I know this has been covered before, but I thought I would see what's new out there. I picked up a pair of Crispi boots and the sales rep at the local store said to only use silicone spray on them, but that stuff has a horibble smell. I have always used Obenauf's LP products and I would think this would still work good to protect them and prolong the life of these boot. It took many hours of overtime to pay for these, but I feel they are worth the investment.

Any suggestions on using something different that has been proven?

Bees wax. Heat the wax to liquid, warm the boots with a hair dry and paint on the wax. Let it absorb and reapply if necessary.

I'd contact Crispi and use what they recommend vs. what the sales rep of a local store told me.

That bees wax sounds like a pretty good trick, thanks for sharing!!

I guess I should just call them I guess, see what they have to say about it.
I'll post back once I talk with them.

I have a pair off Crispis that I love and have worn for three years now and agree they're worth the investment. Although I've used Obenauf's in the past with good results I decided to use Kenetrek boot wax because Kenetrek claims it was specially formulated to ensure the rubber rand wouldn't separate from the leather. Although I have no proof that other waxes would be bad I can tell you that three years of kenetrek wax has worked great on my boots.

Docbill;
Good evening to you sir, hopefully this finds you well.

I'll second your method as the best one I've run onto to date.

I've done my Danners, Meindls and work boots too. It stays for at least 6 months on the work boots and seems to make them less susceptible to cuts as they are a wee bit more "slippery" for lack of a better term.

Good luck to the OP in waterproofing his boots and all the best to you all this spring.

Dwayne

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone, I really appreciate it!!

Like I stated yesterday, I'll contact Crispi today and report back, but the hot bees wax sounds pretty good to me. The Kenetreck wax is a great option as well.

The bees wax will stiffen the boots. The Obenauf's will not stiffen as much. I've done both and for Danner type boots I like the bees wax. For my Lowa Hunter extremes I like the Obenauf's better. My 2 cents of experience.

I've used both Kenetrek Boot Wax and Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP. I apply both with my (bare) hands to work the wax into the boots. Both work fine but, my boots seem to absorb the Obenauf's just a little better and without excess residue. I like both. A hair dryer helps to speed up the process. The boots on which I use these waxes on include Kenetrek Mountain Extremes, Asolo Sasslong and a pair of snake boots.

Well, what'd they say?

So I talked with Crispi and what they stated as the best treatment for their boots was Nikwax. Beeswax based treatments will clog the pores of the leather and won't allow the Goretex to work properly. Goretex is designed to allow a boot to breath but keep moisture out. When the leather gets clogged up, there ends up being a layer of moisture between the Goretex and the inside of the leather that can't go anywhere. I had heard this before, but could never verify it until I talked with the customer service rep at Crispi.

So now the question is has anyone used the Nikwax treat the before and how do you like the way it holds up to use?

However...the Goretex bootie is on the inside next to your feet. Yes, it'll stop the water, but it won't keep it out of the insulation. After a few hours in wet, sloppy snow, the insulation is saturated. Your feet might be dry but it's like putting a plastic bag over your socks and standing in ice water. What I would like is a way to keep the insulation dry.

I use a number of leather boots for different tasks. For backcountry backpack hunting where I cover many miles and may pack in and out a heavy load, side-hilling, etc., I'm wearing Kenetrek Extremes for support. Bowhunting when covering lots of ground and hiking with a light pack and have no need for side-hilling with a heavy pack, etc., I'm wearing Redwing 914. Between those two ends, I wear several different leather boots for different chores, running in the $300 to $500 price range.

Things I've confirmed true to me with my use and experience:

A high end quality boot leather will have tight enough pores that they can be made waterproof to a durable degree, even without a waterproof bootie, using beeswax. This would be on the extreme end of hard use in very wet conditions.

Mink oil use does soften leather, and though I use it routinely on certain boots I own which are designed to be soft and comfortable, I would not use it on boots designed to give support with stiff leather, especially if the leather is dry tanned.

Nikwax works well on my light hiking boots, but it appears to me to work more like an invisible water-repellent finish (DWR) that is not near as "durable" as other applications when exposed to hard and rough use.

For hard use wearing stiffer support backpack boots, such as my Kenetreks, especially if the boot has a rubber rand, I've had great results using their Kenetrek Boot Wax. Even with Thinsulation and a waterproof membrane bootie, this boot wax has worked top shelf for most anything I've thrown its way. Not to the degree of raw waterproof as straight beeswax, but a great balance of protection without making the boots act like a non-breathable sweat box. In comparison to something along the lines of Montana Pitch Blend, I find the Kenetrek Boot Wax to be superior when it comes to a treatment for these stiffer boots, which you'd want to stay stiff for needed support.

When it comes to softer leather boots with a membrane bootie, I'll use either the mink oil, or something along the lines of the Pitch Blend if I need an added level of waterproofing. Hard working boots, such as loggers, needing an extra heavy level of protection, but not to the degree of straight beeswax, I'll generally use something like Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP.

