What are your thoughts on the recoil lug and/or lack-there-of on the new Model 85? I saw a picture of the way Sako mates the 85 action in the "Hunter" to the wooden stock with the use of a steel bracket and wood screws. What sort of longevity does something like that have? It looks a bit FUBAR to me. What�s the method used in the synthetic stocked versions? I have read where a few of you went ahead and ordered McMillan stocks for the 85. What is the bedding plan? Does this �lack of a substantial recoil lug� rule out the option of having the Model 85 pillar bedded? I REALLY like the looks of the 85 and respect the opinions of experienced members who praise this new Sako, but I am simply having a hard time getting past the uncertainty of how I would go about securing a new 85 in an aftermarket stock or having the existing factory stock bedded to ensure the chance for better accuracy.

I don't like the new recoil lug system - looks cheap for a $1400.00 rifle!!

I have a Sako 75 w/ the older recoil lug - never had a problem. The 85's recoil lug scares me a little.

At first I thought the same thing. After playing with these rigs, IMO they are the best Sako platform that has been. I want one(grin).

The 85 has an INTEGRAL with the action recoil lug, the 75 doesn't.
The 85's have added a slot for after market use.

I can go on & on about how great these new rigs are. I wont, just checkout the pic's & review & come to your own conclusion. Mine is, I love-em.
Look carefully at the pic's, they tell a story.
http://gunsandhunting.com/Dethroned.html
Will post the link another way if possible. For some reason it's not working.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...&topic=0&Search=true#Post1854368


Here's a few pics of the 'lug'.
A couple of guys have ordered McMillan's for their 85's. maybe they will chime in....

So, ....does anyone feel that pillar bedding is possible? I can see where once the aftermarket stock was glass bedded, the glass bedding would fill the slot and almost make the front lip of the action its own recoil lug. I'm curious if some sort of study has found that the traditional recoil lugs, whether they're the Remington washer-type or Winchester/Dakota integral-type, are just not needed for the levels of recoil produced by most cartridges.

I might be missing something, but it almost seems as if Sako finds nothing practical about pillar bedding an action. (A rabid supposition, I know!)


Here is something of interest:

I think it would be beyond arrogant to imply that Bruce Thom, of BAT Machine, doesn't know rifle actions. He makes some of the best benchrest actions available. He has a newer action that he has labeled the "VR Repeater". He makes this action with a very similar lug system. Similar in that it is VERY subtle and a far cry from what we are accustomed to in the typical hunting rifle action. In the picture below, it almost looks like the action has a seperate piece attached, but it's an integral part of the action. You have to look closely to see it. Are things as we thought we knew them, concerning recoil management, changing before our eyes or are we seeing a cheapo way of just being different?

If I had the know how I'd like to bed mine right now. I've heard it ain't rocket science but can't stomach practicing on a $1300 rifle...

Yesterday.
I managed to hit 3089fps right off the bat w/180NP's(gutless .300WSM) via Chrony, removed screens and lost 120fps which made things alot more enjoyable.....

What kind of scope mounting system is that?

I did find a gentleman on AR that has a herd of Sako 85s and has recently dropped one in a McMillan Edge. Looks fantastic. He has them pillar and glass bedded, but I have not heard back from him on how. I'll get back on here when I do. Until then, here are a few pics of his 85 in an Edge! WOW! I bet the barreled action of the 85 Finnlight would be awesome in that stock!!!

That dude has more money that I do....grin

Looks like he went with the 75 style stock, I'd do the same...

I have the 'low' Optilocks....

Looks very nice. I'm sold! I'm going to start looking for a Finnlight.

Yeah, I think I'd want to go the 75 route too. Might as well tell Rick to put an Edge on order.

That combo sure will be sweet!

I have the McMillan Sako Hunter Edge stock on order for mine but I can't answer the bedding question...I am no expert, that will be up to the smith I use to do.

Pillar bedding, Aluminum V-Blocks, and Sako's steel insert are all just different ways of acheiving the same thing, Consistant incompressable bedding.
Yea the Sako system is a little different and will take a couple different steps while restocking but the end result is that it works quite well. The rifles shoot like a house-a-fire. On a heavy caliber M-85 I'd add a barrel lug and maybe also use a traditional lug in the slot but for the calibers Sako uses the 85 system on it works just fine.
As an aside Winchester M-70's in some of the heavy calibers used a somewhat similar type thing on the extra recoil lug. Check out a Safari 416 and you'll see what I mean. Mine isn't to hand at the moment to take pics of..............................DJ

I have a finnbear in 30-06, a finlight in 6.5x55, and a 75 ss in .338. After reading this post, I have to figure how to get a 85 in the mix.

OldCenterChurch,

That Sako 85, what mounts are those do you know, Talley? They look like low rings, mine are low 1" but look taller, perhaps that is a 30mm ring, 50mm obj?

That one with the mcmillan edge looks sweet. I now may get one, I love the traditional Sako stock configuration.

I wonder what a MCMillan Edge stock for an 85 sells for? From what I've seen MCMillan is mighty proud of their work...............547.

yikes, if that's how high the 'low' optiloks for the Sako are, I'm gonna change my order from 'mediums' ... I dont plan on runnin anything bigger than a 40mm

My 85 finnlight is at McMillan right now, should be back in 2.5 more months.

I'm getting a Sako hunter pattern painted black, but not an edge version because that would make the rifle weight UNDER 7lbs 8 oz... too light. Putting a normal McMillan on a 85 finnlight will set the rifle at around 7.75lbs.

My take off Finnlight stock has a alum. block epoxy'd into the recoil lug area. Kind of wierd but it works.

Spot

The Sako synthetic Model 85's only weigh between 6 3/16th's of a pound for the short action, and up to 7 pounds even for the 375H&H.

I doubt that a McMillan Edge stock would save much (if any) weight over that. Plus, McMillan doesn't recommend that stock for rifles that recoil harder than a .338.

Since Sako guarantees its Model 85's to shoot 5 shots into an inch at 100 meters, I don't think anyone will need to do any stock work to make it shoot any better either.

I will be buying a Sako 85 Synthetic myself, and I don't think I'll be spending the cost of an entire extra Tikka rifle, to put a different stock on it - but that's just my opinion.

My sentiments exactly, i am buying (ordered) a 9.3x66 and last week ordered another Sako 85 Finnlight in 3006 , I traded 2 Remm 700,s for it. These are close to a custom rifle as i,m willing to pay for.

Well, if you can avoid addiction, stick with it! The fiberglass Mickeys are addictive and I hear the Edge has crack-rock in it!! I want one on my Finnlight. I don't want it for the weight savings, but rather something I can replace my teddy bear with at bedtime! Rifles aint tools, they're toys!!

I agree with you Brian, If Sako guarantees 5 shots at MOA why change stocks? I've seen alot of guys on this site complain about the injection molded stocks but with this kind of guarantee why sweat it?.....I also agree with CenterChurch rifles are toys, You gotta love em..........547.

Extra lows work with all the Vx 1,11 up to 40mm. I dare say the Vx111 will gel also.

I do think Sako could of made the Optilock bases slightly better in the base design, as they do seem to be higher than whats needed. But saying that. They are a rock-solid quality product that will hold zero under the biggest Sako cal.
Also heard they can be taken off & on without much shift in POI, with is a huge plus IMO.



