable drive of Bozeman you can go to Kenetrek headquarters and try boots on. They can fit just about anybody, and Kenetreks that FIT are among the best boots available.

i know everyone has an opinion, but i've always been a fan of danners. i've got 5 pairs of hunting/ hiking boots.

A pair of boots that will do it all from +90 to -20 is a tall order indeed. Realistically, I think you are looking at two or, or preferably three pair, for that kind of temperature span.

I'd be looking for a pair of high quality non-insulated boots to cover Spring, Summer and early Fall. I roll with a pair of Kenetrek Mountain Extreme.

Around here, depending upon where you go and what you do, a similarly high quality insulated boot works well for most elk and late whitetail hunting situations. But then again, our general season ends the first week of November for elk and it rarely gets below the double digits. Mostly 60's to mid 20's, though I've seen it not get above 16 for a few days. Toe warmers help expand the comfort range. I've got a pair of Cabela's Mountain Hunters, now discontinued, that are awesome comfy. Italian made, Dave Page says they're Miendls made for Cabelas.

Below that, I'd be looking at a decent pair of packs, some boiled wool socks, arch support and extra liners inserts. I've been using Sorels ever since we lived in Billings MT as a kid, but there's no doubt something "better".

Allen

I really like the Meindls as well. The Alaska Hiker version is a great all around boot.

Hanwag makes a good boot too.

Chet

Hi John,
Given your experience where does Kenetrek's abilities stop? I have to buy extra wide 13's to fit my size 11.5 feet.
12 eeeee usually is just right with good socks. Think they are up to that challenge?

I've done some glaciar hiking, including climbing mt ranier, in my meindl alakans. You can layer wool socks pretty well to bump up your thermal needs. I hunt on the wasatch front in all sorts of weather including snow and ice and all i use is my meindls in different flavors with good socks.

I use a lot of the same boots in hot weather with a different sock setup. Not ideal, but it can be done.

As far as which I like best, or which anybody likes best, it comes down to foot shape in many cases. I'd recommend you try stuff from lowa, meindl, hanwag, raichle, crispi - as many of them as you can get your hands on. Ordering from places like zappos.com or sierratradingpost allow you to try things and send them back if they dont work.

here's a vid i did with many of the suggested boots. It may help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfApS_NRQjg

The Irish Setter brand is pretty good. They are high quality, well built boots.

I've had good luck with Hanwags from Lathrop and Sons. My feet used to really hurt after 3 miles or so....not anymore...

http://www.lathropandsons.com/

What you need to do, is to call Viberg's in Victoria and consider having a pair of custom boots made to PROPERLY fit your feet. This, is not as costly as it may seem and they make good boots that will work in BC conditions and last.

A few years ago, some people on HBC or maybe CGN were having a similar problem and Gatehouse decided to ask and then act upon my advice. He got boots from Viberg's to fit and he also has big, wide feet.

If, you are, as your foot size indicates, a big and heavy man, you will tear up Cabela's Meindls, Kennetreks, and other recreational level boots in BC in mere weeks. You can take my advice or not, I do not care, but, I am giving you sound info. here that WILL work.

I just bought my second pair of La Sportiva Glacier boots. Tough heavy, waterproof, and with gaitors I even wear them in snow. I have worn many in my life and these are some of the best.
Can be tough to break in!

I think that fit is everything when you talk boots, and the brand that better fits me feet, ergo the best boot for me is Lowa.

When the mountain gets more technical, the super light Sportivas Trango S Evo are hard to beat for me.

STP has Kenetreks for $200 if you have a coupon;

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/kenetrek-boots-mountain-400-10%e2%80%9d-hunting-boots-waterproof-insulated-leather-for-men~p~4675w/?filterString=hunting-gear~d~32%2F&colorFamily=01

Ha! Kute, I'd love to see the look on Lance Kronberger's face after you informed him that he's only wearing recreational level boots.

http://www.kenetrek.com/testimonials.asp

His boots are one thing, but that axe is a POS.

SMC in Ferndale would hook him up with a proper 100cm walking axe with a lower end that won't fold in half if put in a bad spot...but maybe Lance Kronberger doesn't stumble in the boulders like I do. He sure puts his clients on a lot of big sheep.