I do not have cold feet and generally do not need much if any boot insulation. Something suggested to me many years ago by AJ Brooks when the trend in mountain boots were going toward membrane booties, was to get boots with some insulation. The lower levels of Thinsulate insulation does not make your feet too hot, but better maintains your feet at a constant temperature, even when in warmer conditions. The added benefit with this insulation is that it speeds the drying of moisture from inside your boot, similar to how stuffing your boots with dry newsprint overnight helps wick out moisture. I have repeatedly proven their advice to be true and correct with my experiences. So as a result and example, my Kenetrek Extremes having a membrane and Thinsulate insulation. When combined with their boot wax and good socks, my feet stay comfortable and dry, without any degrading of the boot leather, to include while backpack hunting many miles over numerous days. One trip using my current pair, I covered 21 miles in three days in rugged country with lots of rain, side-hilling, scree slopes, etc., and the wax held up well, my boots managed the moisture, my feet stayed dry, and the leather maintained support and did not wet out. I am not confident an application of Nikwax would have held up like the "greased" leather.

Best of luck

I've used and been pleased with Nikwax. They have different products. The "sponge on" or dauber type worked pretty well for leather boots and was more durable than I expected. It doesn't fill the leather like wax. The spray on type worked well on surfaces away from contact and fabric but didn't last as long on the toe section after walking through grass, brush, wet snow, etc. You might consider using wax on the front quarters and toe section with Nikwax on the less exposed part of the boot.

Thanks for the real world experience report!!

That has been a thought I've had as well, treating different areas differently, but u was really hoping to be able to find some type of middle ground and run with that. I'm kinda leaning towards the Kenetreck wax and see what happens as well. With Kenetrek based here in Bozeman I'll get a chance to go down there and visit with them about this as well.

If a boot is truly water proof, one will get wet from the inside. If one wants water proof, he has to go with impermeable rubber or plastics and in cold temps will still experience condensation.

The only boots that will keep my feet dry for a full day of hiking in rain, slush, or wet mud are my packs, and that's simply because there's 1/2 to 3/4 inch of wool insulation between me and their outer surfaces. I dry the boots overnight and swap out spare liners daily.

When we get one of those 90+ hot summer days all of my boots go outside into the sun and get lathered up with whatever treatments the builders suggest. Makes them somewhat water resistant, but certainly not water proof. With the exception of my waders and irrigators, I've never seen water proof boots.

Regardless of treatment, a permeable boot is going to get wet with a couple days of hard use in wet conditions.

The coldest my feet have ever been was in pack boots. The day started out warm and sunny hiking in 10" of snow. My heavy socks got wet from sweat. After noon, it turned cold with the temp dropping from 40 to about 20 in an hour. I was 2 miles from the truck. By the time I got there, my feet were close to frostbite from the water in the boots.

Two questions after reading this thread:

Why not wool socks if your feet are bound to get wet? Wouldn't the wool keep them warm enough?

Goretex is fine in light applications. But its not waterproof like they claim and its one of the biggest jokes out there in real wet weather IMHO>

I"d bee's wax em and not worry about the fact you had to pay for the goretex name in the boot...

ANd yes, we wear a liner sock to get moisture away from the foot when sweating, poly pro of some type usually, followed by a wool sock.

I stepped off into a bog in Colorado once... it did not look like it could be much of anything, but with full pack on I"m glad it dropped off right away and that I grabbed a spruce sapling... my left foot never touched any bottom, and was up to my waist when I caught myself.

Water was cold in late September at 10K feet.

Wife and I were hiking out, and we went far enough that the pants and socks were basically dry by that evening. Cotton would not have been so friendly.

I have used obenhaufs LP on many pairs of Meindls. So far I have had no issues. I use both the LP and in between treatments their boot oil as well.

Yes. Wool socks and wool liners. I have no use for poly anything. If I'm in snow and wearing my packs I fold the pant legs over the top and lace them to the boot. No snow makes it in and I can wade streams without a drop of water making it into the tops.

If wool socks do get soaked, take them off, ring or shake them out, suit back up, and one should be good to go.

On an elk hunt Cookie and I once undressed, put our packs on (sans liners and socks) and waded the waist deep Minam river to get out after bagging our elk. Used my t-shirt to dry the interior of our packs on the other side, put everything back together and on, and continued on our merry way.

Another deal if one is on an extended trip (like 14 to 21 days in the back country) is to take spares of everything that's truly critical. Boots/socks certainly fit that category if one does not have absolute faith in his equipment.

A friend tells a story of hiking back from an Alaska sheep hunt with duct tape holding the tops and soles of his boots together. Not a pleasant idea at all. ALWAYS get the best gear one can afford.

Use an antiperspirant on your feeties to reduce the sweat factor.

Backpacker Magazine did a review of several water proofing agents and Sno-Seal Beeswax was tops‎. Best I can recall, they weren't an advertiser like some of the other competitors either.

I used Nikwax on a pair of Kenetreks at their recommendation. It was quite happy with it. The only downside I saw is that they had to be retreated a bit more often, but with the dauber/sponge bottle that was quite easy.