340

I swaped scopes last year between three of my sakos. I changed scope and rings together and to my suprise, the left and right was on and the up and down was only off a couple inches.

My only real gripes about the opti-locks is that they are a little heavy and a little too high. I had a Swaro PH 2.5-10x 56 ! in low 30mm rings on a M-75 338. The lows will handle most 50mm obj scopes no sweat.
I could probably use a half dozen or so of the extra-lows but haven't got around to change any of them yet. They are shooting too good to change anything on most of them.........................DJ

I'd have to agree they say the optilocks are good but I LOVE talley's ....

I wish I could put talley integrals on my sako.

Spot

I'm a Talley nut too. I really like the LWs, but no longer own a rifle that needs them. I have the premium screw-locks on My Ed Brown Savanna and just ordered the screw-locks for my Sako 85 Finnlight.

What's a screw in Lock?

Spot

I really like the Opti-loks on my 85...I had Talleys LW's on my other rifles and they left nasty ring marks. Can't saw I would go back to Talleys again

I have a set of X-lows on my 75 with a 3x10x40 Var.x3. They are 1 piece so the base is half the size of the lows. There is plenty of room for a larger scope. They do cost an arm and a leg and you don't gain much in height.

Talley's Screw Lock scope rings.

http://www.talleyrings.com/screw.php

OldCenterChurch - Does the Talley Screw Lock mount directly to the Sako Dovetails? Also, what is the weight of the rings & mounting height? I mounted a Swarovski PH 3x12-50 on a Sako 85 Finnlight last fall using stainless Conetrol Daptar bases & low rings. I ended up with 1/16" clearance between the objective & barrel compared with 1/8" clearance with high Leupold Ringmounts.

No, you have to get their bases as well. They didn't have stainless bases for the Sako 85, so I had to go with the black satin bases and rings. I don't know the weight or height. I just went with the lows. Talleys are just so rock solid, I went with them. I have no experience with OptiLocks, Warne, Burris, etc.. I did have some Conetrols once. Nice, but a pain in the butt!

I use Talley's on just about everything BUT my Sako's. The Talley bases don't have a recoil stop pin in them and just slide on and are held on mostly by friction. The bases have screws in the top that you can tighten to help keep them from sliding forward but these will mar the cross hatching on the top of the dovetails. The Talley low's are just about the same height as Optilock lows.
The Optilocks have a recoil stop pin in the rear base to keep them from moving forward and they are aslo held by a section that clamps from the side. The extra benifits of this is that you can take them of and put back on with little or no loss of Zero and they won't slide forward. By clamping the front base closer or further from the front you have some windage adjustment and can zero your scope close to it's optical center. Also as much as I like Talleys, their vertically split rings usually leave pinch marks on the top of the scope. If you never change scopes you'll never notice but you will the second you take the scope out of Talley rings. Optilocks have inserts that won't scratch your scope a bit. I also don't think that the Talleys are any lighter than the Optilocks. Another plus for the Optilocks is that they match the finish of Sako rifles perfectly, others don't.
Again I do think that there is a lot to like about Talleys and some that have tried both still prefer them even on Sako's. I'm of another opinion and much prefer the Optilocks on my Sako's for the above mentioned reasons..........................DJ

Oldcenterchurch,

How about some pictures?

Spot

Just ordered them on Friday (18th). Will post pics when they come in. DJ has me thinking I should get some Optilocks too. I'd like to try them. Kinda hard to find though.

I place talley integral rings above the rest but I don't trust the plane jane rings where you have a base & ring seperate as much as I do a one piece rig.

Spot

As a side note, I got a some solid 'how to' from Shane on bedding procedure and went ahead and gave it a try over the weekend. Popped the action out of the stock this morning and to my rookie eye all appeared fine.
I might go test it out tomorrow morning if it's too cold for work...grin

Sam most of the bedding junk really needs 5 days to cure.
Yeah you can shoot it before then but it's better to hold off.

BTW I just figured that out after reading the bedding directions for the second time (last time was 20+ years ago, and 4 bedding jobs earlier).

Spot

We ended up working so it'll have to wait(which sounds like a good thing).
Thanks for the heads up.

What wrong, Sam?
You don't like doing range days in 20 below weather??

Laughin'!
We've REALLY been spoiled this 'winter' Tim. I turned into a puzzy......

I spent about an hour moving snow with a skidsteer this morning and stopped twice too warm up my little fingers....Gettin' soft...grinnin'

Sam,
I don't blame you one bit, actually.
When I was living in Bozeman(Fall 92-Spring 95) I cannot remember it getting much below zero?

Today is the kind of day you stay inside and do 'load devlopment'-yeah thats it...

It seems like there is always that one pretty cold week in January this side of the divide. It's here!

Sako 85 Finnlight in .308 Win. arrived today! It's sick how smooth these actions are! Went ahead and bought the Optilocks too! They'll go head-to-head with the Talleys to see who gets to ride!

Sweet dude!
What's the official weight of that thing?
I've never monkeyed with the Talleys, but like the chunky Opti's just fine. The Extra Low one piece version would no doubt be the ultimate way to fly....

I'll have to find a way to weigh it. I didn't know the Optilocks came in extra low! Well, the lows will have to do for now. Leupold is sending me a VX-III 2.5-8x36 with a turret for elevation (The turret was just for fun!). I went ahead and ordered the Sako Classic in the Edge too. It looks like I'll have to send the barreled action in when it comes time. That should make a nice addition to what appears to be a very nicely fashioned action. Sako did make some nice improvements in the 85. Still kinda unsure about the whole absence of a conventional recoil lug.

I have the extra lows on mine with a Leupold FXIII 6x42 and it fit perfectly with the Butler Creek flip up covers on. Initially when I got mine the gun shop sent me a set of mediums...wow they are tall...they went back right away.

With a 36mm objective, it sounds like the extra lows is the route I should have taken. It's probably not too late for me to change my order.

Just to be clear, the extra lows will just be the rings, right? All the bases are the same, correct?

They are a one piece setup. Check out the Sako website(Optilocks)....

If you find a dealer please let me know. I'd like to switch out sometime...

Oh, I see! I don't think I have ever seen the one-piece "ring mounts". What I ordered is the original Optilock set-up. The "extra lows" seem to only come in the regular set-up.

Talleys for the 85 were delivered today. Put them on to see how they look. Easy on the eyes if you ask me. I do think it would have been easy to have a pin of some sort to fit in the little notch on the rear bridge. They're nice and low too.

DJ, respectfully, I'm not sure if the "friction basically keeps them in place" characterization is a good way to summarize the goings-on. Isn't that the whole concept of dovetails? At some point, doesn't it fail to be friction, but rather to a point that the bases can go no further? Sounds a little like semantics, I know. Isn't that about all that keeps the front Optilock base from shifting? Have Optilocks on the way too, so we'll see.

This does concern me though and just might be all it takes to choose the Optilocks over the Talleys. seems like Talley would make the screws softer to prevent the marring.

I like the old 75 Finnlight better than the new one. The thicker tang, receiver, and better lug being the reasons. I also prefer the old palm swell stock to the new one, although I have a McMillan on order. Seems Sako just tried to shave some weight to fit more into the true lightweight division.

The slot for the bigger lug has been retained for the fact that they'll end up using one on the larger chamberings. That right there should tell you something.

