Because I think the 375Ruger design and base cartridge is so outstanding, I became interested in the 338RCM. I know little about the 338FED, but I do like the 338-06, and I love the 350RM. The 338RCM appears to fit into this short barrel group well, and when combined with the Hawkeye rifle, the overall package seemed worthy of my purchase. I ordered a brand new rifle which cost me $604, a case of ammo cost me $29 per box, and a set of dies cost me $26. The rifle, ammo, and dies are readily available and delivery time is a matter of days. I think that is an outstanding value in today�s market and I give a thumbs up to the boys at Ruger and Hornady. This is more so an ongoing thread that I�ll add to as I tinker with this particular rifle and cartridge. I'll give it an honest try and see how well it stands up to my 350RM. I suspect that it will be every bit the equal if not a bit better as there are so many great .338 bullets available today which should give the 338RCM an advantage in versatility. The belt less Ruger case certainly has advantages.

Later

I took the RCM out of the box yesterday and gave it a look over. First impressions are that the fit and finish is every bit the equal of my 375Ruger with the exception that the RCM wood stock does not have quite as much figure in the grain. But the stock is indeed straight grained and appears to be a good piece of wood. As is out of the box, the rifle weighed 6 lbs 14 oz, and the trigger was crisp pulling just under 5 pounds with no creep and with a perfect amount of over travel. Adding a LEU 1.5 - 5X scope with covers and the supplied medium rings brought the weight up exactly 1 pound to 7 lbs 14 oz. I tested the scope with both low ringmounts and the medium ringmounts and much prefer mediums (#4 and #5). The lows clear the scope, but lesson learned from hunting with my 375Ruger, the lows causes the scope to crowd the loading/ejection port and restricts the ability to use the scope as a handle. The mediums gives better clearance while allowing a perfect cheek weld when looking straight down the scope. Rifle balance is excellent with and without scope, it handles well, and points naturally.

The mag box holds 4 down, as is, and will feed with all 4 in the box, but there is not quite enough room to clear a 5th round in the tube. I suspect some modifications might add enough wiggle room in the box to allow 4 + 1 capacity. I didn't measure the box, but first glance gave me the impression there is enough room to use big bullets with the cartridge.

I'll probably epoxy a stock cross pin through the thin web area between the mag box and trigger inlets, and bed the stock. I may even pick up a factory all weather stock and play around with that as well.

Later

I'm unsure about the synthetic stock RCM, but did anyone notice that the wood stock RCM is CNC inletted to free float the barrel? All of my previous Rugers had a forend pressure point, this one does not. I can slide a dollar bill the length of the barrel channel to the contact pad that extends 2 inches beyond the receiver. I checked the factory torque on my action screws and they were 70in-lbs front, 40in-lbs middle, and 30in-lbs rear. Odd combination which probably accounts for the binding mag box. I picked up some sleeve pillars to install and I'll bed the action along with adding a second cross pin. I think she's going to work out well!

Later

First step was to install pillar sleeves. The stock action screw holes were opened up with a 9/16� end mill. Set-up for the holding fixture was pretty straight forward.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3568032272/

Later

Holes were cut against a .005" stop to prevent any chipping of the wood stock.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3567221199/

Later

In addition, a cross pin hole was drilled through the thin webbing between the trigger and mag box openings. This will reinforce the webbing area to prevent splitting.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3568034048/

Later

Do you think bedding the lug and the tang would had achieved the same results?

Thanks for the write up/pics. Looking forward to the follow ups.

Everything lined up and ready to install the pillar sleeves. Note the grooves cut into the sleeves to hold the epoxy.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3567223185/

Later

This shows the location for the cross pin through the webbing.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3567225507/

Made up a set of socket head action screws to replace the stock slot screws.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3567226295/

Pillar sleeves fitted and epoxied into place with Marine-tex gray. Everything aligns with perfect mag box clearance.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3568039268/

I am going to bed the lug and tang. The reason for the pillar sleeves are two fold:

1. The bedding epoxy is stronger than the wood itself. This is a light weight wood stock and when you hog out material around the action screws for the bedding compound you reduce the thickness of the remaining wood. The bedding compound will not crush, but the thinned out area of wood will crush and deform over time. You eliminate this by either making pillars from the epoxy itself while bedding, or you install pillar sleeves and then bed.

