I thought I asked this before , but I can't find it.
Does anyone have any tips on painting synthetic stocks with rattle can paint? I have a Kimber Montana and others I'd like to try. Will it stick ok? And do you clear coat it?
I thought I asked this before , but I can't find it.
Does anyone have any tips on painting synthetic stocks with rattle can paint? I have a Kimber Montana and others I'd like to try. Will it stick ok? And do you clear coat it?
Lets see........
Take your garden variety Remington 700 Custom KS, 300 H&H
Take the barreled action out of the stock.
Next, lightly sand the stock with either a sanding block or wet/dry sand paper, say 80 to 120 grit. Coarse enough to notice.
In this case I got some Flat, Tan , Camo Krylon paint for the base coat and a can of Clear Acrylic spray for the sealer.
What's the old saying, plan your work and work your plan. A couple weeks before i ordered some Krylon webbing spray from Mr. Art Supplies,(as you will not find this at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) over the "innanet". I got Gold, Black and White. I used only the Gold an Black on this stock.
After roughing up the surface, spray two or three light coats of the Tan Camo spray, allowing sufficient time between coats to dry.
I wanted to see how the webbing spray applied, so i tried a bit on a sheet of white poster board
After a couple experiments I went to work.
IIRC, I sprayed the black on first.
Let it dry then applied the gold webbing spray.
Sometimes less is more.
After the webbing spray dried, I smoothed off the 'tits' with #0000 steel wool, and applied several light coats of clear acrylic spray.
I've had good luck applying krylon with torn up pieces of sea sponge then clear coating. You can get pretty good depth in the pattern and it creates some texture in the process. I just use blue painters tape when clear coating to keep the channel clean and hang from an unfolded wire coat hanger (makes it easy to hold and rotate in one hand while spraying clear coats).
What about painting laminate stocks? Anything special or just prime n go?
I’d probably sand a little bit just to give it some texture and then use a coat of primer base coat. Regular paint might not hold to well to a lacquer.
I thought I asked this before , but I can't find it.
Does anyone have any tips on painting synthetic stocks with rattle can paint? I have a Kimber Montana and others I'd like to try. Will it stick ok? And do you clear coat it?
Lets see........
Take your garden variety Remington 700 Custom KS, 300 H&H
Take the barreled action out of the stock.
Next, lightly sand the stock with either a sanding block or wet/dry sand paper, say 80 to 120 grit. Coarse enough to notice.
In this case I got some Flat, Tan , Camo Krylon paint for the base coat and a can of Clear Acrylic spray for the sealer.
What's the old saying, plan your work and work your plan. A couple weeks before i ordered some Krylon webbing spray from Mr. Art Supplies,(as you will not find this at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) over the "innanet". I got Gold, Black and White. I used only the Gold an Black on this stock.
After roughing up the surface, spray two or three light coats of the Tan Camo spray, allowing sufficient time between coats to dry.
I wanted to see how the webbing spray applied, so i tried a bit on a sheet of white poster board
After a couple experiments I went to work.
IIRC, I sprayed the black on first.
Let it dry then applied the gold webbing spray.
Sometimes less is more.
After the webbing spray dried, I smoothed off the 'tits' with #0000 steel wool, and applied several light coats of clear acrylic spray.
It has served me well over the years!
ya!
GWB
My only take-away from this whole post was that you shot a turkey with a .300 H&H! Damn!
i've done 2 870s and about to do another once it warms above 65 here.. i don't care much for looks, other than i want the thing camoed. i sand the stock (wood or plastic) with 80gr sandpaper and wipe the metal i'm going to paint with acetone 2 separate times. i spray everything with a primer coat, let dry for about an hour, then grab some leaves and start spraying a dab of od green, some flat brown, and some sand color. repeat as needed to cover any place you missed. after i'm satisfied with the camo i spray on a clear coat (flat). done. if any paint wears off i just wipe the area off and hit it with a single spray of some flat color used in the original paint job. i admire many of the first class paint jobs i see on the web but i don't have the patience.
I got bored and gave the rattle cans a try earlier this winter. Figured it would get my mind off a new rifle. Tikka t3 light’s black Tupperware got taped off, sanded, green base coat then some tiger stripes. I call it my poor mans nula lol. I sanded between coats and got a little to aggressive so the original stock shows through on high spots. Wife made me spray it in backyard so pick a calmer day then I did to get more even coating. Used matte clear coat, don’t know durability as I’ve not been out shooting it yet. Worse case it gets stripped and done again when I’m bored. Funny part is I bought a new Forbes anyway.
Go back to this baseline and KISS. Keep it simple stupid.
Take the lessons learned and do it waaaay better round 2.
Go with black matte base and matte dark green spanish moss web spray pattern. The green in this pic is olive. And wrap the webbing tight as fugg with coat thread again and not have the smudge areas in spots or at least not as pronounced as in the 1st try I did that is pictured. Then shoot it with matte clear coat.