Funny that Kenetrek recommended Nikwax, since they sell a beeswax boot paste.

to add, I have not been overly impressed with sno seal anything. Better than nothing, but not great.

Mink oil

I'm not putting synthetics on my redwings.

You can always ignite kiwi paste wax, that will cause a chemical reaction in the Naphtha allowing a thinner carrier and more penetration of the base carnuba.

Problem with too much oil is it can overly soften the leather and cause the boot to lose structure.
My longtime favorite for all my leather boots is Montana Pitch Blend. It uses a mix of beeswax, mink oil and pine pitch.

Another vote for Pitch Blend.

+1 for Crispis and Kenetrek Boot Wax. It just works for me!

donsm70

Crisco

The big advantage of Crisco is it's easier to eat your boots when starving in the woods.

Didn't the Indians use beaver tail fat?

IIRC I bought the boots and got the recommendation in about '06 or '07. At that time, they sold the Nikwax and didn't sell the beeswax paste. The Nikwax cam in the box with the boots as I ordered them online.

Crisco probably works, to a degree, Vaseline too. However there are much better products for the task.

A few years ago, everyone was excited about a new product called Neverwet that was just coming on the market. It was put on with spray cans in 2 layers, a waterproofing layer followed by a protective layer. It would make water just bead up.
Now it's being sold by Rustoleum.

I tried it on an old pair of boots. What a joke. It left the boots mottled white to start with. Then it wore off within a day of hunting. It sure turned water when new but it didn't last long enough to get to the water. It was like wearing rubber boots. Water couldn't get in or out.

Now they have out a version made for fabrics but I'm not inclined to spend the money on it.

not a fan of sno seal. at all.
I am a fan of Obenauf's. Been using it for 5-6 years now. Havent seen a need to try anything else.

My choice is pure beeswax, but it is more trouble to apply than good stuff like Montana or Obeneuf's. I beeswaxed my Asolo boots this evening, taking my time as I did other chores and spent an hour at it.

Warmed the boots very slowly and cautiously in the oven (risky!) with one minute bursts of bake heat a few times with the oven door closed. Microwaved the bees wax slowly till it melted and applied to comfortably warm leather boots with a toothbrush. It congealed quite a bit so I went over it again with a hair dryer and the toothbrush, taking care not to heat the leather too much in any one spot.

I do that about once a year. Will wear the boots on a wet west coast bear hunt starting Wed. so freshened up the waterproofing though it was still good.

Ditto to a strong dislike of SnoSeal.

Beeswax in use report: Four days of rain while walking through dense brush much of the time, 18 stream crossings 2-5 inches deep, six of them salt water gravel, sand and barnacles with wading stretches up to 30 yards across. Leather boots are bone dry inside and still waxy on the outside.

In August '97 I saved an article from backpacker magazine where they did an extensive scientific test of a number of boot waterproofing compounds, titled "The Truth Leaks Out". In short many of the treatments mentioned here were used in that test. The test consisted basically of 1st one, and then a second application of the treatments on leather pieces and placed them in a Maeser Tester, which flexed them and bends them and dips them in water over and over, as if being worn by a hiker, and measures when water penetrates the sample. The three best products in the test were Kiwi Camp Dry Heavy-Duty Water Repellent Spray 18,400/14,400 flexes, Nikwax Aqueous Wax 19,000, 24,000 flexes, and Tectron Boot/Shoe Protector 14,500/47,000 flexes. Most of the bees wax combination, mink oil, etc types were on the order of 4,000 flexes or less Aqua Seal 7,300/10,100. This test doesn't truly factor in the abrasive nature of walking through wet grass and snow but, its about as close as we're going to get. Sno-Seal, often recommended was 3,400/4,000. My use of these various products in the wet north east, Alaska, and the last 18 years in Montana's dry northwest supports the use of Nikwax Aqueous and Tectron with a libral coating of Montana Pitchblend over the top. Nice thing about the Nikwax Aqueous is you can put it on your already wet boots before they dry.

IrishRover, that is GOOD info! And a more realistic test than these silly pics of immersing a boot for awhile.

I had almost mentioned the NikWax milky stuff earlier as my quick fix go-to when I don't have time to beeswax or I'm on an extended trip. Once used, it conflicts with getting good good penetration of pure beeswax however.

Do you know if they tested pure beeswax rather than the various commercial products which add softeners and penetrating agents to make it easier to apply? My beef with all such ingredients is that IME they degrade the beeswax.

what about getting toilet bee wax seal for couple bucks and melting that down should work and is cheap in price

I don't think toilet seals are bees wax. They're a synthetic. I have no idea if they'd work but I suspect that they'd stay gooey forever, just like they do under a toilet. I suggest trying it on a worn out pair of boots instead of a $200 pair.

No true beeswax by itself in the test. Would have been a good idea.

Has anyone ever had any issues with specific products causing separation between the leather and rubber rand?

Toilet rings "USED TO BE" beeswax at one time. Correct that they no longer are.

I think they are some sort of polyurethane material now.