2. I'm of the opinion that the aluminum pillar sleeves are a better option with the M77 angle screw action. In addition, I have a trick up my sleeve by taking advantage of the extra length in the sleeves. I used the sleeves to slightly increase the distance between the bottom metal and action to properly clear the mag box so there is no binding. This combined with removing a small amount of material from the four feet on the follower should give me enough clearance to hold 4 rounds in the mag box with one in the chamber. 4+1 (5 rounds total) with perfect feeding:)

Later

I had a few minutes to tinker with the rifle so I decided to start on the work to prepare the stock for bedding. What I did tonight was to floating the barrel channel to allow enough room for a stiffening/sealing layer of bedding epoxy underneath the floated barrel. Later I'll hog out wood for a pad at the barrel boss, lug area, tang, etc.

I decided to share with you a quick and simple trick I use to open the barrel channel while perfectly matching the barrel contour. Often I'll see persons use all sorts of odd tools, blocks, and such to open the barrel channel in a stock already inletted for the barrel. What I do is use the barrel itself as the tool and guide to open the channel. I use even layers of panters tape (.005" each layer), and 3M 60Course sandpaper(.025" thick) cut into 1" strips. That's all you need to float the barrel and end up with a channel that perfectly matches the barrel contour.

The barreled action sits in the stock by its own weight and the back of the sandpaper strip is run against the painters tape on the barrel. In the beginning you'll need to use one layer of tape and you'll need to shim the end of the barrel slightly to give you room to work. I use two or three pieces of the sandpaper itself to shim the barrel. As you progress, you remove a shim until you work the barrel fully into the channel. You can add as many layers of tape as you desire to reach your desired clearance. This is my first cut with one layer of tape and a couple of shims:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3572010222/

It took very little time to work the barrel down into the channel and to open it up with a couple of layers of tape. At this point I have a perfect .035" clearance the length of the barrel. A dollar bill is .005", so I now have enough room to float the barrel and leave a solid stiffening/sealing coat of bedding epoxy along the length of the channel.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3571204625/

Later

Man Gary that is smart! I will do that when it comes time to bed my 300RCM.

Thanks very much. You post is one on the most educational on the subject of pillar bedding & epoxy beddding.

regards,
JohnT

GaryVA,

After you posted that your 338RCM wood stocked was free floated I checked my 300RCM, tight inletting. Looks like full contact all the way along barrel channel.

Shot it again yesterday & starting to get useful velocities but consistent horizontal stringing. I'm using W760, Fed 215 & 168gr T-TSX's. Any suggestions re:reducing the horizontal?



regards,
JohnT

Have you tried any Hunter?

Update:) I had a bit more time to work on the Ruger. As previously noted, I want the barrel free floating which can be difficult to execute correctly when using a light weight wood stock such as the RCM. The stock has enough flex that it becomes difficult to maintain a stiff forend even with a skim layer of bedding epoxy. It would defeat my purpose to add a ton of weight to the stock in an effort to stiffen the forend, so I devised a simple solution which I thought was very clever.

I inletted the forend to accept an aluminum forend stiffener that I custom made from aluminum stock. It may look and sound difficult, but it was fairly easy. This is the rough inlet that I ran from the front sling swivel all the way back to the barrel boss:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3578961618/

This shows the basic fit of my custom aluminum stiffener. I designed this unit to fit flush into the forend inlet and to tie into the sling swivel at the front and tie into the bedding pad under the barrel boss at the rear. I need a tiny bit more hand fitting before I epoxy the unit into place. This should completely stabilize the forend while adding a marked amount of both vertical and lateral stiffness. I will have a full floated barrel with no barrel contact when position shooting while maintaining light weight. I am very pleased with how the stock is turning out to this point.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3578960972/

Later

Holds 4 down, that sort of suprises me, I do like the feel of that rifle.

My 338 WSM (M70) holds 3 down and dats it.

Sounds like your rig will be about 8 lbs all up and ready to go, nice rig now doubt!

Keep us in the loop about speed and accuracy ok?

Thx 4 sharing

Dober

JOhn T-what are you getting for speed out of your 300/168 load?