Not to get the thread too far off base, but I wonder why he doesn't just use a whippet?

When ordering boots how much bigger in size do you go for socks and swelling of feet? I'm a 10.5 medium so 11.5 medium? One size up or more?
Thanks

Going up a size is the usual "rule of thumb" for fitting mountain boots and I wear US "9" shooes, but US "10" boots. I really suggest working with Lathrop's as those guys can fit you correctly and sell a good product.

Actually, a few years ago, I spoke on the phone with them and they ended up offering me a job as one of their fitters. I had retired at 55, end of June, 2001 and had job offers paying far more in the BC-Yukon mineral exploration industry...but, my wife asked me to stay retired.

I have had as many as three pairs of topend boots literally disintegrate within the 7-8 months of my former seasonal wilderness work in the BC mountains and, btw, many longterm and very active sheep hunters here in BC, find Kenetreks a bit "soft" for serious,longterm mountain use.

I intend to buy a pair of Kennetreks next month to use hunting on Vancouver Island, to help preserve my FGL Galibier Peuteray, Kastinger and Scarpa boots that do work best in serious mountain uses. I suggest talking to John Calden as well.

Thanks for all the info. I see there are a lot of different brands that I'll have to look at. Being as I'm in Montana, I'll have to look at the Kennetreks. Bozeman isn't very far from me. Also I think it will have to be two different boots to deal with the temperature extremes. Thanks again guys.

For the reply to ...no price limit... comment in your initial post, Google "John Calden Boots" and give him a call.

Also, while I like the Kenetrek pacs, but, prefer my original Scnee's, I would choose Hoffman's over them, now, should I ever buy another pair. Google them, in Idaho.

I wonder how all those "mountain men" made it with buckskin, leather, cotton, wool and moccosins.

Actually, the early mountain men here in BC, did not wear mocassins and did wear highend, custom made boots. The terrain is such that moccassins are pretty much useless and BC was largely explored during "The Victorian Era" when climbing boots were first developed in the European Alps and then brought here.

Buckskin was also not often used in BC, the explorers here wore woolen, some cotton (linen) and leather garments and not hides,etc.

You're referring to how much larger than your tennis shoes or street shoes? It would depend on the manufacturer. Could be anywhere from a half size to a full size or more, depending on the manufacturer.

That is the actual size of my foot without a shoe. I went to the foot doc for a problem and had him figure what size my foot was, actually. I usually wear an 11.

An eleven boot, or street shoe? I guess you're probably referring to a shoe with casual socks, I think. If that's the case, two pair of outdoor socks will equate to a larger size boot, by at least one size [Depending on manufacturer, of course]. And if that's the case, you'd be looking at a size twelve [Again, depending on manufacturer].

I'm curious Kutenay, what do you consider "serious mountain use", especially as it relates to today's backcountry hunter?

Personally, I am not at all a fan of heavy, clunky, loud, stiff, old-school vibram soled boots that don't have a full rubber rand and have an almost nonexistent rocker...and I don't know anyone else that actually gets out there in serious backcountry hunting conditions that does either. In my experience, old school vibram just doesn't hold a candle to the more modern sticky rubber compounds and traction designs used in the Kene's.

Here's a few pics of a small part of a friend's trophy room. He's rarely home and is the very definition of a "serious mountain hunter". Clearly, he can afford to buy any boot on the planet. One guess as to which type of boot he prefers to wear when sheep hunting...

For serious off-road hunting north of 50 degrees latitude in mountainous terrain, I generally wear Invernos.

Right now, I am wearing a pair of 1970s Gaibier Peuteray boots, FGL, I fitted them when I bought them from a gentleman in Califoria and I had Italian Vibram soles re-fitted. I also have Scarpa Fuego and Concordia boots, Kastinger FGL climbing boots and an ancient pair of the Meindl Geologist boots developed here in Vancouver in conjunction with the late Al Meindl.

These, plus Viberg packers and loggers of various styles, Google their site, Victoria, BC. and the now gone Pierre Paris, Daytons and Head's boots made in Vancouver are what I mean by ...serious..., etc. I do not think like a guided client as I spent much of my life working in the mountains where I was born and raised.

