I haven’t done any shooting in about five years and my guns are just collecting dust. I used to have a cheap gun rest but my grandson has it in Michigan and I want to purchase a new one for here in Alabama. Any thoughts??? Thanks

I use a lead sled without any weight. I have long arms, so the extra length doesn’t bother me.

get you a caldwell "rock" front rest and a rear bag from same manufacturer and your set. i'm personally not a fan of lead sleds. i just put some protektor leather bags in my caldwell rests recently only cause i liked the leather look. you can get alot more expensive a set up on front/rear rests but the caldwell is solid.
Big Ed

A number of stocks have been broken using a lead sled. I don't care for them and prefer to shoot more like I will when hunting. They have a new one that you fill with water, this might work well if you keep it light so it is not almost stationary.

I like the Caldwell Rock as an inexpensive but very usable rest and with a leather "rabbit ear" bag for the butt stock. If I am going to shoot something with 300 magnum or harder recoil for an extended session I will wear a shirt with a kick killer pad on it. Or a strap over sorbathane pad like the PAST.

Get a good pedestal rest like a Hart or a Sinclair and leather Protektor front bag and a leather Protektor rear bunny bag. I've used this combination for many years with complete satisfaction. The Hart pedestal is heavy and won't move on the bench. I've looked at a Lead Sled and it looks like a poor substitute for a good rest setup.

My dad got a sled due to an eye issue.
Hes older now and doesnt shoot rifles.
Asked me if I want the sled.

Hell no.

One more POS to drag around. No thanks.

Think they are OK for those that need em.
I like reg bags just fine ( or bipod and bag ).
No retina issues so far.

Neck is fugged but can still take a boomer.

I load for calibers .17 through .45. and develop loads over a chronograph, using different bullets, powders and load densities. Some of the larger chamberings for which I have loaded include 45-70, 375 H&H, 376 Steyr, 9.3 x 74R, 9.3 x 62, 35 Whelen, 338 Lapua, 338 RUM. 338 Win Mag, 338-06AI, 300 Rum, 300 Weatherby.......

Anywho perhaps you get the point in that the above tend to have a bit of recoil.



Ruger #1, 375 H&H

I use a lead sled II with 40 lbs of weight exclusively. Never had a problem with a stock on any rifle I've employed, and that is a bunch. I usually put a piece of foam pipe insulation under and behind the recoil pad to help absorb recoil.

So just fer schitz' n' giggles, say you take three or four boomers to the range to do load development. Say you load five rounds of three different powders and three different densities. If my math is right, that is 45 rounds per chambering. Now if you only shoot 45 rounds for one 338 RUM or a 375 H&H off of the sled you still can feel it. Imagine what you'll feel if you are bent forward over a rear bag and front rest with nothing between you and the buttstock but a recoil pad at best.

One of my favorite things is to watch a guy that has shot a dozen or so rounds from a big boomer over bags with you reloading and then handing it to him to shoot. Hand it to him with an empty chamber and watch what happens. Almost always he is flinching or jerking the trigger.

I have found that using a lead sled sure helps remedy that problem.

JMHO

&

YMMV


ya!

GWB

While back tractor supply had a big clearance gong on.

Had one Caldwell xterminator ( maybe?) big X shaped bag on the shelf $12 bucks.

Works great for that price. Normally it’s $50-60.

Rear bags i use crown royal sacks filled with Walmart’s clearance plastic craft beads. A pound for $1 or so.

Rock with Protecktor leather cradle and leather rear bag. Solid quality leather rear bag will do you favors.

Good suggestions on the front rests, good protektor front bag and good leather rear bag. I'd chitcan the lead sled idea though. Also, if I were in the market for a front rest, I'd hit up ebay or local pawn/gun shop and see if I could find an older well made one. The old Hoppes aluminum front rests are great and they are reasonably lightweight, durable and steady. Ive bought a few of them in the $25.00 price range. Going back to the front rest bag, if you choose the protektor, go with 1 that is going to cradle your stock the best. The #1 is great for most hunting rifles made these days. Im talking lighter weight hunting rifles like tikkas, montana's winchester featherweights, etc. The #2 is great for a slightly wider stock and the #3 for full on benchrest or flat and wide varmint stock. I also prefer a sand filled leather rear bag.

