Was wondering if anyone has installed one and what you think about it.

I have read that some inletting to the stock is required....

Thanks...Bob

I installed a Yodave kit. Impressive trigger now. Easy to install. Nothing to do with the rifle, just to install it.

Rifle Basix is cheaper and no inletting.

I have one in my 452....love it.

I like mine.

It did take some Dremel work, not hard, not a problem.

DF

Yeah, I installed a Timney myself, it wasn't hard and improved the pull. But have also just lightly modified a 452 trigger myself and improved it considerably too.

I had adjusted the OEM trigger until it was pretty good. Went ahead with the Timney, anyway.

Point being, the OEM trigger can be tweaked fairly well, although the Timney is better.

DF

The OEM trigger on my 455(which I just sold) was ok, Had I kept it I would have replaced the triggerguard and the trigger at the same time.

There was another recent thread on this topic. I started with a Timney, and found that not only did I need to remove considerable wood, but the trigger housing extended so far down that the bottom metal wouldn't seat, so I had to trim the trigger housing as well.

I ditched the Timney in favor of a Rifle Basix. The Timney is for sale, cheap.

Paul

How come those "cheap" deals are never around when I'm in the market...

IIRC, there was some cutting and fitting necessary, but not enough that I can recall.

Had it been a real circus, I would remember the sordid details...

DF

I thought the OEM trigger was awesome......compared to my 10-22.

I rebuilt my 10-22 trigger (older one when the fire control unit was made of metal) using Clark and Volquartsen parts, even installed a Brownell's trigger stop. It's not as good as the tweaked OEM CZ trigger, but pretty good.

I have a Jard fire control unit, an older one, on another 10-22. My cobbled together unit is better than the Jard.

And the Jard isn't bad.

DF

Addendum on the 10-22 Jard.

I took it apart and adjusted sear engagement for a great 2# pull. Because with the Jard, trigger and sear are one solid piece, you can't have the hammer down, safety on and cycle the bolt. The safety has to be off to cycle the bolt; the trigger has to move for the sear to engage the hammer, can't be blocked by the safety, unlike the Ruger OEM set up.

That's OK, just have to understand why. Cock the hammer, put the gun on safe, insert mag, cycle tha action and you're in business.

I'm more impressed with the Jard now that I've spent some time working with it. It's super simple. You can adjust sear engagement and disconector engagement.

Mine is an older one, had it for several years, just never took the time to adjust it.

Now, I think it will give my hand built Ruger unit a run for the roses...

DF

I have one in my 452 Silhouette, very nice overall a bit better than the Yo-Dave to me. It was installed when I got the rifle, but the man I bought it from said it was not easy to fit. The sear was high and required some work. As it has all been done I am happy with it.

I had to take some material off the top of the Timney sear to keep it from binding the bolt. Not that hard to do.

DF

Thanks for all the replies..... Mine should be here in a few days...

Bob