So, I also did not buy the Sitka Gear that came here, do not often bother with camo and I prefer merino wool and either woolen whipcord or sometimes nylon pants.

BTW, most of the dozens of BC professional guides I have known and have been asked to become one of, usually wore jeans, flannel or cotton shirts and often work boots when guiding wealthy foreign hunters for trophies such as those you post the photos of. I do not now wear cotton as I prefer lighter synthetic pants as above.....cheaper the better and I learned about these on this very forum...even an old dog......

Boot manufacturer names doesn't quite answer my question with regard to what you consider "serious mountain use". How do you define serious mountain/backcountry use?

Also, just curious, what are you implying when you say "I do no think like a guided client"?

Granted, these are not boots, but for most of my serious mountain use I use 5.10 camp 4's. They are essentially an approach shoe and have some very sticky rubber. The only negative to them is they are slow to dry. I combat that with neoprene and wool socks. I might investigate the canyoneering version on the next purchase, but I've come to believe wet feet are a part of being in the mountains. My goretex boots will wet out, just slower, but once they do it's over. If they don't wet out, usually they get wet from the inside.

Truth is, traction is as much or more about technique than it is the rubber. I've hiked up steep trails carrying 50 lbs with Five fingers before. I also have become very fond of the Merrel Barefoots, in fact I ran down 3k in an 1:01 last week with a Dana Longbed on my back wearing the barefoots. Granted, I had no designs on running when I set out. I intended to load the Dana with 70 lbs of rocks in a nasty drainage to see if I could handle it in those shoes. The running came about due to an emergency I needed to tend to.

I think boots are generally over rated. A friend and I did a mostly over snow route in April of close to 30 miles. About 12 miles, was snow only, he wore mountaineering boots, and I took regular boots with crampons. At the end of the 14 hr day, both of our feet were soaked. It's life. Good socks are the best way to deal with wet feet. Technique is more important than rubber for staying upright. Grippy rubber helps, but technique rules.

My friends, colleagues and I were not wealthy and we bought all of our own gear, while being paid the relatively low salaries that BC paid in my working years. So, we would buy a pair or maybe two of leather boots and one of rubber or rubber-leather pacs and that was it, we used them for EVERYTHING.

This,included all aspects of hunting in BC-AB, fishing,climbing, hiking, some cross-country skiing and working at fighting wildfires, various forestry projects and even wearing to college. I grew up "poor" and worked for everything I now have, so, I bought boots that would last and not fail on a steep fire at the worst possible time.

I am not implying anything, if you would notice, I very specifically stated that MY comments were based on BC, where I live and so forth. What has worked for me, for the 50+ years since I got my first Pierre Paris boots in 1961,age 15 may well not suit others. Kenetreks, have some nice boots and I am going to buy some, soon, but, they are too soft and will not wear or support the orthopaedic lift on my right boot as FGL boots do and always have.

I will, by choice, never buy another boot with a rubber rand as they never fit quite like a Galibier or Kastinger "Old School" boot will and are useless to dangerous in fire. So, while a client hunter from wherever may come to BC, he will very probably have a different paradigm for much of his gear than I do.

I also have used the plastic boots, not Invernos, mine were Asolos and they do not suit me as well as FGL climbing boots always have. I posted photos of me free-climbing wearing Meindl Aconcaguas and those were my daily footwear for some 3 years, going through three re-solings, until I tore a shank loose in one and pitched them.

So, that is it, I do,like some of the light,sticky soled Raichle and Sportiva boots I have had, but, each pair of boots costs me an additional $200+ for my lift and these do not last a year with that, so, I no longer use them as I cannot afford to waste money in that way.

Interesting. I'll have to take a look at those 5.10's

Thanks!

Talking brands is almost useless, as fit is everything. Talking about types of boots has some merit. I've really been trying to push the low end of support this summer in different types of terrain with various loads. Been wearing Teva Raiths and Salomon Fastpacker Mids. Mostly, I miss all leather (nothing fits like all leather) and a stiffer last. I don't miss the weight. Yesterday morning I was making my way off trail up a very steep and loose desert canyon. I found myself wondering if the smearing on gravel I was doing was better than the kick stepping into gravel that I would be doing with my heavier mountain boots. I'll switch back after a while and see. For a lightweight pair of boots (ok... really just tennis shoes), I'm impressed with the fastpackers.