Thx
Dober

JohnT, I don't know your level of training, experience, and skill, so there could be a myriad of causes for stringing be it shooter of be it equipment.

If you are not squared away, you could be changing hand or bag location on the forend between shots. You could be changing the cant of the rifle between shots. You could be changing your cheek or spot weld between shots and not looking straight through the sight. You could be heavy on the trigger. Etc., etc.

If it is the the rifle, the barreled action may be binding in its bedding and/or the barrel may have uneven contact. As it heats up, things move. The trigger may be overly heavy. The ringmounts may not be properly seated and may be moving. Etc., etc.

If the mag box is locked into place tight, good chance that the center screw is binding the action which is never good. If the barreled action is not sitting squarely and flush in the inletting and against the lug mortise, chances are that the barrel has uneven pressure along its channel. Etc., etc.

On an unbedded Ruger, I generally go as tight as I can on the action screws without binding the mag box. Usually this runs around 35in-lbs on the front, 25in-lbs on the rear, and 15in-lbs on the center. Some I can go higher, others I cannot. If the rifle is properly bedded and everything is sqared away even, you can bring up the torque without binding the action. You can always add material or remove material from the barrel bedding pressure point to find the sweet spot.

Hope this is of some help.

Later

Mark about 2835fps with the 60.5gr W760 & Fed 215's. Primers look normal not flattened at all, nor any cratering. Could up it slightly but around these levels is good for me in a 20" baarrel.

Shaq we don't get any of the Ramshot powders in Australia.

Regards,
JohnT

Heck, I thought that primers were supposed to be flat and cratered a bit in order to not be abby normal...

Thx
Dober

Spare time is hard for me to find, but I found enough tonight to complete the final touches on fitting the forend aluminum stiffener. Ready for epoxy.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3590207339/

Later

The aluminum stiffener is epoxied into place and it has made a huge improvement to the stiffness of the forend. It is easily 2X times stiffer and the weight of the stock is about the same as original. When I add the bedding epoxy for the barrel boss pad, the stiffness should increase even more. The barrel floats perfectly and I am more than pleased with the results:)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3597885487/

Later

Being that the pillars were installed straight and square within the stock, I made a set of pillar bushings on the lathe with an ID to fit over the front and rear action screws and an OD to fit inside the front and rear pillars. These pillar bushings take out all play and hold the barreled action in perfect alignment within the stock while bedding. Once installed, the barreled action fits on top of the pillars dead center with zero slop. They will only be used while bedding the action.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3612781812/

Even with the front recoil lug mortise hogged out for bedding epoxy, with the pillar bushings installed, the barreled action is held perfectly square within the stock with zero play. The forend channel matches the barrel contour and is relieved a measured .050" to float the barrel. I will probably use four layers of PASCO tape (total .040") on the barrel underside when bedding which will float the barrel .040" and seal the channel for the remaining .010" with bedding epoxy.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3612782258/

Later

Wow really a superb job Gary. Can't wait till you shoot that thing!

Those screw bushings are a really nice touch. As I don't have a lathe I have to make do with masking tape over the screws.

regards
JohnT

Update; I used four layers of PASCO tape (.040" total) the length of the barrel leaving a 1.5" bare section for a contact pad at the barrel shank. For best balance and minimal weight, the barrel contact pad at the receiver only needs to extend beyond the balance point of the assembled barreled action less stock. Mine balances on a knife edge at 1.25" so my goal was for a 1.5" contact pad.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3638793420/

The barreled action removed after the epoxy was poured, set-up, and cured. Complete bedding of the recoil lug and receiver area ahead of the mag box inlet, a 1.5" contact pad at the barrel shank, and an epoxy sealed barrel channel with a .040" float.

