I have a Honda Pioneer 500 which weighs about 1,000 pounds , will ratchet straps rated for 1000 pounds and a breaking strength of 3000 pounds be ok for trailering on a 6.4 x12 trailer?
The kind of ratchet straps that can be bought at tractor supply,Oreillys etc.

Back it on or pull it on ?

The trailer had half moon rings welded at floor level on the outside of the trailer frame.

Just hook a j hook on the lower frame of the pioneer
And a J hook on one of the half moon attachment on the frame of the trailer on all 4 corners ?

X them ?

Thanks

Ta heck with the straps. On my Honda 700 and even on my quads I use a Louisiana trailer dog. Load it up and attach it to the ball and you are good to go in five minutes

I use 2" wide straps that I use to strap my hay down when hauling it. About $25 at TSC or Big R. Then I can use them for anything.Easier on the hands and a darn sight easier to work the ratchets than those little 1" wide things.

Better yet, bolt an E-Strip on each side of the trailer floor and buy some ratchets straps with clips that are use for them. You get more variations on where to tie down to.

While it weighs 1000, the tension on the straps won't be holding nearly that much. Don't get the cheapest ones in the store or you'll be forever fighting the ratchets.

As for whether it's best to drive on forward or backwards, it depends on the length of the trailer. You need the center of gravity to be forward of the center of the axle. If your axle is centered under the bed and the bed isn't much longer than the UTV, you'll likely need to back it on to get the weight forward. Then there's loading it into a pickup. I have a Polaris RZR 800 that fits nicely in my long bed Dodge 2500. It would be best to back it in but I'm not about to try backing it up the ramps. If I don't hit it just right and get it off to one side, it's hard to get around the wheel wells to get it out.

I'm using 2" straps to hold my 4 seat RZR. They hold the machine in place without trouble. I will be going to the over the tire straps when I finally remember to order them. I have refined a bit where I hook up, but they're hooked two to the skid plate holes up front, and two to the tow hoop in the back. I am going to start backing the RZR onto the trailer so the gas fills are both on the same side. I'm learning the hard way. The machine weighs just shy of 1700 lbs.

What, none of you guys know how to tie a "Trucker's hitch"?.
How about chalking the tires too?

I got lucky and bought a Pro Locker before they went under.

Ratchet straps work goof though.

Lots of guys winch the front and put a strap or chain over the trailer hitch.

JMHO- if I had to pay what one of those
heavy blankety blankers costs, it'd have
at least one good chain on it in addition to
whatever straps.

Every year at November I see those on
the interstate wobbling and rolling back and
forth on the trailers where some poor dude
paid thousands for his go cart and buys
the cheapest wally world tie downs to
secure his investment to his trailer with
the dry bearings
No doubt I'll see more in a few weeks, and
at least one trailer of some sort with the
hub burned up and/or the tire and wheel
hanging by a thread or off on the ground

It’s not what will hold it down on a smooth road with the cruise control set, it’s what will hold it in place on a rough road during a panic stop when the straps are 10 years old. It doesn’t cost much more to get big straps.

If the road's that bad I'll be driving it, not towing it.

I got tired of the straps coming out of the pockets because of the suspension travel and went to a chain. I've got a utility trailer with side rails. I pull my Mule as far forward as it will go and run a heavy 12-foot chain through the bumper and front of the frame and then around the supports of the front rail of the trailer, pull the chain as tight as I can and hook it on each side. Lastly, I Gorilla tape the hooks so they won't come out. It will move around a little (maybe a couple of inches), but isn't coming unhooked or getting loose from the trailer like that.

Don't you use binders on your chain?