This is all just experimentation on my part though. My default answer is a good pair of all leather mountain boots with a stiff midsole. You shouldn't be able to twist the sole along the long axis with your hands very much if at all.

You can get a lot lower temperature rating out of uninsulated leather boots using VBLs. I carry a couple of pairs of newspaper bags and a pair of liner socks (which I don't normally use) in my winter kit for just this reason. Liner socks with newspaper bags over them with regular socks over those will get you around an extra 20 degrees of comfort.

+ 1 VBL. I've used grocery store bags on winter trips before. I had a friend that complained how cold his feet were in his snowboarding boots, I gave him some grocery bags, he said his feet were never cold again until we got back to the car the next day.

I don't like stiff soles (and I have two pair o mountaineering boots) except for kick stepping or crampon stuff. I think smearing generally works well, in fact looking at the old soles of my 5.10's they look like they were smeared a lot. A lot can be said for technique. I've seen folks descend a combination of scree and hard pan in 8 or 10 minutes, that others will only come down on their butt and take an hour in doing (and tumble 50 rocks along the way). One of the reasons , I prefer no ankle support 95% of the time is you can use more technique. I find sometimes, it's plunge stepping, sometimes it finding the one solid rock buried in the gravel, and being very light on your feet, sometimes, it edging and so on. I find full on boots harder to control technique, thus they will never grip the same regardless of rubber.

I wear Merrell Trail Gloves too, absolutely love them.

Define "serious backcountry hunting conditions"




One hunt in this area will completely round off a new green-dot vibram sole, cutting deep and carving off substantial chunks in the process. What would it do to something softer?

Rocker in a welted boot comes with use.

A rubber rand is a gimmick developed to protect inferior leather and the glued seam between sole and upper. That's it. It serves no other purpose. Waxed roughout leather of appropriate thickness and tan process is about bulletproof.

All that said, you won't see a fifteen mile packout on moraine down south. Nor will you see it most places up here. Maybe a tennis shoe disguised as a boot is appropriate for most of that (that's a joke, sorta).

Vek - what boot are you wearing?

Vek, when I got my new condition but used Asolo Yukons, the sole came off early on in break in. When I took them to the cobbler, he said that the vibram was a tougher European version that required a different glue than that typically found in the states. He reglued them with the correct glue, but also stitched them onto the midsole for extra strength at my request. Have you had your boots resoled since you got them? If so, any details on how long it took to wear the original sole down, what kind of sole you replaced it with, and is it still just glued on or is there any additional stitching?

These:

http://www.alicosport.it/TREKKING%20BOOTS.htm

Bought at STP in 2004.

STP appears to stock a different "guide" now, with some godawful foamy cuff at the top:

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/alico-new-guide-mountaineering-hiking-boots-for-men~p~64724/?filterString=s~alico%2F&colorFamily=05

Probably a concession to folks who think they're too stiff.

Dave Page resoled the boots in December 2010, a few months after the sheep died. The original sole went into that last sheep hunt worn but secure after two other sheep hunts and a couple of WA deer hunts. The sheep hunt killed them and then ate their livers. The sole wore through to the midsole at the arch on both boots and Page had to install a new layer of leather midsole. The resole job is still holding, but stitching would have been a good idea as the sole is starting to separate at the arch on both boots. They need new soles anyway after last year's hunt - you can't make out any distinct lugs around the rim of the sole looking down on them due to wear. He glued but did not stitch them.

Thanks for the info Vek. That seems to be about the same schedule I was accustomed to for resole / rebuild on my fire boots (Whites).

Just noticed that you're using my favorite solo shelter, the Utopia 2. I was mulling / arguing over tents quite a bit this morning and came to the conclusion (again) that for one guy in all conditions or two in a pinch the U2 has it. Freestanding and floorless is a nice combo.

