...I haven't been on the fire very long but I've already learned painting a stock is discussed on here fairly often. I am having a rifle built and this is my first experience with a High Tech Specialties stock, let me add that Mark Bansner is a first-class gentleman and a pleasure to talk with. I need some advice from you experts on what paint product to use; this rifle will be put through alot (Alaska/BC/Montana and rough winters in the upper midwest). I REALLY like the color of the Kimber Montana stocks (medium gray with a hint of olive) and I'd like that base color with either black and silver webbing or a tri-tone color with the gray being the primary with black and silver highlights. Any advice would be very much appreciated! Thanks -

Hello. I have tried alot of different finishes on fiberglass stocks(mostly MPI), very similar to High Tech. The one I keep going back to is Zolotone. It is incredibly durable, slightly textured and the colors are really cool and easy to blend. For best adhesion, make sure to use the Zolotone primer. I apply it with a gravity feed gun, using a primer nozzle around 65 psi. If you dont have the compressor and gun, Rustoleum textured outdoor furniture paint works well also. Then top with Krylon Lava Black Webbing paint(or white if you are spraying grey). This is a great rattle can solution that is also very durable. Hope this helps!

...thanks for the info longshot3, Brownells "Aluma-Hyde" is another product I wanted to ask about. Have read great things about this product online but haven't talked to anyone who has specifically tried this product.

duracoat is what I have used

I havent tried Aluma hyde yet. I am ordering some to paint my varmint barrel in the next few weeks though. I have heard that it's good on glass as well.

That Duracoat looks great! I need to figure out how to post pix on here!

I've had good results with Krylon flat camo paint. Just my personal taste but I don't like shiny finishes on wood or synthetic stocks. These have an under-layer of olive with khaki over the olive. Whatever you do, get a can of acetone or other stripper because you're bound to want to strip some of your first efforts for a do-over:

I'm a big fan of Aluma-Hyde II.

smokepole, that is extremely sharp...a classy custom camo job. I like it a lot...nice!

I like the Krylon fusion paints, webbing paint, and finish with flat clear coat.

I recommend practicing with the webbing paint to get the effect you want. For me I can do about 2 guns and then the pressure in the can gets a little low and you can get more blotching in the pattern..comes in a small can.

Thanks Dawg, it's also really easy. Tape off the pad and action, hang with a wire coat hanger through the front stud, and spray on the base coat of olive.

Then lay it on some newspaper, put some long-leaf pine needles across it a different angles, and hit it with khaki. Just takes some experimenting on cardboard to get the pine needle density right.

GDawg: Have you considered having Bansner paint the stock for you?

They've got a great selection of colors and their paint holds up extremely well.

Very nice! [


quote=smokepole]I've had good results with Krylon flat camo paint. Just my personal taste but I don't like shiny finishes on wood or synthetic stocks. These have an under-layer of olive with khaki over the olive. Whatever you do, get a can of acetone or other stripper because you're bound to want to strip some of your first efforts for a do-over:







[/quote]

Not sure if Bansner will paint a stock other than on ne of his customs. I do know that B&C will for about $85 (last time I had one done.)

One thing I find about using a rattle can to paint stocks is I do not have a bunch invested and they look just as good as some very expensive products. If I scratch the stock or if I want something different, it is a very simple task to pull out the Krylon or Rustoleum.

I put down a darker base coat of something like a gray and then use a ragged sponge to lay on various darker colors, usually three or four. It looks pretty ugly at this point, but I then spray very light coats of tan or green to mute the colors below. The affect is pretty cool. If you don�t like it you can start over. When I am finished with the colors I spray a flat clear to seal it and make all the colors reflect light the same.

VarmintLooney,

Nice effect

Here's a couple more you need to consider, Polane T and Cerakote two of the best and most durable gun finishes, I would contact Eddie Fosnaugh if you need a stock painted!

http://www.fosnaughcustoms.com

...you have to buy Polane-T by the gallon...and cerakote is an extremely thin product and shows a lot of details if stock is not perfectly prepped...very unforgiving. I am pretty sure Duracoat is basically Polane-T or a very similar product -

Duracoat has worked very well for me when applied through a gravity feed spray gun. I usually finish it with a matte clear coat. I've got one I need to do now. A few old ones....

...JCMCUBIC - I notice on the camo tactical rifle stock that's rested on the post, you have additional texture on the pistol grip and forend...how are you doing that? Nice work btw -

Thanks, but the texture there is straight from McMillan. It was a black A5. I just "GAP"ed it.

Georgiadawg:

Aluma Hyde II is a great product; works great on stainless barrels, very tough (epoxy based) so will work on stocks, I am sure. At $12.00 per can, and 10-12 colors, and 1 can will do 2-3 rifles, it can't be beat. And, the color chart is spot on for the color you get.