I can like the "CRF" feature, although it is not really true CRF in the Mauser/Winchester sense of the word. The newer mag system seems to be a good feature also, though I've not had a problem with the old one yet.

I'll be selling my factory stock(which has been painted OD green) when my McMillan comes in, if anyone is interested..........

OCC, I think those Talleys look great on that 85. I've got them on my 75:

2much, I agree with some of your observations about the 75 and 85. The recoil lug issue will be something I'll spend some time deciding how I can address it if at all. I just favor the overall appearance of the 85 and it still maintains the Sako quality. I had a stainless 75 in .308 right at the beginning of this journey into rifle looneyville. Sold it to explore more toys. Glad to be back with a Sako.

Delta, I lived in Clarksdale, MS. for a short spell. Didn't like it much and had to go to Southhaven/Olive Branch to feel like we were in civilization. How about the set-screws in your bases, are they marring your receiver?

Those Talleys look pretty sharp!
What scope OCC?

Leupold VX-III 2.5-8x36mm coming from the custom shop with an M1 turret for elevation. I was told I'd have it in 2-3 weeks.

That sounds like a very nice setup.
Post a pic of that sucker once it's set up...

Well, Clarksdale is kinda in the middle of nowhere, so I can appreciate what you're saying, though I think things in Northwest MS on the whole are on the upswing with all the casinos in Tunica.

As far as marring of the receiver is concerned, I don't have a clue because I haven't taken the bases off since I put them on. Personally, I don't really care whether they leave a mark or not since it'll always be covered by the scope base anyway.

those talleys look great. I got a free set of Optiloks thrown in with my 85 SS 338 federal, but I may switch to talleys if I dont like the Opti's

I own a pair of 75's. I went and looked at 85's a few times. I just can't see why anyone would buy a new 85 while you can still buy a new 75 right next to it on the shelf for $300-$400 less.

I'm not saying the 85 is a bad rifle. I'm sure it's a great rifle. I just don't see why when you can still get a 75 for less yo would buy an 85.

Maybe I missed something.

I traded off a 75 Greywolf on the S/S 85 because it was about a 1 lb. lighter.
Put a 75 Finnlight and an 85 Finnlight on the shelf next to each other and I'd probably get the 75 if they were both priced the SAME...
IMO the 75's stock feels better although the 85's does seem to handle recoil better. Can't lose either way.


FWIW, there's a used 85 Finnlight(.300WSM) down the road for $1249. Of course they'll deal but damn considering NIB are around $1350...

While we're at it, maybe someone can tell me why Beretta doesn't import the Hunter Stainless in either the Sako or the Tikka?

I'm not buying another till Beretta looses it's import right in the US and it goes to someone else....but those 2 would be interesting to me. I like a wood stock but also stainless.

The only downside to Sako is Beretta.
The way those wankers handled(drug their feet) the blow-ups a few years ago was flat wrong.

OCC, did you change your order to extra lows? You will wont too, as the power ring on the Leupold's just(I mean just!) clears the Optilock base with the Vx11 setup. I'm sure it will also work great with the Vx111.

What DJ says sounds pretty positive to me. And I'd stick with the Optilocks when I get into one after hearing his comments on both.
I regard DJ as the foremost expert on Sako's here, so what he says is gospel IMO. Great work DJ.

I also hate it when rings pinch. I had Warnes that did this to my Swarovski. Looked real ugly!

Enjoy your new Sako 85 Finnlight. Great rig & superb choice!


340

It would be hard to get rid of Beretta as a importer because they own sako.

Ya think?...........grin

Optilocks came in! Gotta say I like these too. I'm glad I did not tighten-down on the Talleys because they tried to leave a little marring on the receiver as they were. I'm not liking that at all! These Optilocks are solid as a rock! DJ, Sam, et al got it right! Optilocks are about the only way to fly.

Instructions state that the front base should be flush with the front of the ejection port opening. Seems like that defeats the dovetail principle (not allowing the base to shift under recoil due to the wedging effect). Anyone? Sam, I noticed that you did it like I did. Are we wrong? Just checked...If I let it stay pushed all the way forward, my custom ordered Leupold will be too short! FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS will allow it to work just fine!! LOL!

I think you have them about right. As that base cannot move forward due to the "limiter pin". Read on

"When re-mounting just push the unit back to dovetail rails of your Sako so that the limiter pin is pushed all the way to the slot on the receiver, tighten the levers and you are all set - in seconds! The scope is now zeroed as it was before the removal".


340

OCC, The rear bases' position is obvious, tight against the recoil pin. The forward base should be used to optically center your scope for windage.
The way you optically center your scope is to hold the objective against a mirror. You will see the reticle and it's "shadow", adjust your windage and elevation until the two are matched together and you have optically centered your scope.

OK, now mount the scope in the rings and snug up (but not tighten up too hard) the rear. With the gun LEVEL and mounted securely in a gun vise center the bore around a vertical line such as the edge of a door, wall, fencepost or whatever as long as it's easy to see and verticle. Look through the scope and slide the front ring back and forth until you center the crosshairs on your vertical line. Tighten up the rings and you've centered your rifles windage with the optical center of the scope and will have equal amounts of windage in each direction. It also should center the "Sweet Spot" of your scopes optics.

The side set screw on the forward Optilock base will keep the forward base secured from sliding forward. Also not having them Wedged too tight will allow you to loosen the side screws and take the scope off and on with little or no loss of zero.


A little word about tightening the ring screws on Optilocks. They are a little softer than some screws so take a little extra care when tightening them or you can strip the heads out. I like to use a Brownells bit (they are tapered and set well) and lightly tap the back of the screwdriver with a soft hammer to set the bit into the screwhead and set the threads properly.
I use locktite on the screw that holds the ring to the base but have never used Loctite on the ring screws. I've never had a scope slip in Optilocks tightened this way and that includes 375 H&H, 300 RUM, 300 Weatherby, and heavy Nightforce scopes on a 338 Lapua.

I hope the hints help.

I thought that the Talleys looked nice on your rifle. On mine they overhung the receiver like on the Stainless/Walnut rifle above and I didn't care for that. If mine had fit on the reciever like your's I might have left a set on but overall I just think the Optilocks offer more altogheter on Sako's than the Talley's do (And I'm one of the larger Talley dealers in my State!).................................................DJ

Proclaiming a product as �the best� requires either a hearty mix of confidence and fortitude, or the combination of a false sense of reality and sheer stupidity. In a January 17, 2000, pre-SHOT Show press release announcing the then-new (but later discontinued) Key Concept, a senior Sako executive showed his confidence when he said, �The Sako 75 is the best hunting rifle in the world.� Another company document proclaimed the 75 ��a true success story of the new millennium� and ��the best, most innovative bolt action hunting rifle.� The Sako 75 may have lived up to the claims at the time, but it has since been eclipsed by its refined sibling, the 85. If only the official and his company could have foreseen the future.


Changes to the 85�s receiver (bottom) seem
subtle until it is placed beside that of the 75. These include a taller left receiver wall, longer rear bridge, lengthened tang and cocking indicator and an improved bolt-release lever. The 85�s receiver retains the integral dovetail scope bases of the 75.


Called the �Total Control Latch,� the redesigned magazine containment system of the 85 (front) requires the magazine to be pushed upward while the release button is depressed, and was created to prevent accidental magazine loss in the field.

