I’m flush with p365’s.

Other than a Ruger single Sox, never had a revolver.


Things are scarce now, next weekend in tax free for MS. Good reason as any.

How’s the s&w 637 for a beginner / entry level gun?

.38 special is still plentiful in these parts.


Would rather stick with a Ruger or s&w. No Taurus’.

How’s the 637 compare to lcrx?

I prefer the S&W 642 because you can shoot it from a jacket pocket if needed and the is no hammer exposed to catch on something when pulling it from a pants pocket.

Not the most fun revolver for shooting enjoyment. Fine as a carry gun. If you’re after something for the range maybe look into an older K frame 38 or 357, 19, 66, 67, 14, 15 if you want adjustable sites or the good old M10 if fixed sites will do it for you. They can still be had fairly reasonable and are much easier and more comfortable to shoot.

I carry a Ruger sp101 in .357 mag. It fits in the front pocket of khakis or cargo pants easily. It’s a little on the heavy side but not a problem. And I carried a Smith 442 for years before that but felt under-gunned. And I like the option of being able to shoot SA. The exposed hammer hasn’t been an issue.

What he said.

When it comes to double action revolvers, twenty or thirty year old S&W K Frames can be a heck of a bargain. They have smoother actions and just look better than many of the more recent versions. Even if they are in need of some repair, tuning them up (or having it done) is still no particular problem. A four inch, three inch, two and a half inch, or two inch barreled K Frame can also make a fine carry gun, if some thought is given to the appropriate carry method. Most K Frame revolvers can deliver absolutely outstanding double action accuracy (equal to or exceeding single action), with sufficient practice to master the technique. With speed loaders, K Frame firepower can rival that of semi-autos (just ask Jerry Miculek).

Light weight S&W J Frame revolvers can also be shot quite accurately, but take far more skill (practice) to make that happen. So, they’re not a particularly good choice for a first double action revolver.

Thanks for the info.

More models to look at...

This won’t be a concealed carry gun.

It’ll be a around d the yard, on the tractor, fishing gun.

as much as i like ruger single action revolvers, im not a fan of ruger doubles: got rid of a sp101 and lcr, both in 38sp, they just didn’t “fit” me, ymmv. i have and greatly like both s&w and taurus 38 j frames, but i replaced the factory grips with aftermarket pachmayr or hogue grips. no longer pocketable, but i don’t pocket carry anyway. i pair 38sp airweight snubbies with wadcutter ammo, which is hard to find, as am not a recoil fan. a steel taurus 85 shoots just fine with 158gr fmj ball ammo. if o.p. needs an outdoors piece i would choose an exposed hammer for more accurate single action shots. if you buy new, taurus has reverted to a lifetime warranty if you register online within 30 days of purchase. taurus also introduced a new line of 3” 38sp revolvers, with the longer barrel likely more useful for outdoor tasks, but still useful as a ccw. good luck to o.p., you cant go wrong with a 38sp revolver.

In that case the Ruger SP101 .357 with a 3" barrel would be what I would chose, heck that is what I got. I think they may make it with a 4" barrel now.

You kinda talked like it would be an entry level type gun. Then again you said you had had a Single Six. No snubbie, CCW is something to really start on unless you're gonna use low-power loads. Then you said it wouldn't be CCW. The only reason I can think of for that small of a gun that's NOT CCW, is just convenience of carry in a relatively hot climate.

I think that's a good gun for the breed...simply because it's a S&W. They ain't as good as they once was, but they're as good once, as they ever was.

For your use, I'd get a Governor. Much more versatile and more shot than a .38 if you're killin' a serpent. Just bulkier. They aren't heavy. Well, until you load 'em.

I like the recommendation of a nice K-frame (M10, 13, 64, 65, 67) or the same things in .357. All are pretty nice and smooth, and light enough for woods tromping and such. I do NOT like the J-frames for that sort of thing.

My latest is the LCRx3, which has a 3" barrel and adjustable sights. It's very light for carry, but sturdy as in .38 Spec. +P.

I also have the older, hammerless LCR, S&W M-19, steel J frame with hammer, aluminum J frame hammerless 442.

The LCR's have better out of the box DA triggers than the 442, my 442 trigger is better after a trigger job. LCR's don't need a trigger job. Ruger hit a home run, IMO, with the geometry of the hammer, trigger engagement for smooth DA pull.

My older steel J frame dates back to the 60's, is pretty smooth.

DF

I like the Airweight S&W J-Frame .38s They're just right for a very specific niche application. These days, however, quality control can be spotty. But if yours has a problem, they will fix or replace it. Basically, in place of quality control, they send them all out to customers, and let the customers evaluate them for quality, rather than paying their own staff to do it, these days. I've had to send at least two brand new Airweight J-Frames back for that, and both times they sent me back a good working gun.

But I have to assume I was just unlucky. Likely, the vast majority coming from the factory are problem-free. Once you get one that works as designed, with no defects in manufacture, (which, in most cases, will be the case), they are great little guns for their intended, specialized, purpose.

Agreed. That or the Bodyguard version, with the shrouded hammer, which serves the same purpose.

Oh, well, if that's the case, go with an all steel K-Frame model. If you can find one, get a pre-1982 made one on the used market, that's in good mechanical shape. I just the other day shot a snake in my hen house with an old Model 10 .38, using snake shot. These are great guns for your intended purposes. You don't need a tiny Airweight for that application.