Bag width is an important point that I failed to mention. I use the approximately (liberal) 1.5" wide Protektor bag for everything I have. It will also easily accommodate a forearm width slightly greater than that on a common hunting rifle. I bought a wider bag (don't remember which one) years ago and it gathers dust; absolutely worthless for a steady hold unless you have a very wide forearm stock.

I use something similar to lead sled but without the additional weight. It’s great for testing loads, but poi must be checked holding like you will shoot when hunting. Heavy recoiling rounds will shoot higher 1-2” higher when held lightly. Also Remington pumps will not shot accurately because of where the rests contacts the forearm. Useful tools....but you have to know their limitations.

It depends what you want it for. If you just want to check zero, so as to go hunting, then even an improvised rest will do - a daypack with a rolled-up jacket or blanket in it, for example. In fact IMHO you're actually better off with something like this for zeroing, holding the rifle as you would in the field for a longer shot, as the POI shooting from a benchrest is quite apt not to be the same, especially if you sit the rifle directly on the rest and let it recoil freely, and perhaps even more so by a Lead Sled.

You might also benefit from a bit of practice without the rest, using different shooting positions, as five years without shooting will almost certainly have taken the edge off. There may even be competitions available to you to sharpen up. Here in Oz for example we have service rifle and field rifle competitions, which use different positions and timed exposures and so on, which are a good way to become and stay sharp if you aren't getting enough shooting in the field.

If you want to check different loads for accuracy, then a front rest such as the Caldwell, with a rabbit ear rear bag, would be my choice. I am not a fan of the Lead Sled, as I think it is very hard on rifles from what I've seen. Rifles are designed such that the recoil is taken by the shooter, moving with the rifle, not for the recoil to be stopped by a more or less immovable rest. If the recoil is an issue you could use a bag of lead shot, about the size of a housebrick, between you and the rifle - the effect is to dampen and spread the recoil, without overstressing the stock. You could buy these at one time, and they may still be around, or you could improvise one easily enough.

Finally, if you want to compete in benchrest, then have a look at the rules and at what the competitors are using.

Being in the rest top business I have several brands of bases. My favorite and is reasonable is the Bald Eagle from Grizzly Machine. I much prefer the Protecktor bags.

I use a Sinclair rest with Protektor, and Protektor bunny ears behind.

I used to think that rifle breakage from lead sled usage was just internet folklore until I witnessed a fella's rifle stock crack through the wrist one day at the range when using one. Admittedly it was a wisp of a thing and a .30-06 to boot, and I couldn't help but think that the grain flow through the wrist was wrong, but he assured me he had used the gun hard for many years without a hint of trouble until that day when he set it up in that brand new lead sled.

I have a Lead Sled I got back in 2009 when I got my .375 Wby. I sued it once, but quickly realized that there are better, easier solutions to tame recoil at the bench. It's been sitting in my garage for about 12 years.

As I mentioned in my original post on this topic, YMMV. The OP’s thread topic addressed the lead sled. I’d have a hard time quantifying the number of rifles with which I’ve employed my lead sled to zero scopes and develop loads with the ultimate purpose of killing critters from near to far.

I think I have something like XX rifles at present, and can’t remember how many others have followed someone else home since I began employing said Lead Sled.

A few……






















IIRC I started employing a lead sled circa 2006. I've yet to have a problem with a rifle-stock.


BTW,



The lead sled also makes an excellent "cleaning cradle"

As to point of impact shifting, I rarely shoot past 200 yds, but have yet to notice an occurrence of that.



ear-holed @+/- 175 paces, 30-06, 180 Gr, Cor-lokts, zero'd off the bench with my lead sled.

Of course I've heard it said that is is better to be lucky than good!

ya!

GWB

I'm with geedubya as far as the Lead Sled goes, on both counts, zeroing rifles/slugguns and as a cleaning mechanism. Been using mine for both purposes also since around 2006.

However, I don't use any weight on the sled. The sled weighs 17 pounds. I use it on a smooth surface table when sighting in so in essence I am adding 17 pounds to the weight of any gun I sight in as it recoils into my shoulder at the back of the sled. My son and I can shoot 12 gauge slugs all day long in a t-shirt and the recoil is negligible.

I'm sure I haven't sighted in as many guns on mine as GWB has, but we've put quite a few rounds through rifles up to .300 Winchester magnum and a lot of 12 gauge slugguns and have never had any kind of issue with a stock cracking or breaking.