The Sako 75

Debuting in early 1997, the 75 was the result of Sako�s aspirations to build the ultimate hunting rifle. Although the company employed new and innovative technology in the rifle�s manufacture, the 75 harnessed many of those time-tested features that dated back as far as the company�s first production rifle, the L46. The project began with a simple question: �What would you do if you were given the resources to design the rifle of your dreams, the ultimate rifle for the next millennium?� The answers, collected from gunsmiths and professional shooters in both Finland and the United States, provided the framework, right down to the most intricate of details. Let�s take a look at what emerged from Sako�s research.
Sako has long understood the premise, and the necessity for that matter, that an action needs to be scaled to the cartridge, as that is what determines functionality, reliability and accuracy�the cornerstones of a successful rifle design. To ensure smooth, reliable feeding, the 75 was offered in five action sizes, in both right- and left-handed versions, with each proportionate to a specific class of cartridges. From .17 Remington to .416 Remington Magnum, there was an ideally suited action. Another benefit of the scaled-down action was the elimination of excess weight.
Machined from a single piece of steel for strength, the receiver was also furnished with a flat bottom. It mated to the corresponding flat on the stock, a design touted as preventing cant during discharge�something rounded-bottom receivers supposedly experience. The traditional-style recoil lug nestled in a groove at the front end of the receiver and was held in place by a screw, unlike the welded or integral versions found on most rifles. Forward of the magazine well was the magazine release lever. The spring-loaded assembly on the trigger mechanism�s face helped retain the magazine. A hinged floorplate was an option on certain models.
Instead of a conventional, fixed ejector, the 75 had a mechanical, spring-loaded version above the trigger mechanism. It glided along the bottom of the bolt until a milled groove was reached, at which point it lifted into the channel to eject the approaching case. A rather unusual, but nonetheless clever, feature was the well-defined, two-sided feed ramp implemented to enhance cartridge transition from the staggered-row magazine into the chamber.
At the rear, left side of the receiver was the bolt-release button, which had checkering on top to enhance purchase. Above the 75�s receiver were integral, dovetail scope bases that narrow in progression to the rear�a design made specifically for use with the company�s Optilock mount.
The 75�s one-piece�head and handle included�push-feed bolt was machined, then polished, and featured a recessed face and three true locking lugs on the extreme front end. It was the first in the company�s history. Prior models were claimed to have three lugs, but the cut in the receiver tang for the root of the bolt handle was considered the third, or safety, lug. The design made for a short, smooth, 70-degree bolt lift, thereby reducing the time needed for follow-up shots and increasing the locking surface. The two lower lugs were fluted, and the bolt�s five guiding surfaces prevented binding and ensured smooth operation. A groove was milled between the two bottom lugs for passage of the mechanical ejector.
On the right side of the bolt was the revered Sako extractor, which was fitted into the bolt head and tensioned by a spring and plunger. The bolt shroud exhibited similar checkering as found on the top of the bolt handle, and its contours added to the rifle�s sleek look. Ingeniously designed, the 75�s bolt had only three internal parts and could be fieldstripped without tools.
Instead of a standard, three-position safety, Sako utilized a two-position version with a separate bolt-release button behind the bolt handle, thereby allowing the rifle to be loaded or unloaded with the safety �on.� The 75�s go-switch was an adjustable, single-stage trigger.
A cold-hammer-forged, match-grade, free-floating barrel came standard on all models, and its diameter, and therefore profile, was contingent upon the model chosen. There was an average of 1⁄50 inch of free space between it and the stock, which helped maintain point of impact through climatic changes. The barrel was finished with a slightly concave, hand-turned crown to prevent nicks and scratches on the rifling. And like the receiver, the barrel was available in stainless and blued finishes.
Depending on the model chosen, the rifle�s Monte Carlo-style stock was available in synthetic, laminated and walnut versions and included a rubber recoil pad, dual sling-swivel studs and the Sako emblem inlayed into the pistol grip. Checkering adorned the fore-end and wrist area to enhance purchase during wet conditions, and there was a palm-filling swell.


Instead of the traditional-style recoil lug of the 75 (top), the Sako 85 has a minimized version that mates to a hole in a bedding block secured directly to the stock. The groove for the traditional recoil lug is maintained for future use.


Below: To achieve the factory-touted controlled-round feed on the 85, two faces of the lower locking lugs have been removed.