Is primer necessary? And are 2 paint coats enough?
I tape everything I don’t want to paint off and wipe the stock down using acetone or denatured alcohol. Always wear latex gloves as oils from hands cause issues.
I use a primer as a base coat.
Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Brownells Aluma-Hyde works really well. Just not as many colors as Krylon.
I use Matte Clear Aluma-Hyde II as an overcoat with Krylon as colors so you get best of both worlds; color palate of Krylon & toughness of Aluma Hyde.
Pay close attention to instructions re: adding coats and take your time.
Is primer necessary? And are 2 paint coats enough?
I tape everything I don’t want to paint off and wipe the stock down using acetone or denatured alcohol. Always wear latex gloves as oils from hands cause issues.
I use a primer as a base coat.
Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
Brownells Aluma-Hyde works really well. Just not as many colors as Krylon.
I use Matte Clear Aluma-Hyde II as an overcoat with Krylon as colors so you get best of both worlds; color palate of Krylon & toughness of Aluma Hyde.
Pay close attention to instructions re: adding coats and take your time.
Alumhyde II matte clear Did you have any issues with it over krylon??? How long for the krylon to dry and cure before you hit it with the Aluma hyde II???
Careful with Aluma-Hyde "matte" clear I bought some and coated my painted stock and it was the most glossy clear coat I've ever used. Ruined my paint job. In the reviews it sounds like I'm not alone. Brownells offered to send another can, but my paint job was already ruined.
It's actually a nice brown but that was shot with an old phone. Built it back in the mid 80's and my dad thought all stocks were made of wood. Had to kind of sneak this one in or he might not have allowed me on the ranch.LOL.
Alumhyde II matte clear Did you have any issues with it over krylon??? How long for the krylon to dry and cure before you hit it with the Aluma hyde II???
This sounds like a really good approach.
I haven’t had issues with it over Krylon at all it actually bonds so well that if I chip the stock at all it removes all of the layers together.
I don’t remember how long exactly it is that I have to let the Krylon cure, but I follow whatever directions are on the side of the can.
I've painted a few with wrinkle paint, if that counts - I think the high temp stuff works best. I'd chuck the stock up in the lathe using a wooden dowel in the barrel channel and turn it at 28 rpm while spraying and drying to help prevent drips and sag , taping off anything I didn't want paint on, including most of the lathe. Acetone and gloves as mentioned above.
The hardest part is finding the webbing or "marbling" spray paint from krylon, if you want that look. I suggest just ordering it online unless you enjoy rubbing elbows with masked boomies at hobby lobby or Michael's.
Other than that is just prep, spray, dry.....simple [bleep]. Even reney can do it
My favorite I've done, and one of recent, Kimber Hunter foreend shortened/remolded, painted green, then granite speck applied then clear.
Man I really like that paint! Exactly what is it?
Rustoleum Hunter Green followed by Rustoleum Granite stone texture, practiced with the granite paint before spraying the stock. That's just a couple light swipes with the granite texture paint. Then a pile of clear coats.
The hardest part is finding the webbing or "marbling" spray paint from krylon, if you want that look. I suggest just ordering it online unless you enjoy rubbing elbows with masked boomies at hobby lobby or Michael's.
Other than that is just prep, spray, dry.....simple [bleep]. Even reney can do it
Hobby Lobby used to carry it, black silver gold and white There are other colors by Montana Cans if ordering online ( Think red and blue plus above mentioned )
The Rustoleum Multicolor Texture line makes for a pretty easy job, hides surface imperfections. Topped with a matte clear to smooth out the surface as desired.
Same Rustoleum Texture, just for texture, then another darker green and lots of clearcoat. Action is Duracoated. Our Troy, HH, made the coordinating sling. .
Two tone can work. Look around the landscape, at wildlife habitats, from dozens to hundreds of yards. You generally don't see little smudges of multiple colors a couple of inches in size. You see bigger pieces of color like open hand or head size. Just stocks are too small to get much on there and we look at them up close. Just ideas. These were years ago.
Camo? The older I get, the more I lose -er- "misplace" things. If I ever get a synthetic stock it's gonna be neon orange or magenta. I really like magenta....
I'm working on a concept for battery powered strobe for it - maybe operated off a signal from the iPhone, gps, or sat phone....A loon call would be nice too, tho that might be misleading for moose hunting.Should be fine in the high-up, high plains, or desert....
I have a Savage with a birch stock that I've been thinking about painting. I really like your rifle with the green camo with B&W webbing. If I paint it that is likely the look I'll try for.
The giraffe pattern someone had awhile back was pretty nice looking.
Someone gots skills... This is from an article A Lite Brigade. Craig Boddington's rifles. Closest I got was buying the colors of Duracoat for the top two.
