on revolvers, especially magnum revolvers.
Is there any way to prevent this from happening?
(other than not shooting the revolver, lol)
I’ve never seen a top strap that was flame cut bad enough to be a problem. Cutting usually stops without going too deep. 357 magnums are probably the worst offenders. But I wouldn’t worry about flame cutting.
There is one worse than .357 Magnum... .22 Jet...and my S&W 53 had over 1000 rounds of Jet through and after the initial flame cutting it stopped. Saw a post the other day of someone who had 5K of Jet through a gun with no problem...so it isn't a problem unless you have an aluminum frame gun like the S&W Airlites...that is why they put the stainless steel flash gap protector on them...you will ruin a gun if you continue to shoot them after the protector is used up...
Bob
Stress none about flame cutting.
Normal. Minor and minimal.
That was supposedly a problem with the Ruger .357 Maximum but I never saw one that it looked bad enough to be a problem. I believe Ruger put some kind of “plate” on the top strap to prevent it. Or maybe I am losing my mind and it was an after market fix
Smith & Wesson puts a steel wear plate on their scandium frame models like the 329 and 360. I read even those plates wore through. I don't really shoot mine, they are for carry, not ammo burners. 360 is painful to shoot with 357s.
Smith & Wesson puts a steel wear plate on their scandium frame models like the 329 and 360. I read even those plates wore through. I don't really shoot mine, they are for carry, not ammo burners. 360 is painful to shoot with 357s.
Yes. But they're not comparable to a regular top strap.
Smith & Wesson puts a steel wear plate on their scandium frame models like the 329 and 360. I read even those plates wore through. I don't really shoot mine, they are for carry, not ammo burners. 360 is painful to shoot with 357s.
Thanks! That is where I saw it. On my 329PD and 357 PD!
Smith & Wesson puts a steel wear plate on their scandium frame models like the 329 and 360. I read even those plates wore through. I don't really shoot mine, they are for carry, not ammo burners. 360 is painful to shoot with 357s.
Thanks! That is where I saw it. On my 329PD and 357 PD!
And from what I have read, s&w will take care of you if it becomes a issue.
180's on 31.5 gr of WW296 cut my 629's.
Only goes so far.
No worries.
When forcing cone spits crap all over, rebarrel and keep shooting.
It gets bigger which forms a radius which reduces the pressure and it stops.
Some have a radius from the factory to spread the pressure
I’ve never seen a top strap that was flame cut bad enough to be a problem. Cutting usually stops without going too deep. 357 magnums are probably the worst offenders. But I wouldn’t worry about flame cutting.
My friends Dad was a Sheriffs deputy for many years and range master for them for a bunch. He had a Model 66 that I wouldn't have shot anymore it was flame cut so bad. Years and years and untold thousands of hot 125's out of it.
The greater the gap between the forcing cone and cylinder face, the better chance for flame cutting.
I own an early model Premier grade Freedom Arms .454 Casull, with well over 1000 rounds thru it, almost all being full-power loads with tough bullets. Absolutely no sign of flame cutting or forcing cone erosion.
If you buy quality firearms in the first place, the odds of such damage is decreased, IMO.
My M29 10 5/8 had over 6k rounds through it when I passed it to my son. As mentioned, it seems to stop once it reaches a certain point.
Speaking of flame cutting, on the Life Below Zero show, Andy from Eagle was showing his girl friend how to shoot a revolver to stop a charging bear. The way she was holding it would have hurt her hand, but she had pretty thick gloves on. If she shoots it during the summer the way he showed her how to, she's going to be hurting.