The �Best,� Even Better

It was only natural for Sako to cast a refining eye toward the 75, and some 10 years after its predecessor�s introduction, the 85 has arrived. While many of the 75�s features have been maintained, there are several subtle, and a few not-so-subtle, changes.
At first glance, the differences seem slight, at least externally; however, nothing could be further from the truth. Take the stock for instance. The 85 wears a straight-comb stock with an aesthetically pleasing, classic shadow-line cheekpiece reminiscent of those on high-end safari rifles. Gone is the overly thick palm swell, which was replaced with a thinner, more-shooter-friendly profile. The checkering pattern has also changed and now ends with fewer sharp edges.
The receiver�s rear bridge has been extended and the left wall widened, the latter increasing rigidity and thereby improving accuracy. The recontoured bolt-release button is longer and projects outward less than the older version. Attention has been paid to the bolt shroud, which now possesses a less bulky look. The cocking indicator is less prominent on the 85 and contains a red, plastic insert rather than the red painted version worn by the 75.
Removing the stock, the first obvious difference with regards to the receiver is the lack of a traditional-style recoil lug. The 85 has a minimized version designed to fit in a hole milled into a 2.2x.92x.15-inch steel block secured directly to the stock by two, .75-inch screws. The synthetic-stocked version reportedly has the screws sunk into a pillar. On the bottom of the block there is a .5x.3-inch projection that looks like, and functions as, a recoil lug. Although the traditional-style recoil lug has withstood the test of time, this innovative feature better distributes recoil and allows for a more precise fit of the barreled action to the stock, resulting in improved, and more consistent, accuracy. Testing thus far has proven the system capable of sustaining recoil from a .375 H&H Magnum. Because the company predicted at some point it would chamber larger, more potent dangerous-game cartridges, it retained the groove where the traditional-style recoil lug would reside. However, with nothing in front to secure it, it begs the question, �Without welding, how will it remain in place?�
The bottom of the 85�s receiver maintains much of its flat profile, but the edges have been contoured, thereby shaving a bit of weight. The Laminated Stainless Model 85�s barreled action�with the magazine inserted�weighed 4 pounds, 7.8 ounces, while the 75 went 4 pounds, 10.5 ounces. Like the 75, the 85 has the magazine-release button on a post forward of the magazine well, only it has been redesigned. Named the �Total Control Latch,� the feature prevents an accidental magazine release�a problem with the 75. To remove the magazine, it must be pushed upward as the magazine release lever is pulled rearward. Too, the magazine has been reconfigured, now possessing straight sidewalls and shorter lips. It maintains the aluminum follower and the ability to be loaded through the loading port. Whereas the 75 has two distinct sides to the feed ramp, the 85 has a semi-traditional version.
In addition to the standard, 2 to 4 pound adjustable trigger found on the 75, a single-set version is available on the 85. Pushing forward on the trigger shoe sets it to a 7.5-ounce pull weight. The test rifle�s trigger broke cleanly at 2 3/4 pounds.
The biggest change in the Sako 85 comes in the bolt design. While it maintains three locking lugs and five guiding surfaces, it has transitioned from a push feed to what I consider a quasi-controlled-round feed, though Sako considers it true controlled-round feed. To accomplish this, two faces of lower two locking lugs have been removed; thererfore, the bottom portion of the bolt face is no longer recessed. As the cartridge is pushed forward, up the feed ramp and clear of the magazine�s lips, it rises and comes to rest against the bolt face, where it is then pushed further up and under the extractor. Even before the bolt lugs have reached the forward edge of the loading port the cartridge is under full control and can be withdrawn if desired. The benefit of this feature is obvious: reliability.
Other differences in the 85�s bolt include a slightly smaller diameter, different bolt handle angle and scaled-down locking lugs. The bolt also weighs .9 ounce less than the 75�s.
The Sako 85 will initially be available in Bavarian, Finnlight, Hunter, Hunter Stainless, Laminated Stainless, Synthetic Stainless, Varmint and Varmint Laminated models; however, the company recently informed me it plans to introduce Guide and Safari versions to the lineup sometime in the near future. Depending on the model, chamberings range from .204 Ruger through .375 H&H Magnum. With the introduction of the Safari model, the company will delve into the larger dangerous-game chamberings.
You get what you pay for, and this certainly applies to the Sako 85. Checking with a few gunshops revealed the least-expensive version is the Synthetic Stainless, which sells for around $1,300, and is approximately $225 less than the MSRP. Stepping up to the blued 85 Hunter will run cost you about $1,475. Expect to pay a few dollars extra for rifles chambered for the WSM cartridges.
The Sako 75�s longevity and market success prove the company�s original claims were not simply media hype. But when pitted against the company�s latest bolt-action, the statements seem a bit premature.
Range Results
I wanted a Sako 75 and an 85 in identical chamberings for side-by-side comparisons when penning this piece. The first two alike available were Laminated Stainless models chambered in .260 Remington�one of my favorite cartridges, and a fine choice to test the accuracy potential.
My first task was to confirm Sako�s five-shot, minute-of-angle guarantee. To do this, I mounted a Kahles KX 4-12x50 mm riflescope on the 85 and assembled an assortment of ammunition. Of the group, the Federal Premium Vital-Shok 120-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip load had the best average, measuring .76 inch for five, five-shot groups at 100 yards. Not far behind was Remington�s 120-grain AccuTip, which averaged 1.01 inches. In all, three of the four loads tested met the m.o.a. (1.047 inch) accuracy requirement. It�s reassuring to know the rifle you�re going to purchase has proven capable of shooting a five-shot, m.o.a. group before leaving the factory, and that you won�t end up with a lemon.
Although the .260 Remington falls short of a dangerous-game round, it did provide enough recoil and muzzle rise for the next test. I wanted to see how reliable the new design was, considering most people who pursue dangerous game prefer the controlled-round-feed action, and many of those chamberings will soon be available in an 85. With a target placed at 25 yards, I commenced firing as fast as possible. After ejecting the last empty case of the second box of ammunition I gave up trying to make the 85 hiccup. The action functioned flawlessly.
As anticipated, there were no failures to feed, fire, extract or eject�the hallmarks of reliability. And with its five guiding surfaces, the bolt cycled more smoothly and effortlessly than any other I�ve encountered in the past, whether custom or production. This, combined with the short bolt throw, greatly reduced the time required for a follow-up shot and allowed me to more easily chamber another round without removing the gun from my shoulder.
For the money, the Sako 85 is an amazing value. If you are in the market for a new hunting rifle and demanding uncompromising performance, give this one a good look.


Unlike the 75�s stock (right), the 85�s has a steel block attached that�s designed to accept the minimized recoil lug on the receiver. A projection on the block extends downward into a pocket resembling that for a traditional recoil lug.

[img]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/Tez308/Sako7585-3.jpg[/img]
The Sako 85�s controlled-round feeding action allows the bolt to take control of the cartridge even before the lugs reach the front of the loading port. If so chosen, the design allows for the cartridge to be withdrawn without having been chambered.


Sako 85 Laminated Stainless

Federal Premium Vital-Shok
120-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip ---.76"

Federal Premium Vital-Shok---1.04"
140-grain Sierra BTSP

Remington Premier AccuTip---1.01"
120-grain AccuTip BT

Remington Premier Core-Lokt Ultra Bonded---1.56"
140-grain Core-Lokt Ultra Bonded PSP

Accuracy measured in inches for five, five-shot groups fired from a sandbag rest at 100 yards. The Sako 85 Hunter Laminated Stainless was chambered in .260 Remington, and a Kahles KX 4-12x50 mm riflescope was mounted in Sako Optilock rings.



340

What is the LOP for the Sako 85 Finnlight? The Sako Fi site says it is 14 inches which after you spend $1400 you don't want to have to restock the rifle right away before you shoot it. I like about 13.5 inches for a comfortable fit, this is the one reason I am concerned about going with the new 85.

Stocks are like barrels, it's easy to shorten them and can be a lot more expensive to make them longer. If a rifle has a 14" LOP and you prefer 13.5, just remove the pad shorten it 1/2" and regrind the pad. This isn't an expensive operation at a good gunsmith. Making them longer can be another story - though if a gun has a 1/2" pad you can go with a 3/4 or even 1" pad to lengthen...........................DJ

djpaintless,

I've never heard of centering the windage on your scope using the Opti-Loks rings - where did you learn about this?? Very interesting!!!

I have just mounted my scopes in the Opti-Loks according to the Sako owners manual. The rear base push forward to the limiter pin and the front base just slightly forward of being even with the front edge of the action.

Then I adjust my scope forward/back to get the best sight picture and eye relief. I have never had a problem w/ windage, but elevation sometimes is a slight problem, especially with Schmidt & Bender scopes.

Anymore info you can send about using Opti-Loks will be greatly appreciated!!!

Actually it was kinda funny. On AR I got into an arguement with another poster about it even being possible (I was on the wrong side). Fortunately he was polite and persistant enough to keep explaining it to me until I finally tried what he was talking about and found that it worked.
Whenever I get on a high-horse I remember this to keep reminding myself to try and be more polite (which I know I'm not sometimes) and keep an open mind. It's just as important to know what you don't know as it is to know what you do know..............................DJ

DJ, I tried that method last week(wintertime boredom....).
It worked quite well. The scope's reticle adjustments were almost perfectly centered(counted clicks each way..) after I adjusted the windage. First shot at 100 yards was only a few inches off.

How does sliding the front ring adjust for windage??

The dovetail widens as it goes forward. With the optilock rings the left side is fixed so as you slide it forward it moves the ring to the left. It's then clamped with a section of the right side.
The mounts that don't have a clamp on the side just end up where they wedge onto the dovetail............................DJ

Does the position of the front base on the dovetail affect the "lock down" ability of the base itself??

Sako recommends installing the front base just slightly forward of flush with the receiver.

No, but if you wedge them too far foward it makes them more difficult to take them on and off....................DJ

Thanks for the info DJ!!

As soon as I get mY custom Sako back, I will give it a try.

Take care!!

Does the 85 have a 2 or 3 position saftey??

3 position safety.