Another tip I'll share; my favorite method for removing a bedded barreled action is to use the lap technique. For right handers, lay the rife upside down across your lap with the wrist of the stock and rear tang rested on you left thigh. Firmly grasp the stock forend near the sling swivel with your left hand and raise the barrel off your right thigh. Using a rubber, leather, or padded mallet, sharply strike the underside of the barrel next to the forend using short strokes. Repeat these short sharp raps until the barreled action breaks loose. This technique works like an impact wrench and reduces the likelihood of damaging the stock or bedding. I normally pop out the barreled action within a few raps.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3638794000/

Removal of the clay filler from the aluminum forend stiffener. This area could have been filled with epoxy to increase stiffness. The forend turned out plenty stiff without the added epoxy so I was able to keep the weight down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3638794544/

Rough overall look of the barrel channel before clean up. The forend turned out perfect with a marked increase in stiffness and stability with minimal weight. Everything looks great to this point. I'll bed the rear tang and the bottom metal next.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3637981525/


Later

I made up a threaded cross pin with a slot head to strengthen the stock through the thin webbing area between the mag box and trigger inlets.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3669561513/

I also inletted an aluminum lug for the front end of the trigger guard. The lug is at the correct height to match the rear pillar for a perfect fit.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3669562419/

Using epoxy, the rear cross pin was threaded into place using a driver for the slot head. The pin was made short to recess below the surface on both ends.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3670367740/

In addition to the rear cross pin, the front recoil lug cross screw was modified and epoxied into place leaving the ends recessed. The recessed ends were filled with Marine Tex epoxy. This is the rough look after the tape was removed. Once cured, I'll sand the epoxy even to the surface and cover with clear. The Marine Tex will look like hand fit ebony plugs.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3670368206/

Everything fits well and the barrel channel turned out perfect.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3670368692/

Perfect barrel float with the forend now extra stiff while maintaining light weight.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3669564357/

Sorry for being so slow on the work, but I�ve been very busy and I�ve only managed a small amount of time here and there for this Ruger. But, I�m still enthused and I�m of the opinion that everything is on track.

I need to do a few final touches to complete the stock and then I�ll get on the barreled action. I have a much improved front sight to install that is near identical to the factory African style white bead. I also need to work on the follower to see if I can get 4 down with 1 in the tube to feed properly. I may add a deep protected crown.

I�ll get back to the thread as soon as time allows.

Later

I completely removed the stock finish and repaired a few minor dings. I refinished the stock with Acraglas using heat to suck the epoxy resin into the surface of the wood. The Acraglas seals the wood to the surface and is a bomb proof stock finish. This is my last coat of Acraglas just above the surface. It is glossy at this stage.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3679180449/

Acraglas is an absolute bombproof stock finish for a rough duty wood stock. The grain shows up nicely and the color is good. I'll let it sit a day or so to fully cure and then I'll come back and cut the gloss back with Rotten Stone to a nice satin finish. I expect it will turn out exceptionally well for factory wood.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3679992326/

Later

What happened to the additonal posts? I added a bunch more on the stock and those posts are now deleted. I'll try again.

I cut the gloss back on the Acraglas to a dull satin finish. This is the appearance without any wax. It turned out well.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3699865210/

The barrel channel is all sealed and solid. I should not have any moisture issues.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3699865952/

She's coming together well! Everything is turning out as planned so far. I'm pleased with the Acraglas finish on the stock, it should hold up to many years of hard service. You can catch it in this pick that I've already installed the new front sight. This was a great improvement over the small brass bead.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3710430319/

Closer look at the new front sight, she stands out like a sore thumb. You can see the overall Acraglas finish a bit better in this pic. I mixed dye into the Acraglas to match the original Ruger color as best I could. I could have really glossed her up, but I wanted dull satin. The color came out good, the grain came through, and the Acraglas has the wood sealed up tight.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3710431561/

I need to lap the ringmounts and fit the scope next. I'll try to knock this out tomorrow so I can get it on paper this week. I expect this rifle will shoot very well and I expect it to hold up to much hard use while holding tight groups. I'll add to the thread when time allows.

Later

Nice work gary. I like it alot!