I don't

These worked better for me than just straps. No more having to stop and retighten straps after rough spots in the road. They hold your wheels down and let your UTV bounce on its suspension going down the road,

ERICKSON ATV Wheel Chock and Tie-Down Strap Kit

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Erickson-W...70114247ede71e359a497cc&gclsrc=3p.ds

Here is a Pic of the trailer I just bought and will be using to haul the Pioneer 500.
3,500 Pound axle ,Wrap around Tongue, Radial tires ,Led lights ,Set Back Trailer Jack, Welded Tie down connections on the outside of trailer at deck level and one right behind the Trailer Jack

I am going to have to install some type of assist to help with raising and Lowering the Gate as I barely have enough strength to raise and lower the gate as I have a lot of back and neck problems.

Using conventional Ratchet straps where would be a good place to Hook to the Pioneer 500 and then I suppose use the welded connections on the sides and right behind the trailer Jack to hook to the Trailer?

Check out Mac’s tie downs. I use the tire basket straps to hold the wheels in place. It let’s the suspension flex so there’s no up and down stress on the straps.

If I’m not going far, I just hook my winch line to the trailer tongue and cinch it a tad, as my front tires hit the trailer’s front rail with no metal/metal contact. If going on a highway trip, I add a big car-hauler ratchet at the rear hitch of the machine as well.

If your ratchet straps are listed for 1k lbs each you are more than good, i've got some that are rated for 800 lbs each and use them to strap down my Rhino and Argo, never had one come loose or break. Make sure to keep the ratchets lubed, I use PB Blaster to keep them free of rust and grime and clean them about once every 4-5 trips.

I believe I am going to get a couple of Garage door extended springs and some eye bolts and solve that problem of having to strain to let the gate down and pick that heavy sob up.

Drill a Hole in top of frame and a Hole about 2 or 3 inches from The top of the Loading gate ,bolt the eye Bolts to the frame and loading gate.Then attach the springs

These worked great on my last trailer.

https://gorilla-lift.com/

Yes I bet it works well but I figure I can do the DIY
Version for less than 65 bucks or so.

When you strap, consider an accident or a strap coming undone.

If you X or your straps are off to the side, a broken or unhooked strap will leave the remaining strap pulling the thing off the side. Look at some pictures in this thread. Now picture a strap failure going down the road.

The opposite side strap will work to pull the atv sideways.

Seems like a good idea from a normal holding it in place standpoint.
Until something goes wrong.

I have trailered a Pioneer 500 about 6,000 miles since 2018.
I use the chocks and straps from Cabela's, on a 5.5 ft x 10 ft trailer
Just like the Erickson except shorter straps.
The lift assist is a Rac-Em double barrel.
Only one side needed and has a bike chain instead of cable.

I got a package of 2 -160 pound Garage door extension extension springs
4 of the 3/8 zinc plated 3/8 Quick links
4 of the 3/8 zinc coated Eye Bolts 4 inches long which I am going to cut shorter
1 package of 8 of the 3/8 zinc coated flat washers

Paid $46.75 which included our 7% tax

I believe I am going to just put both springs on one side so will Just be drilling one hole in the frame and one in the loading gate and installing just 2 out of the 4 eye bolts that I have.

I figure the the problem of the heavy loading gate hurting my neck and back lifting it are by and large going to stop with this relatively inexpensive lift assist.

I use 4 Shock Straps to tie my Polaris General down. They keep tension on the strap, even if they loosen up a bit. I also bolted wheel chocks to the front of my trailer, and drive the General on until she stops at the chocks. Very secure way to transport the machine, IMO.

+1.

Doesn't take much to lose a strap if you are compressing springs and driving on bumpy roads, and we don't have much choice on the second part.

A solid axle is so much easier to tie down than fulllly independent suspension.

My Polaris RZR fits in the back of my long bed pickup. I have to use straps to keep it centered or it will bounce to one side on rough roads. Then it can be a real bugger to unload because of the wheelwells. When that happens, I have to jack up the back to lift the wheels and push it back to the center. It's a PIA.

Rc, when in doubt, throttle out!

For about $15, you can get 50' of 3/16" dyneema ATV winch rope. It has a breaking strength of well over 5k. With a proper truckers hitch, you can tie down a UTV much tighter than any of the ratchet straps mentioned on here.