It might be better described as a 2 position safety with a bolt release. The bolt release is right in front of the safety so that you can release the bolt with the safety on....................DJ

Alot of good info. on this thread. I have a question for you Sako experts. I have a Sako AV on the way. Is the 75/85 dovetail same as the AV dovetail so that the same rings fit it? Also where is the best place to get optilocks? The rifle is coming with high Leupolds but I am thinking I might want to put something else on it. Thanks.
Frank

The dovetails are the same so you can use whichever rings you like............................DJ

Is Sako discontinuing the Model 75? I don't much care for the recoil lug system of the 85.

Yes, they have been discontinued. I understand your concerns about the recoil system, but you won't be disappointed in the rifle. I would only have concerns if I was buying one in a big magnum.

Handled a finlight 85 yesterday in 30-06 and man that is a nice gun. Is $1,250 a reasonable price for a new one? This one didn't come with Optilocks either and I'm working under the assumption that those will run an additional 100 bucks or so . . .

Regardless, nice gun. I actaully owned a 75 finlight but it was involved in the recall when they were having problems, still liked the gun but the stock didn't suit me as well as the 85 does.

VERY good price!

Im looking for a sako 85 300 win mag, but now am not sure because of the lack of a recoil lug. Has anyone ever shot an 85 in 300 win mag, and how is the accurcy of this gun compared to others in the same price range?

I've shot my 85 in .300WSM around 200-250 times. No problems....
Just loaded up another 80 rounds for a trip back to the hills. Hopefully the coyotes don't like it as well as I do....

I'll be upgrading my browning 300WSM to a Sako 85 SS as soon as I'm done paying off the current McMillan stock.

Spot

Hows the accuracy of the gun?

Given worked up loads it shoots better than me I'm sure...
I've managed every where from 2.5-7" at 400 with the same load.
I was out yesterday and put 10 shots within 4" (horizontally/crosswinds..) at 250 and a final group of 3 at 1.75".
Not the spectacular groups you read about but good enough for me.

What gun in 300winmag is comprable to the sako 85 or better, that is in the same price range?

Can anyone post pictures of their 85 setup?

Thanks DJ.

What is a gun comprable to the sako 85

I consider the Kimber Montana to be probably the closest combination to a Sako 85. IMO they both have advantages and disadvantages over the other. I've had great luck with the 9 Kimber Centerfire rifles I've had, though there have been some complaints of varying quality control. A good Kimber however can be a great rifle and equal to the Sako 85. I hunt with both of them.

My Sako model 85 is a 270 WSM Grey Wolf with a Swaro 3-12x50 PH with the TDS reticle, in Optilock mounts:



The deer isn't the biggest one we shot this year where I was hunting in Pennsylvania but he's tasting great!

I've also hunted a bit with Sako 75's. This one is a 300 RUM with a Swaro 4-16x50 PH, TDS again with Optilock mounts:



Again, not the biggest Elk of the year but he ate great, my Mom and Stepdad ate almost the whole Elk!.

Of the 2 rifles, so far the 300 RUM is more accurate. I probably should work on load developement a little more for the WSM. I wouldn't say that 75's are more accurate than 85's just this example. I'm sure that my 85 Grey Wolf will improve with a little more work, it's about the 3/4" 3 shot group at 100yd rifle. I prefer the Grey Wolf stock to the old synthetic because it's shaped better and feels "Warmer" being made of laminated wood. The laminated seemed to hold up well in the rain I was hunting in......................................DJ

Kimber is no comparison...not even in the same league...Kimber's QC is of questionable standards. Sako will not let you down.

BTW great pics and animals DJ...

I'd have to disagree. I own several of both. In fact the only problem I have with my 270 WSM Sako is that my Kimber is a good bit more accurate, the Sako shoots 3/4" at 100yds, the Kimber has shot 1/2" at 200yds. Both are excellent rifles.....................DJ

Maybe but I have never had to send my Sako to a smith to fix a mess like Kimber made on their rifle.

what calibers do you own in kimber, also I am looking for a 75 are there any new ones left in stores like cabelas ect..

I use to have a 270WSM in a Kimber, but it went down the road like a lame horse going to the glue factory...will never have another. I have a Sako 85 now in a 30-06 and love it.

I should say that the 270WSM is a great caliber, it was just the rifle I hated.

In Kimber's I have or have had a 2-270 WSM's, a 7 WSM, 2-300 WSM's, a 325 WSM, a 7-08, and a 308 Winchester, and a 22lr. All shot sub-MOA and I only did any real work on 1 of them - which was bedding the floorplate.
In Sako's I have or have had a 223, 6 PPC, 2-308's, 270 Winchester, 270 WSM, 300 WSM, 7 RUM, 2-300 RUM's, 338 Win Mag, 338 Lapua Mag and a 375 H&H.
I feel that I've had at least a decent sampling of both rifles. I'm sorry that a few people have had Kimbers they were disappointed with but please remember that there also are a lot of people that think they are the best rifles they've ever owned. They are at least worth a look along side the Sako's............................DJ

Im looking at getting a new 300 win mag, which one would you recomend between the sako 85 the kimber or anyother?

I would really like to find a new 75 but dont think I will find a new one in 300 win mag.

Just take a look online at gunsamerica and/or gunbroker and you should be able to find a model 75 in new or close to new condition. Or call cabelas and ask them to check the inventory in all their stores, they'll transfer it from one to another for you.

Leupold showed-up today. DJ, followed your instructions. Everything went fine until I started sliding the front base/ring. Nothing happened. I had everything level and the vertical line matched-up with the door frame. Moving the base didn't change anything. I did use the mirror and matched-up the reticle with its shadow, so maybe I have everything as it should be. Gotta get it to the range this weekend to sight in.

Tighten everything up right where you have it and then sight the rifle in. After you are dead on at 100yds, loosen the front ring screws and slide the base forwards tighten everything up and reshoot, you'll see the windage change. The reason you didn't notice any movement is that you probably didn't have the front base lower screw tightened.
So, what do you think of the Optilocks otherwise?............................DJ

OCC, that is a nice rifle, what caliber? What model Leupold do you have mounted on it?

That is one sexy set up OCC!

Sweet looker.

OCC, are they extra-low Optilocks?


340

LOL! I'm laughin' at myself! DJ, I missed a very importrant part of your instructions.



Don't ask what I did!

I think the Optilocks are the only real choice. I like them just fine. Now that I have ordered this custom scope, I'm pleased that I don't have to worry about putting ring marks on it. The Talleys would have marred my action if I would have really tightened them down! They already left a little just snugging them enough to hold them in place for the photo shoot. I need to find some "extra low" rings as the "lows" are a little higher than I would like with a 36mm objective.

Jimmy, it's a good ol' .308 Winchester! Got it from a Georgia Cracker (dealer) from the Dalton, Georgia area! I had a hard time finding one in .308 Win. I was going to have to wait a few months before Beretta expected more from Finnland.

The scope is a Leupold VXIII 2.5-8x36mm and I had Leupold put an M1 turret on for elevation. It probably would have looked a bit more conventional with a turret for windage too, but I am by no means a marksman and know absolutely nothing about wind doping. Once I have the windage adjusted, it will just be a game of moving the crosshairs for elevation to compensate for whatever handload the rifle likes best. I'm going to start with 130gr TTSXs and work through the 168gr TSXs. I'll fool with a few Accubonds and maybe even the 150gr E-Tip. You know the drill around here. It's just going to be the go-to whitetail gun.

harv & 340, thanks! They're "lows." I would like "extra lows", but can't seem to find any.