I used 800 Garnet to lap the ringmounts for about 80% contact, they look good. I have a set of the old Falcon Industry Quick Release Levers for Ruger Ringmounts that I may install but I need to blue them first. I also need to touch up some bluing here and there, I'll then mount a Leupold 1.5-5X German 4 scope. I'd like to get it on paper this week if I can manage the time.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3714238111/

Later

I've got the ringmounts all squared up and the bluing completed. Everything is buttoned up and ready for range work. When the weather breaks, I'll get her on paper.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3729567659/

Later

Got her on paper with factory fodder and she appears to be a shooter. Three shot string going from a dead cold squeaky clean barrel, followed by a warm barrel second shot, and then a hot barrel third shot. Let her cool down and then made a 1MOA-Right sight correction and took the fourth shot with a cold fouled barrel. Looks like I�ll have no problem getting 1MOA with factory ammo, she barely shot over 1MOA when adding the sight correction. When the temps cool, I�m going to sight her in at 200yards and see how tight I can shoot a 5-shot group.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gary2va/3760276512/

Later

Gary I'm guessing your in VA, I shot early yesterday morning and the temp in the southwest mountains was 56.

I have learned much here easier way to float the barrel and ways to bed under a fluted barrel. thanks for the tips

Gary,

I appreciate your effort in putting this together. Impeccable details. Thanks for the pictures and detailed blow by blow.

CLB

GaryVA,

Have been following the amazing job you have done with this gun.

Just wondering if you have more results from your 338RCM project yet?

regards
John

Wish I was having as much luck/success bedding my 338RCM Hawkeye in a B&C stock ! For being a stock that is supposed to be close to drop-in, the B&C is nowhere close, and I mean nowhere! Calling B&C after the holiday to see what's up.

i just ran accross this thread this morning and what a informative and well done piece. thank you for sharing.

Great stuff. Thanks for taking the time to write it up and include pictures. Quick question, did you make the pillars or purchase them? I have a Ruger Hawkeye in 338 Fed and may consider adding pillars.

I just had to bring this thread back because I just got a 338 RCM and really like it but I need it bedded up like this one (I cracked the original stock).

Gary have any updates on the rifle? Is the stock proving to be bomb-proof after your re-work? What about shooting more results?

Just now seeing this thread, remarkable work!

Great stuff Gary...Thanks!

+1 Fantastic detail. Why is this thread not pinned?

You did a fine job finishing up your rifle.

I have been shooting a 338 RCM since early 2010. I have a few details to share.

The end of the chamber is on the short side. I purchased a Pacific tool and gauge reamer which shares the exact dimensions with the one Hornady uses. I talked with Lonnie at Hornady to verify. The end of chamber is 2.025". I can't say what your chamber length is, just be aware.

I had my Tang safety M77 mag box lengthened so OAL of loaded round is 2.975". Other details: 22" barrel. Fed 210 match primers.


Started with Varget and H4350 and the 215 sierra to get an idea of its performance.
Remember my OAL is not the same as yours.

Varget: very accurate load with 53.5 gr for vel of 2700 fps

H4350: 61 grs 2700, 62 grs 2755, 63 grs 2800 with nothing very accurate


At this point I tried RL-17 54.5 grs, very accurate vel 2715

I exhausted the 215 sierras and moved to the 225 accubond


RL-17 and 225 accubond temperature was 80 degrees:
worked up to 61 grs which was very accurate, 2750 fps
This is my finalized load. I have taken one cow elk with it so far.

I ended up with some Nosler pro shop 180 nosler ballistic tips. Decided to try and find a load that would hit same POI at 100.

Worked up to 65 grs of RL-17 with vel of 3080, the load that had the same POI was 62 grs with vel 2965.

I hope this gives you an idea of the cartridge's potential.

--------

For grins I worked up a load for the 300 gr Sierra MK. I seated the bullet past the mag's OAL limitations to place it close to the rifling. There is no data for 300s. Started with 50 grs of RL-17 and worked up to 57 grs!
That 57 gr load was 2450 and when I shot a few rounds at 200 yds they cut into one another!

So....I had this LA heavy rifle needing a new barrel. I went off the deep end..... Barrel is a 1 in 9 twist 6 groove SS barrel long throated for the 338 RCM. 300 Sierra MK is sitting in the case with boattail/bearing surface junction even with shoulder/neck junction of case. It looks like a giant whisper case. Performance from the 29" barrel is stunning.
Finalized load is 57.5 grs of RL-17 vel 2540 with ES's running single digits. Still using the fed 210 primer. I have only fired it once at 200 yds and 3 shots made a .312" group. Once I get to the 500M range and shoot it there with good results I'll post the whole story here with a few pics.

I hope my load data gives you some ideas. Enjoy your 338 RCM Hawkeye!