New Delta Elite - 24hourcampfire

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Picked up a new delta elite yesterday. went to the range at lunch with 180 gr hydrashoks and 180 gr pms fmj. accuracy was a little better with the hydrashoks. I LIKE IT. looking for any advice on fine tuning this piece. i want to handload it up a little over the factory stuff. i am going to use my manuals, but does anyone have good first hand experience to pass along? do i need to put in a full length guide rod, buffers, etc? the ultimate goal of this piece is to be my outdoors hiking/hunting sidearm.

Hi. I'm a big fan of the 10 mm. Mine is a 1006 S&W. First of all, your pistol should have dual recoil springs. You really don't need to change much, if anything. Second, it's generally acknowledged that getting powder happy with the 10 mm is a bad idea. It is loaded pretty hot as is, except for your Hydra-Shok ammo. It has a small case, and limited powder capacity. Therefore, pressure can jump pretty quickly. The cartriage also has a reputation for eating up guns. I was told that once my Smith is worn out, it can't be rebuilt. I dunno about Colts. Anyway, another good reason not to push the limits of the 10 mm. It's got lots of power, and it shoots flat, all in a tough, compact frame. All I did to mine was add adjustible sights. Have fun. E.

Chutestraight, Wilson Shok buffs,use 'em or your frame wont last as long as it could. 1pc full length guide rod and Wolff springs,same as above. High quality lube to prevent galling. Keep your loads at or under SAAMI spec. and don't run hot loads through the same brass more than 3 times. You have an unsupported case head,and lots of pressure.The strength of your brass at the head is the only thing between you and a KB,and possibly a wrecked pistol.Heed the max listed loads,cartridge OAL's,and specific components listed in the manuals,and work your way up to max. The 10mm is a freaky,peaky,stressed out cartridge from the start.Don't push it! Do NOT swap your mainspring for a lighter one to acheive a lighter trigger. The resistence from the hammer pressure against the firing pin stop is critical to slide velocity under recoil operation. Go to a lighter mainspring and your slide will hammer the frame. It's a 1911 that is maxed out as far as it will go for pressures,don't push it. Keep an eye on the recoil spring.They are CHEAP! if you think it's getting wimpy,swap it for a new one and swap the firing pin return spring at the same time. For accuracy have a 'smith fit the frame and slide,fit a proper bushing,and possibly a new fitted barrel if yours cannot be built up for a good fit. If you wish to go on the cheap,the Dwyer group gripper does a good job and comes as a 1pc guide rod assy. killing 2 birds with 1 stone. These are lessons I have learned hot rodding the .45super in the 1911,and reports back from buds that had the 10mm speed itch in the late 80's and early 90's. The 10mm is awesome if you respect it's quirks,and the 1911's limitations. Good luck,be safe,and have FUN! E4E------------------ Remove the mechanical variables,and then you can only blame yourself! http://home.intekom.com/upfront/cost.htm