I hunt in western WA state and it seems elk season is always monsoon season. My main rifle has a stock with the old Maxxguard "rubbery" coating that sure is nice in the cold rain. I have a 270 & 30-06 Forbes that seem very slick in comparison. A few years back I tried one of the "flexseal" type products on a Tupperware stock. It went on clear, but any wear turned it white and it looked bad so I peeled it off. Maybe black would do better? Anyone using anything they'd recommend?

Although I colored over it with some sponge work, Rust-Oleum Multicolor texture paint is some very "grippy" stuff. It also lasts for many seasons. I really like it.

If sponge camo isn't your cup of tea, here is the same Rust-Oleum base paint that I webbed over instead.

I’ve had several stocks cerakoted and it added grip to them.

I have tinkered with this product ^^^^^^ on one stock. Very grippy, without adding significant thickness / girth to the stock.

This is the Rustoleum multi colored textured without anything else. As said above, grippy without too much grip and holds up well.

I have a Boyds pepper laminate stock on my 22-250. It is super slick with my gloves in cold weather. I just added a couple wraps of black medical coban, it works really well, its cheap and temporary.

Excuse please, short 'time-out' re "grippy" gunstocks application! REQUESTING... any opinions as to how well/durable it would work on 7075 Aluminum alloy ski poles? I use either 135cm or 150cm length sets as "disabled", aka: compromised mobility-assists.

Below quality factory grip, I'd like to extend a grippy pole shaft surface for additional "handhold friendly" length. Sounds like this well known Rustoleum product might work well. I don't need super-grip, just not slick as now. The main paint issues would seem adhesion and durability.

Apologies for wandering beyond guns here, but seizing the moment for some expertise! Also to recommend such poles to hikers AND some disabled folks. One piece poles less 'convenient than adjustable type. But "where metal/carbon fiber meets the trail", one piece way stronger/more stable than the two or more piece units.

Thanks & Best!
John

I also hunt in western WA. Finn Aagaard's method of painting the stock then sprinkling a handful of fine sand into the paint before it dries worked for me on a couple of rifles.

I also have a grip decal made for an HK USP and I was thinking of cutting that up and trying it on an HS Precision stock that's kind of slippery, but I haven't done it yet.


Okie John

Skateboard tape or 3M non-slip tape should fix you right up.


Okie John

Marine tex is I think what a lot of custom stock makers use to put those grippy patterns on the grips and fore-ends. Mix it up, let it sit 10-20 minutes and apply it with a Popsicle stick or sponge. It will be very aggressive and you'll probably have to knock it down with sandpaper after it dries. It's permanent and you can adjust it to your own preference in terms of how grippy it is.

I use the same product, but then go over it with some color and clear coat. It is very strong when done right:

Here's a better pic that shows the texture and shows the true color. The other pic makes it look pink. Even Mrs Blacktailer doesn't like pink guns!

I paint stocks with Duracoat and they have a texture called Softsand. It comes as an additive so I control how much or little goes in the mix. Being an additive I can paint the cheek-weld area of the stock without it then the rest of the stock with it. Duracoat markets it as a rubberized material, but it's hard stuff. I've done several for duck and turkey hunters, one with enough it won't slide into a gun case. Most for big game hunters with enough to provide grip in fall/winter conditions with and without gloves. It wears well too, as a test I painted an insulated mug that I used almost daily and its held up for a couple years so far. It does smooth a bit with time but definitely helps. I've done some for members here, it'd be interesting to hear their opinions.

I have used the Rustoleum multi-color textured for a lot of years now with complete satisfaction. It comes in a great variety of colors, the texture can be compared to a fine grit sandpaper, I just spray it on and use it with no additional steps such as clear-coating etc, and it holds up amazingly well, if it does get a scratch or chip just hit the spot with another spray and it will blend right in.
The only caution I would add is that if you spray a stock with it use a towel on top of your sandbags because it is so "grippy" that it will affect groups by not letting the rifle slide freely.

drover

What color is that?

Rustoleum Satin Brown.. Its the closest I could get to Mcmillan's brown color..

Here's another I painted the same way. With rustoleum texture paint and satin brown with clear coat. Very strong combo:

Thank you

KG Boot Guard is a wipe on textured epoxy boot toe protector. It’s easy to apply and gives good grip without being crazy.

I’ve used it in the past on fiberglass stock without issue. Mask the area you want texture. Sand lightly with 80 grip, wipe with alcohol or acetone and apply coating. Pull the tape just before it hardens.

https://www.amazon.com/Kgs-Boot-Gua...boot+guard&qid=1632631184&sr=8-4

I have been following this as I actually have 2 guns (maybe just 1) I need to make a bit more grippy. Both are shotguns and are wood stocks. I don't believe they make synthetic stocks for either. The one I definitely need done is my Browning B-80 in 20 gauge. The optional one is a Browning Citrori Lightning in 20 gauge as well. I use both for skeet and dove hunting. Dove hunting in Texas starts in September when it is still 100 degrees. That means sweating. And I sweat. A lot. Like a sprinkler basically. Which makes the shotguns a lot more slippery than I am comfortable with.

What I am looking at doing is having a professional DuraCoat the stock and fore-end of the B-80 first and maybe add some texture to the grip area. Also looking to have the metal parts DuraCoated or Cerakoted as well. Has anyone here done DuraCoat on a wood stock? How were the results? Any issues or thoughts on it? Thanks!

I use marine tex. I paint it on with tongue depressor, with the area previously masked off. Once tacky i tap it with the tongue depressor until I make peaks. Let it cure, knock it down with a sanding block to your desired texture.

I use Marine-Tex and dab it on with a sponge. I’ve waited for the Marine-Tex to dry before painting and I’ve painted it while the Marine Tex is still tacky. I think I prefer painting it while the Marine-Tex is still “wet”. It seemed more durable as if the paint soaked into the Marine-Tex and then cured. 6 of 1 and a half dozen of the other. 😉

My bit belated "Thanks!" My walking staff question, clearly piggybacking. A lot of great suggestions, most original context. Few, my situation specific. All useful to me. I'm necessarily a KISS fan, reflecting lack of "handcraft skills". "A man has to know his limitations." ("Dirty Harry" wisdom!) Have a couple of old alloy ski poles as "destructable test beds". Long as I don't get myself permanently "adhering" to one! Emergency room embarrassment! Mandated psych evaluation following; moreso!

Again, Thanks!
John