I agree, thanks a nice looking stock Chris, I'm planning to take the same route with my .257 Bob Hunter. How did you prep the stock before painting? Also, that's a neat and clean looking sling - what is it?
I've really enjoyed seeing all these rifles. I came back to look because I have bought 4 synthetic stocked rifles in the past year. I want to paint a couple sometimes.
I have done a lot, now I get more than I really want, its easy and just as easy to fix mistakes, laminate, like someone said rough up a bit for adhesion, just make sure the surface (whatever) is clean.
On my Rem700 tupperware I went with the Krylon dip method, wanted more white in a random winter camo pattern, worked out great
is that just water in the cooler? How did you prep the stock?
Krylon spray paint on top of water in a cooler that stocks fit into , all I had at the time, (easy to build a box out of scrap lumber) , paint will mix to create unlimited camo patterns...... Wash stock with Dawn or Joy dish soap to degrease and rinse with hot water, (shower/tub) make sure stock is completely dry before dipping...........
My favorite I've done, and one of recent, Kimber Hunter foreend shortened/remolded, painted green, then granite speck applied then clear.
Man I really like that paint! Exactly what is it?
Rustoleum Hunter Green followed by Rustoleum Granite stone texture, practiced with the granite paint before spraying the stock. That's just a couple light swipes with the granite texture paint. Then a pile of clear coats.
I bought 4 more synthetic stocked deer rifles last year. I want one to have the above paint job.
If it turns out well, I'm sure 2 more will get the treatment with different base coat colors.
Trying to attach pics of an old Rem 700 DM tupperware stock and McMillan stock for same rifle that I did last year. Sorry, I am not enabled to use file sharing sites for security reasons.
I started by stiffening the tupperware stock with some busted Beman ICS 400 shaft pieces and JB Weld. I also foam-filled the buttstock to quiet that down.
It was might first paint job test case. I wanted some practice before I moved on to do the same with an old McMillan stock that I use for the rifle that originally came with the tupperware stock ...
After sanding, I used some reddish primer, camo spray paint in striping and sponged as well, black webbing and clear coat.
It fits in well with Texas mesquite, cactus and red dirt.
The dark (navy) stock in the first pic is the McMillan before prep with the 270win in the finished tupperware stock.
The second pic is the 270 in the McMillan stock after it was done.
For what it's worth, the tupperware and McMillan ended up at about the same weight and the forend flex was not much different, either.
Here's my Montana. Just didn't like the blue....simple sponge job with a couple colors of rattle can.
Here's my m700 450 Bushmaster I just finished building.
Couple colors of textured Rustoleum. Black sponge on top.
I do shoot a couple coats of clear over it. I found it'll last much better that way.
Nice job on your Montana!
Clearcoat is a for sure thing. It's the same stuff, just tougher without the pigments and should be slightly more chemical resistant. Plus smudged clear looks better than smudged color if something gets on it... That's the main weakness of rattle canned products.
An easy stepup would be air cure Cerakote clearcoat via an airbrush. The rabbit hole...
This basically has some little webbs and speckles for texture. Tikka T3X.
Similar strategy here. Montucky.
Fine texture (Duracoat's Durasand) followed by micro-webs of different complimentary colors. Mod 70 poly.
More aggressive with multiple layers of heavier webbing. Montucky. Pic does not do it justice....
Some heavy texture made with Devcon. Very difficult to predict in my experience, but, it worked as hoped. Mask, apply goop, let stand for a bit, put layer of tape over it, massage, let nearly set up, remove tape, cure, and paint....Rem 700 LVSF
How about this? It's a Rem 700 wood ADL with turds apparently... Not mine! Don't even go there!
Someone around here thought it was a nice synthetic, and they were wanting to sell it as such, IIRC.
Just got done painting one for my buddies son, they had bought him a combo savage axis package a few years back and finally got him a better scope. I installed the scope for them and convinced him it needed a paint job. Krylon and webbing spray with a couple coats of clear
Krylon marbelizing spray. Hobby Lobby has the gold, ace hardware did have the black on their site last I ordered some, shipped to store for like 6 bucks a can. I like to use a flat, matte, or satin clear of whatever brand I used to paint rifle with.
I took an old 10/22 stock and cut off an inch to fit my 10 year old boy. I sanded it down with 80 grit and good acetone wipe. Primered with self etching primer, and then hit it with some bed liner spray. Few years later I decided to used some Krylon green to go over that. After few days of drying I sprayed a coat of satin. Turned out much better than I though. https://imgur.com/a/1I7DwER
Still functional hide the flash paint job, was very effective. This rifle alone has taken more game than many have taken with all their rifles combined.
Note the rust patina on the bolt.
What is left of the paint on this side.
The barrel is stainless and chambered in 7x57. Awesome rifle.