A big part of the conclusion I've come to with boots is that it comes down to weight versus disposability. You can get (a lot) lighter weight and good performance out of the modern construction boots, but you'll have to replace them quite a bit more often than the boots Vek is using. Go with glorified tennis shoes and you're even lighter but replace them annually or more.

Something else that I find interesting. Lots of folks are focusing in on "heel drop" as they move to embrace the natural running and walking paradigm. My old Asolo Yukons have a much more neutral heel than my new school Asolo 600 something (bought from STP, quite a bit heavier than any other Asolos I've seen recently). As always, things come full circle.

I replace shoes pretty much yearly. Mine see a lot of scree and talus in the summer. I once killed a pair of Keen's in one descent off of Mears peak, 2500 ft of plunge stepping in scree did them in.

I find with the low heel drop, that I feel better. IT band issues become minor since the calves are more flexible.

I also don't really like the feel of boots anymore. They are harder on the knees in the hard stuff, and I find I can grip and navigate much better in shoes. The 5.10's are a nice combination, since i can still run in them if I need, haul lots of weight, and go up most anything. The downside, is they wet out and stay wet (neoprene socks) and year over year durability (not that they are poorly made, they just are not in the same class as high end boots). I expect about 2 yrs a pair on them, somewhat better than sneaks.

Thanks for the info Vek.

I'm wearing Limmer Ligthweights that I bought in 2007. The construction looks similar to the boots you're wearing (1 piece leather - stitched soles). I should be able to get one or two more years before a resole.

While I don't hunt Dalls every year, I do spend a considerable amount of time on chukar slopes which seem to eat lesser boots.

This is true, I always have my new boots re-soled with the much superior Italian Vibram and it is nailed and stitched to the slip or mid-soles. I have Scarpa Fuegos and a pair, ordered yesterday, of lighter Zamberlan Nuvalous coming that I will have done.

I have NO choice in wearing boots and have done for over a half century, I have never found any lighter, randed and molded boots that will fit and last like proper FGL, welted ones do. But, different people, places, uses and even personality types will create different choices.

Well, you've certainly got my idea of "serious backcountry use" pegged to a T.

But I'm not buying your outright dismissal of the rubber rand thing as nothing more than a gimmick. I had to have a pair of custom hand-made all-leather boots revamped after a fairly mundane season of chasing mule deer, elk and a lot of chukar hunting here in WA during my college years. I've not had nearly as bad cutting issues with randed boots and there's something to be said for have some waterproof protection while you're stomping through miles of mushy snow. And, the vibram tread pattern was slippery as [bleep] on wet or snowy sidehills. They were next to worthless whenever the rounded vibram would harden up in the cold and wouldn't "smear". As much as I loved the comfortable custom fit for working in the woods or trail cruising, I grew to hate those heavy bastards for hiking and hunting in steeper backcountry. A newish pair of Kene's k-talon tread, or whatever they call it, is like confidently cruising through the woods in corks compared to hard slippery vibram.

I suppose if a guy wanted a family heirloom to pass down through generations, a pair of heavy old-school clunkers would be a good way to go. For everyone else that can just send 'em back to Kenetrek (or Dave Page here in Seattle) for a retread of softer sticky tread every couple years, an off-the-shelf lightweight boot with a short to non-existent break in period ain't a bad way to go. Besides, when it comes down to "best boot", it's really just a personal preference thing and fit has the final say, within reason.

Personally, I've just grown to prefer a relatively lightweight, well constructed, comfortable hunting boot from a reputable manufacturer that I can have completely re-soled/randed once and then demote to yard work or throw away once the uppers eventually just get too soft and/or start breaking down. FWIW, in the bigger picture, the cost of a new pair of Kene's every 3-5 years is probably a bit of a rounding error for most guys.

Yup, I learned that about Vibram Montagna Bloc soles with my first pair in about '67 and won't wear them in cold snow because they can be dangerous.

My Scarpa Concordias have a rand and, even with the utmost caution in treating them with Obenauf's LP, it still loosened and is a real beotch to glue so it stays where it was placed. I had these boots, thoroughly waxed with Obie's in Sept. 2006 and we drove into "The Flathead" from Vancouver, on opening day. There was a very severe snow and ice storm and we went hiking up a century-old trail on some tracks....these fine boots got wet in the moderately damp (for BC) snow and my feet were damned cold.