I have an "M. Edge" on order for it! I hope I get it in enough time for someone to pillar and glass bed it for the '08-'09 season.

OCC,

Ya know that rifle is only going to weight 7lbs and 8oz if you put an edge on it.

Spot

I have no idea what it weighs now. It's no Kimber 84M Montana, but it's nice and light.

Looks pretty nice OCC. Let us know how the range session goes...

OCC,

My bad I thought you were talking about an Edge on a Sako finnlight.

Spot

I was. The Edge will probably be several more weeks before it arrives or I'll have to send my barreled action to McMillan. I thought it would weigh less than 7lb 8oz all-up though. Still not bad.

I bought a Sako 85 finnlite in 300WSM. What bases and rings do i need ? The Sako Website is a little confusing for me to order them without checking with the guys who have done it already.
My scope will be a VXIII 2.5x8x36
My guess would be the Short bases, with extra low rings for the optilocks. Am I correct?
Basicly the gun will be the same as Oldcenterchurch but in 300WSM

The Optilocks are tall.
If you can find them get the one piece extra lows. The two piece low version are more common and about a couple of mm taller. I have the low, short action bases on my .300WSM. About a 1/4" gap with a 40mm objective.

I went with the lows, but wish I had the extra lows. I can't find them anywhere!

I have the extra lows on mine and they are about perfect

Harv,

Extra low ringmounts or Talley's ?

Spot

Yeah, rub it in!

I'd go with lows or xtra lows in optilocks, they are often on ebay.

I like Tods setup. Although I'm sure the Optilocks are also another great option, & as tough as nails.
I just love how these sit so low over the action.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...Board/29/page/1/fpart/all/gonew/1#UNREAD
These are mediums. Lows also can be used if so desired.
http://www2.leupold.com/resources/MountFitChart/default.asp


340

HARV,

Put up a picture.

Spot

OCC,
I bought my X-Lows from:

Accuflite Sports
Export, PA
724-733-3666

Check out their web site. The guy's name is James Bartol (JB). He's pricy, but has lots of Sako stuff and seems knowledgable with respect to Sako's.

Good Luck.... Rob

Mine are the extra low optiloks...o ya they are very nice

I will get a picture up in the next couple days...I am going to gone for a day or so.

Just a note on the Optilocks extra lows. I've changed my lows to extra lows on my Sako AII in 308. Scope is the a Leupold 2.5-8 x 36. Because the base is so chunky the power change ring will actually contact the top of the rear base & leupolds are some of the trimmest scopes in this regard. So you do compromise some eye relief (not a problem with a 308) but you will not be able to mount it in the position shown in the photos above with the power ring right over the rear base.

This is the limiting dimension not the distance the objective is above the barrel.

Regards
JohnT

Well i went to Sportsmans warehouse today and they had the optiloc lows and the Leuopold mediums. I picked up both and will decide what one i will use when the gun gets here. I like how clean the Lupeys look on that gun that was on that other topic. They didnt have the extra lows in Optilock or the lows in Lupey so i got what they had since they were 30% off due to store closing. I figured i could sell what i dont use and still pocket a little money with that kind of discount.
The Lupeys are just like the optiloc extra lows without the down pin, but i may be able to machine that in when i get the gun and do some measuring.

The pocket in your receiver should be 0.230" dia shmaltz. The pin in your optis is .156" dia. If your going to pin the leupold front ring I've some .188 dia ss drill rod at the farm you can make the pin from. The pin should project .125" from the ring base.

Remember me talking about the .226 dia x .125 bushing I made for the Tikka .156 pin?

This does not happen with the Vx11's. It just clears.



340

I may have to use the Leupy ring mounts just for that reason. My scope will be a VXIII 2.5X8X36 and i got the "long" optilock bases for the WSM.

If the pocket is .230 why did they make the pin so small? Maybe it is different on that cheapo gun you bought

Harv and RT you two are killing me.

OK sako x-low's but are they Ringmounts or Optilock rings in X-low.

Spot

Spot,
The Optilock X-lows are ringmounts.... (the base and ring are permanently attached).

I have them mounted on a Sako 75 (.270) with a 3X9X40 Zeiss Conquest, and still have clearance.

I'll try to post pics tomorrow.

Rob

I just returned from Sportsmans and had the opportunity to look at my first 85.

First of all, what a superb barreled action!!! Best in the industry
no doubt about it. No reason to ever send it to a smith to clean up.

Second of all, WHAT A PIECE OF CRAP STOCK!!

That's a $20.00 stock on a $1,300 rifle.

Hey Spot...Here's some pics of my Sako 75 (.270) with a 3X9 Zeiss Conquest in Optilock X-Lows. Sorry about the shadows... but you'll get the idea. They look something like the Leupolds, but much more rugged (heavier) and the rear ringmount has the recoil pin.





Hope this helps... Rob

Yeah they sure are well put together in the metal-work department. But I do agree, those synthetic stocks are not that flash. The cheekpiece looks like an after thought



340

They do not look like Optilocks. Are they an older model?



340

Optilock X-lows are a ringmount... with the plastic ring inserts and the recoil pin in the rear base.

Rob

Those are Optilock ringmounts. They make 2 kinds of optilocks, the ones where the base and ring are separate, and the ringmounts where the bottom base 1/2 fits the dovetail......................DJ

I was thinking the same thing when I was looking at the 85 a few days ago.

I wonder if McMillan will make a stock that fits the M85?

I really like the action and would trade every Remington I own for one. I just hate having to pay out more for another stock.

That is how I see it as well.
The weapon is expensive enough as is.

I still want one, though!!

They already do. You might still have to send the barreled action to McMillan, but there are already some who have McMillans on their 85s. I have an Edge on order for mine.

Ditto the crappy stock. I'm not real fond of mine on my Finnlight, but it will have to do for now.

Ditto the barreled action too!! Piece of art!! I love mine and just can't say enough about how smooth the action is. I'm sure they're all incredible, but it is SO choice in SA .308 Win.!!

I'll go out on a limb and say the 85 is the best action I've ever seen. That's how much I like them.

Well then I dare say they will up to the job, as this recoil-pin makes a huge difference stopping scopes moving forward under recoil.



340

That's not going out on a limb. IMO they are so well built, with all steel-work/action gelling perfectly.
I think the Sako 85 will become a CLASSIC! Certainly in my top two push-feed designs.


340

I've got to agree that the 85 Synthetic stock is pretty hard to love. But you can do what I did and get a 85 Grey Wolf:



It worked just fine in pouring rain. The laminates feel "warmer" than the synthetics also, and have good graspable checkering..................DJ

McMillan does make have stocks for the 85 but haven't named any as such.

I... Hhahaha I had one on order - my 85 Should be back from McMillan here in 2 months.

For Sako 85's the 75 stock is too shallow so you have to order a Sako Classic or Hunter version.

Spot

Thanks RT!

I thought you were talking about RingMounts vs. the base / ring combingation.

It's hard to tell which is which from the sako documentation.

Spot

Thanks, Spot!

Mine are the Optilok extra low rings which are seperate from the base...not one piece.

rt_con,

Do you know what the measurement from the base of the ring to the bottom of the scope tube is on those X-Low optilocks?

