I work with a gunsmith and watched him do a couple of trigger jobs and he gave me pointers on what to do and how to go about doing trigger jobs on any fire arm. He had never done a M77 re-work just drop in timney triggers. Well today I looked at my dads M77 MKII 308 and decided the 8 pound creeping ass trigger had to go. I ripped it a part and looked at the whole trigger and foud out how everything worked. Decide to cut 1 1/2 coils off the spring polish the the edges of the sear and trigger and on the bolt assembly. Dremil tool, jeweler files and polishing stones do wonders. Now the trigger breaks at a clean crisp 2 5/8 pounds.

A trigger job was all my 257 RBTS M77MKII needed to be a very nice rifle. Mine came with a crunchy 5.5 lb. pull and now sports a crisp 3.5 lb pull - huge improvement. I am sure your Dad will love the improvement you have made on his .308 WIN.

Do a video and post it.

What about over-travel? It's been awhile since I worked on one, but if I remember right, that was the one thing that was not easy to address.

Had the same quandry. I picked up a MkII in 6.5x55 that had been shot little if at all but strangely had the trigger worked apparently as described above. Was crisp & light but long overtravel. What I eventually did was rough the front upper part of the trigger above the pivot as much as possible (that's some hard steel), and build up a ball of marine epoxy there. When the lower part of the trigger is pulled this upper part pivots toward the stop. After the epoxy was dry & cured in a warm oven I shaped it into a blunt cone with a file then little by little took material off the top. The cone of epoxy limits the amount of travel. It was just a matter of fitting & filing until I had what I wanted. Was a bit concerned about the longevity of the set up but so far after maybe 100 rds and a couple of years everything has held. Initially tried to build up a spot of solder instead of epoxy but couldn't make it happen. Best option with this method would probably be a spot weld dot but I don't know how that would affect the metal.

I had a trigge job done on my 270 and it turned in into a new rifle. Groups went from 2" to 3/4" overnight.

I had Bansner's in Adamstown, PA do the trigger my M77 MKII about 10 or 12 years ago. Still works great.

I pretty much follow this for M77 triggers. but i don't do much of a bevel on the trigger nose. I don't do much at all with the spring. not a big fan of cutting coils. I don't mind a little weight to a trigger, especially since most of my hunting is done with cold stiff fingers. But I do appreciate what this common fix does to eliminate the creep, she snaps nice & clean with just enough trigger sear engagement to be good & safe.

Overtravel never bothered me. she's headed down the tube before you gotta worry about all that extra travel anyways.

I do a lot of my own triggers, and those of my kids' rifles.
I don't believe in cutting coils off springs. I do use a different spring, with about 20% thinner wire, the same length and coil outside diameter to get a very good pull. I also polish mating, moving parts to reduce friction.

This is a good thread. "Thank you" to northern dave and DMB in particular.

Link to Ruger M77 Trigger article, which has a link to that diagram in it.

The trigger housing can be d/t'd for an overtravel screw. As noted, the metal is harder-n-ell, so you best use a very good drill and tap.

I think the mkII trigger is one of the best hunting triggers as designed, but not as manufactured by Ruger.

yessir, that's a good article.

Sure is. Just remember, as 458 Lott noted, the metal is way hard. You won't drill a hole for the overtravel screw in that trigger with a handheld Black&Decker and a carbide bit. Done tried it. That's the reason I ended up with the blob of epoxy trick

There is polishing on the BOLT face engagement that need to be done on the bolt itself. Changing the angle by 3 degrees makes a big difference. I also have ZERO overtravel. But whatever! I was just sharing my exp. with yall!

What did you do to cure the overtravel or was it never there??

it wass there but by cutting the spring down 1 1/2 coils a polinging the bolt engagement to 3 degrees less it took out the overtravel.