This is the revolver I used on the snake, a 1952-made S&W Model 10 with a six inch barrel. The first shot put three pellets in its head, but it was still writhing around, so I dragged it onto the grass and put a load on its head from closer up, turning it into hamburger (picture of snake was taken before the coup de grace shot).

The early post-war K-frames are just awesome. Quality was at its peak and the guns were made to shoot (forever). Minty ones can be found for less than a king's ransom. This 5" came with the original box, for less than $600.00.
Bob

That's a tremendous bargain.

I've only had to send one S&W revolver back. It's a 686+. Came back with an excellent action and trigger job. Was getting light primer strikes and latent discharge prior.

The recommendations for a K-frame are spot on but even if it's not a carry piece a J-frame isn't bad as a yard, tractor, fishing gun due to about a 10 ounce weight reduction. I'm thinking specifically of an old school Model 36 with a 3" barrel. It has fixed sights like a Model 10 but they can be very effective out as far as you'd likely use one, say 30-50 feet or thereabouts. You'd probably want to change grips, those tiny little service stocks are too small for most hands but a Pachmayr Compact or similar fills the hand while retaining the smaller profile.

Since Colt snake guns are priced out of reasonable range as everyday shooters folks are starting to inflate S&W prices and have been for a few years now. Lots of offerings in the $700+ range but if you look and bide your time you can still find something in the mid-$500 range. Anything less than that (as long as it's not a total rat) qualifies as a good buy nowadays.

Here's an interesting one on gunbroker right now, a 3" Model 36 that someone modified with adjustable sights. The front sight looks kind of bubba but the rear sight seems to be installed well. Price right now is reasonable enough, could be a bidding war at the last minute but it's not something a S&W collector would want so the price could stay reasonable.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/876151156

Just thinking out loud but I wonder why S&W never produced a .38 version of the Model 34 or Model 63, i.e. a 4", half lug J-frame with adjustable sights in .38 Spl. They have various Model 60's and they made a few Model 36's with a 3" full lug barrel and adjustable sights but those .22 kit guns were and are so popular it would seem natural to chamber the same thing in a centerfire round.

If you aren't worried about the hammer I'd go with the 637, i was partial to my 637 over my 442/642. I passed on a 2 1/2in 638 (only one I've ever seen in person) a few months back..that would have been a good one.

I think I have 5 J frames. They all have a job. One in my pocket, one at front door, one in wife’s car and another in her purse. Have a spare. I shoot all of them. But as others have said I have several K frames. They are a lot more fun to shoot. Hasbeen

Thanks everyone.


When looking at used revolvers, other than overall condition, what to look for?

Is timing of the cylinder a thing?

I'd check for solid lock up, cylinder motion side to side, front to back.

And, of course proper cycling, DA and SA.

Cock hammer and see if you can push it forward off sear engagement.

To me, generally, the way they look is a pretty good reflection on how they'll function. But, that's not always 100%.

DF

Check YouTube for demonstrations on how to check out a used S&W K-Frame revolver. You should check for timing and end shake. Also check that the ejector rod is straight. Test out the feel of both the double and single action trigger pull for all six chambers.

This is a good tutorial.

Get a 4” S&W .357 (any model you like) if you want a DA. Get a 4 5/8” Ruger Blackhawk .357 if you want SA.

Blackhawk comes in 2 sizes. Most are the larger frame, which are stout but a bit larger than needed. The reintroduced ‘flattop’ is still stout, but in a smaller frame. Both will do fine work.

Yeah, for your needs, a .357 Magnum Ruger Blackhawk would be just fine, too.

I like that looks of that.

On GB, how to tell deference between “regular” and “flattop” versions?

Ruger

Lipsey’s Flattops are at the bottom of this page. They may be hard to find right now. A regular Blackhawk works very well too. You can get a convertible that has an extra 9mm cylinder. Handy during normal times if you don’t reload. Now, .38/.357 is probably easier to find than 9mm.

The Blackhawk is a great option too for a general use revolver. I have an old 4 5/8” New Model that looks like garbage I bought for $125. It may look rough but it shoots like a rifle and has never hiccuped with anything from midrange wadcutters to fire breathing 357 loads. I shot it last night after not having had it out in a year or so. 5 of the first 6 shots rang the 14”x14” steel plate I have hanging at the 100 yard line.

Newbie question....

38 special can be shot in the 357/9mm convertible Blackhawk?

.38 Special can be fired from the .357 Magnum cylinder. To shoot 9mm requires a cylinder swap.

Of course. You’d use the Magnum cylinder.

Thanks! 👍

For added excitement, Long and Short 38 Colt are ok in the magnum cylinder. Starline stocks the brass. I have to admit I've not done this myself. It's perfectly safe, just kind of one of those do it just to do it ideas.

I tried that too in this one. Accuracy was not very good, though.
Bob

As mentioned by "trplem", the 38 Long Colt is a low-recoil round that works in the 38 or 357 cylinders. The brass is readily available from Starline or Midway, etc. and there are some published loads (Hodgdon) that are good for plinking, short range egg-stealers and such. I load my wife's 642 with 105 gr or 125 gr lead truncated cone bullets, usually from Colorado Cast (125) or Missouri Bullet Co. (105) for her practice shooting. The +P duty rounds live in the gun the remainder of the time.

Otherwise, the 38 Special is my go-to round in double or single action revolvers. It can be mild or wild, depending on your particular loading preference and can be very economical to load. Good factory ammunition is available for CCW and the +P versions are substantial but still controllable by smaller hands. 357 capability is a nice alternative, since it shoots the 38 Long Colt, regular 38 Special, 38 +P and 357 without fuss.