I like the Caldwell Full Length rest. Very flexible and effective.

Very appreciative of all the responses. For clarification of my desired use it will be for simply recreational shooting of center fire rifles from 223 Remington up to 300 win Mag. That includes 243 Win, 270 Win, 7mm Rem Mag, 30-06, and 7mmWSM.
I have given up hunting but enjoy reloading and just want to tinker at the reloading bench and range. To be honest I haven’t shot my CF rifles in so long I don’t know what to expect on my recoil tolerance so I guess that lead me to a lead sled. Right now all I have would be a rolled up sweatshirt. 😊

when i use the sled i use no weight but i prefer shooting bags the front rest on sled is too sloppy

Well I decided on the Lead Sled. I put it together and bore sighted a couple rifles that are wearing new scopes but not taken to the range yet. Worked great for bore sighting and when the weather cools some I’ll try it at the range. Thanks for all the input gentleman.

I have a sled. I have used it with 2 bags of shot, 1 bag of shot and no weight. Never cracked a stock or broken a scope. It may be hard on equipment. I understand the argument.

I agree. Anything like this set up is going to be far better than a lead sled. That, or shoot off a pack like you probably would in the field if a long shot presented itself... JMHO..

the Lead Sled and sim, create more problems and solve none

don't do it

Guy on the bench next to me was shooting a 300 Weatherby off a lead sled and had the wrist snap on his '70's era Weatherby Mark V. He knew of no issue with the stock prior to this.

I have one, I don't use it. It was a gift to me. I have used it a few times when it was new, I hear stories about hurting rifles and such so I stopped using it. If you have one and like it, have at it.
Take care.

I have used a lead sled. I didn't have any issues. Worked great for me. My go to set up is a caldwell rock front rest and a caldwell rear bags.
I recently bought a caldwell deadshot front bag. I bought the front bag as I thought maybe that would be easier to lug around than the rock solid rest. Haven't used the front bag yet but suspect it with work pretty good.

How many of you would put the butt of your rifle against a tree and shoot it? Same thing apples to a lead sled. If the stock is forced to absorb all of the energy of recoil bad things happen

This.

To me, the lead sled is a solution in search of a problem. Has intuitive appeal to shooters who do not fully understand the dynamic forces in play when a rifle is fired.

Opinions vary!


From last Wednesday IIRC



Setting Zero @ 100 yds with SuperHogster Thermal on 6.5 Grendel



Checking out the regulation on a Merkel 141 in 30-06 Springfield.





Getting ready to check out my first Low Wall, I had 15 minutes before end of shooting light.



yup!



think it's gonna work.

I'd say conservatively I have shot in excess of 50 different rifles from 17 Cal to 45 Cal over the lead sled while developing loads, and have yet to have damage to a rifle.

Perhaps its because i place a piece of foam insulation between the butt of the rifle and the back of the sled. Quien Sabe

as always, YMMV

ya!

GWB


PS: I recently acquired two rifles in 475 Turnbull. Will be doing load development soon. Will check back with results.

geedubya - Thanks for the extensively illustrate responses. Are you saying that reports of people breaking stocks due to a Lead Sled are inaccurate?

I've seen more than one stock cracked at the wrist via Lead Sled at my range.

Aboslutley not!

That is not my style.

If you notice, I both prefaced and ended my last post with the caveat's "opinions vary" and "Your Mileage May Vary" (YMMV).

I've always been an iconoclast. (Sacred cows make the best hamburger), but try not to be an azz'hat in the process.


What I have consistently tried to do during the course of this thread is provide empirical evidence of extensive use of a lead sled, which when employed, has not harmed any of the multitude of rifles for which I have developed loads.

I won't bore you with pix but I have done load development and or shot the following off of a sled.

458 Lott, 458 Winchester, 450 Marlin, 45-70 (4), 375 H&H (4) 376 Steyr, 9.3 x 74R, 9.3 x 62(3), 350 Rem Mag, 35 Whelen(2), 358 Winchester(2), 338 Lapua, 338-378 KT, 338 Ultra Mag, 338 Win Mag, 338-06AI, 338-06(2), 338 Federal(2), 325 WSM(3), ,303 Savage, 300 Ultra Mag(2), 300 Weatherby Mag, 300 Win Mag(3), 300 WSM(3) 300 H&H(2), 30-06(6) , 308 Win, 7 STW, 280AI...........

One more example.