Use brake cleaner to degrease the steel parts, I guess a light sanding with alcohol wipe down will prep a stock.

It's a great product.

Very cool, any tips on technique? What paint are you using?

I just love that one. Might have to shamelessly copy it.

G-Dawg, I have done some textures like that before as well. The way I did it was to take a small, ball shaped Dremel cutter, then lightly "dimple" the area(kinda like a golf ball)that you want. Tape off the outside lines as you would for checkering, and work from the outside to the inside going around the pattern until you get to the center. Just be careful on the spacing and dont go too deep. I practiced on a tupperware stock to get the feel. My customer was a happy camper!

Smokepole... I use both Krylon camo colors and Rustoleum paint. The base coat is not so important as far as colors go. I spray a color into a spray can cap or paper bowl and then dab a piece of sea sponge in the paint. I randomly place colors around and overlap the colors below. When that dries I spray light coats of a pale camo color (in this case - green) keeping the spray can two to three feet away from the stock when spraying. After that dries I hit the entire stock with a flat clear coat. You can alway do it again if you don't like the results.

How oil and solvent resistant is the Krylon & Rustoleum.

I routinely spill Hoppe's on the Krylon and it's none the worse for it. I don't use an overcoat, and the Krylon will get a burnished look from wear under the forearm and at the pistol grip.

Thanks 'Looney.

+1 for Duracoat. I have had great success using on stocks and barreled actions.

As an aside, can someone tell me where to buy Krylon webbing paint?

Thanks,

Lou

http://www.joann.com/

Go to crafts then decorative painting.

Thanks!!!

Michaels also has webbing paint. I just got another can today.

I just painted my Montana. Not really against the blue/grey as it comes, but not really a fan either. Here it is now. I used the Krylon camo paint and some black webbing.

Another vote for Duracoat.

yep duracoat for stocks and cerakote for Metal

if you use the krylon web spray then cover the whole stock in the duracoat semi gloss clear. makes it very tough.

[img:center][/img]

Krylon.........

W

Woofer,
that is one bad mutha!!! i really dig that one!

That's a badazz looking green thang!

Mostly Krylon on this one.

Did it for buds 10 year old little girl. ADL 243 with a leupy shorty.. Thing shoots lights out. You should have seen her face...

W

What is the base coat? And where do I find it?

For me its either cerakote or krylon. If I am going to take the time to do a full prep with a sanding a stock, detailed degreasing or abrasive blasting I will go with cerakote, I just have not had real good luck with the durability of duracoat. If I just want to throw some color on a beater gun its gonna be krylon.

Cerakote base with sponge job krylon



Cerakote metal work with krylon stock.


All duracoat and its looking pretty ragged now, no better on wear and tear than krylon and a lot bigger pain in the butt with the mixing.

varminstinc, I'm thinking about doing a Montana stock, and I dig that sponge one. I'm thinking black with light grey sponging? Or maybe white sponging.

Rustoleum textured and a clear coat has worked for me.

Sponging is super easy. Put on a base coat and then do about 30% of the stock in a second color. Take the first color and sponge over the second color then take the second color and go over the first, dont even bother to let any of the coats dry. Add a couple accents and your done.

I have done a lot of stencil work and some tough patterns (like fricken digital) and the sponge job takes about 5 minutes from start to finish and looks better than all of them.

What do you think about doing a solid matte base, with light grey or white splotches? Maybe even both grey and white. I wouldn't need to sponge black in there at all after that?

funny you say "her" soon as i saw that stock i thought my daughter would love it.....she loves bright green...

If you do a black matte base you can just blot the light grey over it but it really pulls it together if you do some bigger splotches of grey and then sponge black over that.

Take a look at manners website for their new molded paints, they basicly use a solid color and sponge over them with one or two more colors but do not blend them, looks like they use a paint roller as their sponge.

They even have one in black with a dark grey and light grey.
http://mannersstocks.com/color-and-finishes/

To resurrect an old thread, I have considered doing this for a couple of years, and finally gave it a shot with a plain jane Savage 111 in .243.



Using a base of Krylon Fusion and a Rustoleum Stone texture then multiple coats of clear matte, it was transformed into this in just under 1.5 hours with drying time then an overnight curing. Pretty happy with the finished product for the time and money I've got in it.





Fun project and I'm considering doing something with a T/C Venture in .300 WM that is as ugly as any gun I've ever seen but shoots as well as any gun I've ever owned.

That looks great.

I am going to do a Rem 700 ADL that shoots great but is plain UGLY. I like the sand speckle. I wonder how it will wear?

May not wear worth a darn, but five minutes of paint should take care of that.

Lord knows its a cheap and easy way to get something that looks better than factory.