I have two rifles I want cut down and threaded for a YMH R9. Any experience with Threading Central or Ecco Machine? I've seen a little about ECCO not much on Threading Central. Anyone use either of these shops for threading? Experiences?

One would be a T3 which there is a lot of disagreement about as to the proper way to go. Also would a 19 inch barrel (6.5 Creed) be a good compromise for length vs velocity. With suppressor it would be 24 inches total so pretty handy still. Thanks

I'd find someone local if you can. Most smiths with a lathe can thread a barrel pretty quickly.

What disagreement for a T3?

Don't sweat going 1/2-28.


A 19"Creed sounds excellent.


Let us know what you find out...

"don't sweat going 1/2-28"

Whew! pretty thin walls. Considering the pitch diameter of the thread & the .264 bore, that leaves a .105-.110" wall thickness on the muzzle.

No worries. We've discussed this plenty of times here and even 308 is aok at 1/2-28. My Kimber Montana 6.5 Creedmoor is 7/16-28.

1/2x28 is fine even for most 30 cal magnums. I like 9/16x24 but it's unnecessary on a 6.5 bore diameter.

19" creed sounds good. I run a 20" with a 5" can and on average it lost about 100-125 fps with factory loads cutting it back from 24"

I've used ADCO a million times. Would just use them again.

Wall thickness is a bigger deal than many realize. Just because you can't see the muzzle belling-out doesn't mean that it isn't. This is a really tangible explanation of why wall thickness is important when threading:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUm_YXzJJOU

LRI has a chart on their site that provides their minimum contours for given threat patterns:

https://www.longriflesinc.com/produ...44c177&_ss=r&variant=11313326913

I had LRI recently thread a barrel for me: the turnaround was fast and the work was excellent.

Most people don’t know that if a barrel bells out at the muzzle the accuracy goes to pot fast..
I wouldn’t recommend doing a 1/2 thread on anything bigger than a 223,

the problem of course is most factory barrels today are .63-.67 “ at the muzzle, and are button rifled which bells more than a cut rifled barrel (they don’t expand)
so if you have to have a “shoulder” on the barrel for the break you have to cut that down which leaves you odd territory fast.

Blah blah blah....

Yeah, sorry to bring facts into the mix.

I have no idea what the OP’s Tikka barrel OD is at 19”, it’s probably fine but it is worth measuring. He also doesn’t mention any specifics on the second rifle. He’s asking for guidance, LRI’s information is spot-on.

Personally, I feel like Kimber’s decision to thread their light contour barrels was a mistake. I had a Montana in .308 that was threaded and shot incredibly well. The question is whether it will hold up in the long term.

As a previous poster mentioned, cut rifle/button-rifled does matter as well according to some really smart people who spend all day worrying about this kind of stuff.

Facts, and a chart.

As previously discussed here, folks have tens of thousands of rounds down range with 308s threaded 1/2-28. No problema. Will take their word for it, for absolutely damned certain.

Rule of thumb vs what actually works in practice +P. It's all good.

I've had Ecco Machine chop and thread 3 rifles, Nick does great work and any more jobs I have will go straight back to him.

I had my Kimber Montana in 6.5 CM threaded 1/2x28. I have about 800 rds on it since then, no problems and it shoots great. Also keep in mind that a 1/2x28 thread on a .264 bore has a minor diameter to groove thickness of ~0.096", a 9/16x24 thread on a .308 bore has a very similar minor diameter to grove thickness of 0.102". For a hunting rifle, 9/16x24 is not a real problem on .308 bore, and neither is 1/2x28 on a .264 bore. When I talked to TBAC about this, their concern with smaller threads on rifle bores wasn't even about muzzle belling, it was about people falling and smacking the can on the end of the rifle hard enough to crack the barrel at the thread root.

My Kimber was cut to 20" and threaded, if I was doing it again, I'd probably go with 18".

Thanks for all the replies. I kind of got lost in the holiday weekend. GTscotty, you posted a lot of good info on other threads; glad you replied.

The Tikka is .650 at 19 inches.

The second rifle is CVA Cascade in 350 Legend. It is already threaded 5/8-24 at 22 inches but I want it cut back to 18 Inches

Ideally, I'd like to have both threaded 5/8-24 and just use a simple direct thread on the can to swap between the two rifles.

Per a message exchange on another board with Nick from Ecco Machine a few years ago, the minimum barrel diameters with a threaded step collar providing the shoulder for each thread size are: .510" for 1/2-28, .573" for 9/16-24 and .635" for 5/8-24. If that's still his rule of thumb, a 5/8x24 thread should work for your Tikka with a threaded collar setup.

Thank you.

Is 24 inch a good barrel length with the suppressor installed? I had one 26 inch 223 for target shooting and hated it. Chopped it back to 22 inches and it was much better. I realize there has to be some compromise in order to have a suppressed hunting rifle.

A 308/6.5. barrel with a 1/2-28 threaded muzzle will show accuracy degradation over time, that’s a known fact. It’s called throat erosion.

I put a 1/2 28 thread on my 300 WM in 1998. That rifle gets 60-80(or so) rounds fired through it each year. Still as accurate as day one.

LOL