Here is a push-feed Winchester Model 70, chambered for the 270 Winchester. I bought in the early 90's.



It has a custom Shilen Barrel, and a sweet trigger. I got it after some wrangling for $350 IIRC.

The reason I got it that cheap was that it had a hair-line crack in the wrist.



BTW, It shoots better than I can........



After load development on lead sled, first shot out of a cold barrel followed by a second shot, before taking it to hunt.

BTW, it remains intact (the picture of the crack in the wrist of the stock was taken about 10 minutes ago).

Anywho, perhaps you get my drift.

BTW,

I mentioned a 475 Turnbull earlier.......





I've loaded up +/- 35 rounds, 20 being jacketed bullets and 15 being cast lead, in six different combos that I'm going to shoot over a chrono to attempt to develop a load that combines the best accuracy/velocity quotient.



I'm willing to bet that if I shoot all 35 of those rounds, I'll be glad I did it using a lead sled.

Will get back with an "un-flinching" report when accomplished.

ya!

GWB

Good info GW, Thanks!

The sled is nice when you have a half dozen or more to sight in, can’t imagine not having one.

I think you are onto something there GWB.
After I read this post, I remembered that when I first got my sled around 2006, I padded both sides because of a sloppy fit of the stocks, but I also padded the bottom and back with the thought of reducing felt recoil.
I'd say it probably served a two fold purpose for me without realizing it, as I have never had a problem damaging a stock while shooting with it.
Garry

I’m gonna do that to mine

"To me, the lead sled is a solution in search of a problem. Has intuitive appeal to shooters who do not fully understand the dynamic forces in play when a rifle is fired"

*******************

I'm sure I qualify as a member of that group!

IIRC I only took one course in physics and that was in 1969.

However, there was a formula which in my current state of confusion may or may not apply.

Principles of energy and work
(From The Sciences, 6th ed., by Trefil and Hazen)

Introduction: Work

Scientists say that work is done whenever a force is exerted over a distance. Pick up this book and raise it a foot. Your muscles applied a force equal to the weight of the book over a distance of a foot. You did work.

This definition of work differs considerably from everyday usage. From a physicist’s point of view, if you accidentally drive into a tree and smash your fender, work has been done because a force deformed the car’s metal a measurable distance. On the other hand, a physicist would say that you haven’t done any work if you spend an hour in a futile effort to move a large boulder, no matter how tired you get. Even though you have exerted a considerable force, the distance over which you exerted it is negligible. Physicists provide an exact mathematical definition of their notion of work.

In words: Work is equal to the force that is exerted times the distance over which it is exerted.

In equation form: work (joules) = force (newtons) x distance (meters),


where a joule is the unit of work, as defined in the following paragraph.

In symbols: W = F x d

In practical terms, even a small force can do a lot of work if it is exerted over a long distance.......

http://www.auburn.edu/academic/classes/scmh/1010/Energy%20and%20Work.php

Sometimes in my old age it seems I no longer have the vocabulary/lexicon to expresss precisely the import of what I'm trying to say, so I just went to the end of the block to take a pix to help illustrate my point.



Seems the black/yellow striped sign acts like a target, as quite often this apparatus has to be repaired. However I do believe it would be preferable to hit the "target" rather than the bridge abutment.

well that's kinda the same thing with the sled.



layers can be added



and can work to protect sling stud/swivel as well as stabilize skinny fore-ends

ya!

GWB

Geedubya,

It isn't work as much as it is impulse/momentum. Those cushions behind the buttstock serve to slow the rise and reduce the peak amplitude of the force-time curve seen by the rifle stock during its collision with the lead sled.

m

I guess in my case, a prime example of dumb luck beating ability..........

ya!

GWB

Not dumb luck, just common sense. Cushions make impacts hurt less.

No wonder it works!

For me and the rifle.

Almost like win/win!



ya!

GWB

GW

Look here



See that? The sled BOWED the stock on that Merkel



Seriously now, these pix changed my mind & opinion of/for the lead sled.
I've heard all the horrow stories about the sled and decided I didn't want one.




NOW - THAT makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to ILLUSTRATE for us who can't see past the end of our nose.

Jerry

Glad this was brought up. I've had and sometimes used the lead sled since it first came out and after hearing the stories of broken stocks I've backed off of it more. I like the idea of putting padding in the butt rest and will be doing that, probably some carpet padding.