I've loaded thousands of rifle cartridges for 40 some years but never ever for a handgun.
Anything a rifle loader would miss ?
Like crimping? Is it necessary? Factory loads don't appear to be crimped.
Case and/or complete cartridge OAL critical?

Lastly - I haven't looked at manuals but is blue dot useable in the 9mm?

Thanks in advance
Dave

Factory loads are crimped, but it's a taper crimp. Take a factory load that works well in your gun, measure the case mouth on the loaded round and set your taper crimp die to achieve the same case mouth diameter on your loaded round. The taper crimp is essential for reliable ammunition in an auto loader, and is the most common issue when ammunition isn't working in an otherwise reliable gun.

The second issue is cartridge overall length, so watch that closely. Get those two right and chances are the ammo will work just fine.

I like titegroup a lot in mine. It's a good powder in every way, but you do have to keep an eye on a potential double charge. The progressive I use has an alarm for this, but it is one that can happen with so be alert when using it.

The two things to be aware of are crimping and bullet seating depth. With rifles it rare to have a loaded round that will fit in the mag but not chamber, seems more common in auto loaders.

Don't have any data handy, but I believe blue dot would be way too slow for the 9. I've used bullseye and unique and both work great in the 9.

Here's a good image to show how to check seating depth and crimp when setting up your dies.

Hard to beat W 231 in the 9mm. I have used Bluedot in a 357 mag but found out the hard way that the dots in the powder do not burn and will bind a revolver and auto up.

Thanks guys. I use BD for reduced loads but sounds like I need something else if I start loading for the 9mm....

Blue dot can give some of the highest possible velocities in the 9mm. See the Speer manual or Alliant�s on line loading guide. Crimping is fairly critical on an auto pistol. I use a Lee Factory crimp die on mine, it adds a step, but the finished product is absolutely reliable.

It is imperative with semi-auto handloads that the bullet not set back in feeding. Poor functioning and accuracy can result, and possibly even high pressure, creating a hazard. Some factory ammo actually has a crimp in the case just below the bullet base to help prevent setback.

Make sure the case tightly grips the bullet. The expander plug should be no more than .351" dia for a 9mm, and smaller does not hurt. Yes, you see a slight step in the case below the bullet, which some find unsightly, but that step is one of the features that prevents setback.

As others have noted, a firm taper crimp is required, but the crimp alone cannot replace the tight fit. You want both.

I like to use either an RCBS or Redding carbide sizer, then a modified expander plug die, then seat in a Redding Competition Seating Die (spendy) then finish with either a RCBS or Redding taper crimp die.

Lots of bullets & powder work well in the 9mm. I'd lean toward Titegroup for mild loads, and AA#7 or Power Pistol for warmish defensive loads.

I noticed recently Speer's 124gr Gold Dots are starting to be in stock at stores. That's probably the best bullet for defensive use available to reloaders.

Good Luck!

I load 5.0 gr Unique under a 147gr XTP. About 1080 fps or so in my Glock 17.

I like the boat-tail on the 147 XTP. No need to flare case mouths, or crimp.

Blue Dot data for 9mm:

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=10&cartridge=23

Only thing I'd add is that it pays to buy a chamber gauge to check your ammo. Cartridges should drop in to full depth (but not TOO deep!) and fall out again for proper function. You can pull the barrel from your pistol to do this, but a chamber gauge is set up to SAAMI specs so you know your ammo will work in ALL 9mm guns, not just your current pistol.

Will brands of brass matter? What about mixed headstamps?

Shouldn't matter what brass you use, as long as it's all headstamped 9X19 or 9mm Luger or 9mm Parabellum. I don't load to maximum in this caliber though, so take that FWIW.

Thanks Doc. At least one thing that is easier......no wonder lots of guys just buy their 9mm ammo.

Shane- you don't crimp this load due to the bullet?

OAL is important with the 9mm.

Dave, I don't crimp mainly because I don't need to flare the case mouth to start the bullet. I suppose a 147 gr puts more bearing surface in the case than some of the shorter bullets do as well. Never had any bullet slippage.

Once you get the hang of the requirements and slight differences vs. rifle ammo, it's no big deal. I was able to shoot my 9 for next to nothing, range pickup brass, cast bullets from a lee 105 swc mold.



a primer and a dose of unique and I had an accurate load I could put together for ~$5/100.

I'm figuring out that unless you get bullets cheap you are not saving much on plinking ammo....

I can find bullets all the time for under a dime each. Add a nickel for primer and powder. That's $15/100. Most plinking ammo here is about $18/50.

NTG- $10 per 100 is good for jacketed bullets. I can buy Win white box at Wally World for $28.88 per 100 or Fed for $1 less.

Precision Delta is where it's at. They're good plinkers. They've been back ordered for some time, however. I do have some RMR plated bullets me and a buddy bought and so far they're shooting fine.