So, I still prefer something like the FGLS as I have fewer wet outs and better fit-support with them. But, I gotta agree on boot weight and I wish I could wear the lighter ones in most conditions.

I had this pair of Raichles, about 2000,lasted just under two years, but, they had a sole of some black goop that stuck like schit to a blanket and even a gimpy old phart like me could really climb slick rocks wearing them.

There really is no "perfect" or "best" boot, my preferences tend to agree with Evans, I hate wearing "corks" unless I have to and I have worn my share of them. I also have and tried the various "Claws" soles and am pretty much blase about them, especially in deep mud and,again, on frozen snow.

I listened to EdT and bought some of these Kahtoola alloy crampons and I wish I had had these when I started this stuff, very good for old guys with bum legs and packs.

Kutenay,

I used Obenaufs Oil and LP exclusively after learning about them either here or on Kifaru. They are high quality leather conditioners, but as I understand it they are mink oil derivatives and, as such, will eventually delaminate the rubber rand material from the boot. Plus, I think it had a tendency to soften leather a little too much.

Not wanting another delaminations issue, I was assured by Joe at Kenetrek that the boot wax they throw in with their boots wouldn't just do the same. If memory serves it has a fair amount of beeswax and vegetable oil. It seems to work fairly well at keeping the leather conditioned and supportive when applied judiciously. I don't overdo it. I don't think there is a whole lot of sense in weighing a lightweight pair of "waterproof" boots down 5 lbs. of leather conditioner. It a potent sweet smell too it - though not entirely unpleasant, that is not soon diminished.

You might give it a shot if you decide to go ahead the a pair of Kene Teni's.

Allen

Obie's has beeswax and propolis, a derivative of the bees "comb" and no mink oil. I think that you are thinking of "Montana Pitch Blend", another US-made H2O-"proofer" and one I have used a lot.

It WILL add a hard "glaze" to any leather and I like it for knife sheaths, belts and any other such items, but, prefer Obie's for boots. Any wax or oil will eventually tend to loosen rubber rands and I totally agree on amounts of this on your boots.

I just saw, somewhere, a boot with an "eVent" lining and that really does interest me, as my experience with this material ahs been just outstanding. I am past winter N. 3, wearing an ID "Thruhiker" everyday in Vancouver and it has been known to "sprinkle" here and not one leak...so, like most gear, we may yet see advances that will make things easier.

I intend to try the Kene's stuff, I am always interested in better footwear,given the orthopaedic issues I have. I want the "Mountain Safari" boots and then will use their goop on them.

I'm certainly no boot expert here and will give way to most here now but have come to the conclusion, that for me, heavy full-grain leather uppers -- true, stiff and heavy --with a heavy Vibram sole work best. Which I think points to the fact that ultimately individual choice may vary a bit even among knowledgeable trekkers. While I'm not a serious mountain hunter meaning at least an every-year ten day hunt above timber line I have elk hunted in the high places enough in most western states to have seen flimsy synthetic panels wear through on hard scrabble and have glued soles part company with me. I have found insulated boots (not pacs) are something my feet don't need, especially with KOM gaiters. My latest and last pair are Alico Guides at one size above my shoe size; I wear a syn liner and a medium wool sock and add a good extra insole.

These go against my usual aversion to extra weight because they are heavy and some may call them "clunky" but my feet and especially my ankles are happy in them. Prep them with Obenaufs (as I do some of our leather furniture) and they work for me.

FWIW..

The "best" hiking/hunting boots are the ones that fit you, are comfortable, and don't produce blisters.

All the rest is academic (ie., bullchit).

That's my take for me but comimg from you I'll take it as gospel..

George, my comments were tagged on to yours, not a response to what you wrote.

I get "tired" of these wearisome threads where tablets are brought down from the mountain proclaiming "the best."

There is no such thing, just what works for a given individual.

Great construction is wonderful... but if it's uncomfortable it's moot.

I'll take lesser construction that's comfortable if forced to chose.

I used to feel the same way. Now Danners cause my toes to go numb. I had to switch. Lowa's have served me well for the last few years.