Looks like 1/2"... (measured from the top surface of the Sako dovetail to the bottom of the scope tube).

Rob

So Harv,

You going to tell us where the heck you found the x-low sako rings (for the bases) ... all I can find is ringmounts in x-low.

Thanks,
Spot

The 1 piece xlows are 150 thousands lower than the 2 piece lows that came with my 75ss. Your local Beretta dealer can order them and in about 4 months you might have them for $145!

I got them from the same place I bought my Sako 85, Ellwood Epps out of Ontario...

Ellwood Epps Web Site

DOH...

I forgot to read your Location tag line.

Sorry -

I'll have to look state side and see if I can find a pair.

Spot

Did I mention Spotshooter how nice they are?

Why can't they ship from Canada?

For you guys wanting pics and info re: the Optilock X-LOW one piece ringmounts, here's a partially assembled set. (not showing the plastic ring inserts).

I purchased these over a year ago from either Accuflite or TJ General Store... think for $120-$140. I still have the package which gives a height of 1.12" from bottom of the base to the horizontal split in the ring. Incidently, the package also shows this same height for Optilock LOWs as 1.20". If my math is correct that's only a difference .08" (less than 1/10th of an inch!)

When I bought the rings I followed DJ's (djpaintless) advice in an old post re: Optilocks.. and purchased the 2.5mm bit pictured from Brownells. It fits the Optilock ring screws perfectly and I haven't damaged the screws yet (knock on wood)...and have swapped them out 3 times, so far. Thanks DJ!

Good Luck... Rob

Great pic rt thanks.



340

Finally got a pic done...whats not to love about the Sako 85?

Very nice set up, love those sakos!

Couldn't disagree more. If they are anything like the 75, they are over engineered nonsense. Ever try taking apart the bolt on a 75? Seeing that half assed set up was enough for me to sell both of mine.

The stock.. I wouldn't use the word "love" but it is O.K. I LOVE everything else about mine. Feeds and shoots great. I just find the goofy plastic cheek piece pops up one in a while. I don't quite understand the whole logic behind the 2 piece butt stock. But that thing has one kick ass smooth action that is for sure

Ok, I will admit my stainless ones sit in a mcmillan stock, I too don't care for sakos synthetic offerings.

Sweet pic Rob, nice combo!

Schmalts, I didn't even know the cheek piece was capable of popping up?


Personally I think the 85 is kinda sexy. Of course a McEdge would be the icing on the cake.


Eurotrash...

I don't mind the stock at all...the gun shoots awesome so why mess with it is my thinking. It has an unbelievably smooooooth action....I do love it...so much that I have sold off everything else I had.

I have 2 75's and a wood stocked 85 (.270). Here's a pic of the 85.

At first I didn't like the stock design of the 85, as the 75 stock fits me perfectly. Plus it looked cheap with it's matte finish and dull wood. I was going to dump the 85.

However after shooting it, I noticed the 85 seems to have less recoil than my wood stocked 75 (both .270's)... and the 75 weighs much more. I guess it's the stock geometry ?

Also, I only tried 4 factory loads and found 2 that shot 3/4" right away... the Fed Premium Nosler Ballistic Tips and the Fed Premium Sierra Game Kings. (both 130 grs). So I'm keeping my 85.

Good luck... Rob

Is that cheek piece on the 85 the same as the Benelli's to absorb recoil? Cross pollination of technology amongst Beretta holdings?

Sam, It will just grab it and give it a pull. Almost like it was a poor attempt at an adjustable cheek piece but it is so cheesy i hope it wasn't made to be adjusted.
For what it is worth, I shot my Sako85 finnlite and my Kimber Montana with the same load side by side and I found the sako to recoil less. But i did like the stock or the Montana better but that gun just didn't feed or shoot in the same level

I gave 'er a pretty good push with my thumbs and it didn't move more than maybe a big 1/8".
Who knows...

Damn nice equipment. I think I like the Ultravids best though.........................547.

So is $1265 a good price for the Sako 85 Finnlight SS NIB, shipped?

I certainly think so.

Then you put an H&K or McMillan stock on it and a Leupold VXIII scope and you've got a great rifle for a little over $2500...?

Yup.

If you want to save a little, keep an eye out for a deal on a 75.

I basically saved the price of a McMillan on the rifle over buying a new 85 and got an Edge-stocked ss 75 for $1400. Still waiting for the stock though, but it's worth waiting for.

Has anyone noticed an extra long throat on their 75? The closest I can get 130s to the lands and fit the mag are 130 thous. Factory loads are about 240 off the lands.

The 75 I had was long throated. My 85 is throated the same.
Both are .300 Fattys.

That is my point. why is it moving at all?? not sure what the whole idea of that seperate cheek part is

Hell if I know.
Maybe Sako thought about offering aftermarket cheekpieces with different heights and they are meant to be swapped out?

You should take a pry bar to the cheekpiece and see if you can get it to pop off the stock.......grinnin'

Mine is a 270wsm. Funny thing is it would shoot under 1moa with 130s if I could get rid of the fliers. And won't shoot 140s under 1.25 which I can get to 50 thou. to the lands. My local gunsmith says its border line out of spec on the chamber and I'm guessing Sako makes them this way to lawyer proof them. Anyone have any exeperience dealing with Beretta ?

Didn't mean to hijack this thread but there was just a lot of Sako info here.

Have you tried seating the bullets deeper than specs(2.86")?

I'm working up a load with 150 grain Etips and they're doing the flier deal. Not terrible, about 2-2.5" groups at 200 yards, but there's room for improvement. They seem to shoot better seated deeper. The last batch are at 2.84" but I haven't shot 'em yet.

AussieGunWriter mentioned in a thread awhile back that seating bullets deeper can eliminate the flyer's. Seems to be true in my limited experience.

Too bad a kimber Montana Stock will not fit a Sako 85 action! The 85 stock LOP is too long for me, I would buy a Finnlight but cannot justify spending $1300.00 on a rifle just to have to add another $5-600 to get a good stock that fits. I like the twist rate they have on the .308 win rifle, 1-11, but not that finlight stock.

The Sako WSM's do have longer throats than most others you'll run into. My other 30 cal mags also have long throats, it sure hasn't kept them from shooting good though.
The smart thing to to with a long throated rifle is to seat the bullets where they shoot good and function properly, don't worry about how far off the lands they are.....................DJ

McMillan is fitting my .308 85 with a Sako Classic in Edge tech.

What is it about Sako (or Tikka) stocks that has everyone wanting to buy new ones?

They guarantee five shots into an inch - so I doubt a newer stock will be more accurate. They are around a 6 1/2 pounds in most calibers - so I doubt they are going to save much weight. Finally, to my eye, the factory Sako stock looks good and to me, handles great - what am I missing?

The Sako stocks fit me very well also. I just don't care for the actual rifles

Perhaps it is the stock weight? My old Sako 75's were far from being light weights. The Tikka stocks are also a bit flimsy comapared to the Sako.

The "plastic" 85's are a little lighter, by about 1/2 a pound I think.

A McEdge would be nice but I have no plans or reason to restock.

My thoughts as well...why mess with something that shoots great and I am not going to shave any real amount of weight off of.

Maybe it's that Wilt Chamberlain 14" LOP. Finns must have arms like monkeys, especially since they probably do all their shooting with parkas on.